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Santirx are you trying that Audison Sub ? Looks interesting......
I’m replacing the Toro-Tech audio sub amp with the Audison AP1D... to power the Audison APS 8D that I have in the Bose box.


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The AP1D is installed and sounds great. I have to say that the Toro-Tech amp, for the price, does a great job. But the AP1D does a better job at driving the Audison APS-8D. I’m not sure yet if is worth the $330 difference though... maybe. More testing necessary, but the very low frequencies sound more refined/defined to my ear. I need to hook up the REW and check.

I mounted the amp directly into the metal bracket. I made four small holes in the bracket and mounted on the back side. Very sturdy installation. I took this time to secure all wires better.

Yes @Ge0, I realize the toslink cable is too long (3ft). I did purchase an 18” one, which arrives tomorrow, and that should tidy up the installation.

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Discussion Starter #604
The AP1D is installed and sounds great. I have to say that the Toro-Tech amp, for the price, does a great job. But the AP1D does a better job at driving the Audison APS-8D. I’m not sure yet if is worth the $330 difference though... maybe. More testing necessary, but the very low frequencies sound more refined/defined to my ear. I need to hook up the REW and check.

I mounted the amp directly into the metal bracket. I made four small holes in the bracket and mounted on the back side. Very sturdy installation. I took this time to secure all wires better.

Yes @Ge0, I realize the toslink cable is too long (3ft). I did purchase an 18” one, which arrives tomorrow, and that should tidy up the installation.

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Quick question. Where did you find that power cable? Nice job with the wiring BTW...

Ge0
 

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Quick question. Where did you find that power cable? Nice job with the wiring BTW...

Ge0
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS8ZGXA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_tkuvFbNT4E777

I did the same thing you did... but used a 4AWG to come out of the battery and split into two sets of 8AWG wires using a fuse block.

Used these ferrules: Ruikarhop 200PCS (AWG 8 6 4 2) 2-8 Gauge Wire Ferrules Kits Silver Plated Copper Crimp Connector Non Insulated Ferrules Pin Cord End Terminal: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089VTT9BK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MtuvFb91HGWQK

Please let me know if there is something wrong on this... from what you see.


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Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS8ZGXA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_tkuvFbNT4E777

I did the same thing you did... but used a 4AWG to come out of the battery and split into two sets of 8AWG wires using a fuse block.

Used these ferrules: Ruikarhop 200PCS (AWG 8 6 4 2) 2-8 Gauge Wire Ferrules Kits Silver Plated Copper Crimp Connector Non Insulated Ferrules Pin Cord End Terminal: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089VTT9BK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MtuvFb91HGWQK

Please let me know if there is something wrong on this... from what you see.


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Nope. I saw something at first but you fixed it after mounting the amps and securing the wires. You even wrapped them in cloth tape. One step I need to complete in the near future. Like I said, nice job.

Go back in a month or so and snug up your power connections. Those ferrules tend to relax a little and loosen up.

What did you use for a grounding point?

Ge0
 

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Nope. I saw something at first but you fixed it after mounting the amps and securing the wires. You even wrapped them in cloth tape. One step I need to complete in the near future. Like I said, nice job.

Go back in a month or so and snug up your power connections. Those ferrules tend to relax a little and loosen up.

What did you use for a grounding point?

Ge0
I used the main ground to the right of the battery, behind the subwoofer, near the bottom of the sub/battery compartment. I thought that was the most robust location.

234461



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New 18” optical cable is in. Tidy installation now.






I think I’m done with this mod. Am I done?

Nah.... now I want a larger subwoofer...


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A little note worth considering @GeO on your fantastic looking multi dimensional sub box. Hope you have left a little room in that long curving section for the spare tyre, it looks like yours has never been fitted to your car. What happens when you use the spare and then deflate it to put it away, it never goes back to that nice completely flat 'as new' shape again - the flat tread keeps a little of it larger circumference around the middle which makes it a little snug against the foam tool holders (too snug with a 19" spare and I ended up removing the foam tool holders). Hate to see all your good work come to a disgruntled look and loud expletive groan one day, when it comes to pack the recently used spare back into that snug home your created... :unsure:

There is some real dedicated audiophile work being performed on this forum, wondering where if ever it will slow to the point of being an accepted state or will it go on for many years to come keeping us edified and entertained? :)
 

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A little note worth considering @GeO on your fantastic looking multi dimensional sub box. Hope you have left a little room in that long curving section for the spare tyre, it looks like yours has never been fitted to your car. What happens when you use the spare and then deflate it to put it away, it never goes back to that nice completely flat 'as new' shape again - the flat tread keeps a little of it larger circumference around the middle which makes it a little snug against the foam tool holders (too snug with a 19" spare and I ended up removing the foam tool holders). Hate to see all your good work come to a disgruntled look and loud expletive groan one day, when it comes to pack the recently used spare back into that snug home your created... :unsure:

There is some real dedicated audiophile work being performed on this forum, wondering where if ever it will slow to the point of being an accepted state or will it go on for many years to come keeping us edified and entertained? :)
Maybe he can call AAA over his new system and they will understand what he says? "Fix my flat."
 

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Discussion Starter #611
A little note worth considering @GeO on your fantastic looking multi dimensional sub box. Hope you have left a little room in that long curving section for the spare tyre, it looks like yours has never been fitted to your car. What happens when you use the spare and then deflate it to put it away, it never goes back to that nice completely flat 'as new' shape again - the flat tread keeps a little of it larger circumference around the middle which makes it a little snug against the foam tool holders (too snug with a 19" spare and I ended up removing the foam tool holders). Hate to see all your good work come to a disgruntled look and loud expletive groan one day, when it comes to pack the recently used spare back into that snug home your created... :unsure:

There is some real dedicated audiophile work being performed on this forum, wondering where if ever it will slow to the point of being an accepted state or will it go on for many years to come keeping us edified and entertained? :)
I have 18" wheels so hopefully its not that big of an issue like it was for you. Also, I left just over 1" (that's 25mm to you) of clearance between the spare tyre and the sub box to prevent vibration.

Worse case I could always get out the grinder and cut the box down to size if it still doesn't fit :).

Ge0
 

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@Ge0 I think you win the prize for the longest, most involved thread in any pcar forum for non-performance related items, world wide. You'd get the Oscar.
I fully concur and endorse! Great job @Ge0!


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Regarding polarity: After the procedure I completed to determine polarity aurally, I still had doubts and decided to check physically.

I checked continuity between amplifier connector and each of the speaker connectors with a multimeter to identify true (+) and (-).


Found that my initial setup was close but not quite.

The wiring to the center was reversed, and because I was using that as a reference, it threw some things off.

In essence I had many of the speakers OK, but (-), which should be OK. But there were some that weren’t aligning with that.

I found that the Center Channel, the Passenger Front Door Woofer, and the Driver’s Rear Door had all reversed wiring, physically... this is when following the manual’s pin-out diagram for connection.





Net, for my case, when using physical verification, the only polarity that resulted in a relative change in relation to others was the center channel. I changed polarities through software.

As I continued to listen after the initial setup, I realized that there was actually too much unnatural sound coming and dominating that center channel. Hence why I wanted to check.

Audio is more natural now...

And now I need to repeat REW setup.


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Just my luck... I purchased the Audison AP1D sub amplifier 2 weeks ago, arrived last week and installed over the weekend.

Then Audison decides to release the AP F1D... this week... (or maybe last week)...

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Discussion Starter #618
The AP1D is plenty for driving a single sub. You have the dual 4ohm model right? The amp can deliver up to 500W to that sub. IMO that's a little overkill. You made the right choice whether you decide to go to a 10" or stay with the 8".

However, if you were to ditch your spare tire we could set you up with dual 12's :)

Ge0
 

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The AP1D is plenty for driving a single sub. You have the dual 4ohm model right? The amp can deliver up to 500W to that sub. IMO that's a little overkill. You made the right choice whether you decide to go to a 10" or stay with the 8".

Ge0
You are right. That’s what I figured... also, the smaller size was better for my installation.


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You are right. That’s what I figured... also, the smaller size was better for my installation.


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I made a similar step down in power ratio and don't miss a thing.

Ge0
 
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