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You may have to manhandle the new sub in, so don't be alarmed. You could also run it in with your mounting screws...little bit on each one around the sub.

You will have to cut off the factory connector, strip the wires and then attach them to the new sub.
Rather than cut connector could you use spade connectors attached to wire with stripped end, and attach stripped end to new sub and spade to connector?

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Discussion Starter #22
^^^^^I believe you may be able to do this! Find the right spade connector to fit into the factory sub connector. You're good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I only used one voice coil. From what I read/saw that was how it was done. (I can look into if using both will work).

Yes, I just replaced the dash tweeters, no other ones.

Left the center channel alone. It doesn't bother me!
 

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I only used one voice coil. From what I read/saw that was how it was done. (I can look into if using both will work).
I’ve never seen a dual voice coil speaker used with only one powered coil. And in this configuration, it’s still better sounding than the BOSE?

And I don’t know if ‘17 is different than ‘18 (I know the amp is gone from the box, but not sure if anything else), but there was zero chance of manhandling the P3SD2-8 in to place for me. I tried a Dremel to the plastic BOSE box to widen the diameter to fit the speaker, and it still would not sit proper. I ended up buying a 1/2” speaker spacer from Amazon to get it to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Yes, it still sounds better than the factory BOSE. Crutchfield tech said I could run it either way--but to ohm out factory speak first and try to 'match' the ohms so the amp won't work too hard.

OK, solid that you used a spacer, that would make it easier for sure!
 

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Yes, it still sounds better than the factory BOSE. Crutchfield tech said I could run it either way--but to ohm out factory speak first and try to 'match' the ohms so the amp won't work too hard.
I wasn’t sure if I was going to try the P3SD4-8 (4ohm) and bridge it down to 2... Or get the P3SD2-8. I caved to self induced peer pressure and bought the 2 like what seems to be everyone else on the board. I’m finishing the install this weekend... can’t wait!
 

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@Sizzle Chest, nice upgrade.

I started just like this, with exactly the same intention... then thought to my self, what if I just upgrade the center channel as well... then I had to do the front door midrange... ended up with a full blown upgrade, including amplifiers... well, this is another story, but I’m glad I did.

You should seriously consider the rear door tweeters and the center channel... I think that this is where you get the most bang for your buck, aside from the upgrade you just did.

In any case, for me, after trying multiple ways to connect the tweeters, none of them worked very well. I too had to cut the wires. What I did to preserve some sense of factory retrofit is that I added spade connectors to both sides of the wire I cut. When the time comes that I need to install the old Bose tweeters back, I just reconnect the Bose adapter to the spade connectors and keep going. Obviously connected the new tweeters using spade connectors.

You can use this kit from Amazon... You can use this also to retrofit the subwoofer as well with spades on one end and bare on the other (I did this as well when I installed the RF some time ago).

Twidec/270Pcs Assortment Kit Quick Splice Male and Female Wire Spade 2.8/4.8/6.3mm Connector Crimp Terminal Block with Insulating Sleeve for Electrical Wiring Car Audio Speaker
by TWIDEC
Learn more: Twidec/270Pcs Assortment Kit Quick Splice Male and Female Wire Spade 2.8/4.8/6.3mm Connector Crimp Terminal Block with Insulating Sleeve for Electrical Wiring Car Audio Speaker: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

My complete upgrade was done with the premise that I could reinstall the Bose system back in a day... If you have any questions regarding materials, part numbers, procedures I used, I’ll be happy to help.


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I wasn’t sure if I was going to try the P3SD4-8 (4ohm) and bridge it down to 2... Or get the P3SD2-8. I caved to self induced peer pressure and bought the 2 like what seems to be everyone else on the board. I’m finishing the install this weekend... can’t wait!
I installed the RF P3SD2-8, wired for 1-ohm. The little Bose amp can handle it. Unless you are setting volume to max and listening to boomy music (and losing your ears in the process) you should be OK. The RF P3SD2-8 wired at 2-ohms is really a nice upgrade over the Bose OEM. That RF sub have a good deep bass punch with no distortion.

In my case, I wasn’t able to manhandle the sub into position either. I also had to use a 1/2” spacer.

Also, I ended up changing the RF for an Audison sub, and the Bose amplifier didn’t drive this Audison sub as well. So, if you want to do a good sub upgrade, by keeping the Bose sub amp in place, the RF subwoofer is the way to go.


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Discussion Starter #29
Thank you Santirx! I've been following your upgrade thread along with the others and appreciate the time and effort it takes to continually update it with your information and pics!

Thanks again for the info!! I do appreciate it!
 

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I installed the RF P3SD2-8, wired for 2-ohms. The little Bose amp can handle it. Unless you are setting volume to max and listening to boomy music (and losing your ears in the process) you should be OK. The RF P3SD2-8 wired at 2-ohms is really a nice upgrade over the Bose OEM. That RF sub have a good deep bass punch with no distortion.

In my case, I wasn’t able to manhandle the sub into position either. I also had to use a 1/2” spacer.

Also, I ended up changing the RF for an Audison sub, and the Bose amplifier didn’t drive this Audison sub as well. So, if you want to do a good sub upgrade, by keeping the Bose sub amp in place, the RF subwoofer is the way to go.


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possibly dumb question, but how are you wiring the RF P3SD2-8 to 2 ohm? I wired mine in series to get 4 ohm. Wouldn’t wiring it in parallel end up with 1 ohm? Are you just using one voice coil?
 

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Yes, 1-ohm (calculation of resistance in parallel circuits). I need to fix that in my post. Thank you! It was a while since I did this, and I sold mine quite some time ago...

The new Audison I got is also dual coil 4 + 4 and that is wired in parallel for 2-ohms.
 
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