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Discussion starter · #223 · (Edited)
More sub action:

Find and mark the subs location on the baffle:









232172



The baffle
232173



Carboard template to confirm shape:


Fitment check. Spare tire clearance looks good:
232174



The sub amp is bigger than what I had planned. The fit with amp rack is close but no interference. I will leave things be for now. I have physically smaller amp options available if needed. This would shrink the amp rack to a manageable size.


232175



This amp has a similar rating and is a little smaller
232176


232177



Tomorrow I mount the sub and check it out.

Ge0
 
Can't see the photos here...

More sub action:

Find and mark the subs location on the baffle:












The baffle



Carboard template to confirm shape:


Fitment check. Spare tire clearance looks good:



The sub amp is bigger than what I had planned. The fit with amp rack is close but no interference. I will leave things be for now. I have physically smaller amp options available if needed. This would shrink the amp rack to a manageable size.





Tomorrow I mount the sub and check it out.

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #229 ·
So, I did more stuff after work today:


I drew some circles and marked some hole locations:



Make sure my pilot holes line up with a speaker ring:



Then I cut yet another hole with my circle jig. I think the yellow color is pretty cool. The old grey one was kinda blah. Plus, the yellow jig gives me 4X more options for hole size. I get plenty of use out of my trim router.



Speaker ring lines up with big hole. Not 100% accurate but good enough to the naked eye:



This was my first time ever using a plunge router attachment or Rabbet bit. Good thing we have Youtube. The learning curve was quick.



Practice on this scrap piece and set the plunge depth I want.



Making this recess was effortless:



What is this all for you say?






To install this high excursion 10" beast of a subwoofer.

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #230 · (Edited)
OK. Now I need to consider how I am going to protect the sub.

I bought this 12"x12" sheet of perforated 1/16th" sheet steel:


But, I have to cut it into shape for this hole AND find a good way to secure it so it does not vibrate and make unwanted noise:



I don't trust my ability to cut a good circle in the sheet steel with a metal blade and cheap jig saw. I may whip up a drawing and farm this job out. I put in this much effort. I just want the job done right.

I'm thinking about laying down a thin closed cell foam gasket in the groove and then screwing the metal grill down over it. Hopefully I can provide drawings / my concept tomorrow.

Ge0
 
So I got more stuff in today:
View attachment 231816

This gear will replace both Bose amps and allow me to tune my vehicle to my preference. No more simple Bass and Treble controls. The 8 channel amp contains a 10 channel DSP. It has as much processing power as the laptop I am using to type this message.

First up is the MOST25 adapter. Porsche sends all audio data to the amps via fiber optic cable. This little box decodes the MOST25 signal and will send audio data to my main DSP amp via TOSLINK fiber optic cable. It also provides remote turn on/off for the external amps.
View attachment 231817

View attachment 231818

View attachment 231819


Then of course here is the DSP amplifier. Each speaker in the system (front tweets, front midrange, front midbass, center channel, and rear fill) will get a dedicated amp channel with its own crossover, EQ, and time alignment. Amp is rated for 75W per channel into 4 ohms or 120W per channel into 2 ohms x 8 channels. This thing is a little pricey but it is a masterpiece.
View attachment 231820

View attachment 231821

View attachment 231822


Then of course there is this beast. It will deliver 650W into a single 2 ohm subwoofer or 900W into two subwoofers. Mind you this is overkill. But, my dealer gave me a hard to pass up bargain on it. The sub amp will get signal from the main amp via RCA cable.
View attachment 231823

View attachment 231824

View attachment 231825

I find this interesting. I am going to create a 9 channel audio system with only needing to run one short RCA. 10 years ago I would have RCA cables run everywhere.

Ge0
First off great thread! I’m actually In the process of installing 3 way focal access and 2 way access component speakers with a 10” punch 3 sub in the back. I had a question though. I was going to get the Helix V twelve w/ DSP to have it all in one amp to power everything. Is that separate adapter msd25 necessary for my car with a base system?
 
Discussion starter · #233 · (Edited)
Is that an infinite baffle sub? So you don’t need a box? It looks like you are just installing it in a panel from the photos (I don’t see a box).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Correct. I'm going to try it without a box for now. This will maximize low frequency extension. I can always make an enclosure out of fiberglass under the baffle if I need it in the future. But, this would reduce low frequency extension. There is a trade-off seeing how there is not a lot of room under the floor.

That's why I was testing the sub in that 1.5 cu/ft box. Once I stuff jumper cables and emergency kit under the floor the remaining air space will be roughly 1.5 cu/ft.

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #234 ·
First off great thread! I’m actually In the process of installing 3 way focal access and 2 way access component speakers with a 10” punch 3 sub in the back. I had a question though. I was going to get the Helix V twelve w/ DSP to have it all in one amp to power everything. Is that separate adapter msd25 necessary for my car with a base system?
You do not need a MOST25 or MOST150 adapter with the base system. That only applies to vehicles with the BOSE or Burmester systems. You can get by with using high level speaker inputs on the V Twelve.

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #236 ·
I did some more stuff today:

Start with this:



This tool set is cheap and highly useful


https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2000-...&sprefix=dremel+soldering+iron,aps,294&sr=8-2

So is this little heat gun


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X4SMRQ/ref=twister_B085WPW8KZ?_encoding=UTF8&th=1


Ok, where was I? Start wiring the sub:

I like to use tie downs to hold the wire, provide strain relief, and reduce vibration.



Ready to solder on disconnects:



Use hot air gun to properly apply heat shrink:








Good to go:


To be continued:

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #237 ·
Now for the car side:

Make sure sub amp is off. Prep wire end for soldering:
against


These connectors are robust against soldering heat but not perfect. Take your time. Be careful. Make sure your solder joints are wet and flow properly:





Protect your conducting ends with heat shrink





Lay sub speaker cable in convenient location:



plug'er in:


Done





Half time...


To be continued:

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #238 ·
Now let's talk sheet metal:

I need to make a circle pattern in this sheet of perforated steel. Obviously pencil does not show up. I could not fit a pen in this compass. I could not etch / scratch a line in the steel used the compasses sharp point. What to do?



I thought of this. Will the tape stick?



Increase the clarity of the cut line with sharpe fine point pen.



Secure the sheet metal to a backboard with wood screws to prevent vibration during cut.






I ran out of daylight today to actual;l;y cut the sheet metal. Maybe more action tomorrow.

Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #239 ·
So I think I have this figured out. This little wheel is leaving a real good score mark. But, it is loud as **** and bothering my neighbors. Who are eating dinner or trying to sit down and watch TV for the night. I'll pick this back up in the morning with a metal cut off wheel.





Ge0
 
Discussion starter · #240 ·
Weird day today I made a little progress:

This metal rips through these cut off wheels:



But, a nice fine line:



I think I went through 9 cut off wheels total:





Sharp crisp edges:





Take off sharp edges the easy way:



Polish it up a little better



Good enough fit. The grill is 1/16th" undersized. However, this may work out ok.



To be continued...

Ge0
 
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