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My local O'reilly has three different sizes, on the shelf, for my '18. Cost is $240 no matter which you buy. Their site states for all three:
I'll use test leads from my 12v power supply to the main terminals while I swap the new one in, and my POR to register it.
OReilly's Super Start 49PLT is an exact fit for my OE battery. The 94 is shorter, so it will fit, just fewer CCAs.

My POR2 has no battery registration. The 2014-2018 95B Service and Repair Manual has procedures for replacing the battery- dies not mention a scanner. You have to manually reset a few items after the swap.
 

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2016 Macan Turbo
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OReilly's Super Start 49PLT is an exact fit for my OE battery. The 94 is shorter, so it will fit, just fewer CCAs.

My POR2 has no battery registration. The 2014-2018 95B Service and Repair Manual has procedures for replacing the battery- dies not mention a scanner. You have to manually reset a few items after the swap.
That battery looks like the East Penn made 92 AH version. Should be good to replace an original 92AH battery.

If you have a Sams Club nearby, they sell the exact same thing for less under the Duracell Platinum AGM brand. Duracell AGM Automotive Battery - Group Size 49 (H8) - Sam's Club

And of course, Walmart's Everstart 95AH Clarios made battery is the lowest cost anyone has found lately. Robot or human?

Have a look at this Porsche generated document from 2018... https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10134874-9999.pdf
Page 2 reads:
If the battery needs to be replaced, the following data must be entered in the gateway control unit using PIWIS Tester III (under Maintenance/repairs - Change battery):
• Serial number,
• part number,
• manufacturer and
• battery size.


This must have been updated later because no reference is made to the battery type, which current regiatration tools require.
 

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That battery looks like the East Penn made 92 AH version. Should be good to replace an original 92AH battery.

If you have a Sams Club nearby, they sell the exact same thing for less under the Duracell Platinum AGM brand. Duracell AGM Automotive Battery - Group Size 49 (H8) - Sam's Club

And of course, Walmart's Everstart 95AH Clarios made battery is the lowest cost anyone has found lately. Robot or human?

Have a look at this Porsche generated document from 2018... https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10134874-9999.pdf
Page 2 reads:
If the battery needs to be replaced, the following data must be entered in the gateway control unit using PIWIS Tester III (under Maintenance/repairs - Change battery):
• Serial number,
• part number,
• manufacturer and
• battery size.


This must have been updated later because no reference is made to the battery type, which current regiatration tools require.
Looks like I'll need to upgrade my scan tool- again. What a racket. I guess I'll go for their CR Pro+ since that will work on my truck as well.
 

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Most of those devices are Chinese man, so not much we can do about that. I saw other brands, but since most here use iCarSoft, I plan to buy one of those. Now the $64K question: Which version should I buy then: V2.0 or V3.0??? It's for a 2018 Macan 2.0T Sport Edition. The former would be cheaper, but logic says the newer one should have more functions, no? Hope a few members can answer that question, to see what the consensus is :). I'd like to order one tomorrow. Thank you.
 

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Most of those devices are Chinese man, so not much we can do about that. I saw other brands, but since most here use iCarSoft, I plan to buy one of those. Now the $64K question: Which version should I buy then: V2.0 or V3.0??? It's for a 2018 Macan 2.0T Sport Edition. The former would be cheaper, but logic says the newer one should have more functions, no? Hope a few members can answer that question, to see what the consensus is :). I'd like to order one tomorrow. Thank you.
In checking the reviews on Amazon, it appears that V3 has a lot more problems than V2. It might be that V3 can be fixed via a software update but who knows?
 

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2018 Macan SE Agate Gray
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In checking the reviews on Amazon, it appears that V3 has a lot more problems than V2. It might be that V3 can be fixed via a software update but who knows?
A "take-away" from the core issue of this thread: A few lines of code would make it possible to use an interface like the one used to enter a destination in the Nav function to enter the required information but that would destroy the real purpose, wouldn't it.

Love the car, can't say the same for the company
 

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2016 Macan Turbo
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A "take-away" from the core issue of this thread: A few lines of code would make it possible to use an interface like the one used to enter a destination in the Nav function to enter the required information but that would destroy the real purpose, wouldn't it.

Love the car, can't say the same for the company
I get that Porsche does not trust its customers to do anything technical (if you can call what we are dealing with, technical). For the moment, let's say that is reasonable for Porsche to not trust the average customer. OK. So the HVAC industry has a way of working with this issue. e.g. My Trane Wi-fi thermostat can provide access to a very detailed list of settings that can be made behind a protective "barrier". If a user wants to tinker there (as I do) then hitting "Service" and holding the touch point down for 10 seconds is followed by a warning that only trained pros are intended to venture further with all the appropriate leagal mumbo jumbo to protect themselves from further liability. That's it. Easy. Porsche could easily have worked that out. But, they clearly see this sort of customer empowerment as against their interest. We have to simply accept that what was an enthusiast oriented brand has become an hyper-elite brand only intended for the very well heeled. That, or sell and buy something else.
 

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If you screw up the programming of your Wi-Fi thermostat, nobody is going to die. If you screw up programming your Porsche, somebody could (not the battery registration, specifically ;) but the dangers coding with these tools in general). Liability. What would drive Porsche to make registration available to the everyman? They appear to have enough issues with electronics that they don't need to introduce something that a handful of enthusiasts will utilize.

Not to mention you are going into a menu for 'trained pros'...not too different than a PIWIS being used by a trained pro to get into a 'service' menu.
 

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If you screw up the programming of your Wi-Fi thermostat, nobody is going to die. If you screw up programming your Porsche, somebody could (not the battery registration, specifically ;) but the dangers coding with these tools in general). Liability. What would drive Porsche to make registration available to the everyman? They appear to have enough issues with electronics that they don't need to introduce something that a handful of enthusiasts will utilize.

Not to mention you are going into a menu for 'trained pros'...not too different than a PIWIS being used by a trained pro to get into a 'service' menu.
Some of your points are well taken. However, there is a difference, a SEVERAL THOUSAND dollar difference between owning a PIWIS and getting into my thermostat. Controlling which settings are dangerous to others and which are not (e.g. battery registration) would seem to be the easiest part of this.
 

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Some of your points are well taken. However, there is a difference, a SEVERAL THOUSAND dollar difference between owning a PIWIS and getting into my thermostat. Controlling which settings are dangerous to others and which are not (e.g. battery registration) would seem to be the easiest part of this.
Yes, I understand that...but the cost and complexity of a Macan (and potential cost of the resulting damage) is much greater than a WiFi thermostat, as well. I realize I am being a bit obtuse here, but trying to make a point. ;)

What I was trying to convey was: why would Porsche spend resources to pull out one feature (or maybe more as one could have this argument over several features that require PIWIS) to allow changes? Considering the market, what percentage of people are even interested in this? My uneducated guess is 'infinitesimally small'. :geek:
 

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I think you guys are overthinking this. (smile)
I believe it all comes done to money, money in the dealers pocket that is. Porsche is rewarding its dealer network by driving a lucrative function to them. Why allow the owner to purchase a battery for $200.00 dollars and install it themselves when the dealer will do it for $1000.00 dollars and pocket the difference?
 

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I think you guys are overthinking this. (smile)
I believe it all comes done to money, money in the dealers pocket that is. Porsche is rewarding its dealer network by driving a lucrative function to them. Why allow the owner to purchase a battery for $200.00 dollars and install it themselves when the dealer will do it for $1000.00 dollars and pocket the difference?
You are, of course, correct - and I'll make it even simpler by offering the following: All that is needed is a bright red sticker on the original battery with words to the effect "WARNING This car is fitted with an AGM battery. Replace only with an AGM battery of equivalent or greater capacity" The car can figure out all the rest using the same algorithms used to control charging rate and assess SOH (to turn off start/stop etc as the battery ages.)

And, on that topic, I realized today that my analysis, based primarily on observation of the voltage profile, had omitted a key data point. I don't like start/stop and turned it off when I picked up the car and didn't look back. Today I deselected the "off" function and the start/stop unavailable symbol appeared! I have ~ 6 months and 6000 miles left on the new car warranty - we'll see what the dealer says.
 

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Just viewed a YouTube video on battery registration on a 2021 F150. No new arguments there that has not been covered here.
One interesting point I thought was that Ford requires that when charging the battery in the vehicle, the hookup is.
Positive cable to positive battery terminal. Negative charger cable to vehicle ground. NEVER directly to the negative terminal of the battery being charged.
Reason; The negative terminal has the battery monitoring electronics connected in series between the battery terminal and the vehicles ground connection to the body.
This electronic gismo apparently tells the battery monitor control how much the battery has been charged so it can adjust the alternator output accordingly. For those (myself included ) who has installed permanent wiring for the battery maintainers (trickle chargers) directly to the battery, the negative connection should be installed directly to the vehicle's body. I believe the battery maintainers instructions also said this.
Pretty sure that's the way the connections are when accessed from under the hood or via the cigarette lighter / charging outlets.
 

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It does NOT matter, electrically speaking, if you connect the battery maintainer across the battery terminals, or use a chassis connection. The "don't connect the lead to the neg battery terminal" comes from a safety thing....there can be hydrogen gas near a lead-acid battery, and connecting at the battery terminal may cause a spark, igniting the hydrogen. A chassis connection away from the battery is safer.
 

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It does NOT matter, electrically speaking, if you connect the battery maintainer across the battery terminals, or use a chassis connection. The "don't connect the lead to the neg battery terminal" comes from a safety thing....there can be hydrogen gas near a lead-acid battery, and connecting at the battery terminal may cause a spark, igniting the hydrogen. A chassis connection away from the battery is safer.
Actually, there could be a function (and a very small associated difference) If this monitor contained a very low resistance - perhaps 0.05 ohm. the negligible voltage drop across that resistance would inform the system of the current draw which will be related to various loads, battery charging rate/level etc.
 

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Yes, I understand that...but the cost and complexity of a Macan (and potential cost of the resulting damage) is much greater than a WiFi thermostat, as well. I realize I am being a bit obtuse here, but trying to make a point. ;)

What I was trying to convey was: why would Porsche spend resources to pull out one feature (or maybe more as one could have this argument over several features that require PIWIS) to allow changes? Considering the market, what percentage of people are even interested in this? My uneducated guess is 'infinitesimally small'. :geek:
I completely agree with you on this point. They definitely do not value the kind of customer who would read this forum. We enthusiasts have an outsized effect on brand equity because we are influential and can affect many other's preferences. They do support PCA for that very reason. I wonder what proportion of PCA members are image driven versus those with an interest in the intrinsic value of the vehicle itself. I would suspect the former. If so, that would reinforce your point. Maybe we need to rebrand this forum as, "Unappreciated Macan Owners Forum" ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,317 · (Edited)
This past weekend, I replaced my 7+ yr. Old Macan Varta battery with a Pep Boys “Champion” AGM H8 battery. 900CCA, 95 Ah. 4 year warranty.
Made/distributed by Clarios (formerly Johnson Controls)

The video I re-posted here, 11-11-22, is a very good tutorial on replacing the battery. (I ignored the registration portion since I used a completely different tool to register mine.)
$209.99 (+ refundable core charge $22), SKU 2071679, Part # H8-900CHAGM
My date sticker showed 5/22. I bet they never charged it since then.

I bench tested & then charged my new battery with CTEK b4 installation.
MM showed only 12.48V
Solar capacitance tester: Solar 12.45 V, OK recharge 964 CCA, SOH = 100%, SOC = 65% 2.61 mΩ
I had to charge 15-18 hours b4 CTEK showed done!
After fully charged & still b4 install…
MM= 13.45 V
Solar 13.34 V, OK (? CCA), SOH = 100%, SOC = 100% 2.54 mΩ
{I forgot to write down the CCA but must have been 900 CCA or more to yield SOH 100%}

Pictures; Champion installed, old Varta removed, + side vent hole with red detachable plug attached to red + terminal plastic cover. & labels.

Note: when you buy a new battery, they may or may not have the + terminal cover. I think some stores trash or lose those! You can & should remove & reuse the vent plug from your old battery. For our Macans, the - side vent hole is used for the vent hose. The + side also has a vent hole that s/b plugged.

Gas Motor vehicle Machine Auto part Trunk


Automotive exterior Bumper Electronic instrument Font Gas


Office equipment Material property Gas Gadget Automotive wheel system


Font Rectangle Signage Brand Advertising


Automotive tire Font Automotive wheel system Electronic device Auto part


Empty cargo & any under floor items & spare tire.
Note: the supplied lug wrench can lay on top of the flipped back hinged battery cover to keep it out of your way. Long straight end pointed to front of car & short end hanging down towards you. Works perfectly.

Remove sub Woofer (If have Bose)2, T-30 bolts on either side. Remove L side wiring harness clip by squeezing/pinching the small tabs. Try to position the wires out of your way so you do not damage then when remove & replace the heavy battery. Note the orientation of the subW, where the speaker is & which is R & L side. Careful to not damage the speaker cone!

Remove 13mm bolt holding the strap that secures the battery in place.
Note the way the strap is positioned with respect to the + terminal assembly which you will be removing.

Remove the vent tube from the vent hole & push it out of your way. (Do not forget to reconnect this tube!)

Now attach your ‘device’ to supply power during the time no battery is connected in order to retain your memory settings. Assuming your trunk light is on, you will know if this worked since the light should remain on when you disconnect the - terminal 1st. Use a 10mm wrench or socket. Hand tool only! Do not attempt to completely remove the 10mm bolt! Just loosen enough to wiggle off the cable terminal connector.

Assuming the - cable comes off & trunk light still on, go ahead & remove the + side which comes off along with the bulky + side assembly. No need to try to remove any of that assembly, just secure it out of the way (I used a bungee cord) or have an assistant hold it back.
Care should be taken to ensure no metal part of the positive side assembly touches any metal on the car.

Now you can slide the old battery towards you to get the lip out from under the shelf securing it & then lift the old battery out.

Be careful of your back & your bumper.

Side note: I had planned to use my JNC770R jump starter to supply 12V via the 12V outlet in the cabin.

The JNC manual states;
“12 Volt DC Power

Your Jump-N-Carry is an essential tool for all who replace automobile batteries.
Most vehicles have electronic components with memory, such as alarm systems, computers, radios, phones, etc. and when the vehicle’s battery is replaced, the memory is lost. However, if the Male-Male Extension Cord is connected from the Jump-N-Carry to the 12 Volt outlet on the vehicle, the memory can be saved.”

I made sure my 12V outlets were “activated” by cycling the ignition just b4 attaching the included double male ended cord to both JNC & to center console outlet as the manual instructed.
I was surprised when the trunk light went out the instant I removed my - battery cable! I replaced the - cable w/in 1 minute & tried to figure out WTF happened. Is he JNC power switch on…yes. Are both ends of the cable securely inserted into the 12V sockets…yes. I tried a different 12V outlet in the Macan…same problem. So 2x Macan was w/o power for < 1 minute. Now I’m concerned about the memory settings. I decided to use the JNC battery post clamps to clamp onto the battery cable ends, which was very awkward & why I needed the bungee cord to hold the + cable assembly out of my way.

Next, place the vent plug into the + side vent hole on the new battery b4 you install it. Much easier to jam it in b4 battery is deep in the bottom of your Macan.

Now lift the new battery into the Macan. Make sure you have oriented it correctly b4 you lift. - post R hand side & + L hand side. I set it down partly in the subW area & then carefully slid it into position. Note the far end bottom battery lip must go under the shelf in the Macan.

Insert vent hose in - side vent hole. Twist & push it all the way in till stops. It is a tight fit. Adjust battery position R & L so even. You s/b able to eyeball that. It is possible to have it too far R or L . There is nothing to stop battery sides on R or L. Make sure battery is pushed back as far as it will go under that floor lip!


Replace bracket making sure it is centered without twisting at an angle.
Replace 13mm bolt in bracket & tighten securely.
Try to rock the battery to verify it is very secure in place, especially under that far side Macan floor lip.

Replace - terminal 1st & tighten the 10mm nut. Not too tight! Just so you cannot twist or wiggle the cable end on the post.

Do the same with the + terminal assembly. Carefully.
Now you can remove your device that supplied voltage during the battery change.

Next replace the subW. 1st reconnect the wiring harness. Speaker faces the bumper. Note on the bottom the 2 female openings that will go over 2 male floor tabs. You will not be able to see that placement once sub blocks your view but can feel. When in the correct place the side bracket holes will line up with floor bolt holes. Replace the 2, T-30 bolts.
When placing the subW careful to align the wire so it is below the latching of the hinged battery cover. It is easy to have the wire on top so it can be damaged when you close that cover.

Note: my subW was missing the same metal clip on the same L side as shown in the video! Coincidence? I wonder if there are not supposed to be 2 clips. Rather just 1 for some reason.

Please post if you subW has 2 clips or just 1 on the bottom.

Now close battery hinged cover, making sure you push those several small tabs so the cover locks in place & then carpet flips back on top & can replace spare tire & then cargo floor.

Next program the new battery.

HTH
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,318 ·
More on my JNC770 failing to supply power using male-make supplied cord as the manual states.

I contacted Clore Automotive to ask what I did wrong & was told by 2 different tech support reps that in order to save memory, you must purchase an additional power cord, ESA30 Memory Saver Cord.

So apparently their own manual has incorrect information!

I did lose the setting for the height of the rear hatch when opened.
The hatch would not close until I followed the procedure to set the maximum opening height.

I also lost the setting for PASM selection.

All other setting seem intact.

IDK if that is bc power was only lost for 2 x for ~ 1 minute each.

Still annoying.
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,319 ·
I registered my new battery using Autel Maxi AP200 & my Samsung Galaxy S7 edge phone.

The manual is a joke! Very general. > 1 year ago, I had taken some notes from a post (here on MF?) where someone posted screen shots & maybe a video using this tool.

After I purchased, I D/L the software & tested briefly by connecting to Macan OBD port, synching with my phone & noting some codes. I had planned to read the manual (39 pages) & write up a cheat sheet.

Once I finally got around to reading the manual,
I was surprised that this was all it said re battery registering function:

p.17
——————————————————————————————
Battery Management System (BMS) Service 


The BMS (Battery Management System) allows the scan tool to evaluate the battery charge state, monitor the close-circuit current, register the battery replacement, and activate the rest state of the vehicle. 

NOTE
This function is not supported by all vehicles. The screens shown in this section are examples.

The sub functions and actual test screens of the BMS may vary for different test vehicles, please follow the on-screen instructions to make correct option selection.

The vehicle may use either a sealed lead-acid battery or an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery. Lead acid battery contains liquid sulphuric acid and can spill when overturned. AGM battery (known as VRLA battery, valve regulated lead acid) also contains sulphuric acid, but the acid is contained in glass mats between terminal plates.

It is recommended that the replacement aftermarket battery has the same specifications, such as capacity and type, with the battery used in the vehicle. If the original battery is replaced with a different type of battery (e.g. a lead-acid battery is replaced with an AGM battery) or a battery with a different capacity (mAh), the vehicle may require reprogramming the new battery type in addition to performing the battery reset. Consult the vehicle manual for additional vehicle-specific information.

Register Battery Replacement

This option allows displaying the mileage reading of last battery replacement, registering the battery replacement after replacing a new battery and informing the power management system that a new battery has been fitted to the vehicle.

If the battery change is not registered, the power management system will not function properly, which may not provide the battery with enough charging power to operate the car and limit the functions of individual electrical equipment.
—————————————————————————————————————
In the first couple of chapters it does explain how to connect the device to the OBD 2 port and what the different lights mean. (I need to actually use a small hand mirror to see the lights while sitting in the driver seat because the Macan OBD 2 port is so deep on the left side in the driver foot well.)

It describes how to sync to your phone and generally how to navigate and the different function buttons.

I would've been lost without having previously made some notes from that video or post I had seen, probably a year ago!

Interestingly, when I first connected and synced it had nothing under Porsche, which was disconcerting but, I had to actually re-download the Porsche information!

Luckily it worked. I had to find “service” and then tap “BMS” and it showed me Porsche v. 2.01, expiration date ∞, which is good because that's what was promised when I purchased it.

I allowed the device to access via automatic selection and read my VIN number and it correctly said Macan 2016 then I had to choose between diagnosis or hot function and luckily I had made a note that I'm supposed to select Hot function.

And then I got the screen I was waiting for to enter the 4 fields of battery information.

This is what I used:

Battery capacity: 95 (for amp hours/Ah)
Battery technology: AGM
Part number: 95861109521
Serial number: 6.56489.34751.0

I then got to a save PDF screen which was pre-populated with a file name and in the remarks I just wrote down new battery Champion or something like that.

Then I had to hit the back button and I saw the same 4 fields that I had previously filled in and each one had a checkmark after it.

So I hit the execute button and finally I got the desired pop-up window that said: Battery change process perform successfully, press OK to end”

When I was all finished I turned ignition to on & I briefly got an MFD display that said battery low, start car and run for extended period.
WTF?!

I guess I had been sitting in the car with the ignition in the on position for more than an hour going through my notes and having the overhead lights on and painstakingly doing this slowly, one step at a time.

But ever since then it's been great and my MFD alternator voltage has mostly been approximately 13.3–13.8 V. Previously for the last few months it's mostly been around 14.7 V.

I don't know if this would happen if I had just changed the battery and not registered it.

It would be nice to hear from people who did change batteries without registering what they've been seeing on their MFD for alternator voltage compared to what they had before with their old battery.
 
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