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REMOVING THE D-PILLAR TRIM (and rear surround speaker) - PART 1:

Pull fuse/relay panel off. Very easy to do, just pull through the indented location.

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Disconnect the leveling switch, if you have air suspension:

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Should look like this:

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I found it easier to start here (see number 1). There are metal clips in each of these locations. Pull easy and carefully in that order with a trim remover. If you put too much pressure and yank the thing off, the clips can fly off the plastic and then they are very difficult to find.... You don't have to remove this trim completely, just loosen it up from point 1 and up.

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This is a photo of the metal clip. They slide out very easily as shown by the arrow.

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The D-pillar trim is held in place by the bottom trim and a single clip and by 2 clips at the top. Lets address clip # 4 at the bottom of D-Pillar trim first. Pull carefully (same situation here, if you yank the thing off, the clip can fly off the plastic (that happened to me the first time).

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Now, lets address clip # 5 on the top back side of the trim. Again, pull carefully. Once you pull this clip, you can have partial access to the speaker. You can at least connect and disconnect it if you like, but that is all you can do at this point.

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Now, lets go to the other sider. Remove this trim as shown, carefully. It should come out easier, there are no metal clips on this one. Once you remove this trim, the D-Pillar trim should free from the bottom.

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Again, no need to remove this piece completely, just enough to have clearance to remove the d-pillar trim.

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More in the next post....
 

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REMOVING THE D-PILLAR TRIM - PART 2:

Now to the 6th and final metal clip (remember, no yanking). The clip is located at the top portion of the D-Pillar. This is the one you need to be most careful with.

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Now, you will also need to remove the seat belt top trim. The D-Pillar trim and this cover will come out as a unit. Just pull with trim removal tool and should come out easily.

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Pull he trim as shown.

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Disconnect the speaker:

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Then the trim should come out

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You may be able to remove the D-Pillar trim without having to remove that seat belt trim, but it was easier for me to take it out as well.

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Put it all back in reverse order...

Hoping these are @Ge0 quality instructions....
 

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SURROUND SPEAKERS SPECS:

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Depth compressing the foam gasket

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Holes center to center:

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Depth without compressing the foam gasket:

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OK... not impedance... DC Resistance around 4-ohms.

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Discussion Starter #84
I finally got my midranges but was disappointed. The middle midrange was damaged in shipment. Crap. Need to reach out to Madisound to see how they want to fix.
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It's hard to see in this photo but there is a split in the cone the left and a dent to the right.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #85
An edit. After removing the back door panel again, there is no need to remove the top trim. Only two screws. One located behind the handle and one located behind the bottom light. Is easier than front door.




For front door you’ll have to remove the top trim, and there are 3 screws. One behind the trim, one behind the door handle and one behind the bottom light.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I like this guys style :).

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #86

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Discussion Starter #87
REMOVING THE D-PILLAR TRIM - PART 2:

Now to the 5th and final metal clip (remember, no yanking). The clip is located at the top portion of the D-Pillar. This is the one you need to be most careful with.

View attachment 231312


Pull he trim as shown.

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Disconnect the speaker:

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Then the trim should come out

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You may be able to remove the D-Pillar trim without having to remove that seat belt trim, but it was easier for me to take it out as well.

View attachment 231307


View attachment 231308


Put it all back in reverse order...

Hoping these are @Ge0 quality instructions....
Padewan, you have made Jedi Master proud 🌈
 

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That Sucks Ge0, I can tell you that the box my M12 came in left a lot to be desired.....thankfully it was not damaged ..... the box was woeful......looked like a return item !!!!

Did you get 2 installed anyways ?
 

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Discussion Starter #89
So my other test subject came in :




Actually a pretty cool looking sub. The logo on the dust cap is slightly cheesy (wish it was matte black) but I can live with that. It will be hidden.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #90
So here is an interesting experiment. I was attempting to evaluate the 10TW3-D4 using the Bose stock subwoofer amp:











The stock sub is 4 ohm. The 10TW3-D4 is 2 ohm. I would have thunk this would produce a higher output. I was wrong. The Bose amp pushed the sub. But not as hard as the stock front midbasses. I took these plots over and over again. They all came back the same. The midbasses out-power the sub! Either the stock sub amp sensed the low impedance load and backed off. Or the stock sub does not do schitt in contributing to total output.




Blue is with sub connected. Red is with sub disconnected and front midbass only. Hardly a difference if at all.

My next step will be to replace the Bose stock Sub amplifier and to replace with something more substantial. Hopefully more on this coming soon.

Ge0
 

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That is interesting Ge0.
As small as that OEM Bose amp is......it has a lot of technology in it...fairly advanced. Maybe it is load detecting as you stated.....
 

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Discussion Starter #92
So, you know your amps DSP software is old when:




Seriously. I had to wipe the old DSP settings from my last vehicle. I don't intend on using the DSP inside the DC 500.1 on my next install. That will be taken care of by a newer processor. This sucker will just be used as a straight amp with enough muscle to push one or two subs.

Per recommendation above, I am putting the Bose sub back together to take readings off it. Something doesn't seem right with my findings yesterday. I did install these quick disconnects though. I will be using the harness into this amp for line level audio (yellow and purple) plus a remote turn on feed (white) for now.



Oh, and I stand corrected about my earlier observation. This subs coil Re is 2.5ohm +/- 1ohm. Therefore its average impedance will probably be somewhere between 2 and 3 ohm. This is just like the measurements of the JL 10TW3-D4 I just tried out. I will try to do some testing tomorrow before it gets too darn hot to be outside.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #93
That is interesting Ge0.
As small as that OEM Bose amp is......it has a lot of technology in it...fairly advanced. Maybe it is load detecting as you stated.....
Actually, I made a mistake. The Bose sub is a similar impedance as the JL Audio 10TW3-D4 (2 to 3 ohm). I suspect what is happening is that you get a little bit of loading / cabin gain with the Bose sub recessed into the floor and pointing to the back wall of the car. I am going to put it back in and test tomorrow. I also suspect that the Bose sub will not add a bunch of amplitude to low frequency content. But, with the ported sub it may extend response below 40Hz.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #94
That Sucks Ge0, I can tell you that the box my M12 came in left a lot to be desired.....thankfully it was not damaged ..... the box was woeful......looked like a return item !!!!

Did you get 2 installed anyways ?
I'm focusing on subwoofers for now. I bought two of them to compare (about $350ea) and have a limited time window to return the one I don't want. Will try the midrange install next weekend. I need to create some adapters to hold them in the doors + have some sound deadening material on the way.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #95
OK. I did a lot of experimentation today with sub location in 90 degree heat with 80% humidity (it has been 45 degrees here lately). This was brutal. To level the playing field I kept the factory sub and adjusted position and conditions within the vehicle to measure affect. All measurements were made in the drivers position with the microphone midway between ear positions. The idea was top study vehicle dynamics, not just equipment. The only unknown is what funky filters the Bose Factory DSP placed on the signal prior to amplification. In my opinion, if they did EQ the sub they screwed up massively.

First off. No sub installed vs. with factory sub. Note, the Macan has 8" woofers mounted in the front doors with no high pass filter:


You can see that the factory sub does not add low end. But, it does make a few funky boosts. Most notably at 80Hz. Also notice the massive suck out at 60Hz.

Next, here is the factory sub with the rear cargo deck open. Notice the attenuation's at 80Hz and 100Hz that occur when the cargo lid is open. It's like a loading affect is minimized.











Now, move the factory sub from stock location to an up firing position under the cargo floor. This is similar to implementations by a number of people who have modified this vehicle. As it turns out, the frequency response is almost identical to the factory mounted location:







Strange things happen when you fold the seats down:




Frequency response amplitude boosts slightly but shifts up in frequency by about 5Hz.

More in the next post...

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Now I will move the factory sub above the hidden cargo floor and aim it all over the place.


Similar to the sub firing up under the floor but now sitting on top as if mounted in a baffle to directly fire into the cabin:




Interesting, the peak at 80Hz is reduced significantly. However, there is a significant dip created at 100Hz.




Mimicking a floor mounted sub pointed backwards:


This orientation yields a slight boost at 80Hz over the up-firing orientation. Also, the dip at 100Hz still exists but is less pronounced:




Mimicking a right side firing subwoofer that would be mounted in the left side panel:



Results are very similar to the rear firing sub orientation. Slightly less boost at 80Hz and dip at 100Hz:




Mimicking a left side mounted sub firing right. Cable lengths prevented me from moving all the way over to the right:



Results are within 1dB of right firing sub orientation. This is within measurement to measurement error:



There are a few commonalities no matter how the sub is oriented:



1.) The sub adds no low frequency extension beyond what the front doors provide.
2.) Orienting the sub differently does not add any low frequency extension.
3.) No matter how the sub is oriented there is always a suck out at 60Hz.
4.) Boost at 80Hz and dip at 100Hz varies with sub orientation
5.) Installing the subwoofer under the cargo hatch floor adds bass boost. As a matter of fact mounting under the cargo floor eliminates the dip at 100Hz.
6.) Folding the rear seats down and opening up the hatch to the front cabin harms bass response.

For sure Bose is altering vehicle frequency response through equalization. Whether or not they did a good job at this is not the point. The purpose for this exercise was to see how different subwoofer orientations impact frequency response of a known system whether it be perfect or not. It is very apparent that sub position does impact lower frequency response to varying degrees.

I also suspect that Bose is allowing the frequency range of the front woofers to overlap the subwoofer to a large extent. This may be the reason behind the peaks and valley's seen in response as the sub is moved to different positions or is mounted under the cargo floor.

Next up I will place an aftermarket sub and amplifier in the vehicle to see if I can improve bass response further.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #97
No, this is not my final install. Just updating my test mule to see what sub I like:














I have a bit more power on tap now than I had with the stock Bose subwoofer amp. I did some preliminary gain setting and experimentation last night before shutting things down for the day. All I can say is ****! Now that's what real bass sounds like in this car. I did take some REW plots. However, as luck would have in my PC Blue Screened before I could save them off. Some driver quirk when disconnecting my USB audio interface...


Hopefully more on this topic this evening.


Ge0
 

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Amazing Ge0 !
So many telling measurements. Guess we always knew the OEM sub was not great...here is the proof. I am wondering however if the RF sub so many have loaded is an improvement on what you measured with the stocker....hope so ;)

I have the rear “ledge” out of the car completly.....back seats upright, did this so the back was open. Are you saying it is better with the ledge installed ?

if I could find a simple P&P drop in for that location that rocked.....I would do it. I am sure others would as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Amazing Ge0 !
So many telling measurements. Guess we always knew the OEM sub was not great...here is the proof. I am wondering however if the RF sub so many have loaded is an improvement on what you measured with the stocker....hope so ;)

I have the rear “ledge” out of the car completly.....back seats upright, did this so the back was open. Are you saying it is better with the ledge installed ?

if I could find a simple P&P drop in for that location that rocked.....I would do it. I am sure others would as well.
Come to think of it, I did not test with the rear ledge removed. Only with the spare tire cargo lid open / closed and with the seat back open / closed. The affect was more pronounced with the cargo lid open. This created a 5dB cancellation at 100hZ to 120Hz range. I definitely don't find this desirable. Flipping the seat down created an overall 1 to 2 dB reduction in upper bass response. This is not significant. I imagine removing the rear deck lid would behave similar.

Ge0
 
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