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Discussion Starter #1
Followed a few on here's lead...upgraded to a new sub and new dash tweets. Sounds very nice. Factory tweets sounded a little muddy, these are nice and clear. Sub hits a lot harder than the factory Bose unit.

Overall very happy with this! Thanks to all on here who have posted about their upgrades/pics, helped me out a lot!



Factory vs aftermarket:
























 

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Very nice!

Was the wiring as easy as power to power, ground to ground, with no resistors? Did the speakers just bolt right in with no spacers or anything?
 

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I'm very interested in more details as well, in the level of "plug and play" this was. Perhaps model numbers or links to the new units would be great.

This looks like the amount of effort I am willing to do for a little extra something on the audio front. That long running Bose to Burmester thread is a bit intimidating to read through.

I also recall reading in another thread that removing the interior A pillar (looks like you removed) is on so tight that you risk cracking the windshield? What was your experience there?
 

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Love this thread..something i wanna do here soon!

If you could post part numbers of what you put in, that would be awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all! Sub was easy. Remove and replace, new one was a tighter fit and had to muscle it in, but not hard at all.
Tweeters were just a bit more involved with removing the panels.

I had no issues with removing them at all. They were tight, but removed easy enough.

Wiring was pretty straight forward. Cut the factory connectors, stripped back the insulation and installed into the sub.

Tweeters came with a capacitor that I used. Cut off factory connectors, and again went + to +, - to -.

Done.

Subwoofer: Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 Punch Stage 3 shallow 8" w/dual 2 ohm voice coils.

Tweeters: JL Audio C5075-CT C5 Series 3/4" silk dome tweeters.
 

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Thanks all! Sub was easy. Remove and replace, new one was a tighter fit and had to muscle it in, but not hard at all.
Tweeters were just a bit more involved with removing the panels.

I had no issues with removing them at all. They were tight, but removed easy enough.

Wiring was pretty straight forward. Cut the factory connectors, stripped back the insulation and installed into the sub.

Tweeters came with a capacitor that I used. Cut off factory connectors, and again went + to +, - to -.

Done.

Subwoofer: Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 Punch Stage 3 shallow 8" w/dual 2 ohm voice coils.

Tweeters: JL Audio C5075-CT C5 Series 3/4" silk dome tweeters.
So what is the quality improvement on a 1 - 10 scale?
 

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Thanks for the update. Couple more questions if you don't mind.

Did you simply keep the factory Bose amp with all this? I think it looks like the amp is removed from the rectangle cavity in your subwoofer pic.

Do you have pic of what the factory connection/harness looks like for the sub? It looks like the Bose woofer just has male spade connectors sticking out from your removed from car pic. Just trying to think of non-cutting-harness alternatives if possible.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Subwoofer: +8--a lot more/deeper bass
Tweeters: +5/6--very clean, not muddy. Clear.

Yep, still using the Bose amp. I believe in 17+ they moved the amp from the sub box into the side panel.

Factory sub had spades, aftermarket has the spring loaded type/pull back, put the wire in/let go type connectors.

I just cut the factory connector off, stripped the wires and inserted them into the proper sub terminals.
 

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Awesome. Thanks for the feedback. I think I will definitely try the subwoofer upgrade as a gateway. Your 8/10 rating sounds pretty worth it.

Where did you purchase from? Looks like Crutchfield (my preference) is out of stock, and Amazon has a third party seller with mixed reviews.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Crutchfield. It was out of stock when I ordered too...I just waited! Took a few weeks.
 

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I have the black plastic Bose subwoofer box in front of my battery in the trunk on my 2017 GTS. How do I remove and access the Bose speaker to replace with the Fosgate? Is there a mounting bracket underneath?
 

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I’m interested in this. Can you post links to the parts please? Would love to update the bass which I think needs to be tighter. Tweeters could use a cleaner sound.

edit: i saw the product names. Will order the sub for now from Crutchfield. Do i simply unplug the oem one and drop in the new one? You mentioned it’s tight. Is it a squeeze to get it in? Wondering if that affects anything like surrounding parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You may have to manhandle the new sub in, so don't be alarmed. You could also run it in with your mounting screws...little bit on each one around the sub.

You will have to cut off the factory connector, strip the wires and then attach them to the new sub.
 

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This is great info. Thanks for sharing! One question about the sub. I assume you used both voice coils. Did you wire them in parallel (1 ohm mode) or series (4 ohm mode)?
 

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Oh please! A good parts list to replace my “ No highs no lows” Bose. H8 Bose with a passion. I even dumped their aviation headset since it started electrocuting my ears. Very distracting!
 

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Did you disconnect the front center channel? I've read a bunch of audio posts here and that seems to be a common rec for improving the sound. Been meaning to get to it...
Also, did you just replace the front tweeters? Aren't there tweeters in the rear doors as well?
Thanks for sharing--looking forward to doing something like this myself.
 
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