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Trailer weight = combined weight - tow vehicle weight
Trailer weight = 10,660 - 5420 = 5240

Then, Tongue weight = trailer weight - trailer axle load
Tongue weight = 5240 - 4640 = 600

And tongue weight is determined without load bars in place. You can also buy a special tongue weight scale to directly measure it (unhitched) as you move your load fore and aft or change what you bring along, but this derived method is quite precise too. Just keep the shank and ball off for your first scale pass so their weight doesn't get included in the tow vehicle weight. You can extract a lot of information from those 3 passes over the scales.
 

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Trailer weight = combined weight - tow vehicle weight
Trailer weight = 10,660 - 5420 = 5240

Then, Tongue weight = trailer weight - trailer axle load
Tongue weight = 5240 - 4640 = 600

And tongue weight is determined without load bars in place. You can also buy a special tongue weight scale to directly measure it (unhitched) as you move your load fore and aft or change what you bring along, but this derived method is quite precise too. Just keep the shank and ball off for your first scale pass so their weight doesn't get included in the tow vehicle weight. You can extract a lot of information from those 3 passes over the scales.
Hi @Dkayak

Edit:- I initially struggled with this as it was more intuitive to me to derive tongue weight by
calculating Hitched Tow vehicle weight (measured) – Tow Vehicle Weight Unhitched (measured) rather than the steps you outlined. Thinking it through I see how your method provides an alternative method.(y)Thanks
 

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Hi - new to the forum. Just picked up a 16 foot Airstream trailer - 2800 lbs dry, 350 lb tongue weight fits within the Macan's towing capacities.

I ask about this set up to solicit the experiences of other forum members. I've read some threads here about towing equivalent set ups, but none mention the base Macan.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!

tim
 

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Well it's clear the drivetrain and suspension will handle it, but the base engine will probably need to work harder than the bigger engines in other trims.

Wind resistance is your biggest load factor and it increases exponentially with speed. Slower speeds are your friend for this and other reasons, especially on windy days. You don't want a "wag the dog" situation. And with that in mind, consider a weight distributing hitch (WDH). There's a lot posted on those in other threads.

We towed a roughly 6000 lb camper last year with a Cayenne S and learned a lot in the process. It doesn't have a dual clutch transmission, but with its transmission and torque converter, it's recommended to avoid using cruise control, as it will try to shift up into overdrive(s) then back down very frequently. Without cruise engaged, it doesn't do all of that "hunting" for a nonexistent (or briefly existent) perfect gear. This also keeps the rpms steady in a nice range. It might be good advice for the PDK too.
 

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I’m interested in this thread as well, and using base for a 320-S. hitch is going on in a few weeks, and looking for some kind of wireless (or no wire cutting) solution.
We had good luck with the Curt Echo wireless brake controller. It can be a bit fussy to pair with German SUV's but once paired it's solid. Just be sure your headlights are set to "off", not auto, when you plug it into your car. Then connect your trailer and switch to "on" for towing and it should work fine. If it ever loses its Bluetooth connection (very rare), it continues to operate with the same settings you've established. There are other good wireless options too.
 

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I’m interested in this thread as well, and using base for a 320-S. hitch is going on in a few weeks, and looking for some kind of wireless (or no wire cutting) solution.
Either way you go with a Curt Brand wireless or wired you will NOT have to cut into anything. There is a thread on here that will detail all the parts you need and where to plug into under the dash for you trailer brake controller.
 

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One more recollection on turbocharger boost. IIRC, our Cayenne required less boost in lower gears, often none. Apparently higher rpm requires less help? Without cruise it happily ran most of the time in 6th at 2200 rpm, shifting up to 7th on downhill grades and maybe briefly into 5th on steep uphills. With cruise engaged it would "hunt" more, trying to get up into 7th more often/briefly and sometimes even into 8th (both of which are overdrive gears). However, the boost would increase with these upshifts. I really don't know which produced the best gas mileage. It's pretty bad either way. As a rule of thumb, most folks will tell you to expect to see mileage drop by about half with any tow vehicle, even diesel pickups, so don't be shocked. Good luck guys!
 

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Either way you go with a Curt Brand wireless or wired you will NOT have to cut into anything. There is a thread on here that will detail all the parts you need and where to plug into under the dash for you trailer brake controller.
The other wireless controller is the Tekonsha Prodigy. It has an excellent reputation too.
 
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I recently shared my WDH experiences with @David L a Macan friend from Oz. They are pretty incredible devices. Towing Capacity
 
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