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View attachment 238725
Helix V Twelve locked and loaded. All speakers active except center (no center).

I have a question...

I read @Ge0 put his digital gain all the way up. Max digital gain is 10db. At this level everything definitely sounds more full but I had to bring them it down to 5db. Still at 5 db I see my door woofer is hitting close to the red marker on high volumes. Fyi I am crossed at 70hz, 300hz on a pair of Dynaudio MW182. To my understanding these woofers could handle this power with no problem.

View attachment 238726 View attachment 238727
Set your digital input gain all the way up (+10dB). The digital input will not clip. Adjust the output gain of each speaker type independently so they do not clip.

Ge0
 

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@Teddis, the Helix V Twelve have 12 amplified channels and 2 pre-amplified channels, a total of 14. I have a total of 14 speakers in the car.

I'm using the 12 amplified channels to power all speakers, except the center channel and the subwoofer. This includes connecting the two surround speakers each to an amplified channel (I'll separate them).

I'm using one of the pre-amp channels to power the AP1D for the subwoofer. Then, using the other pre-amp channel to power the Toro MRx4 to power the center channel. The MRx4 have 4 channels at 80W RMS, I'm only using one channel.

So, as far as the amplifiers, I will have the Helix V Twelve, the Audison AP1D and the Toro MRx4.

With this, I will be going full active, including the surrounds. I'm hoping that the experiment goes well... 🤞
I'm sure you already know this. But, the rear D-pillar surround effect speakers are wired together mono. If you leave them that way you can leave the last spare channel for your center. You would not need the Toro amp. If you think about the purpose / function of the rear effects leaving them mono is OK. Now, if you want to use them for differential rear fill then having them on their own channels is useful and can enhance the affect. But, not necessarily required.

Ge0
 

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View attachment 238725
Helix V Twelve locked and loaded. All speakers active except center (no center).

I have a question...

I read @Ge0 put his digital gain all the way up. Max digital gain is 10db. At this level everything definitely sounds more full but I had to bring them it down to 5db. Still at 5 db I see my door woofer is hitting close to the red marker on high volumes. Fyi I am crossed at 70hz, 300hz on a pair of Dynaudio MW182. To my understanding these woofers could handle this power with no problem.

View attachment 238726 View attachment 238727
@whokid707, are you doing anything with the subwoofer? Leaving the Bose?
 

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I was about to say (wow he's putting Illusion Audio mids in his REAR door). Seems like overkill. What are you using for tweets?

Ge0
Haha. Overkill yes. I got a great deal on them and couldnt pass up. Rear tweets are Morel MT450 (also great deal).
 

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I'm sure you already know this. But, the rear D-pillar surround effect speakers are wired together mono. If you leave them that way you can leave the last spare channel for your center. You would not need the Toro amp. If you think about the purpose / function of the rear effects leaving them mono is OK. Now, if you want to use them for differential rear fill then having them on their own channels is useful and can enhance the affect. But, not necessarily required.

Ge0
I’ll do some experimentation with this and report back. I already have the Toro MRx4, so, I might as well experiment...
 

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I have a love hate relationship with the center channel. I feel they make the front stage sound much fuller but at the cost of some clarity.
 

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After I am done putting the trunk back together, I have a JL XD300 mono amp and a JL Audio CS112LG-TW3 powerwedge from an older BMW build I attempted. It will sit in my trunk space.
Nice! That’s a nice system you are putting together.
 

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I have a love hate relationship with the center channel. I feel they make the front stage sound much fuller but at the cost of some clarity.
I hear you. My center channel is really a fill. I played with the center output level so that the stage is where I want it, left/right with the midrange and front/rear with the surround. The output level is basically 3-4dB below the mid range, just like the surround speakers are. Very subtle.
 

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I hear you. My center channel is really a fill. I played with the center output level so that the stage is where I want it, left/right with the midrange and front/rear with the surround. The output level is basically 3-4dB below the mid range, just like the surround speakers are. Very subtle.

Just enough to fill that space 👌🏾

I wonder if youre going to change your time measurement once you get the helix. It has this cool feature called “ATM- Automatic Time Measurement”. It does just that. I did it today and I am really liking the results.
 

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Ah Santirx, you have done it again, I feel the pull of another rabbit hole ...:oops:

Looking into the feasibility of your recent sub work, my problem is that there may not be enough space to fit that lovely new RF T1S2-10 in my car (remember, my car has the larger 19" spare) so I am in the process of cardboard mock ups! But, the folks at RF are very reluctant to give you any dimensions other than the basic three (depth, and two diameters). What I need to know is how far forward of the mounting surface the speaker protrudes, yes your photos show a large suspension roll and of course the enormous grill too.

Any chance you can do a quick measure of the front of the speaker, from the mounting surface forward to the top of the suspension roll for me? Prefer metric digits, but schooled in those old inch things ... ;)
 

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Ah Santirx, you have done it again, I feel the pull of another rabbit hole ...:oops:

Looking into the feasibility of your recent sub work, my problem is that there may not be enough space to fit that lovely new RF T1S2-10 in my car (remember, my car has the larger 19" spare) so I am in the process of cardboard mock ups! But, the folks at RF are very reluctant to give you any dimensions other than the basic three (depth, and two diameters). What I need to know is how far forward of the mounting surface the speaker protrudes, yes your photos show a large suspension roll and of course the enormous grill too.

Any chance you can do a quick measure of the front of the speaker, from the mounting surface forward to the top of the suspension roll for me? Prefer metric digits, but schooled in those old inch things ... ;)
About 35mm from flange to top of the surround rubber. But learned that you need to leave at least an additional 15 to 20mm of gap on top to account for the XMECH excursion.

238798
 

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Prefer metric digits, but schooled in those old inch things ... ;)
@Gra, a fun fact... I’m originally from the island of Puerto Rico, where we measure road distance in kilometers, and the speed signs are in miles per hour... talk about confusion.

It has legitimate historical reasons. We were under Spanish rule when first roads and streets were build, when they used kilometer markers. Then, with the advent of the automobile, it was necessary to install speed signs. At that time we were a US territory.

So, just as we were required to learn two languages, we were also required to learn the imperial and metric system...😃

Will certainly look confusing to tourists, but for us was our every day. We thrive in confusion I guess...😄
 

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@Gra, my spare wheel is also 19” (about 22” total diameter when collapsed). So I don’t think you’ll have any issues fitting that sub with an appropriate box.
 

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When I installed the RF subwoofer, that left about a 11mm gap between the top of subwoofer rubber suspension to bottom of the floor lid. The XMAX of the RF subwoofer is 14.2mm, therefore, I was worried about potential collision between the subwoofer cone and the floor lid, which would eventually damage the subwoofer.

I explored a few options... (1) raise the trunk floor an additional 1/4" (it was already raised 1/4" previously) for a total of 1/2" over OEM height; or (2) make the sub box rabbet 1/2" deeper.

I decided to try the easier solution first (option 1), even as I was thinking it was not going to be the tightest solution. So, raising the floor a total of 1/2" (adding 1/4" shim to the existing 1/4" shim) will increase the gap to 17mm, which will provide a 2.8mm margin from XMAX.

I removed the 1/4” shims and installed 1/2” shims under the silver hooks you can see in the photo. That sets the height of the whole floor, raising it a total of 1/2” (12.7mm).

After I secured everything, it didn’t look as bad as I thought. No visible gaps. The only thing that was concerning me was the buckling of the center of the lid, under load. To solve that, I installed two layers of sound insulation at the edge of the lid closest to the trunk door... (see last photo). The other concern was that I had to disengage the two side support bars from the trunk trim, but with the lid closed is not noticeable, and even with the lid open is barely noticeable.

238843



You can only notice the difference if you know is there. I asked my wife if she noticed anything different or strange about my trunk, and she was oblivious. She didn’t notice, until I told her, then she said... oh! and quickly lost interest... :).

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This is the edge of the lid closest to the trunk door, and how it looks from the side. You can see is higher than the trim, but is not bothersome. There is no visible gap, where you could see through, when the lid is closed.

238845



This is where I installed 2 layers of 9.5mm sound insulation. Now the lid, with the sound insulator, rest on the edge of the opening, with no buckling under load, and also added some structural compression strength to the lid, when closed.

238846



I was not able to install the grille, and I don’t feel I need it (I think I will be returning the it to Crutchfield). To be able to install the grille, I needed to raise the floor a minimum of 7/8” (not happening).

I’m not willing to raise the floor any more than it is, as more than 1/2” will be noticeable. And I really want to avoid having to modify the box. So, this is a good compromise, and my OCD side is kind of agreeing.

Who knows, maybe over the Summer I'll tackle the box modification and lower the floor again, but not now.
 

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Santirx, in the land of Oz those who are old enough were schooled in the imperial world of 'everything' due to some bloke called 'James Cook' having struck a flag in a beach some years ago. But in the early 70's the light became brighter in the metric world and after changing to decimal currency in 1966 we then followed with a full swap to metric everything (except TV screen sizes and a few other hangers on).

The feasibility work I did proved the job can be done. Noting your detailed comments above, I am surprised your spare is a 19" unless you have PCCB or a PP, they are all 18". Nevertheless, from my 'cardboard cut outs' I note there is not really enough space for a top mounted speaker so I went the route of a face mounted speaker (a la original factory) as the best solution and later after trolling the enormous body of work contained in this thread, did also note that the 'giant red brake caliper' (@phroenips) also used the same solution. I intend to make mine from 18mm MDF and to employ a more 'straight lined' approach which should net me around 19-20 litres of volume, as I am using the lower free space in front of the battery.

I note both you and Ge0 have had fun with 'adjustable deck height' floorboards, but I am not one to follow that path. I like the maximum storage space I can get and further my storage system tie downs are not the simple four eye job but the factory sliding rack adjustable version - yes they could be raised if absolutely necessary.

Having done the homework I went shopping yesterday, yes I returned to those dimly lit rooms of blue lit Mac's and managed to avoid being seduced by the lights and sounds long enough to walk out the front door carrying a couple of lovely products.:cool:

238862

Yes, it's a Rockford Fosgate in a box (RF T1S1X10). :oops: They had no T1S2-10's and explained there is a long waiting list as they come from the good old USofA and not China, so I could take the 'one in a box' at a good price instead. I managed to get a good deal on the M One + RF double which included a trade in on my new in a box Helix SDMI25 I had bought before I found out it would not work with my PCM4 system.

So this boy is going to be busy in the workshop making boxes and rewiring the M One in place of the Toro. Heat wave is coming this weekend too, just in time ... Hmm, I think the M One should work nicely with the sub, you even get a remote volume switch if you want to be really 'foolly sick man - doof, DOOF'. o_O

Cheers, G
 

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Well, @Gra, as always, you are absolutely correct. My spare tire is 18”. I’m not sure where I got that it was 19”. I think I measured the rim quickly at some point and that’s the measurement that stuck in my head. But checking more closely... see photo.

238874


Now, talking about the RF sub, I had been very impressed at the quality and clarity of the bass. I think you will be impressed.

The good thing is that you don’t have to wait until you build the custom box. You can actually test it in that box...
 
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