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"sometimes" when I'm backing out the garage door into driveway, and then when I go from R to D there is a big lurch....like it's searching for gear...no real noise other than a clunky feel......but it only does it sometime......maybe depending on how far I've turned steering wheel?
Mine does the same thing. I reverse, complete stop, quick shift to D, depress accelerator modestly ..... the engine revs, but nothing happens for ~1 second then seems to grab and move forward. Like you no noise. It's bit of a shock when it happens. I mentioned this to the Service Advisor when I brought it in for the transfer case evaluation, but he suggested it might be transmission fluid related. I've read that when the fluid is low or old, the transmission feels like it is slipping. Fluid level was fine. When the transfer case is replaced in 3 weeks, I will ask to have the transmission fluid and filter replaced at that time.

I'll let you know if any of these changes improves things.

But I have noticed in sport plus when I'm coasting, the downshift is very revvy and shudders....
Mine does the same thing. Lately the S+ seems to rev at even higher revs than previously, even when I'm just coasting down to a stop.

I was able to speak to both the mechanic and service advisor at length:
0) Normal: No shudder when in normal or lowered height when turning hard right/left or any height when driving straight under light acceleration
1) Normal: Small shudder while in off-road mode with the steering wheel turned hard left/right. It would feel/sound like gently tapping your knuckle on a hard surface in .5 second intervals <-- when the Macan is in off-road mode, more power is transmitted to the front wheels
2) NOT Normal: Big shudder while in off-road mode with the steering wheel turned hard left/right It would feel like someone is pushing you firmly in the small of your back in .25-.5 second intervals
3) NOT Normal: Shudder/vibration/slippage while gently accelerating straight or again at ~50-60 km/hrs in any height mode <--it may be barely perceivable.
4) The low speed straight line shudder is mostly felt in the steering wheel. It's like driving on a pebbled surface or road cracks.
5) The hard right/left turn shudder is felt like it's coming from below your seat affecting the whole car.

The diagnostic steps were:
1) Transmission reset
2) Road test (normal and offroad mode)
3) Visual inspection on the hoist
4) Checked for related SY / TI <-- I don't know what this means
5) Disconnected transfer case electrical connectors and re-road tested <-- all shuddering stopped

After the evaluation, the shuddering seemed to be twice as bad.
 

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@FAST, thanks for describing all symptoms in detail. One reads about all the Transfer Case issues, and thinking how the heck do I know if mine is bad? Your post is really good at clarifying this question.
 

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Thanks for the kind words. I slightly reworded the original post to make it a little clearer.

Dealer also told me:
1) They average 5 replacements per week and did 9 transfer case replacements last week. They typically keep 5-6 in stock. It's a common problem.
2) Older Cayennes and Macans (2014 and older) tend to have greater probability of failure and sooner (30K-40K km) and are often replaced 2+ times in the first 5 years
3) Symptoms can be mild for a while and very suddenly get worse. Mechanic thinks often-use of off-road mode accelerates the problem.
4) Mechanic says the problem rarely results in the car becoming undriveable, just various degrees of degraded.
5) Older SUVs (Cayenne 2011-14) have a 10 year extended warranty (from date of manufacturer), newer SUVs (Cayenne 15-18 and Macan 14-18) is 7 year. However they believe the 7 year is now also 10 (I couldn't verify that via Google)
6) Problem is believed to be solved starting with the 2019 model.
7) The problem is fixed by modding returned transfer cases (in China I believe?). Transfer case is fully rebuilt and modded, send back to Porsche who (apparently) thoroughly tests it.
8) I was told the cost of the part retail is $4500 and the labour another $1600 dollars. ~$6K CDN and ~$4K US. Internally, they get paid ~$900 labour.
9) Evaluation charge is $200 CDN. If no problem found, you pay $200, otherwise it's covered under the recall
10) Take your wheel spacers off. I'm guessing that oversized rims and tires may also create hassles
 

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Fantastic. These two posts from @FAST should be pinned to the top of this thread. And I hope you are right, about the 7 years being extended to 10. My 7 years are due this November.
 

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So, second transfer case was replaced 3 weeks ago. Car started jerking again and it is worse than before replacing the transfer case. Even my kids mentioned that it feels like the car has hiccups. It is most prominent when car shifts from 1st to 2nd and 3rd gears. Spoke with my SA and he wants the car for a day so they can do some deeper search. He said it would be a record for a transfer case to go bad but it can be possible. Any other things that could be causing the car to jerk/hiccup in low speeds and low gears?
 

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...... Any other things that could be causing the car to jerk/hiccup in low speeds and low gears?
Is the jerking amplified when in off-road mode and slowly turning hard left or right? Or just when turning hard left/right if you don't have AS? If yes, sounds like a defective replacement Transfer case. It's possible they didn't follow the exact procedure for set-up of the case. I understand there is a sequence of unplugging/plugging/resetting that has to be followed and they may also choose to reset the transmission.

If no, perhaps:
1. Transmission fluid fully topped up?
2. Transmission fluid due for a change
3. Drive shafts not properly torqued to the transfer case and you are getting a little slap on the connectors?
^^-- Educated guesses.

Please let us know the root cause when you find out.
 

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Is the jerking amplified when in off-road mode and slowly turning hard left or right? Or just when turning hard left/right if you don't have AS? If yes, sounds like a defective replacement Transfer case. It's possible they didn't follow the exact procedure for set-up of the case. I understand there is a sequence of unplugging/plugging/resetting that has to be followed and they may also choose to reset the transmission.

If no, perhaps:
1. Transmission fluid fully topped up?
2. Transmission fluid due for a change
3. Drive shafts not properly torqued to the transfer case and you are getting a little slap on the connectors?
^^-- Educated guesses.

Please let us know the root cause when you find out.
Thank you so much for great thoughts on what might be the cause of the problem. Trying to answer your questions:
  • I haven't tried off-road mode. I actually don't think I ever pressed that button in 6 years of owning the car;
  • The jerkiness is not related to turning the car. The car jerks on a straight road when shifting gears of when I take the foot from the accelerator a little bit and press it again. Only in low speeds;
  • Car has 53k miles and all services are up to date and done at the dealer so transmission fluid should be good (I think I did it at the 40k miles service)

I got an appointment in 2 weeks since I cannot do this week and they did not have loaners available earlier. Will keep you guys posted. Car is no longer under warranty but I have Geico MBI so not much concerned about a big expense in case it is not the transfer case.
 
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  • I haven't tried off-road mode. I actually don't think I ever pressed that button in 6 years of owning the car;​
;-) Me too, only reason I've ever pressed it was to diagnose this problem. But I like buttons, so I love the Macan.

  • The jerkiness is not related to turning the car. The car jerks on a straight road when shifting gears of when I take the foot from the accelerator a little bit and press it again. Only in low speeds
Turning jerkiness especially in off-road mode is the biggest tell. However most cars also experience your slow acceleration jerkiness too. Mine does this around 0-5 mph and again at 30mph. After I went in for the diagnoses, by car's symptoms were much worse, especially the slow acceleration jerkiness.

Full disclosure: I am guessing at possible other causes. I have done a lot of research about the problem and now realize that Porsche has built a complex SUV that's dependent on multiple independent computers/software in every major component of the car that have been integrated together. For example if a mechanic updates component 1 (or even just unplugs/replugs) they sometimes have to reset component 2. Sometimes they have to disconnect/reconnect the battery, all in the right order. I've seen their procedure documentation on a computer, it is very detailed but a missed step could lead to weird problems. I have 20+ years turning wrenches under the hoods of muscle cars, but I can't even find the Macan motor under the hood for all the wires and pipes.
 

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Learned a bit more about transfer case (TC) failure from a Porsche service manager (SM) today. As mentioned elsewhere the root problem is a breather/filter tube on the bottom of the TC that allows moisture to get into the TC which damages the fluid and degrades the TC's performance.

To resolve this, the returned TC case is modified to remove the breather on the bottom and replace it with a top breather that is designed to prevent moisture from getting in. The guts are rebuilt, Porsche tests it and sends it back for the next replacement.

According to the SM the TC's mechanicals aren't damaged by this problem most of the time, but the rebuilt and replacement is a NA solution "encouraged" by American regulators. In Europe the first solution tried is to replace the TC fluid with a different fluid (he told me the name, but I lost my notes), add a friction modifier and reflash the TC with the lastest code. This solves the problem ~80% of the time. Maintenance is required every 4 years. Only if the problem persists is the TC replaced.

So, if your TC case is out of warranty there is potentially a few hundred dollar solution vs a $4K+ solution worth a try.

Lastly, the SM said his dealership adds the friction modifier to all their TC rebuilds and suggested I do the same. Available from Porsche parts.
 

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Learned a bit more about transfer case (TC) failure from a Porsche service manager (SM) today. As mentioned elsewhere the root problem is a breather/filter tube on the bottom of the TC that allows moisture to get into the TC which damages the fluid and degrades the TC's performance.

To resolve this, the returned TC case is modified to remove the breather on the bottom and replace it with a top breather that is designed to prevent moisture from getting in. The guts are rebuilt, Porsche tests it and sends it back for the next replacement.

According to the SM the TC's mechanicals aren't damaged by this problem most of the time, but the rebuilt and replacement is a NA solution "encouraged" by American regulators. In Europe the first solution tried is to replace the TC fluid with a different fluid (he told me the name, but I lost my notes), add a friction modifier and reflash the TC with the lastest code. This solves the problem ~80% of the time. Maintenance is required every 4 years. Only if the problem persists is the TC replaced.

So, if your TC case is out of warranty there is potentially a few hundred dollar solution vs a $4K+ solution worth a try.

Lastly, the SM said his dealership adds the friction modifier to all their TC rebuilds and suggested I do the same. Available from Porsche parts.
Thanks. Very good information to have... do you have a link for that friction modifier? Not that I need it, but would be good to have the reference.
 

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Thanks. Very good information to have... do you have a link for that friction modifier? Not that I need it, but would be good to have the reference.
No, he told be the name of the TC oil (but I lost my notes) and said the friction modifier was available at the parts counter. He also said there was a Porsche Technical Bulletin for the procedure. I tried searching, but nothing, it might be a European only TC?

Rennlist has a thread on both products and they say it's a Ford product - I'm guesses it's just Ford rebranded. I wouldn't suggest buying the Ford product, I'd buy the one sold or recommended by Porsche. My Macan is in today having the TC swapped, I'll ask my service advisor about it.
 
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