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Any coding required for the Helix?
I'm having my local shop put in a Mobridge DA-1 MOST adaptor and coding is required for that one.
It doesn’t seem to. Just need to set the jumpers to Porsche PCM 3.0 and higher setting and off you go. But @Ge0 can provide more certainty here.

EDIT: OK @Ge0 answered. What he said!! 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #382
So I did a little more work today:

I applied some random goop and took some measurements. The Bose amp is still installed and it's EQ active. The only difference in measurements you see is due to treatments applied to the center channel 3-1/2" loudspeaker.

Before any treatments applied:





233050


Apply some CLD:







You will see small reductions in frequency response here and there after dampening the center channels baffle. The changes you see are not actually due to reduction in musical signal output. They are reductions in panel vibrations that show up as distortion in your overall measurement. Sometimes this is a good thing. RED trace is before. Blue trace is after...




Now replace the plastic trim piece and throw everything out of whack...





The plastic trim panel has it's own significant influence on frequency response of the full range center channel. Most notably between 2KHz and 5KHz... RED trace before. GREEN trace afterwards.




The only purpose for this exercise was to show you the influence of adding changes to a system. Adding the CLD made some difference. However, placing a plastic cover over the center channel made a much larger difference. Mostly for the bad as it caused an attenuation along a large portion of the midrange response.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #384
I made a little more progress after work and chores today. Ran power feeds for both amplifiers:

Start with this rats nest:





Temporary power feed for sub amp:



Looking to mount double fuse holder around here:



I selected a new ground point for sub amp which is about 2ft away. It was grounded to the battery retention strap. While a very short ground wire run and convenient I didn't feel 100% confident in this solution. A mechanic monkeying with the car could mess it up. Now I don't need to worry about technicians reconnecting my ground wire after servicing the battery:







Now prepare the power distribution block. I am second guessing the use of cheap ferrules here. Will they hold?




To be continued...

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #385 (Edited)
Keep stringing wire and tying it down:


Two power feeds for two amps.



Tiding up wiring by following factory wire runs.


Power, ground, remote turn on, and signal run for sub amp:




Must run Power, Remote turn on, and signal from sub amp to main amp:



Extra cable slop[ for now. But, all signals run.





Main amp ground wire:
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233097



Ge0
 

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Installed the grill with hot glue. Installed the AP2 speaker. I did an ear test and it sounds fine to my ear. I’ll do some test with REW tomorrow.

View attachment 232937

View attachment 232938

View attachment 232942

View attachment 232939

View attachment 232940

Removing the clock is a matter of personal preference. I don’t have the chrono clock, just the simple one... so, it was easy. I don’t take my Macan to tracks, it is my commute car. Audio is more important....

View attachment 232941

I really like the way the grille came out, looks factory-like, and more than that, the sound out of the center is very, very defined.
What kit do you recommend for Apple play?
 

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Discussion Starter #389
So I screwed around some more today. Worked on my sub amp mounting scheme:

Bought some U channel aluminum extrusion to help hold my subwoofer amp.









The idea is to JB Weld the aluminum U Channel to the floor. The sub amp mounting board would rest in it. Hmm, what's that in the center?









Crap! It's a rubber access plug. Better not move forward until I understand what this is.

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #390
So, I am impatient:


Don't know what the rubber plug is work around it:



This stuff should be good for light duty:



Scuff up the surfaces so the epoxy sticks better:
233107



I'm a little worried about misalignment of the 2 pieces. I'll need to create a crude fixture to hold stuff in place while the epoxy cures.
233108


Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #391 (Edited)
One more quick task before sunset. Gotta make use of longer days while I have them...

The factory amplifier is grounded here (Brown wire). This must be a decent grounding point for my aftermarket amplifier.



After using sandpaper for 10 minutes I determined this method of removing paint was futile:
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Grab a tool more suited for the job:
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5 minutes later the sheet metal around this stud is clear of paint. Side note. Watch that grey factory wool when using a high speed rotary tool. The wire wheel will suck it in...
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Bolt it down...
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Primary amp ground in an 11" run...

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #392 (Edited)
Only had about 30 minutes tonight before dark:

First things first. Apply shrink tubing to my wire ferrules to keep Cueball happy











Now there is the issue of the dang fuse holder cover popping off randomly. I decided to strap it down:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057563UO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Now to settle the great debate over how to mount my fuse holder:

Industrial strength Velco from ResoNix. The stuff is supposed to survive the Apocalypse. To me it appears to be standard issue Velcro brand. We'll see...



ResoNix Vinyl-Compatible Velcro® – ResoNix Sound Solutions


Heated the adhesive up to a nice warm temperature with my heat gun then stuck and rolled into place:
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Amazon.com: FCHO Car Sound Deadening Roller Metal Installation Tool 3 Pcs for Auto Noise Roller Car Sound Deadener Application Installation Tool Rolling Wheel Interior Accessories: Home Improvement

All done for the night. All out of daylight...

Ge0
 

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Discussion Starter #393 (Edited)
Little things tend to take hours to complete. I still needed a good way to secure my sub amp. This would be the last little bit of fabrication I needed before I pull the trigger and complete the system (for now).

A guy came out of nowhere on the Macan Forum and asked why I wasn't using the 6mm stud on the bottom of my battery compartment to help secure my sub amp. What stud? Turns out it was hidden under this plastic cap:
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I could make a bracket that bolts onto that sucker:
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Then there was one. And then there were more:






Amp fits tight as a glove. It ain't going anywhere:



In retrospect I need to buy some sexier looking hardware and fasteners to give this a polished look. But for now all is good. Need to pre-program my main amp tonight and create a wiring harness for it to interface to the vehicle. But, that's about. it. Almost ready to fire the system up.

Ge0
 

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Little things tend to take hours to complete. I still needed a good way to secure my sub amp. This would be the last little bit of fabrication I needed before I pull the trigger and complete the system (for now).

A guy came out of nowhere on the Macan Forum and asked why I wasn't using the 6mm stud on the bottom of my battery compartment to help secure my sub amp. What stud? Turns out it was hidden under this plastic cap:



I could make a bracket that bolts onto that sucker:













The was one. And then there were more:






Amp fits tight as a glove. It ain't going anywhere:



In retrospect I need to buy some sexier looking hardware and fasteners to give this a polished look. But for now all is good. Need to pre-program my main amp tonight and create a wiring harness for it to interface to the vehicle. But, that's about. it. Almost ready to fire the system up.

Ge0
Pictures didn't make your post.
 

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@Ge0

Some measurements with REW... microphone set upwards in front seat (as recommended / instructed)....

The test focused on the center channel.

Test 1: No Center - everything disconnected
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Test 2: Hertz only (this is the Hertz Mille Pro 70.3 3" midrange pointing upwards towards windshield in factory location)
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Test 3: AP2 Only (this is the Audison AP2 mounted on axis inside former clock location - on top of dash)
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Test 4: Hertz + AP2 (this is the Hertz Mille 70.3 and Audison AP2 connected in series)
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Comparisons:

No Center (RED) vs Hertz (GREEN)
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No Center (RED) vs AP2 (ORANGE)
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No Center (RED) vs {Hertz + AP2 Series}:
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Hertz Only (GREEN) vs AP2 Only (ORANGE):
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Hertz Only (GREEN) vs {Hertz + AP2 in Series} (BLUE)
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AP2 Only (ORANGE) vs {Hertz + AP2 in Series} (BLUE)
233172
 

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Additional comparison:

Hertz (GREEN) vs AP2 Only (ORANGE) vs {Hertz + AP2 in Series} (BLUE)

233173



Hertz (GREEN) vs AP2 Only (ORANGE) vs {Hertz + AP2 in Series} (BLUE) vs No Center (RED)
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I measured my wife's Volvo XC90 Bowers & Wilkins in Studio - Driver's Stage, just as a reference/comparison:

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Macan (BLUE) vs Volvo (BROWN):
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Discussion Starter #399
Try swapping the polarity on one or both of your center channel midranges to see if you can tame those peaks at 500Hz, 1.2KHz, and 2.2KHz.

BTW, your wife's Volvo must be screaming treble. There are peaks 20dB higher than normal.

Ge0
 

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Try swapping the polarity on one or both of your center channel midranges to see if you can tame those peaks at 500Hz, 1.2KHz, and 2.2KHz.

BTW, your wife's Volvo must be screaming treble. There are peaks 20dB higher than normal.

Ge0
These peaks must be a product of having the AP2 in the dash position. If you see the AP2 alone it produces the same peaks at same locations... This is very similar when the two are connected in series.

I’ll try that soon. Maybe today, and see how it behaves.

Thanks!

I was surprised by my wife’s Volvo plot. It sounds good though. Volvo have presets, I can’t control treble or bass, I just select different stages (it has like 10 different ones). Well, maybe there is a way to control that, but haven’t played with it enough.


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