Porsche Macan Forum banner

121 - 140 of 153 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
For the V1 to stop turning off and on, they offer a cheap solution called a brown out booster on their website. Or just turn off the start-stop feature.

As for hardwiring, running an add-a-fuse to the fuse panel on the driver side is so much cleaner/safer than pulling down the overhead to do tap into something up there. Add-a-fuse is 100% reversible too. It's so easy to tuck the cord up the windshield headliner and down the a-pillar between the weather strip. I actually use the SAVVY though which plugs into the OBD port. Everything cleanly connected in about 15 minutes.
Can you explain this better – "I actually use the SAVVY though which plugs into the OBD port?" SAVVY? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I just bought one and or updated my old one. The manual specifically addresses this issue and indicates that it is now supposed to weed out the lane change assist on cars.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
772 Posts
I just bought one and or updated my old one. The manual specifically addresses this issue and indicates that it is now supposed to weed out the lane change assist on cars.
True. I updated 2 older ones to the newest model and they are a lot quieter than another old V1 I have. I guess it is time to update my last old V1.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Thanks! Very helpful info.

This info thread was a HUGE help!! Thanks "whoosh"! :x
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,212 Posts
I love being able to update the V1 versus having to get another detector as with other brands. I consider my V1 as my co-pilot because it always has my back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
The method in the original post is no longer valid, at least for my 2016. The V1 now has an inline fuse which does not play well with the 5 & 15 amp fuses used in the location shown in the OP, causing faults with the headlights, skid control, and power steering. The V1 is not powered with either of the inline or 15 amp fuse removed, so I'll try smaller fuses in the adapter and report back.


Unless anyone knows what's needed?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
772 Posts
The method in the original post is no longer valid, at least for my 2016. The V1 now has an inline fuse which does not play well with the 5 & 15 amp fuses used in the location shown in the OP, causing faults with the headlights, skid control, and power steering. The V1 is not powered with either of the inline or 15 amp fuse removed, so I'll try smaller fuses in the adapter and report back.


Unless anyone knows what's needed?


That is strange. I hardwired V1 last October to the left fuse box using the ventilated seats fuse and all is good. My V1 is the most updated version.

John



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
That's strange, yes. I switched the positions of the fuses so that the 15 amp is inboard and, as a temporary fix, it works until I can consult with someone more knowledgeable in the subject. I really don't feel like rerunning the cable to the driver's side box.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
772 Posts
That's strange, yes. I switched the positions of the fuses so that the 15 amp is inboard and, as a temporary fix, it works until I can consult with someone more knowledgeable in the subject. I really don't feel like rerunning the cable to the driver's side box.


Come on it will be a small fun project for Sunday afternoon

John


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
That is strange. I hardwired V1 last October to the left fuse box using the ventilated seats fuse and all is good. My V1 is the most updated version.

John



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Any reason you went for Row A-3 (occupied) vs the empty Row A-9?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
772 Posts
I don’t remember why I used A3. I think I didn’t get any reading on other empty spots. Sorry I do not recall.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
added my Valentine V1 this morning... hardest part was routing the RJ11 cable in between glass and the headliner and mirror mount plastics. Not easy, and not a perfect job in disguising the cable. I'd say like a 95% job.

Thanks SO MUCH to the OP for finding the right passenger side fuse. It worked perfectly for me. That was a huge time saver for me.
Though first time I forgot to put in the fuse for the existing circuit in the add-a-circuit tap, and so I checked the power up of the car to conduct the obligatory smoke test, and I had multiple faults indicated on the display, but as OP said, once powered down, fuse added, car powered up, all faults are gone and things are good.

Note, if you want a pic I can show you the ground to use, handy-dandy in that area. You just use a spade connector on your black ground wire, and then thread ANOTHER nut to hold the connector onto the ground, onto that bolt sticking out. It's an M8x1.25 if I remember correctly. Lots of room in that passenger side fuse box to stuff excess wire lengths.

Used this mount: Amazon.com: Radar Mount Mirror Mount Bracket + Direct Wire Power Cord for Valentine V1 (3001204): Radar Mount: Car Electronics , which fit perfectly on my Macan mirror... will post pics if anyone is interested.
(note, I've seen exact replicas of this mount on eBay for 1/2 the price... like $20 !)
Used this fuse add-a-circuit tap: Amazon.com: E Support 12V 24V Standard Add A Circuit Fuse Tap Piggy Back Blade Holder Plug Socket Car Pack of 5: Automotive , which fit the fuse size and also allowed the plastic panel to go back on cleanly and without any interference.

I did not use the included cable with the mount, nice as it is, because it's only for power, no data. So it can't be used to communicate with a Bluetooth V1connection, or a SAVVY controller. So I threaded the thicker data/power cable that comes in the Valentine V1 box, the longer cable. It can be made to 95% hide as I indicated above. Nobody will really notice unless they inspect it closely. You'd hate to pay alot for this job that I did, but then again, I did it for free and fun, and nobody will notice the two places the wire is barely exposed.

Next step: add the V1 Connection LE bluetooth adapter. Easy since there is an ACC jack in the included Valentine V1 hardwire wiring connector.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
650 Posts
Just swapped out my V1 for a V1 gen 2.

The gen 2 is very nice, and much less chirpy than the gen 1, and I'm sure it's better at everything else too. The updated layout is also much easier to read.

A worthy upgrade IMHO.

Note: The arrows don't photograph particularly well, but the lights are nice and crisp in person.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,110 Posts
Nice detector, but the fact it lacks gps when so many others have it is a money grab by good ol mike valentine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
650 Posts
You can read up on his thoughts about GPS, but like anything it has pros and cons.

IMHO, the filtering on this is really good. I've only had it installed a few days, but it has been silent except for a few times when an actual threat was near (as is the case in this pic). This was not the case with my last V1 (which was the latest gen 1 HW/SW).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,110 Posts
I have the version 1, though updated, V1. It’s been in a drawer collecting proverbial dust for years. It was beset by so many false alarms it drove me nuts.
I then got the Radenso M1 I believe is the model. Near silent. Best false alarm rejection.
I then bought the Uniden R3 which has great range.
For another vehicle I use their R7. Even better range with very good false rejection.
As to GPS, if it’s not in his detector do you expect him to extol its virtues?
Having it on all 3, I can attest to how good and useful it is.
The Escorts have auto GPS which makes it even easier to use.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
650 Posts
Great. I'm glad you found something you like.

The combo of arrows and long range has always made the V1 my preferred option. I've had 4-5 different versions now, each of them better than the last. The gen 2 is a big step up, and I am very happy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,110 Posts
Oh, no doubt, the arrows, which MV invented and patented were a game changer. Once his patent expired a couple of years ago, others came out with it, including the Uniden R7. I'm so old, in dog years dead, older than dirt in fact, that I've used RDs for many years. I used to have one called a Passport, small and battery operated. Having used RDs for so long, the arrows were no longer a necessity for me. It's very easy to tell if a warning is real. The only time I found arrows to be helpful is when they are tracking you from behind and you have an alarm going on for a long time, especially Ka. But it becomes obvious then also as nothing else could cause a Ka alarm for miles.

Have you ever seen VortexRadar on Youtube? He's basically the source for testing, etc. I think he has at least 5 permanently affixed RDs and Laser Jammers installed on his Audi Q5.

He had one of the first V1 version 2 made. Unfortunately, it failed on him and many others. That obviously can happen in the manufacturing process for any product. He's reviewed it and really likes it. He uses an app on his iPhone which connects to it as it now has Bluetooth built in. I believe that gives it GPS capability.

 
121 - 140 of 153 Posts
Top