There are no Line-Level output signals available from the factory system. You would need a "MOST" adapter to convert the optical audio signals to a line level output.

I added a sub and amp to my existing Bose system. Easy install, as all the wiring is in the back. Tapped the driver door woofer signal at the Bose Amp (located in the rear left side), mounted the amp next to the spare tire, and added an 80 Amp fused wire to the battery terminal. The amp turn-on signal (ignition switched +12V) was connected to rear fusebox fuse #D4.

The sub box sits in the rear cargo area, with quick-disconnects in case I need to remove it for more cargo room.
Adds that clean low-end sound that is missing.

JL Audio CS110TG-TW3 Sealed PowerWedge™ enclosure with one 10" TW3 subwoofer at Crutchfield

JL Audio JD250/1 JD Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 250 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield

 

Are there are full range speaker outputs from the Bose amp if I want to add an amplifier for speakers as well?

 

I have an S model, but it appears to have base audio -- no Bose or Harmon-Kardon markings anywhere. Checked out the amp in the left rear, but it doesn't appear to have any optical connection. Any idea what wires would be speakers, so I can tap off to add a powered sub? (Not interested in high-end audio, just filling the bass end as the car has no sub at all).

 

You can just use an aftermarket amp that has high level inputs to replace the factory amp. If you send a picture of the amp or the model number that might be helpful for people to understand what you are talking about.

 

Far as I know I don't need to replace a factory amp, I need to ADD a separate amp for a subwoofer that doesn't already exist. (I'm assuming that if the woofer doesn't exist, the amp for it doesn't either). Photos of what's there are attached.

 

I added the 12" Cerwin Vega powered spare tire sub. VPAS 12ST. You absolutely don't need any additional wiring or amp. You simply unplug the OEM sub and tap new sub wires into the OEM wires that go into the oem sub and your done. You have a long optional wired remote you can adjust 3 levels of bass and run under the side floor trim up into the center console area. The woofer itself is very thumpy and with deep bass. Itll put some bump in the trunk. If you leave it in the same area as the oem woofer itll fit but the flap will remain open about 1/2" which is probably a good thing to keep air circulating. you can try installing into the spare wheel by flipping it as well.

 

Thanks for the interesting idea -- I hadn't seen a spare-tire sub before. But as I mentioned earlier, I don't HAVE an existing sub, and I haven't found any wiring for it either. My existing stock amp "may" be able to drive a sub, but I have no info on it.

 

You probably just need to grab the signal from the factory amp then run to a powered sub versus an amp and seperate sub. Ill look up the colored wires when i get home and perhaps you can trace to your factory amp. I think the wire colors were green and purple to the factory sub but ill double check.

 

In the Base Sound System (not Bose, not Burmester), the factory amplifier cannot drive an added subwoofer. You need to add an aftermarket powered sub, or a separate sub and amp, and tap a speaker level output from the factory amp to drive the input of the added amp. The speaker wires are the twisted pairs coming out of that red connnector on the factory amp. You probably want to tap the woofer speaker of the driver door, wire colors (at the amp connector) are: Plus = White with red stripe. Minus = White with Brown stripe.

 

In the Base Sound System (not Bose, not Burmester), the factory amplifier cannot drive an added subwoofer. You need to add an aftermarket powered sub, or a separate sub and amp, and tap a speaker level output from the factory amp to drive the input of the added amp. The speaker wires are the twisted pairs coming out of that red connnector on the factory amp. You probably want to tap the larger speaker of the driver door, but I don't know which wire pair that is on the Base system.

So you can get the remote signal from the factory amp speaker wire outputs to tap into a powered woofer.

 

The remote ON/OFF power signal for the added amp:

 

We're gettin' there -- thanks VAGfan and rguzman224.

 

In Post #10, above, I added the wire colors (at the amp) you need to tap into, to feed the input of an added subwoofer amplifier

 

Got it. Is there a diagram or wire list for the entire amp?

 

You can literally just unplug your factory sub amp, not the bigger amp behind the panel, then you can tap into the wires that were plugging into the factory sub amplifier. The sub amp is smaller and mounted to the sub enclosure. All the wires you need are there. Low level signal wires and your remote/turn on wire. I’ve had mine hooked up that way for 5 years. Zero issues. Very easy.

 

Only the older Macans had the separate sub amp mounted to the subwoofer box. After 2016 (?) they don't have that.

 

I didn’t know that. That definitely makes a difference. 👍

 

I can add some photos tomorrow if you would like. I just don’t know how to add photos on here.

 

Also there is no cutting of any wires at all. I can have this whole setup back to factory in less than 10 minutes.

 

Thanks for the assist, ETHER_6, but as I've stated several times above, my car doesn't HAVE a factory sub. Zero, non-existent. No woofer, no wiring I can find, and seemingly no amp.

 

How can a BOSE system come without the sub? I thought it was a part of the system.

 

There are three audio systems:
Base
Bose
Bermester

The Base system does not have a subwoofer box under the rear cargo floor.

 

 

Concerning the connector on the amp, the release lever (pivot type) needs to be rotated about 90 degrees, and the force will increase as the connector body begins to extract from the mating half.

If the release is the slide type (rather than the pivot type), significant force needs to be applied as the connector body extracts from the mating half.

 

Great info, VAGfan -- many thanks! Yes, the release is the slide type; guess that's what a slide hammer is for... LOL