Porsche Macan Forum banner

421 - 440 of 467 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
The last few days I had been working my butt off.

Pre-wire my amp board. Crimp on smaller ferrules.





Yep, working at my kitchen table in the rain.



I purchased a mating connector for the main amp harness. I decided to splice into it by using these Amazon butt splices that contain adhesive and solder. If I had to do this again I would prefer to solder wires and cover with heat shrink. I don't trust these splices 100%.





Here is the vehicle harness mating connector I purchased. This saved me from hacking into the factory harness. But, required more splices.



Bolting in numerous connections with crimped ferrules.



Bundling all of the splices. I wrapped each splice in cloth tape just to be safe. I found a few instances where wires wanted to poke through the plastic heat shrink.



Strapping back un-used connections on the mating harness.



Fully assembled amp board


Ge0
This looks great! Was it difficult to figure out the wiring in the adapter? Or was it just painful, or not at all?

Did you use the wiring colors or did you just figured out the pin numbering against diagram?

This is something I have not done with my adapter. Just tested it back then, and it went back to its bag waiting for the, what I can assume now, is my lost amplifier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #422 (Edited)
This looks great! Was it difficult to figure out the wiring in the adapter? Or was it just painful, or not at all?

Did you use the wiring colors or did you just figured out the pin numbering against diagram?

This is something I have not done with my adapter. Just tested it back then, and it went back to its bag waiting for the, what I can assume now, is my lost amplifier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Throw out all data sent with the connector. All the labels are wrong. They are only relevant to an older amp. Our amp uses the same connector but the pinning is different.

Look at your amps main connector. You'll notice numbers are printed on the connector. There are two rows to be concerned with. Row 1 is pin 1 to 10. Row 2 is pins 11 to 22. You need to use the wiring diagram we have for the amp to match up with wire locations on the connector. Its fairly easy once you get started. I can help with this once you are ready to start wiring yourself.

Look at the diagram. Yellow arrow points to wiring for the rear doors that I am not using at the time. I may in the future. The red arrow points to a bundle of wires that I will never use (factory sub wiring, microphone for active noise control, etc.)
233275



Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #423
Unbelievable....the end is near !
It’s gonna rock !

Geo, Where did you find that cloth tape.....I been looking for that stuff :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
For instances where you need better insulation / abrasion resistance:

For instances where you just want to dress a bundle of wires and make them look neat and tidy:


Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #424
Not too much of an update today. I have a lot to learn about the Helix DSP software.


Tidied up the remaining wiring:



Start up the system:



Let's start configuring



Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Looks remarkable @Ge0. Very professional.

I hope mine look and sound as clean as yours.

I have been contacting the vendor of my amplifier for 3 days now, to see if they can locate it. I have not heard from them yet. The amplifier was supposed to arrive on Monday, but DHL have not posted any update since July 10, when the package was somewhere in Germany and ready to be transported to US.

I have opened a case in eBay, and they'll have until tomorrow to respond. Otherwise I will cancel this order, get my refund back and start all over again :(.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #430
Looks remarkable @Ge0. Very professional.

I hope mine look and sound as clean as yours.

I have been contacting the vendor of my amplifier for 3 days now, to see if they can locate it. I have not heard from them yet. The amplifier was supposed to arrive on Monday, but DHL have not posted any update since July 10, when the package was somewhere in Germany and ready to be transported to US.

I have opened a case in eBay, and they'll have until tomorrow to respond. Otherwise I will cancel this order, get my refund back and start all over again :(.
Sent you a PM...

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #431
Absolutely remarkable how loud and clean this little 8 channel amp can play. Crystal clear with 0% tuning so far.

Ge0
This is coming from a guy who had this in his last vehicle:
233300


233301


233302


Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #432
HOLD ON A MOMENT... An independent lab offered to Klippel test my MW182's. Change of plans. I'm going to pull them out and send for test before I put any hours on them. Rather, I will try something slightly different first. But, need to prep them for use.


Added speaker leads and gaskets:









Now add silicone goop to seal between rings:









Let these dry over night then mount in car tomorrow. I was going to spend my next 2 days sound deadning my doors anyway. May as well swap mid-bass drivers while I'm at it. Then the lab can have my Dyns for a few weeks to do their mad scientist stuff.

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
The last few days I had been working my butt off.

Pre-wire my amp board. Crimp on smaller ferrules.





Yep, working at my kitchen table in the rain.



I purchased a mating connector for the main amp harness. I decided to splice into it by using these Amazon butt splices that contain adhesive and solder. If I had to do this again I would prefer to solder wires and cover with heat shrink. I don't trust these splices 100%.





Here is the vehicle harness mating connector I purchased. This saved me from hacking into the factory harness. But, required more splices.



Bolting in numerous connections with crimped ferrules.



Bundling all of the splices. I wrapped each splice in cloth tape just to be safe. I found a few instances where wires wanted to poke through the plastic heat shrink.



Strapping back un-used connections on the mating harness.



Fully assembled amp board


Ge0
where did you pick up the harness connector from? am I able to use something like this with my PCM base setup with aftermarket speakers? I guess I'm a little lost on the direction with adding the Helix with the SDMI w/ your Bose system vs a PCM base system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #434
where did you pick up the harness connector from? am I able to use something like this with my PCM base setup with aftermarket speakers? I guess I'm a little lost on the direction with adding the Helix with the SDMI w/ your Bose system vs a PCM base system.
My harness connector is specific to Bose amplifiers. This gives me access to the vehicles speaker leads. One may exist for your PCM amplifier. You can search eBay for a solution. That's what Santirx did to find the Bose connector.

The SDMI is only required for Bose / Burmester stereo options that provide signal to the amp via fiber optic cable. Your PCM should provide a LINE LEVEL signal to the amplifier. That is what you will use for input.

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #435
So I worked on my passenger door today:

Going to install these slim little sexy Italian suckers.



The Porsche doors already had sizable strips of CLD installed on the outer door skin. I went over it with another layer of this guys stuff. Rumor has it, the stuff is kind of good.







Installed some Butyl rope to fill the remaining gaps in the crash bar.



The only place on the door that resonated heavily with mid-bass impact was this plastic access panel. I didn't have materials on hand to craft a new access panel out of PVC board so just sealedit up with CLD sheets. I noticed a significant reduction in vibration playing bass heavy notes on the door speakers so let it be for now. The doors wiring did vibrate pretty good though.



So, use some sticky back closed cell foam to hold those wires down.





Oh, and I installed a smaller / lighter mid-bass to check it out. The Dynaudio MW82's are going off for analysis...




Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Some deadening today...too. All doors... Tried to follow your photos here, but I'm sure I didn't do as well. In any case, the sound is much better. Reduced vibration significantly at doors, which is fine for me. When I close the doors now, they even sound different... nicer... more solid (when closing). Does that happened to you as well?








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #437 (Edited)
So I finished deadening my doors today:

Inner door skin:

Apply 2 layers of CLD inside. Apply generous layer outside to anything that will vibrate:



Secure loose harnesses with closed cell foam:














Job complete. No loose rattling harnesses on inner door. Air leaks plugged up. Floppy plastic pieces covered up in CLD sheet to make them more rigid. Good enough for now.


To be continued:

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #438
Door card / trim.

Did the same for left and right. Similar theme. dampen anything that squeaked or rattled.

Peel back factory felt



The factory BOSE grill was sqeaky as heck. Each heat staked rivet was loose. I covered everything I could in butyl rope to dampen vibration. The end result was pure silence when you press on the speaker grill. Far better than the squeaky mess it was.







Large open flat surfaces like the back of the cup holders resonate like mad when bass is playing. So, I dampened them up too.



Since the midrange is mounted to the door trim panel I wanted to dampen the region surrounding it too. With midrange blaring I am sure the trim resonates along with it. So, tame it down.



Go throughout the door trim panel and secure loose wires.





Totally deaden the air space around the midrange and try to isolate it from midbass.





Put felt back and prepare to re-install:


Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #439 (Edited)
I bought this little LED grabber tool at Harbor Freight that saves a lot of hassle replacing recessed screws. Sorry if the focus is off. I had been working on the car for 12 hours in the rain and my mind was fried.



Ge0
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #440 (Edited)
Finally, I finished my tweeter install. Not sure if this was required but thought it would be a good idea anyway. I placed a bunch of closed cell foam around the tweeter body before putting the grill back on. I figured the foam may dampen any back reflections. We'll see...



Ge0
 
421 - 440 of 467 Posts
Top