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What software did you use for the model? Looks like you were able to throw that together pretty quick.

Ge0
Autodesk Inventor Fusion for MacOS...


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Well ,thanks @Santirx and @GeO for your comments. I have been diving into the rabbit holes of the Infernal net these last few days trying to get information that might assist me. As Santirx suggested it would appear that Porsche fitted the PCM 4.0 for 2017 or at least at the very end of 2016 (probably models for the 2017 year). I found the only confirmation of this from this Forum or by searching the web, I certainly didn't find it anywhere from Porsche as it is not listed in sales info, the Driver's Handbook or anywhere on it's own PCM electronic brain! Frustrating that.:mad:

As GeO then offered, if it's a PCM 4.0 it doesn't talk MOST 125, it talks MOST 150 and only that - so a MOST 125 from Helix is a waste. NAV-TV purports to sell a MOST 150 device that might work, but when you back search on the hookup/tech data you are fed with the usual extreme lack of detail, other than you delete the onboard amp in the hook-up - interesting that, so of the 34 connections going to the current Bose amp, 21 odd are tied to power/speaker outputs, so what about the other 14 connections, what are they for? I chased down the details from mObridge, who are an Aussie company located in Melbourne and yes, they do have a MOST 150 adapter available - but it only fits that other Stuttgart limo, with the three pointed star on the bonnet, nothing else is available.

As mentioned before, I am extremely reluctant to cut and shut speakers wires from the current Bose in order to line feed an external amp, it gets very messy very easily and as GeO highlights, your only manipulating signal that Mr Bose has already had a big hand in changing. So what's left, I guess I could pursue the external boost for the sub a la Toro MR2, it's seems to give some results but would mean another Fleabay buy from across your side of the pond. But, on the Toro, in your cases you have hooked it to the 'pre out' level that feeds your extra sub amp mounted on your sub. In my case, I do not have that external sub amp, it's built in, so I would be feeding the signal at line level, will the Toro accept a line level input?
 

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Well ,thanks @Santirx and @GeO for your comments. I have been diving into the rabbit holes of the Infernal net these last few days trying to get information that might assist me. As Santirx suggested it would appear that Porsche fitted the PCM 4.0 for 2017 or at least at the very end of 2016 (probably models for the 2017 year). I found the only confirmation of this from this Forum or by searching the web, I certainly didn't find it anywhere from Porsche as it is not listed in sales info, the Driver's Handbook or anywhere on it's own PCM electronic brain! Frustrating that.:mad:

As GeO then offered, if it's a PCM 4.0 it doesn't talk MOST 125, it talks MOST 150 and only that - so a MOST 125 from Helix is a waste. NAV-TV purports to sell a MOST 150 device that might work, but when you back search on the hookup/tech data you are fed with the usual extreme lack of detail, other than you delete the onboard amp in the hook-up - interesting that, so of the 34 connections going to the current Bose amp, 21 odd are tied to power/speaker outputs, so what about the other 14 connections, what are they for? I chased down the details from mObridge, who are an Aussie company located in Melbourne and yes, they do have a MOST 150 adapter available - but it only fits that other Stuttgart limo, with the three pointed star on the bonnet, nothing else is available.

As mentioned before, I am extremely reluctant to cut and shut speakers wires from the current Bose in order to line feed an external amp, it gets very messy very easily and as GeO highlights, your only manipulating signal that Mr Bose has already had a big hand in changing. So what's left, I guess I could pursue the external boost for the sub a la Toro MR2, it's seems to give some results but would mean another Fleabay buy from across your side of the pond. But, on the Toro, in your cases you have hooked it to the 'pre out' level that feeds your extra sub amp mounted on your sub. In my case, I do not have that external sub amp, it's built in, so I would be feeding the signal at line level, will the Toro accept a line level input?
Check this link: MOST 150 Audio Output | Stereo Upgrade | Vi-Products



234607



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Discussion Starter #644
Gra. I would strongly suggest the NAV-TV route. However, if you don't want to go that way the TORO MR2 does accept speaker level inputs.

Ge0
 

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Gents, thanks again for the advice. Yes, @Santirx, I have been all over that NAV website and indeed it looks like the only viable solution for someone looking to have the Audison APF8.9/AP1D hook up and control like you have. There are a number of concerns though:
1. Need to be the 'first player', there's no other experts to fall back on who have done a PCM4 set up on the forum.
2. No wiring adapter available means pulling and/or cutting into the existing loom in order to feed the speakers (unlike your PCM3 system).
3. Currently undetermined pin out configuration from existing Bose amp - yes, I know the pin numbers and colours of 34 wires but they aren't all speaker or power wires, so what do the remaining 12-14 wires do? If you need to remove the Bose amp as NAV indicate, what other functionality goes with it (mobile phone bluetooth, Nav functions etc)?
4. Investment versus return - MOST 150, plus the two amps is circa $3k Aus, I would need to ensure it all worked out of the box, the MOST supplier is a very long way away from here.

First things first, I will follow up on the wiring and identify where each of the 38 pins goes, without that it's only going to be a Toro MR2 if I can find one! The rest might fall into place after that. :unsure:
 

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Gents, thanks again for the advice. Yes, @Santirx, I have been all over that NAV website and indeed it looks like the only viable solution for someone looking to have the Audison APF8.9/AP1D hook up and control like you have. There are a number of concerns though:
1. Need to be the 'first player', there's no other experts to fall back on who have done a PCM4 set up on the forum.
2. No wiring adapter available means pulling and/or cutting into the existing loom in order to feed the speakers (unlike your PCM3 system).
3. Currently undetermined pin out configuration from existing Bose amp - yes, I know the pin numbers and colours of 34 wires but they aren't all speaker or power wires, so what do the remaining 12-14 wires do? If you need to remove the Bose amp as NAV indicate, what other functionality goes with it (mobile phone bluetooth, Nav functions etc)?
4. Investment versus return - MOST 150, plus the two amps is circa $3k Aus, I would need to ensure it all worked out of the box, the MOST supplier is a very long way away from here.

First things first, I will follow up on the wiring and identify where each of the 38 pins goes, without that it's only going to be a Toro MR2 if I can find one! The rest might fall into place after that. :unsure:
I certainly understand. Good Luck! Let us know if and when can we provide further help.

I have to think there are others that have done upgrades here at the forum for 17+, but they may have had the basic CDR+ system, not the Bose.

I agree, that pinout/wire drawing is key.


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Gents, thanks again for the advice. Yes, @Santirx, I have been all over that NAV website and indeed it looks like the only viable solution for someone looking to have the Audison APF8.9/AP1D hook up and control like you have. There are a number of concerns though:
1. Need to be the 'first player', there's no other experts to fall back on who have done a PCM4 set up on the forum.
2. No wiring adapter available means pulling and/or cutting into the existing loom in order to feed the speakers (unlike your PCM3 system).
3. Currently undetermined pin out configuration from existing Bose amp - yes, I know the pin numbers and colours of 34 wires but they aren't all speaker or power wires, so what do the remaining 12-14 wires do? If you need to remove the Bose amp as NAV indicate, what other functionality goes with it (mobile phone bluetooth, Nav functions etc)?
4. Investment versus return - MOST 150, plus the two amps is circa $3k Aus, I would need to ensure it all worked out of the box, the MOST supplier is a very long way away from here.

First things first, I will follow up on the wiring and identify where each of the 38 pins goes, without that it's only going to be a Toro MR2 if I can find one! The rest might fall into place after that. :unsure:
I’m in the same PCM4 boat though haven’t pulled the trigger on the Nav TV yet. Here in the UK the Nav TV is £599, which is painful for a box that you hide away somewhere, though it does give a clean signal to work from.

I also have an Audison 5.9 which does the signal fixing and could avoid using the Nav TV. Going this way though does mean cutting a lot of wires, keeping the Bose in location and hoping that the DSP flattens the input signal well. Not exactly ideal but less expensive.

There is another post somewhere with a PCM4 Nav TV being used. I recall the fleebay connector that ships in the Leer jet and limo wasn’t used though and the the speaker cables were tapped into.

If you’re thinking of going down the DSP/amp route, cost aside, a 12 channel Helix would be the way to go over the Audison. The Audison’s 9 channels are quickly taken up if you’re thinking of using all of the speakers in a Bose spec Macan.

Looking forward to seeing how you proceed with this. Please update with a post. I’ll do the same if I get there before you.. 👍
 

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Following with OPERATION SUBWOOFER, just received an Audison APS-10D (thanks to @Draper for allowing me to buy his excess inventory...).



APS-8D and APS-10D side by side (the photo doesn’t do justice, as the 10” is noticeably bigger than the 8”):



The first thing I noticed is how much heavier the 10” subwoofer is. Wasn’t expecting that for 2” more.

Some more in the investigational phase.






The lid will close fine even with the grill, which is great!



Inside the mock cardboard box:







Working now on box design and constructability. Since I’ll be constructing the box out of MDF, I think I will be using a layer approach to accommodate the complex geometry.... more later.


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Discussion Starter #649
Following with OPERATION SUBWOOFER, just received an Audison APS-10D (thanks to @Draper for allowing me to buy his excess inventory...).



APS-8D and APS-10D side by side (the photo doesn’t do justice, as the 10” is noticeably bigger than the 8”):



The first thing I noticed is how much heavier the 10” subwoofer is. Wasn’t expecting that for 2” more.

Some more in the investigational phase.






The lid will close fine even with the grill, which is great!



Inside the mock cardboard box:







Working now on box design and constructability. Since I’ll be constructing the box out of MDF, I think I will be using a layer approach to accommodate the complex geometry.... more later.


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Note: You can loosen the spare tire wing nut and slide the tire forward about an inch. Then tighten the nut back down again.

Ge0
 

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Oh... that’s really cheap wine...

The Toro is really small compared to the Audison... half the size. Amazing how they can pack so much power in such small package...





In the process of installing the Audison AP1D now:









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I love this! I may stack an amp on the back of this bracket too! Thank you for the idea
 

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Discussion Starter #651
I have been in such a rush to get this sub enclosure done before cold weather sets in. I haven't had time to post. Anyway, nearing the end of this fabrication job. I sure hope this thing kicks as much a$$ as I designed it to.

Get supplies ready:


OK. Let's fiberglass the wooden shell with an outer layer of cloth that will wrap around it's strange contours. This is a twill cloth purchased from US Composites:


Staple it into place so it doesn't move around so much while applying resin:







Start dabbing in the resin








It took an hour and 32oz of resin to completely cover the first layer of this box. Now it's time to dry...

No, there is no problems with my butt. I learned this trick from Glassman a few years ago. Apply it liberally to your arms to close up pores. That way fibers don't get in. Also, apply it to your hands to make taking latex gloves on and off easy.



To be continued...

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #652
Now for some cleanup work now that the resin has dried.






This sucker came in real handy when cleaning up the edges:



Sand down sharp edges so I can handle the enclosure without getting pricked or cut.



Glue in one last cross brace to add strength.



Now prepare to glass the inside of the enclosure. Here I chose a bi-axial material from US composites. This is a cloth with mat fibers sewn into it.



Cut up some workable sizes in advance so you don't need to screw with cutting while your hands are all sticky and gooey from resin.



I found using this glass dish to be priceless. Lay a piece of material in, fully saturate it, then lay it on your work piece. Trust me. This is MUCH better than trying to wet the cloth out inside the work piece. You will add a little more resin onto the cloth once you lay it in. But, since it is already saturated you don't need to work as hard. Make sure you are wearing rubber gloves. Working the cloth in place by hand is a must to get it to lay flat. Use your brush to tamp out any air bubbles.



First 16oz of resin laid





To be continued...

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #653
More glassing and building up 4 layers:












All done laying fiberglass inside. Now take the cordless edge sander to knock down sharp edges inside the enclosure:



I decided to add Bondo Glass (short hair fibers) to the inside corners of the enclosure where the baffle meets the box. Just to further strengthen the bond. I also placed Bondo Glass over sections inside the enclosure where I cut out air bubbles and left pockets in the material.







I also added some dowel rods while I was at it to strengthen the baffle.


To be continued...

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #654
Now time to apply a finish to the outside to make it look nice and smooth.

I decided to use Evercoat body fillers because they are supposed to be far easier to sand than good old Bondo. I started with a quart of Rage at first but soon ran out. So then I bought a gallon of Rage Ultra.

NOTE: Make sure you knead and squeeze the hardener tube prior to use. Otherwise when you go to apply hardener a bunch of liquid will ooze out. You need cream not liquid. I found this out the hard way. My first layer took 2 days to dry vs. 20 minutes.

Sand Sand sand.




Applying the first batch:



Sanded down the first pass. However, there are some places that need more material. A 2nd coat will be needed.



The ultra goes on thicker than the Rage. However, it is self leveling to a degree which will make sanding easier.



Sanding down the 2nd coat really made the enclosure take shape and feel smooth. Note, I sanded the corners by hand to make sure my power sander did not remove too much material:



I forgot to take a photo. But, I glued the top step baffle on after the first sanding pass. I then feathered it in on the second body filler application.







I could have called it quits here. But, there were a few voids that were bothering me. So, one simple 3rd pass of filler. It was getting dark and cold. So, I will need to wait until tomorrow morning to sand this and finish it off.



Next up. Apply glazing putty to any remaining pin holes then prime and paint.

To be continued...

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #655 (Edited)
Following with OPERATION SUBWOOFER, just received an Audison APS-10D (thanks to @Draper for allowing me to buy his excess inventory...).



APS-8D and APS-10D side by side (the photo doesn’t do justice, as the 10” is noticeably bigger than the 8”):



The first thing I noticed is how much heavier the 10” subwoofer is. Wasn’t expecting that for 2” more.

Some more in the investigational phase.






The lid will close fine even with the grill, which is great!



Inside the mock cardboard box:







Working now on box design and constructability. Since I’ll be constructing the box out of MDF, I think I will be using a layer approach to accommodate the complex geometry.... more later.


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If you are going to do a stacked MDF build then I think you're going to need to use the lower space in the battery well for extra cabinet volume. The stacked MDF wall thickness will be roughly 3/4" which will reduce your inner cabinet volume size.

Edit: Remember, I raised my floor 1-1/2" to gain extra subwoofer cabinet volume.

Ge0
 

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If you are going to do a stacked MDF build then I think you're going to need to use the lower space in the battery well for extra cabinet volume. The stacked MDF wall thickness will be roughly 3/4" which will reduce your inner cabinet volume size.

Edit: Remember, I raised my floor 1-1/2" to gain extra subwoofer cabinet volume.

Ge0
Yes, I’ll consider this if I don’t reach required volume. I only need 12lt for the APS-10D, that’s much less that what you need for your monster sub. In my computer model, I was very close, and now I have a new model where I’m expanding the box a bit more to one of the laterals (in the photo, the top blue shade was planned, the one showing at that bottom is new addition). I’m also using a 1/2” flooring with 1/2” ribs (1”) to gain a bit more volume.

If I have to add into the hole, it will be an easy cut.

I have about 6 layers to go to get to 5.25”.

Using wood glue and a new brad nail gun (which I never had in my toolbox... bought for this project, and is fun...)



234721


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Next layer... I can’t believe it took me the full day to build 1-3/4” worth of height for my box. I ended up discarding two layers due to some field changes in the design, along with one mistake...




This one now shows the next layer floor (3/4”), which I will continue to build up with more open layers with only 3/4” along the full edge of the perimeter.





I think this is going to be a looong project...




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Next layer... I can’t believe it took me the full day to build 1-3/4” worth of height for my box. I ended up discarding two layers due to some field changes in the design, along with one mistake...




This one now shows the next layer floor (3/4”), which I will continue to build up with more open layers with only 3/4” along the full edge of the perimeter.





I think this is going to be a looong project...




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Long project but looking good so far (y)

You have decent router skills.

Ge0
 
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