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If they charge more than 100 bucks - I'd like to know what they do with all that time. If you're slow, it's a 30 minute job. If a dealer charges more than 200, he'll rip you off.

I'm not speaking about re-alignment, just the height re-calibration.
The first time my dealer did it as a courtesy no charge.

I decided I wanted it even lower, and they charged me two hours labor.

Then I decided it was too low for pothole season, and they charged me two hours more for labor.

Finally got smart, and purchased the Cete module, where I can adjust the height on my smartphone app. Love the ability to adjust the height instantly based on road conditions.
 

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I have a shop who will lower Macan Turbo via PIWIS, however was told that they recommend trimming bump stops in the rear. Has anyone experienced this ??
 

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Probably depends on how much you were planning to lower it. I have one of the lowering modules, and when I have it lowered as much is 40 mm pretty sure it’s still not hitting the stops.

I would strongly recommend rather than PIWIS consider one of the modules so you are not locked into one height. The module I have (Cete) changes the height from a smart phone app whenever I want due to driving and or road conditions, or merely just my mood.
 

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I am trying to find the screen in PIWIS III for the air suspension calibration to lower my car. I can't seems to find it, I have to use engineering mode right? Then where to go? PASM, maintenance or coding? Please provide a picture if possible. Thanks a lot.
 

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I am trying to find the screen in PIWIS III for the air suspension calibration to lower my car. I can't seems to find it, I have to use engineering mode right? Then where to go? PASM, maintenance or coding? Please provide a picture if possible. Thanks a lot.
I PM’d you. You don’t have to go to engineering mode.


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Mine is a PIWIS II, but you should be able to find it in the same menu...

Level/PASM



Maintenance Repairs, select Height System Calibration




Important to note that the car must be with ignition in the ON position, but not started. And the battery should have sufficient charge, otherwise the system would not let you go any forward. To accomplish this, you need a battery charger, otherwise you’ll have problems.

My battery charger for reference:

235515



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That does not matter at all when calibrating your height.

if you enter your actual values, the car will adjust to stock height automatically.
if you enter some mm more, the car will adjust to exactly this difference lower.

very easy process..
 

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That does not matter at all when calibrating your height.

if you enter your actual values, the car will adjust to stock height automatically.
if you enter some mm more, the car will adjust to exactly this difference lower.

very easy process..
I know, but wanted to adjust my turbo to gts height which is 10mm lower.

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I know, but wanted to adjust my turbo to gts height which is 10mm lower.

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If you enter stock values, you will end up screwing things up... significantly. You don’t need that information.

The way you start the calibration process is:

STEP 1: Calibrate to Reset to Factory... Measure the distance between the wheel center and the fender edge for all wheels and enter each value in the respective field in PIWIS screen. The car will automatically go to stock height. Don’t assume it already is.

STEP 2: Calibrate to Lower Car.... Then, you repeat the process, measure, this time add the height you want to drop to each actual measurement you are taking, and then the car will adjust (lower) to whatever number you added.

Now, if you want to know how much lower a GTS is relative to a Turbo so that you can add that difference while calibrating using the procedure above, that’s then a fair question. The Macan GTS with A/S sits 10mm lower than the Macan S/Turbo with A/S...


I went with 20mm myself, and I think that’s the sweet spot in my opinion.

Note: I can’t stress enough the importance of the first step above. If you start with STEP 2, you may end up with slight differences in the height of your different wheels. If you add the values you want to lower your car to whatever numbers are showing in the screen without measuring, your car will behave in very strange ways. It could drop all the way to the floor. Bringing the car back up from the floor is very difficult and will take several iterations of calibration. Talking with experience here... all that happened to me, hence why I follow the above procedure religiously. You will have no problems if you follow the steps above.

Important Note: Say, you lowered initially 10mm and didn’t like it. Do not go to step 2 from there, you will screw things up. Go to step 1. Reset to factory, then step 2, add another quantity. ALWAYS RESET TO FACTORY before calibrating for a different height.



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If you enter stock values, you will end up screwing things up... significantly. You don’t need that information.

The way you start the calibration process is:

STEP 1: Calibrate to Reset to Factory... Measure the distance between the wheel center and the fender edge for all wheels and enter each value in the respective field in PIWIS screen. The car will automatically go to stock height. Don’t assume it already is.

STEP 2: Calibrate to Lower Car.... Then, you repeat the process, measure, this time add the height you want to drop to each actual measurement you are taking, and then the car will adjust (lower) to whatever number you added.

Now, if you want to know how much lower a GTS is relative to a Turbo so that you can add that difference while calibrating using the procedure above, that’s then a fair question. The Macan GTS with A/S sits 10mm lower than the Macan S/Turbo with A/S...


I went with 20mm myself, and I think that’s the sweet spot in my opinion.

Note: I can’t stress enough the importance of the first step above. If you start with STEP 2, you may end up with slight differences in the height of your different wheels. If you add the values you want to lower your car to whatever numbers are showing in the screen without measuring, your car will behave in very strange ways. It could drop all the way to the floor. Bringing the car back up from the floor is very difficult and will take several iterations of calibration. Talking with experience here... all that happened to me, hence why I follow the above procedure religiously. You will have no problems if you follow the steps above.

Important Note: Say, you lowered initially 10mm and didn’t like it. Do not go to step 2 from there, you will screw things up. Go to step 1. Reset to factory, then step 2, add another quantity. ALWAYS RESET TO FACTORY before calibrating for a different height.



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Very good advice! I had an indy shop to drop my AS a little and they made it drop all the way to the floor and could not bring it back up. I went back to the dealership and they spent two hours to bring it back up.

If I had this information back then, It could save me $600 from the dealership!
 

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Santirx description is exactly the way to do it. Calibrate to stock whatever you plan to drop, then drop it it a second step.

we dropped my S and a GTS next to each other by 32mm. Of course the GTS now is still 10mm lower than mine. Below 20mm you start to feel a stiffening suspension, my recommendation for a GTS is definitely not more than an extra -20mm. But my buddy wanted it extra deep, so ... at least in Germany with mint roads you might do even -32mm to a GTS.
 

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So it I wanna lower my car via piwis, I reset suspension module to factory. And then I I put the same mm value in for all 4 struts?

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So it I wanna lower my car via piwis, I reset suspension module to factory. And then I I put the same mm value in for all 4 struts?

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The way to reset to factory is to actually go with a measuring tape, measure each wheel from center of wheel to fender edge and enter that value in the respective field in PIWIS. They may be different values.

That is the STEP 1.

Then do the same for STEP 2. In this case, as I said, measure (say in wheel 1 you measured 463mm, and want to drop by 20mm, then you input 483mm in that wheel... you measure 450mm in second wheel, you’d input is 470mm for that one, and so on...). Again, they all most likely be slightly different values. But you always measure with a measuring tape. Never put the same value in these fields unless you measure and they are actually the same. You always put the values you measure.

One important aspect I forgot to mention above, make sure your level is at NORMAL, when executing the calibration.
 

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The way to reset to factory is to actually go with a measuring tape, measure each wheel from center of wheel to fender edge and enter that value in the respective field in PIWIS. They may be different values.

That is the STEP 1.

Then do the same for STEP 2. Again, they all most likely be slightly different values. But you always measure with a measuring tape. Never put the same value in these fields unless you measure and they are actually the same. You always put the values you measure.

One important aspect I forgot to mention above, make sure your level is at NORMAL, when executing the calibration.
Maybe I am being silly but I'm still confused!

1. Measure values from centre of wheel to edge of fender (will these values not already be present somewhere?
2. Input stock values mm
3. Input new values mm (is this stock plus say 20mm for each side?)

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Maybe I am being silly but I'm still confused!

1. Measure values from centre of wheel to edge of fender (will these values not already be present somewhere?
2. Input stock values mm
3. Input new values mm (is this stock plus say 20mm for each side?)

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1. No
2. There are no stock values. You enter what you measure, then the system will know where it currently sits and go back to stock height on its own. These values are already stored in the car’s onboard computer. You just tell the computer via PIWIS “this is where the car is actually sitting”. The onboard computer in the car will compare its values to the values you provide (from actual measurement) and recalibrate itself.

Example:

a. Measure wheel 1 from wheel center to fender edge... value measured 475mm... enter that value in respective field in PIWIS...
b. Measure wheel 2 the same way.... value measured 467mm... enter that value in the respective field...

Etc.. you get the point here... that will take the car to stock height. Again, no need to know what the actual stock height is from a manual... you most likely screw things up if you try to do that, because the onboard computer is then going to use a set of fixed values to recalibrate, when your actual conditions may be totally different.


3. Step 2... Example... say you want to lower by 20mm, then you need to measure again:

a. Measure wheel 1 from center of wheel to fender edge... say you get this time 468mm... this time, add the 20mm to the value you measured... this will be 488mm. Then input 488mm into the respective wheel 1 field in PIWIS.
b. Measure wheel 2 the same way... say you get 467mm, you add 20mm, you enter 487mm into that wheel 2 specific field in PIWIS...

Do this for all wheels.

What you are doing by adding the 20mm to each measurement is telling the onboard computer that your car is actually sitting 20mm higher that it supposed to be. The onboard computer will take these values and adjust the car, and the result is 20mm lower.
 
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