Porsche Macan Forum banner

401 - 420 of 467 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
OK @Ge0, here you go:

{(+)Hertz / (+)AP2} vs {(+)Hertz / (-)AP2}:

To note... it was very difficult to try to match volume level after doing this measurement afterwards and trying to compare to a previous measurement. I did the best I could, but assuming we can draw some conclusions here. Peak at 500Hz moved to 600Hz. Peak at 1200Hz tamed. Peak at 2200Hz still there, not as big (a little bit tamed).

I may need to do this again under same conditions.

Sound to my ear is still good.

Thoughts?

233181
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Little things tend to take hours to complete. I still needed a good way to secure my sub amp. This would be the last little bit of fabrication I needed before I pull the trigger and complete the system (for now).

A guy came out of nowhere on the Macan Forum and asked why I wasn't using the 6mm stud on the bottom of my battery compartment to help secure my sub amp. What stud? Turns out it was hidden under this plastic cap:
View attachment 233153


I could make a bracket that bolts onto that sucker:
View attachment 233154

View attachment 233155



View attachment 233156

View attachment 233158

View attachment 233157


Then there was one. And then there were more:






Amp fits tight as a glove. It ain't going anywhere:



In retrospect I need to buy some sexier looking hardware and fasteners to give this a polished look. But for now all is good. Need to pre-program my main amp tonight and create a wiring harness for it to interface to the vehicle. But, that's about. it. Almost ready to fire the system up.

Ge0
Yes!(y) You were listening, utilising what's there is a much better choice than JB weld, because it can be undone a lot easier and it leaves an opportunity for your next project which will probably be bolting a Mini Moog in the same space. Currently as you note, from a fabricators point of view, there is a little to be desired... :unsure: :cool:

Keep it coming, I am still graphically challenged by @Santirx though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #403 (Edited)
OK @Ge0, here you go:

{(+)Hertz / (+)AP2} vs {(+)Hertz / (-)AP2}:

To note... it was very difficult to try to match volume level after doing this measurement afterwards and trying to compare to a previous measurement. I did the best I could, but assuming we can draw some conclusions here. Peak at 500Hz moved to 600Hz. Peak at 1200Hz tamed. Peak at 2200Hz still there, not as big (a little bit tamed).

I may need to do this again under same conditions.

Sound to my ear is still good.

Thoughts?

View attachment 233181
Sorry, I should have been more clear. Try leaving the AP2 polarity alone and reverse polarity on the Hertz driver.

I think your purple graph needs to be bumped up 5dB for a good comparison. The bump at 500Hz moved to 600Hz and increased in amplitude.

Also, why do you wire them in series? Have you tried wiring them parallel?

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #404
Yes!(y) You were listening, utilising what's there is a much better choice than JB weld, because it can be undone a lot easier and it leaves an opportunity for your next project which will probably be bolting a Mini Moog in the same space. Currently as you note, from a fabricators point of view, there is a little to be desired... :unsure: :cool:

Keep it coming, I am still graphically challenged by @Santirx though!
Yes. Thank you for the tip. The other two plastic studs to either side of that cavity are fixed. So, I assumed the middle one next to the battery strap bolt was the same.

You have me thinking now. I bet I could fit another amp down there :).

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,914 Posts
Yes. Thank you for the tip. The other two plastic studs to either side of that cavity are fixed. So, I assumed the middle one next to the battery strap bolt was the same.

You have me thinking now. I bet I could fit another amp down there :).

Ge0
You folks keep going low. With the ski box on top of my rig you could install a lot of stuff. Got to get creative. If you did it right it could be transferable to the nexi car/house. Just plug it in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
One more try here..., and I think the last one, before I finally decide what to do... my center top is starting to show wear and tear :) ... removed so many times.

RED: HERTZ (-) / AP2 (+)
GREEN: HERTZ (+) / AP2 (-)
BLUE: HERTZ (+) / AP2 (+)

The AP2 is highly influencing the peaks at 500, 1200 and 2000 Hz. This is almost the same as with AP2 alone.

Interestingly, with Hertz (-), the peaks seem to be slightly higher than when both are (+) polarity.

Only quiets down in some frequencies when AP2 polarity is reversed. The 1200Hz amplitude is still there, solid, like a rock.

I think I'm reverting to my ear here.

233207
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
I did some measurements using several different songs. The following is a comparison of two very nice 80's:

BLUE: Abracadabra (Steve Miller Band)
GREEN: Who Wants to Live Forever (Queen)

Hertz (+) / AP2 (+)


233210
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #408
One more try here..., and I think the last one, before I finally decide what to do... my center top is starting to show wear and tear :) ... removed so many times.

RED: HERTZ (-) / AP2 (+)
GREEN: HERTZ (+) / AP2 (-)
BLUE: HERTZ (+) / AP2 (+)

The AP2 is highly influencing the peaks at 500, 1200 and 2000 Hz. This is almost the same as with AP2 alone.

Interestingly, with Hertz (-), the peaks seem to be slightly higher than when both are (+) polarity.

Only quiets down in some frequencies when AP2 polarity is reversed. The 1200Hz amplitude is still there, solid, like a rock.

I think I'm reverting to my ear here.

View attachment 233207
You didn't do the obvious. Reverse polarity of both to see if you can get a better blend with the front L/R. I do agree though. Of the three options you tested I do like the response curve with both drivers (+) the best.

I am literally a few hours away from having my system up and operational with the new amps. It was in the mid 90's here today so decided to stay inside and do all my wiring to the connector and to program my main amp (cross-overs, channel assignments, time alignment, etc). Temps drop by 15 degrees tomorrow so it looks like i will be bust after work :). Why do I mention this? I can tune my car remotely using a WIFI link to my amp. I can literally sit at my desk and flip speaker polarities without touching the car :).

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
You didn't do the obvious. Reverse polarity of both to see if you can get a better blend with the front L/R. I do agree though. Of the three options you tested I do like the response curve with both drivers (+) the best.

I am literally a few hours away from having my system up and operational with the new amps. It was in the mid 90's here today so decided to stay inside and do all my wiring to the connector and to program my main amp (cross-overs, channel assignments, time alignment, etc). Temps drop by 15 degrees tomorrow so it looks like i will be bust after work :). Why do I mention this? I can tune my car remotely using a WIFI link to my amp. I can literally sit at my desk and flip speaker polarities without touching the car :).

Ge0
Nice... assuming you received the Bose connector/adapter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
First let me say that it has been a pleasure reading and seeing you gentlemen's work, it’s been fascinating. I hadn’t planning chiming in until I read your excellent observation... surprised by the plot and yet it sounds so good... Don’t be overly misled by graphs and plots. When it comes right down to it what really matters is what it sounds like. It’s a great tool to put you in a given range of established norms but that’s where it ends and art begins. I’ve built more professional audio systems/rooms for studios and and mastering labs than I can recall. We spend 100’s of thousands of dollars on equipment and testing and tuning. In the end it always seems come down to your ears for the tune not a waterfall plot.
Keep up the great work, I can’t wait to see how it all comes out. Thanks!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Santirx

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #412
First let me say that it has been a pleasure reading and seeing you gentlemen's work, it’s been fascinating. I hadn’t planning chiming in until I read your excellent observation... surprised by the plot and yet it sounds so good... Don’t be overly misled by graphs and plots. When it comes right down to it what really matters is what it sounds like. It’s a great tool to put you in a given range of established norms but that’s where it ends and art begins. I’ve built more professional audio systems/rooms for studios and and mastering labs than I can recall. We spend 100’s of thousands of dollars on equipment and testing and tuning. In the end it always seems come down to your ears for the tune not a waterfall plot.
Keep up the great work, I can’t wait to see how it all comes out. Thanks!
The only reason I gutted my Factory Bose was to install equipment that gives me total control over every aspect of the system. There were just too many things about the Bose installation that bugged me and I could not influence. That and with COVID-19 lockdown I have plenty of time on my hands. So, why not go for it all.

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Absolutely! I applaud all your efforts and ambition. You’re an excellent craftsman and obviously consider many paths to reach your goal, I would trust you with my own. I can’t wait to see the rest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #414
I'm getting there. I pre-wired my amp board and have been bench testing the last few days. Temps have cooled off here in Metro Detroit. Time to get outside and install.

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #415
I won't go into great detail here. Just finishing my tweeter install.


Zip tie my new speaker wire run to the factory harness so the new wire does not fall back into the dash. Then, cut to proper length.





Connect tweeter and stuff back into the hole





Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #416
The last few days I had been working my butt off.

Pre-wire my amp board. Crimp on smaller ferrules.





Yep, working at my kitchen table in the rain.



I purchased a mating connector for the main amp harness. I decided to splice into it by using these Amazon butt splices that contain adhesive and solder. If I had to do this again I would prefer to solder wires and cover with heat shrink. I don't trust these splices 100%.





Here is the vehicle harness mating connector I purchased. This saved me from hacking into the factory harness. But, required more splices.



Bolting in numerous connections with crimped ferrules.



Bundling all of the splices. I wrapped each splice in cloth tape just to be safe. I found a few instances where wires wanted to poke through the plastic heat shrink.



Strapping back un-used connections on the mating harness.



Fully assembled amp board


Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #417
Powering up and testing the amp board.


Using this peripheral the amplifier creates its own private wifi network. I can link to the amplifier wireless with my PC or phone and set it up.



A science experiment...



Routing I/O and setting up channel parameters in software. There are 9 channels total:

Front tweeter L plays 3.5KHz and up using 24dB/octave LR crossover
Front tweeter R plays 3.5KHz and up using 24dB/octave LR crossover
Front midrange L plays 300Hz to 3.5KHz using 24dB/octave LR high pass and low pass crossovers
Front midrange R plays 300Hz to 3.5KHz using 24dB/octave LR high pass and low pass crossovers
Front midbass L plays 70Hz to 300Hz using 24dB/octave LR high pass and low pass crossovers
Front midbass R plays 70Hz to 300Hz using 24dB/octave LR high pass and low pass crossovers
Center channel plays 300Hz to 3.5KHz using 24dB/octave LR high pass and low pass crossovers
Differential rear fill mono channel plays 300Hz using a 24dB/octave LR high pass and 12dB/octave LR low pass
Sub channel will play 70Hz and down using a 24dB/octave low pass and 36dB/octave subsonic filter at 15Hz




All my initial settings are subject to change. This was just a good starting point. Many days of measuring and adjusting will determine final settings.

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #418
Installing the amp:


Tie the factory harness behind the amp:



Ready to mount:



Bolt amp rack in place:




Up and running. I was so excited to hear sound from my car again I didn't bother dressing up the wires at this time. Maybe tomorrow. It's pretty cool that I can fit all this gear in the rear quarter panel. Good thing Porsche vehicles use a flared out rear end.


Now I need to re-assemble the rear trim so can re-install the subwoofer.

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #419
Routing main power:

Remove this cap over the positive battery terminal:



Bolt the amo power feed to the non-fused started feed on the battery terminal block.






Re-install the cover. Nice fit.


Secure down the 2 way distribution block. Each feed is protected by a 60A fuse. The sub amp power wire is 8ga automotive grade wire and has a 3ft run. The main amp power feed is also 8ga and has a 5ft run. No problem running smaller gage wire here since the runs are so short. One of the nice things about having the battery and main power distribution center right next to your amps.







All covered up. Ready to put the trunk back together.


Ge0
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,050 Posts
Unbelievable....the end is near !
It’s gonna rock !

Geo, Where did you find that cloth tape.....I been looking for that stuff :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
401 - 420 of 467 Posts
Top