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I did see there was a batch of the gen 2 V1s that have issues (shut off and light bleed). I have not seen any indications of this on my unit so far, but it's something I will keep an eye out for for.

VortexRadar is great!
 

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I defected to Uniden R7 couple weeks ago and 997.2 gets the old Valentine 1. It was on sale at Bestbuy for $425 so I couldn’t resist. I couldn’t really test it out due to being home bound during pandemic

John



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Our V1 has been mounted since the day of delivery, but the cord is a pain to deal with, especially since there is no 12V power outlet under the dashboard as there is typically in German cars. After being repeatedly surprised by our speed while driving the Macan on the highway, it's definitely clear that we need to run a detector at all times.

Items needed:

  • V1 (or other radar detector of choice)
  • Hardwire kit
  • Power line (telephone cord in the case of V1)
  • Fuse appropriate for your detector
  • HHA Add a circuit fuse block tap, standard size (there's a smaller size available as well; use the larger of the two)
  • Zip-tie (optional)
  • Automotive trim removal tool -or- flathead screwdriver and electrial tape
  • 13mm wrench to loosen ground nut
The Macan has a fuse box located on both the driver and passenger side of the vehicle, situated at the end of the dashboard behind a plastic panel. Access the panel using your trim tool or flathead screwdriver:



The image above is from the driver's side panel but I ultimately went with the passenger side for the install, as our detector is currently mounted on the passenger side of the rearview mirror. The removal process for the panel is the same regardless of the side used to tap power.

Next I wanted to be sure I could run my power line down the A pillar trim piece. I tugged at it a bit to see if it would come out easily, but no success. Not wanting to break clips on this trim piece, I decided to simply pull the trim piece back and wriggle the line behind this piece a small section at a time.

Pulling the top of the trim back from the top:



Getting the line started:



From here I just pulled the trim piece away gently and pressed the line back behind the trim piece, going all the way down to the point where the bottom of the A pillar trim meets a plastic panel down by the fuse box.

I was able to pull the plastic panel out, but ended up breaking one of the clips in doing so. However, as you can see, this ends up giving perfect access from the A pillar trim to the fuse panel:



Up next I went to the workbench and assembled the V1 power tap to the Add a Circuit by crimping the butt connector so that both red wires are joined.



With the power block all set, I then connected the black wire to ground and started the hunt for switched power. Surprisingly, almost all of the fuse locations are hot even with the vehicle turned completely off. Going through trial and error, I was able to finally locate the fuse position marked by the arrow below as being switched:



Putting the final configuration into place:



Also note at the top right of the above picture the ground screw that I used. It takes a 13mm and is very easy for access. I did have to spread the terminal on my V1 tap to get it on securely, but otherwise was simple and seems to give solid ground.

While I was testing for power, I only had the fuse for the V1 installed. Because I had left the 5A fuse off the adaptor, I ended up getting some PASM errors in the MFD when I turned the key. Fortunately when I put the 5A fuse into the adaptor and reinstalled, the errors went away. No need for dealer to clear any codes. :) I will end up going back and putting a 5A fuse in for the V1 branch once I get one from the parts store.

I used a zip-tie to gather up and secure all the slack wires, and then pressed the wires and the power block into a nice little void for the final installation.



Back inside the car, I pulled the power line so that it would exit the A pillar trim right up next to the point where the headliner meets the windshield.



As this point there is a small gap between the head liner and the glass that will accept the power line. I tucked the line into the gap and ran the cord across to where my mount is, and dropped the line down to the detector.



It's definitely not finished as I want it, but I'm waiting on a Blendmount to replace the suction mount in use now. Once that's done, I'll dress up the final few inches of the line.

I have yet to confirm whether the fuse I selected is switched off when the auto stop/start feature kicks in. We don't really care for auto stop anyway so if this outlet is killed when the engine is killed, that's just another reason to turn that feature off.


Great write up, however you are at the wrong fuse box. You need the one at the Drivers side (USA) where you can tap the switched power for the Home Link system (Number three fuse in the "A" panel.
fusetap.jpg
 

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The passenger side 5 amp fuse the OP used and the 5 amp adjacent to it are both switched off when the ignition is off. Either can be used for your detector.

Did you solder the positive wire to the fuse itself? Never seen that done before.
 

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If you want to update your V1 it will be delayed by the COVID-19. They said try late May. The cost will be $389.00 plus your old unit.
IMHO, it's easier to just buy a new gen 2 then throw your old one on eBay for $200 or so.
 

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The passenger side 5 amp fuse the OP used and the 5 amp adjacent to it are both switched off when the ignition is off. Either can be used for your detector.

Did you solder the positive wire to the fuse itself? Never seen that done before.
Yes. It’s a temporary solution until I can wire it to its own fuse.
 

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He had one of the first V1 version 2 made. Unfortunately, it failed on him and many others. That obviously can happen in the manufacturing process for any product. He's reviewed it and really likes it. He uses an app on his iPhone which connects to it as it now has Bluetooth built in. I believe that gives it GPS capability.
Unfortunately, it seems I also got one of the early gen 2s, as mine failed a few days ago.

Trying out something different for a bit while I await a replacement...
231759
 

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I decided to wait a few months before getting the G-2 Valentine. The reviews have been good, but as you noted there have been teething problems. I probably wont get one until early next year.
 

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I've been using the R7 for a few days, and overall it seems to work fine. The display is clear and easy to read, it's not overly chirpy, and the the GPS speedometer is kind of cool.

One thing I don't like is the dual suction cup mount isn't very good as it doesn't hold the detector securely. As a result, the thing is constantly bouncing around while driving. It includes a much larger single suction cup mount which may be better, but that won't work when mounting it up high like I have it. The mount on the V1 (both gen 1 and gen 2) is rock solid, and the detector never moves.

I'll probably go back to the V1 gen 2 as soon as my new one arrives.
 

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A few more days in with the R7, and I'm really starting to like it more and more.

The addition of GPS adds some great options like muting of alerts at low speeds...so you don't have annoying K band beeps when cruising through a shopping center parking lot. I also found a better mount on eBay which people have said provides much better stability. NEW Uniden Windshield Mount Bracket+6 Suction Cups For The R7 Radar Detector | eBay It comes with either clear or black suction cups, but I asked if they could send 3 of each and they said no problem.

I think I'm going to sell my new V1 gen when it arrives and just roll with the R7 for awhile. Big thanks to @MDJAK for the recommendation.
 
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