DIY Spark Plugs - Porsche Macan Forum
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post #1 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Default DIY Spark Plugs

Hit 60k miles and finally got time for a spark plug change walk-through.
Before you start, I rate this a 2 out of 5 bloody knuckles. Its easy if you take your time, but a helping hand once in awhile will be beneficial. There are some not-so common tools required and I don't have "official" torque numbers or procedure from Porsche.

Total Time: 1.5 hrs taking it slow

Official torques from WM (2015 Turbo):
- spark plug, new - 25 Nm (tolerance +1.5 Nm), don't use lubricant
- spark plug, re-used - 31.5 Nm (tolerance +1.5 Nm), don't use lubricant
- fastening screw for ignition coil - 10Nm
- fastening screw for coolant reservoir - 5 Nm
- torque support pan-head aluminum screw - 20Nm + 180degrees - new screws must be used

Electrode gap - 0.8mm +/-0.05mm

Proceed at your own risk.
All torque values are estimated (by break-away, bolt size, or Bosch site)
I have personally removed head threads when removing spark plugs.
I have seen friends strip out threads when reinstalling spark plugs.
I have seen people drop screws through open spark plug holes.
The fix requires pulling a cylinder head which is $$$$$$.

Plugs:
Porsche Number: 999.170.233.90
Bosch Number: 0242245585 <---- Use this one to search.
Its an iridium plug with an odd electrode connection.
28 Nm tightening torque
0.700 mm gap (DO NOT STICK A FEELER GAUGE IN THE GAP)

Porsche Macan S Spark Plug

Required Tools:
E10 Female Torx
T-25 Male Torx (Star Drive)
T-45 Male Torx
16mm Shallow, Deep, AND/OR Box end wrench (if you only want it good-n-tight)
5/8" Spark Plug Socket (Its not a normal 5/8" deep well)
Short, Medium, and Long extensions
1 - 25Nm Torque Wrench
5 - 50Nm Torque Wrench

Optional:
Anti-sieze and die-electric grease

Start by opening your hood. If you can't figure that out......stop now.
Remove the top cover of the engine by pulling straight up in the front, then rear.



Starting on the passenger side is easier and has more clearance. So you can get some practice in before tackling the driver rear cylinder.
Remove the engine air filter by loosening the 4 screws visible from the top. They are captured by the cover so don't get fully removed.
The cover pulls straight up for removal.
The side wall of the air box closest to the engine can the slide vertical. You will need to pull and shimmy a bit to removed it.
Once the side wall is removed, you can pull the filter towards the engine, then up.



Next remove the two torx head fasteners that hold the wiring loom. No need to try and pry the wire loom open to unclip the coils.
With the wire harness fasteners removed, you can remove the coil connectors.
Push on the ribbed portion of the retention clip (center of connector towards the wires), while pulling the connector off the coil.
Resist pulling on the wires only, the connectors will come off with moderate force. Do NOT pry them off. You can do it with only your fingers.



Next remove the anti-rotation link bolt that is attached to the valve cover. Notice the light torque on the nut.
Loosen the bolt on the other end of the link and swing it up and out of the way.


Now you're free to remove the coils and replace the spark plugs. I do it cylinder by cylinder so that I don't mix coils (it doesn't matter).
Loosen the torx head bolt for the font cylinder coil. It is captured in the coil and can not be fully removed.
Pulling straight out (same angle as the head), pull the coil out of the spark plug hole.
Use a medium extension and spark plug socket remove the spark plug.
You should feel a soft torque break when first starting to loosen, then roughly 5nm resistance to finish threading out the plug.
With the plug out, verify you got the correct replacement plugs.
Verify the crush washer came out with the old plug.



Reinstalling the Spark Plug
Torque per Bosch website: 28Nm
I used VERY light amount of anti-seize on the first couple of threads. Remember that anti-seize will modify your required plug torque.
I also added a bit of die-electric grease to the top of the plug for water intrusion protection. Some of the plugs already had it in the box.
Start the plug BY HAND and thread it until seated BY HAND.
If there is any question you cross threaded the plug, remove it 2 turns, then count 2 turns back in.
Torquing the plug up, you should feel a linear torque rise (crushing the washer and seating the plug) and then a rapid torque rise.
Once you hit the rapid torque rise, the plug will not turn more than 5 degrees before hitting the torque value.

Reinstall the coil pack and bolt.
Push in the center of the coil until it is fully seated on the spark plug.
Torque: <5nm

Continue on to complete the other cylinders on the passenger bank.
Reinstall the coil connectors by simply pushing the connector on until it clicks.
Wire loom bolt torque: <5nm

Reinstall the anti-rotation link to the engine.
Engine side bolt torque 15Nm
Frame side bolt torque 30 Nm


Reinstall the air filter, verify nothing got in on the clean side of the filter.
This is a good time to replace the air filters, although one of my new ones has some plastic flash in it.
Reinstall the air box wall by sliding it straight down.


Drives Side
This side is a bit more tricky due to the coolant reservoir.
Remove the coolant purge valve from the air box side by sliding it forward and up. (No need to remove the screw)
Remove the drivers side filter and air box side, just like the passenger side.
Remove the two screws holding the coolant reservoir to the mounts. Note how the bottom has a tab and slot to guide it in place.



Having a helper here will be beneficial to hold the coolant reservoir out of the way.
There are more hoses/wires on this side to contend with. Take your time.
Remove the two torx bolts that hold the wiring loom for the coils, then remove the coil connectors.


Just like the passenger side, work your way from the front to the back changing the plugs.
When you get to the rear coil, the wire loom can be pushed towards the top of the engine, to get the coil out underneath.
You can then let the wires lay further down and work above them to remove/reinstall the spark plug.
Reassembly is like the passenger side. Be sure to get all of the coil connectors to "click" when pushing them on.

When done, start your car (hopefully) and check for error codes. If you do get a rough idle and a code, check the coil connectors first to verify they're seated. Then remove / reinstall coil packs to verify they're seated. If you still have a rough idle/missing cylinder. You'll need to pull and check your plugs. Its rare, but a bad spark plug out of the box is not unheard of.
@grim , could you sticky this. Thanks

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Last edited by grim; 05-15-2017 at 02:35 PM. Reason: op request
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post #2 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 04:12 PM
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Awesome write-up! Say, if you did not use a feeler gauge to gap the plugs how did you check the correct 0.700mm gap? Are they pre-gapped out of the box? Plus, only two bloody knuckles, I am used to at least 6 knuckle busters and a few sutures when my hands are under the hood of cars! Compared to the Cayman this looks doable!
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post #3 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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Plugs are pre-gapped. You can do a visual check, just to verify they're close. It's pretty obvious if it's way too big or small.

There's quite a bit of room which makes it easier. And not too many sharp corners to catch a knuckle on .
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post #4 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 08:36 PM
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Really nice, thanks!

From my experience, I always add a *small* dab if anti seize, even though many folks say not to. You don't want a seized plug in an alloy head. Also, you hardly need any torque on plugs. Some racers hand tighten only. They won't loosen. I usually do roughly 8-10 ft-lb and never had a problem - even on big cam, rough running motors.
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post #5 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy View Post
Really nice, thanks!

From my experience, I always add a *small* dab if anti seize, even though many folks say not to. You don't want a seized plug in an alloy head. Also, you hardly need any torque on plugs. Some racers hand tighten only. They won't loosen. I usually do roughly 8-10 ft-lb and never had a problem - even on big cam, rough running motors.
Pops used to say "just snug'm up."
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post #6 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 08:41 PM
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Yeah, I thought about changing the spark plugs myself but I couldn't find them in the glove box so I gave up.

What ?


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post #7 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHT TGR View Post
Yeah, I thought about changing the spark plugs myself but I couldn't find them in the glove box so I gave up.

What ?


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Glove box? Put your gloves on and open the box
@TripleZ , awesome write-up! This thread should be sticky, @grim
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post #8 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windblow View Post
Glove box? Put your gloves on and open the box
@TripleZ , awesome write-up! This thread should be sticky, @grim

Ah yes the gloves . That's it

Agree, this is a great write up.


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post #9 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-19-2016, 02:18 AM
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Great summary and does not look too difficult. I think I am going to take my Turbo into my local shop where my mechanic and I can follow these instructions which will allow me to do the first set with some pro help. I figure 2 hours labor or about $150.00 bucks plus the plug set from Suncoast at $111.00.

About 50% of the dealer cost as I was quoted $550.00 today at the service department.


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post #10 of 79 (permalink) Old 10-25-2016, 03:40 PM
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@TripleZ , getting ready to order plugs for my 2015 Macan Turbo. Suncoast says these are correct but they don't seem to match the part numbers you posted.

https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...917023390.html

Thanks

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