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Yes, I had a feeling that you might have 'confused' the spare into thinking it was a bit larger. :unsure:;)

I have no doubt in your ability to road test new purchases for me to follow up, my new purpose designed box combined with some extra size and driven by more watts = :cool:

First read the above yesterday late, after making the first few pieces of the new box, but as it was seriously 'beer o-clock' on a very warm day at that time I thought I would wait till this morning to reply. Have the REW all set to run a base line on the current sub, then will run one on the final set up plus a side one with the RF box (might even do one with current Toro drive then one with the M one).

Now it's off to the workshop for more fun ... before the heat gets too much!
 

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Wow!👂:sneaky:

It's been very hot here in the workshop tooling away on my new sub box, it's different to the @Ge0 and @Santirx variants due to aforementioned 19" spacesaver spare which by the way is about 24" in dia and that's a good 2" bigger than the more common 18" variant. Just a few problems to overcome, including the intruding handle from the folding floor piece so I will need to have a good think about that one.

When it's all done I will post up some happy snaps and a few words on how to fill your workshop and surrounds with copious MDF dust ... 😯
 

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Just a few problems to overcome, including the intruding handle from the folding floor piece so I will need to have a good think about that one.
To solve the intruding handle issue, give consideration to the following tools...

These are for your router:

239009


Template for your cut... with the tool above follow contour...
239010


This is my work...
239011
 

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Yes, I saw your very neat work around the handle bump. On my car, I measured the removal of MDF as more than the whole top board thickness (more than 20 mm of material). So I looked at a more practical solution and removed the plastic insert in the board - it clips together top to bottom. This leaves me with a square hole in the board which bothers me not a bit as I have a plastic tray insert plus the small extra carpet piece that sits above this so I will only see the hole when I need to get into the storage space to get to the spare. I will probably line the new 'hole' with a short length of the same pinch weld that I used on my mesh grill inserts (you might have seen that one). Thanks for the thought, some of those tools are a bit difficult to find around here. I have two routers and a router bench but the guides are hard to find.

I did the glue and screw job yesterday on the new speaker box, before I started to clean up the workshop for today's work on a mates 911. Fortunately the four days of 35-40 degrees (C) have now gone. With other distractions I hope to get back onto the box on the weekend. I did do an REW on my original small RF sub in the standard box then the new RF in it's original box - the new RF in it's box did not have the dip in it that the Bose box had. I will be running more comparisons with the newly made box on the Toro and then the new M-one when I get time and will post the results.

Anyway, the 911 is inbound so I had better get off this and into the garage. ;) :rolleyes:
 

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You’re welcome. It would be great to see a photo of what you are describing...
 

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It's been over a week now of being a workshop elf and I now have the box part next to finished. A quick test run with the 10" box installed and hooked up to the Toro MR2 and yes ... there is a big difference, now there is considerably more sub working with a lot more clarity and I had to cut the bass boost back at the head unit. To clarify my words on the floor handle intrusion, have a look

239205

I separated the handle pieces so I did not have the big intrusion below the board, but still cut a small relief in the sub box top.

239206

Now with the speaker in place and the floor board set at it's normal height (no spacers added) I can put a finger through and lift it up. In my car the floor board is also covered by a separate extra carpet and the large plastic slide in protector so this hole will not be visible. I have yet to finish around the edges of the board.

Now I am busy resorting and stacking the revised V Twelve, NAVTV 150 and the M One (in place of the Toro) into the standard location - it's taking a little more time to get it right and mounting plate bits are constantly being tried and corrected, but I will get there!


Of course, the next questions that come are the settings for the trimmers on the Helix M One. I know these mono amps are designed as stand alone bits for large systems so you get a set of trimmers to adjust the level input, subsonic filter, lowpass filter, phase shift, bass boost and bass frequency. The majority of these can be controlled by the V Twelve, but I wonder what base settings I should use for these trimmers on installation? Thinking about mid point settings for all (except the phase shift). Looked back over this thread as I was aware some had Helix M Ones fitted (@Draper and maybe @Ge0 too) but Draper has gone quiet and so has Ge0 too - if your out there and have any experience/suggestions please raise them.

Yes, I will add a series of happy snaps, REW files and some words on this new box into my 'Bose-ectomy' thread when I have completed the work. Now it's back into the workshop for me ...:oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #1,088
It's been over a week now of being a workshop elf and I now have the box part next to finished. A quick test run with the 10" box installed and hooked up to the Toro MR2 and yes ... there is a big difference, now there is considerably more sub working with a lot more clarity and I had to cut the bass boost back at the head unit. To clarify my words on the floor handle intrusion, have a look

View attachment 239205
I separated the handle pieces so I did not have the big intrusion below the board, but still cut a small relief in the sub box top.

View attachment 239206
Now with the speaker in place and the floor board set at it's normal height (no spacers added) I can put a finger through and lift it up. In my car the floor board is also covered by a separate extra carpet and the large plastic slide in protector so this hole will not be visible. I have yet to finish around the edges of the board.

Now I am busy resorting and stacking the revised V Twelve, NAVTV 150 and the M One (in place of the Toro) into the standard location - it's taking a little more time to get it right and mounting plate bits are constantly being tried and corrected, but I will get there!


Of course, the next questions that come are the settings for the trimmers on the Helix M One. I know these mono amps are designed as stand alone bits for large systems so you get a set of trimmers to adjust the level input, subsonic filter, lowpass filter, phase shift, bass boost and bass frequency. The majority of these can be controlled by the V Twelve, but I wonder what base settings I should use for these trimmers on installation? Thinking about mid point settings for all (except the phase shift). Looked back over this thread as I was aware some had Helix M Ones fitted (@Draper and maybe @Ge0 too) but Draper has gone quiet and so has Ge0 too - if your out there and have any experience/suggestions please raise them.

Yes, I will add a series of happy snaps, REW files and some words on this new box into my 'Bose-ectomy' thread when I have completed the work. Now it's back into the workshop for me ...:oops:
Not quiet entirely. Just busy and doing a lot of procrastinating :)

As far as the M-One settings.

INPUT LEVEL --> Turn clockwise 3/4 full. Use your V12 output gain on the computer to set final level. Make sure you start at zero and work upwards :)
SUBSONIC --> Turn fully counter clockwise. Set a 15Hz 24dB/octave high pass filter on your V12. Set the low pass as you desire (typically 70Hz to 90Hz)
LOWPASS --> Turn fully clockwise. You don't want the M-One amplifier filter to fight with your DSP lowpass
PHASE --> Turn fully counter clockwise. Use your V12 DSP to adjust the subwoofers phase.
BASS BOOST --> Turn all the way counter clockwise. That's what you have a DSP and EQ for :)
BASS FREQ --> Turn all the way counter clockwise. That's what you have a DSP and EQ for :)

Please post a few pictures of your amp rack. I'm going to duplicate yours in the spring when I start working on my car again.

Ge0
 

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Ge0, thanks for the fast return. I will apply those settings on the morrow, I have just run it all up on REW today to see where I was at. o_O The separate volume control on the M One is interesting, I will probably try to get that into the console so it can be easily reached, but wonder what it will do for my peace of mind - maybe nothing!

Found a good profile on the sub in the base settings I used with REW, but after running the Helix Autoset over the sub alone then running the everything on test in REW, the sub had dropped it's profile - the line was pretty flat from 20 to 500. After I have applied you suggestions, I will spend a bit more time to get the sub's profile up a lot higher like it was at the beginning, unfortunately not enough effort left in the day after sorting the wiring and mounts, it takes it out of you. Did open up an issue with the micro USB connection out from the V Twelve, I have squeezed it a bit tight (too close) to the NAVTV unit and it is giving me an on/off dropout - I had this issue before. So I will be correcting that too (maybe a re-do of the mountings that M One is just a bit big :unsure:).

I will post up the happy snaps when I am happy with it too!:oops:
 

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Ge0, thanks for the fast return. I will apply those settings on the morrow, I have just run it all up on REW today to see where I was at. o_O The separate volume control on the M One is interesting, I will probably try to get that into the console so it can be easily reached, but wonder what it will do for my peace of mind - maybe nothing!

Found a good profile on the sub in the base settings I used with REW, but after running the Helix Autoset over the sub alone then running the everything on test in REW, the sub had dropped it's profile - the line was pretty flat from 20 to 500. After I have applied you suggestions, I will spend a bit more time to get the sub's profile up a lot higher like it was at the beginning, unfortunately not enough effort left in the day after sorting the wiring and mounts, it takes it out of you. Did open up an issue with the micro USB connection out from the V Twelve, I have squeezed it a bit tight (too close) to the NAVTV unit and it is giving me an on/off dropout - I had this issue before. So I will be correcting that too (maybe a re-do of the mountings that M One is just a bit big :unsure:).

I will post up the happy snaps when I am happy with it too!:oops:
You don't need to use the remote bass knob on the M-One. That's typically used for bass heads you like to crank it up once in a while.

Ge0
 

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What? No need for the bass adjust button! I might like to go around and scare the kids with my doof, DOOF sound going crazy - then again it's not something I need as it means yet more time required passing wires through and finding locations to fit things I don't need! :oops:

About to head to the workshop for that final installation work, there's only so much room in that original amp space and it's getting too crowded. But, after removing the complete left side trim panel I have now found the perfect space for the NAVTV 150. I should have done that earlier instead of trying to fit it through the normal access hole, but I had to get the panel off to find Mr Helix's silly little blue wire remote out connector from the back of the V Twelve, that fell off said blue wire, in one of the many in/out test fits. In the process of removing the side panel, one of the mounting pieces also broke away - it was after all the fourth time the panel has been in and out and they secured it by a form of plastic projection welding. :mad: Mr Araldite to the rescue!
 

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In case anyone is wondering. No, I am not done with my car stereo. I'm just taking a break for the winter. I don't have a large enough, or warm enough, garage to work in. So, I am keeping busy selecting what speakers I am going to try next.

That, and I may be replacing my Helix V Eight with a V Twelve in the spring...

Ge0
 

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@Geo0 One of these days when its safe and above zero are you up for a mountain bike ride and a stereo demo? I need some help opening Pandora's box on my '16.
 

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Finally, the Helix V Twelve package is giving signs of life... after basically 90 days, it finally arrived to the US Postal Service Network Distribution in New Jersey. Probably 5 to 10 more days until it gets here, hopefully. Been keeping busy with other DIY maintenance jobs in the meantime...
 

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@Geo0 One of these days when its safe and above zero are you up for a mountain bike ride and a stereo demo? I need some help opening Pandora's box on my '16.
Sure, one of these days. Maybe April :)
 

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Finally, the Helix V Twelve package is giving signs of life... after basically 90 days, it finally arrived to the US Postal Service Network Distribution in New Jersey. Probably 5 to 10 more days until it gets here, hopefully. Been keeping busy with other DIY maintenance jobs in the meantime...
Let me know when your package arrives (y) 🌈 😁
 

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What do you guys think about crossing tweeters at 2.3k LR 24db? It just sounds more pleasant to my ears. I read that a general rule of thumb is 2x your resonant frequency is ok. Running morel mt350. Safest low frequency 2k (1k x 2)?
240008
2
 

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What do you guys think about crossing tweeters at 2.3k LR 24db? It just sounds more pleasant to my ears. I read that a general rule of thumb is 2x your resonant frequency is ok. Running morel mt350. Safest low frequency 2k (1k x 2)? View attachment 240008 2
You should be OK with that crossover point if you keep your volume in check (meaning don't listen at ear splitting volumes where distortion could occur). What mid are you pairing them with? Is it door mounted in factory location?

Ge0
 

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You should be OK with that crossover point if you keep your volume in check (meaning don't listen at ear splitting volumes where distortion could occur). What mid are you pairing them with? Is it door mounted in factory location?

Ge0
Gotcha. Using esotar 430 in the factory location. They sound amazing but can be a little overpowering. I have the tweeters set 3db higher.
 
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