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Discussion Starter #1
Our V1 has been mounted since the day of delivery, but the cord is a pain to deal with, especially since there is no 12V power outlet under the dashboard as there is typically in German cars. After being repeatedly surprised by our speed while driving the Macan on the highway, it's definitely clear that we need to run a detector at all times.

Items needed:

  • V1 (or other radar detector of choice)
  • Hardwire kit
  • Power line (telephone cord in the case of V1)
  • Fuse appropriate for your detector
  • HHA Add a circuit fuse block tap, standard size (there's a smaller size available as well; use the larger of the two)
  • Zip-tie (optional)
  • Automotive trim removal tool -or- flathead screwdriver and electrial tape
  • 13mm wrench to loosen ground nut
The Macan has a fuse box located on both the driver and passenger side of the vehicle, situated at the end of the dashboard behind a plastic panel. Access the panel using your trim tool or flathead screwdriver:



The image above is from the driver's side panel but I ultimately went with the passenger side for the install, as our detector is currently mounted on the passenger side of the rearview mirror. The removal process for the panel is the same regardless of the side used to tap power.

Next I wanted to be sure I could run my power line down the A pillar trim piece. I tugged at it a bit to see if it would come out easily, but no success. Not wanting to break clips on this trim piece, I decided to simply pull the trim piece back and wriggle the line behind this piece a small section at a time.

Pulling the top of the trim back from the top:



Getting the line started:



From here I just pulled the trim piece away gently and pressed the line back behind the trim piece, going all the way down to the point where the bottom of the A pillar trim meets a plastic panel down by the fuse box.

I was able to pull the plastic panel out, but ended up breaking one of the clips in doing so. However, as you can see, this ends up giving perfect access from the A pillar trim to the fuse panel:



Up next I went to the workbench and assembled the V1 power tap to the Add a Circuit by crimping the butt connector so that both red wires are joined.



With the power block all set, I then connected the black wire to ground and started the hunt for switched power. Surprisingly, almost all of the fuse locations are hot even with the vehicle turned completely off. Going through trial and error, I was able to finally locate the fuse position marked by the arrow below as being switched:



Putting the final configuration into place:



Also note at the top right of the above picture the ground screw that I used. It takes a 13mm and is very easy for access. I did have to spread the terminal on my V1 tap to get it on securely, but otherwise was simple and seems to give solid ground.

While I was testing for power, I only had the fuse for the V1 installed. Because I had left the 5A fuse off the adaptor, I ended up getting some PASM errors in the MFD when I turned the key. Fortunately when I put the 5A fuse into the adaptor and reinstalled, the errors went away. No need for dealer to clear any codes. :) I will end up going back and putting a 5A fuse in for the V1 branch once I get one from the parts store.

I used a zip-tie to gather up and secure all the slack wires, and then pressed the wires and the power block into a nice little void for the final installation.



Back inside the car, I pulled the power line so that it would exit the A pillar trim right up next to the point where the headliner meets the windshield.



As this point there is a small gap between the head liner and the glass that will accept the power line. I tucked the line into the gap and ran the cord across to where my mount is, and dropped the line down to the detector.



It's definitely not finished as I want it, but I'm waiting on a Blendmount to replace the suction mount in use now. Once that's done, I'll dress up the final few inches of the line.

I have yet to confirm whether the fuse I selected is switched off when the auto stop/start feature kicks in. We don't really care for auto stop anyway so if this outlet is killed when the engine is killed, that's just another reason to turn that feature off.
 

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Nice write-up and pics!!
I usually do my hardwire from the hot wire for the sunroof. Does anyone know what color that wire is. I prefer to know before I start digging into the dome light apparatus to find the sunroof wire. I figure either the sunroof or sunroof shade wire would be good options since they are both switched on/off with the key
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice write-up and pics!!
I usually do my hardwire from the hot wire for the sunroof. Does anyone know what color that wire is. I prefer to know before I start digging into the dome light apparatus to find the sunroof wire. I figure either the sunroof or sunroof shade wire would be good options since they are both switched on/off with the key
I've almost always gone with the switched fuse route in the past but considered doing the mirror / dome light this time. However, in looking at the upper console on the Macan, I really didn't want to mess with pulling those pieces apart and then taking guesses at hot wires up inside there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@whoosh, you should ask a moderator to make this a sticky ;).
Not a sticky of its own but now added to the Electronics section general information index sticky. :)
 

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Don't trust myself to remove the trim pieces, so hoping to find a body shop in the Atlanta area that will do it. Maybe the Porsche dealer knows of one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. THANK YOU!!!!!
Glad to be of help!

After doing some city driving yesterday, I can report that the power to this fuse is interrupted when stop/start does its thing. Doesn't seem like that would be harmful to the detector but something to keep in mind.
 

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After doing some city driving yesterday, I can report that the power to this fuse is interrupted when stop/start does its thing. Doesn't seem like that would be harmful to the detector but something to keep in mind.
That would be irritating.

When I my Macan finally arrives, I'll likely run the power from the driver's side. Hoping to find a switched power source on that side.

I'm planning to run the V-1 Remote Display somewhere close to line of sight. I'll be fabricating a bracket like I have in my car now (or I'll just remove the one I have and move it to the Macan) that uses part of the visor clip bracket to securely mount it directly to the windshield.
 

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This is almost exactly the same as what I did to wire in my V1 in my 911.

But speaking of V1's, does anyone know if there is an update that makes them less susceptible to erroneous alerts whenever near a car with lane change assist/lane keep assist? My Valentine goes crazy whenever I'm behind an Audi Q7 and some other models that I assume have these options that are sending signals behind them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That would be irritating.

When I my Macan finally arrives, I'll likely run the power from the driver's side. Hoping to find a switched power source on that side.
I would confirm you can find switched power as a first step. As I looked for power in my install I was getting concerned that all of the fuses were always hot.

As I typed above I realize that perhaps all of the fuses are switched to a certain extent. When the car goes to sleep, I would expect all of the circuits go dead in order to conserve power. Maybe the fuse selection isn't quite as imperative in that case, although it would be annoying for others that stay in the car if the detector stays on when filling up or in other situations where the car is off but not asleep.

This is almost exactly the same as what I did to wire in my V1 in my 911.

But speaking of V1's, does anyone know if there is an update that makes them less susceptible to erroneous alerts whenever near a car with lane change assist/lane keep assist? My Valentine goes crazy whenever I'm behind an Audi Q7 and some other models that I assume have these options that are sending signals behind them.
I'm going to look in to this by way of using their V1connection app, which supposedly allows for some more advanced programming of the unit than can be had using the knob alone. More info here:

ANDROID-V1connection

If nothing else, the display on the phone / tablet will hopefully give some relief as long as LCA/cruise radar is operating outside of the police radar bands:



My hope is that we are able to program the V1 to ignore signals that are outside the box. I have to send one of my units in for the upgrade to be able to report back. I'll get that done this week.
 

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V1 programming

Whoosh, Let me start you on a dark journey into V1 advanced operation :)

Surf over here: Valentine One - Radar Detector & Laser Jammer Forum
In particular look at the YaV1 (android) and StealthAssist (iPhone) threads.

The YaV1 app has More features and probably has more of a following, but both are nice upgrades to the Stock V1.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Whoosh, Let me start you on a dark journey into V1 advanced operation :)

Surf over here: Valentine One - Radar Detector & Laser Jammer Forum
In particular look at the YaV1 (android) and StealthAssist (iPhone) threads.

The YaV1 app has More features and probably has more of a following, but both are nice upgrades to the Stock V1.
Just when I thought I found the end of the Internet...

 

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My Custom Mount

Thought I’d post this.

Here’s the V-1 mount I made for my car. I’ll move it to the Macan when she finally arrives.

Formed from a piece of steel, bent to the appropriate angle and a dimple ground into it so it ‘snicks’ into the visor mount of the V-1. Very stable, and because it’s mounted just below the shade band, very stealthy and can hardly be seen from out side of the car.

For the Macan, just need to find an appropriate spot for the remote display and run the wires.
 

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http://www.valentine1.com/v1info/v1connection/android/images/in_the_box.gif[/IMG]

My hope is that we are able to program the V1 to ignore signals that are outside the box. I have to send one of my units in for the upgrade to be able to report back. I'll get that done this week.
The box thing is more for Ka band, which is very wide from 33.8 to 35.5. There are false alerts that come from Cobra radar detectors but they're usually far away from the 3 main frequencies (33.8, 34.7, 35.5) so the box shows you if its police radar or a Cobra.

The problem is all the automatic door and blind spot systems use K band and doesn't really fall outside normal police radar (24.050 to 24.250). So you can't really filter it out with the box method. There at other options that help the V1 filter out K band that is likely a false but you will still get some false K band alerts.
 

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Items needed:


  • Hardwire kit
  • Power line (telephone cord in the case of V1)
  • Fuse appropriate for your detector
  • HHA Add a circuit fuse block tap, standard size (there's a smaller size available as well; use the larger of the two)
Up next I went to the workbench and assembled the V1 power tap to the Add a Circuit by crimping the butt connector so that both red wires are joined.

Whoosh, thank you for the great write up. I just purchased the V1 and Blendmount and am getting ready to install per your directions but have 2 questions:

1. Are these included in the V1 box?
  • Hardwire kit
  • Power line (telephone cord in the case of V1)
  • Fuse appropriate for your detector
  • HHA Add a circuit fuse block tap, standard size (there's a smaller size available as well; use the larger of the two)
2. Can you please expand how to do the pictured step above? I'm a bit confused as to what it is and why it's done:

"V1 power tap to the Add a Circuit by crimping the butt connector so that both red wires are joined."

Thanks!
 

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Whoosh, thank you for the great write up. I just purchased the V1 and Blendmount and am getting ready to install per your directions but have 2 questions:

1. Are these included in the V1 box?
  • Hardwire kit
  • Power line (telephone cord in the case of V1)
  • Fuse appropriate for your detector
  • HHA Add a circuit fuse block tap, standard size (there's a smaller size available as well; use the larger of the two)
2. Can you please expand how to do the pictured step above? I'm a bit confused as to what it is and why it's done:

"V1 power tap to the Add a Circuit by crimping the butt connector so that both red wires are joined."

Thanks!
You don't really need an Add-a-Fuse if you just use a blade lug to connect it as I've done:

http://www.macanforum.com/forum/electronics/28049-gordogs-valentine-one-installation.html
 

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You don't really need an Add-a-Fuse if you just use a blade lug to connect it as I've done:

http://www.macanforum.com/forum/electronics/28049-gordogs-valentine-one-installation.html
Unfortunately the pictures in your post do not show how to attach the blade lug. It only shows it after it was installed. Perhaps I'm being obtuse and it is obvious and self explanatory but I think it's the one step that is not adequately outlined and either posts. I would greatly appreciate any clarification you could provide.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
1. Are these included in the V1 box?
  • Hardwire kit
  • Power line (telephone cord in the case of V1)
  • Fuse appropriate for your detector
  • HHA Add a circuit fuse block tap, standard size (there's a smaller size available as well; use the larger of the two)
2. Can you please expand how to do the pictured step above? I'm a bit confused as to what it is and why it's done:

"V1 power tap to the Add a Circuit by crimping the butt connector so that both red wires are joined."

Thanks!
Answers:

1: Everything but the Add a Fuse is included in the V1 kit.

2: The red wire in the V1 hardwire kit (attached to the black module and ending in bare copper in my pic) needs to become energized by the fuse circuit. I inserted the bare copper end of the wire into the blue butt connector that's part of the Add a Fuse, which then makes it easy to power the V1 by replacing a fuse on the panel.

As gordog noted, you could also terminate the red wire with a fuse blade or even just shove the wire into an open energized fuse location. The add a fuse makes the process a little bit more plug-n-play.
 

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I see and will give it a try. Many thanks!
 
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