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Discussion starter · #261 · (Edited)
I did a few things after work today:

I installed these speaker terminals from Madisound





I got this heat shrink kit from Amazon. I think there was like 1000 pieces in 20 different sizes for like $10. Not the best quality I have ever used but good enough.






Install XT60 connectors from Amazon:



One characteristic of my new Bosch / Dremel soldering iron I do not care for. That little hole in the soldering tip vents out hot air like a blast furnace. It will absolutely scorch your skin or work piece if you don't have it aimed just right:



See the scorch marks on the wire insulators? You should see the one on my thumb... It also wrecked a few XT60 connectors today as I was getting used to using it.



All shrunk up using my Wagner heat pistol.



Install speakers:





To be continued...

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #262 · (Edited)
Modifying midrange install a bit. I didn't like the tight fit with standard sized socket head cap screws and wanted a better seal against the door trim panel:

Use my new Amazon leather hole punch set ($12) to cut perfect holes in my closed cell foam rings. I had 6 different colors (mostly black) but thought the blue would be fun considering the color of my car:
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I love the versatility and robustness of socket head cap screws. However, here they were digging into the plastic of my door trim once the speaker was bolted on. I also needed to add weather stripping. So, changed to low profile head cap screws.
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Absolutely perfect fit
.
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Side note: Adding 4" midranges throughout the vehicle where 3" units existed is a little challenging. But, work-arounds are possible and entirely doable...

Ge0
 

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Good work Ge0.
What are your plans as far as the source unit goes?
Are you completely replacing the PCM with an aftermarket unit or running a MOST converter between the PCM and your DSP/amps?

I have a similar quandry I’m currently considering.
 
Discussion starter · #265 ·
So it was a scorching hot 4th of July today in Southeast Michigan. What a great day to build more speaker rings for an impulse buy:



Anyway. I got a few more toys in to help me with this job:

After being held in limbo by FedEX for 4 weeks my router shield finally came in. Wish I had this 3 weeks ago when I was making 100 dangerous cuts on the router table.



And here is a down cut spiral flush trim bit. Supposed to make the cutting process cleaner. Mmm. Maybe not so much. Nice bit nonetheless.



Start by getting out the templates, marking on HDPE, and then rough cutting. What a mess in hot / humid / sweaty weather:














To be continued.

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #266 ·
Rough cutting done. Let's get to routing the new style:

Rough cut rings.



Apply double sided tape on both sides of template. One layer to hold template to rough cut work piece. The other to hold template to router shield.







Cutting was perfect and safe:





Created a lot of scraps that I may find useful:



Drill pilot holes and add smooth chamfers.







Done for the day. Time to start grilling hamburgers, brats, and hotdogs....

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #267 ·
I forgot to mention that the new speakers cut out diameter was 1/4" larger than the hole size of my templates I made for the AP8 midranges. So, I had to improvise a little with my rabbeting bit set up to cut an 1/8th" rabbet.



The bit didn't quite make a full 1/2" cut. It left a sliver at the top. But, this was easy to clean up with a chamfer bit as you can see in my last post.





Oh, and for the spiral cut down flush trim bit. SOME of the shavings ended up shooting into the router table. Most still shot outwards to make a mess.



Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #268 ·
How am I going to mount this center channel when the speaker flange covers the mounting holes?














Recess the mounting bolts. Screw on the flange before installing the speaker:














That will work.

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #270 ·
Getting to the D-pillars requires you to loosen / remove other rear cargo area trim pieces. I needed access to route power wires and mount amps so I removed them all. Not too much worse than what Santrix on the Macan Forum has already done.


Start by removing two little plastic nuts on this panel:











Next get out a pry tool and pop the trim loose in two places each side (towards center and the ends):








The trim piece will pop free








Next, you can pop the side trim loose. But, do not try to remove yet. It is bound at the bottom by another piece you need to remove:





In my car you need to remove these tie down hooks by unscrewing the Torx bolts. This will allow the entire trim piece to lift free. Be careful though. There is a washer under every bolt under the chrome piece. You'll loose a washer easy (like I did) if you are not aware / careful.






To be continued


Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #271 ·
Now you can lift the side trim free. You'll need to disconnect the 12V accessory outlet and LED visibility lamp connectors before removal:








Now everything but the D-pillar trim is removed. This gave me an interesting chance to snap a photo to judge how much clearance I will have for a speaker:



It's going to be a tight fit but probably doable.


Here is the side shot with all trim including the D-pillar removed:



The surround effects speaker sits in a little pocket between a wiring harness, sunroof drain tube, and ABS side curtain airbag deploying module (ugh ohh).





This may be a struggle to put back together with the new speaker installed. It has a power little Neodymium motor that is un-shielded. It sticks to everything metal.


While removing trim be aware that some of the clips will stay in the vehicles body and not come off with the plastic panel. I lost one of the D-pillar clips to the interior uni-body structure of the car when trying to remove it.



Here is the dinky little stock surround speaker. It's the same driver as used in the center channel:





Here it is sitting next to the midrange driver I plan on installing:






I'm thinking I need to shrink the package envelope somehow....


To be continued.


Ge0
 
Very nice! I will need to remove all these additional panels when wiring and installing the amps...

Hey... I warned you about the clips! These are little nasty suckers. I provided the part number for the bigger (darker) clip, let me know if you want the P/N again and I can PM to you. I bought about 6 of them to replace a broken one (yes, I managed break one), a lost one, and a couple of deformed ones... :)

Fortunately I didn't lose any of the smaller ones, so I don't know the P/N for that one. I can try to find it for you though.

While removing trim be aware that some of the clips will stay in the vehicles body and not come off with the plastic panel. I lost one of the D-pillar clips to the interior uni-body structure of the car when trying to remove it.





Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #273 ·
Are you adding any sound deadener to that center channel?
I ordered a large batch of sound deadener back in May. It just shipped out July 1st. Now the shipment is lost in FeDex somewhere. I am super pissed. I don't want to put everything back together until I've had the chance to apply it. That's what I get from ordering supplies from a friend...

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #274 ·
Very nice! I will need to remove all these additional panels when wiring and installing the amps...

Hey... I warned you about the clips! These are little nasty suckers. I provided the part number for the bigger (darker) clip, let me know if you want the P/N again and I can PM to you. I bought about 6 of them to replace a broken one (yes, I managed break one), a lost one, and a couple of deformed ones... :)

Fortunately I didn't lose any of the smaller ones, so I don't know the P/N for that one. I can try to find it for you though.
Yeah. I could use spare black and silver ones. I foresee losing / breaking some before all is said and done...

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #275 ·
I can't mount the speaker like this due to mounting depth limitations:





I have an idea. Modify the speaker flange to accommodate the mounting pattern





Now I can mount the speaker directly to the plastic panel. However, I was not happy with the grip of the screws.







Adding some washers helped. But, not entirely happy with how they mount.




Fortunately I had some slim mounting flanges I made earlier





Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #276 ·
Now, how do we wire them?

Install the proper sized speaker terminals:



Steal the connector off the factory speaker:



I don't like how weak the factory connector leads are. Hold them in place with thick glue infused shrink wrap





Once this cools down and hardens its pretty tough:



Now install:


Ge0
 
Yeah. I could use spare black and silver ones. I foresee losing / breaking some before all is said and done...

Ge0
Larger black clip:



For smaller silver clip, check this P/N: 999-507-839-01.

I’m very sure about the black clip, as that is the one I ordered and is a direct replacement, but less sure about the silver clip. I got the parts from getporscheparts.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I ordered a large batch of sound deadener back in May. It just shipped out July 1st. Now the shipment is lost in FeDex somewhere. I am super pissed. I don't want to put everything back together until I've had the chance to apply it. That's what I get from ordering supplies from a friend...

Ge0
Oh that blows, hopefully you do end up finding it soon. Are you planning on putting it on the plastic panels as well? Or only the metal parts is the doors?
 
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