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2016 Macan Turbo
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Yes, plenty of examples in this thread. I used an Autel 808 pro but other gadgets will do the task.
edit: whether you can do this might depend on the age of your car.

Jules
I have read the entire thread - all 64 pages - and there seems to be some controversy as to whether or not charging into the 12v outlets will work for more than 30 minutes without re-programming. Any chance you can point me in the right direction for the programming info ? Or can you provide the logic path for the Autel MD808 ? Just to be clear, I'm curious where the ability to keep the 12v power outlets connected resides.

Also, I have used the iCarsoft POR V3.0 to register a new battery. It was easy and seemed to go well. However, I am unable to see the current, new battery registration, nor the old either. I have e-mailed iCarsoft and they suggested reading the live data in the Gateway. There are many sub-menus with non-descript headings and even labelled "Battery", all of which I have looked at, yet none of them hold the data fields for battery: type, AH, part number and serial number. So, I am unable to confirm my registration.
 

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2018 Macan SE Agate Gray
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235 Posts
I have also read the thread and my current thinking is that it reflects a tortured scheme by Porsche to afford dealers the opportunity to make a quick $500+ profit on what is perhaps a 20 minute process.

The starting load is not particularly onerous. Since they are all turbocharged, the compression ratios are modest, 9.6:1 for the 4 cyl, a little higher for the 6cyl models - you're not starting a 6L diesel!
 

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I have read the entire thread - all 64 pages - and there seems to be some controversy as to whether or not charging into the 12v outlets will work for more than 30 minutes without re-programming. Any chance you can point me in the right direction for the programming info ?
My apology, I misunderstood your post. I doubt that the Autel, or any other one of these devices, could re-program the 12V outlet. The Autel certainly certainly has fields to set Ah rating and I think both part and serial number, though I haven't gone through the steps for a year or so.

Jules
 

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I have used the iCarsoft POR V3.0 to register a new battery. It was easy and seemed to go well.
Hey, so what happened with your registration after all? I need to buy one of those gizmos, but there are several different models out there. Somebody posted being able to register the battery with the 'V 2.0' (rather than 3.0), but I'd like to get a link to the exact model somebody here has successfully used. I found this 2.0V: https://www.amazon.com/iCarsoft-Dia...ocphy=1022594&hvtargid=pla-569205908626&psc=1 . If you can do it with your V3.0, please post a link to the exact unit you have :). It'd be greatly appreciated.

Moving on, I haven't removed the spare to check the battery on a 2018 Macan 2.0T Sport Edition, but I assume it is an AGM H8 900CAA 95Ah mentioned here, right? And if I buy a Walmart H8AGM 900CAA 95Ah, can I register it without a Porsche serial number? Nobody has mentioned that yet. I prefer to register it, since the charging system wouldn't fully charge a new battery thinking it's old, but not sure how big of a deal that'd be. So rather spend the $120 or so, and also be able to reset the service reminder, since I need to change the oil too. Thanks gang.
 

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2016 Macan Turbo
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Hey, so what happened with your registration after all? I need to buy one of those gizmos, but there are several different models out there. Somebody posted being able to register the battery with the 'V 2.0' (rather than 3.0), but I'd like to get a link to the exact model somebody here has successfully used. I found this 2.0V: https://www.amazon.com/iCarsoft-Dia...ocphy=1022594&hvtargid=pla-569205908626&psc=1 . If you can do it with your V3.0, please post a link to the exact unit you have :). It'd be greatly appreciated.

Moving on, I haven't removed the spare to check the battery on a 2018 Macan 2.0T Sport Edition, but I assume it is an AGM H8 900CAA 95Ah mentioned here, right? And if I buy a Walmart H8AGM 900CAA 95Ah, can I register it without a Porsche serial number? Nobody has mentioned that yet. I prefer to register it, since the charging system wouldn't fully charge a new battery thinking it's old, but not sure how big of a deal that'd be. So rather spend the $120 or so, and also be able to reset the service reminder, since I need to change the oil too. Thanks gang.
I used the icarsoft POR V3.0 like this one... https://www.amazon.com/iCarsoft-Porsche-Cayenne-Diagnostic-Actuation/dp/B08ZHWHKPP/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2L0WS4HPUJ5F0&keywords=icarsoft+por+v3.0+for+porsche&qid=1669034204&s=automotive&sprefix=icarsoft+POR+V3.0,automotive,94&sr=1-4&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

Installation and registration of the Walmart Everstart Platinum AGM H8 (95AH / 900 CCA) was easy. Based on what I can determine from mining all the Disgnostics / Gateway / Battery info available, everything appears to be working correctly in the car and codes that were thrown which related to low battery are not now coming back. Auto Stop-Start also now works after it had not for a few months. Oddly, when starting up for the first time, the MFD asked me to drive the car to charge the battery. I had jumped the under hood battery terminals to another car's battery while doing the install so that was not the issue. The battery was manufactured in the same month as installation (11/22) and had tested at 100% SOH and 100% SOC. Auto-Stop Start did not work at first, but did after I got home after driving only 5 miles, which could not have charged the battery by very much. Cynically, I thought that the car did not trust that I actually installed what I told (registered) it I had and it wanted proof by having me drive so it could measure the battery condition itself... a Porsche version of "trust, but verify". Perhaps that is not far from the truth.

I would pull the spare and look to confirm what you have before buying a replacement. It's not THAT difficult and that stuff has to come out for the replacement anyway. The Porsche parts list I have seen, which may not include your particular model, shows 3 different batteries - 75AH, 92 AH and 105AH. I presume it is based on what is needed for the car based on the equipment installed. These are H7, H8 and H9 sizes respectively. All will fit as only the width of the case gets bigger with increasing capacity and there is plenty of room in the bay for that. Be sure to plug the unused vent hole on the positive side of the battery with the break-off plug attached to the red plastic positive terminal cover.

From what I have read on this thread, older iCarsoft POR V2.0 models did not work for registration, but more recent software updates seem to have fixed that problem though I can not vouch for that. My issue is that now that I have registered my new battery, I am unable to see its registration info on the iCarsoft V3.0, which is a disappointment because I'd like to verify that what I did is all good. I have asked iCarsoft for help twice and so far all they can answer is extremely vague and not really helpful. I have pulled live data on every screen related to the Gateway and while there is a LOT of info there, none of it is the info entered to register a battery. Service resets should not be a problem, though I have only reset codes.

There is a lot of controversy on whether a registration is really needed. Obviously I thought it wise to do so. My personal belief after reading the entire thread is that registration helps get the battery parameters right quickly and may help the battery's health. But, eventually, the car will learn what to do on its own because it has a sophisticated battery sensor system, corroborated by all the data I have seen on the iCarsoft V3.0. It can even tell the difference between the battery's open circuit voltage (disconnected, even though it IS connected) and actual circuit voltage (connected). This is an example screen....
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2018 Macan SE Agate Gray
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Sulphated perhaps? - I've been watching the voltmeter on my '18 SE. Of late I've seen ignition on but not started 11.8V and after starting, the maximum running voltage has gradually climbed from 14.9 V to the 15.3 V this (cold) morning. I have not pulled the spare to see if the battery is the original (CPO car, purchased 4 months ago) This change in running voltage is what one would expect if the charging output was current limited - the higher resistance of a sulphate battery would be reflected in a higher charging voltage up to some limit reflecting the alternator's maximum output. (This is simply physics - not some arcane intelligence)

So, riddle me this: If the system, having (learned) (observed) the change in the battery characteristics, why is it not able to learn or observe these same properties of a new battery, particularly if the basic properties of the new battery (AGM vs flooded, cold start capacity, A/H) are the same as the old one?
 

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2016 Macan Turbo
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In my case, the car did not appear to learn the battery simply based on turning the key, but it did appear to after driving it a little because all seems to be good.

Your comments about variations in charging voltage may hold for a non-intelligent system where the supplied voltage and the battery condition are constants. But the Macan charging system is not a static system. It appears to make changes to charging voltage based on many variables, likely including battery temperature for example. My iCarsoft reports the battery's temperature 2 different ways ("acid" and "pole"). Battery resistance is explicitly measured and reported. etc. etc.
 

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Can you share how you arrived at that conclusion ?
OK - here's a quick response that I will be amplifying based on today's observations (a two hour round trip errand drive)

Systems, programs etc. notwithstanding, there is a basic law of physics that must be obeyed:
E= IR Ohm's Law where E= voltage, I= current and R = resistance
Assumptions: (1) a charged battery has a higher internal resistance than a partially discharged one and (2) sulphation increases the base resistance of a battery.
So, the initial voltage reading, 11.8 volts, is low suggesting a not fully charged battery but one seeing a low current draw thus "I" will be low. Assuming a constant current situation, one would assume that as the battery charges, recouping the starting drain, the indicated voltage will increase reflecting resistance increase but with the terminal voltage higher than the typical level - e.g 15-15.3 volts vs 14+/- this suggests an incremental "core" resistance above and beyond the native resistance of a fully charged battery due, perhaps to sulphation or other defect.
Variables like temperature can change these numbers but the overall high/low pattern will remain.
 

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2018 Macan SE Agate Gray
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Sulphated perhaps? - I've been watching the voltmeter on my '18 SE. Of late I've seen ignition on but not started 11.8V and after starting, the maximum running voltage has gradually climbed from 14.9 V to the 15.3 V this (cold) morning. I have not pulled the spare to see if the battery is the original (CPO car, purchased 4 months ago) This change in running voltage is what one would expect if the charging output was current limited - the higher resistance of a sulphate battery would be reflected in a higher charging voltage up to some limit reflecting the alternator's maximum output. (This is simply physics - not some arcane intelligence)

So, riddle me this: If the system, having (learned) (observed) the change in the battery characteristics, why is it not able to learn or observe these same properties of a new battery, particularly if the basic properties of the new battery (AGM vs flooded, cold start capacity, A/H) are the same as the old one?
My post above reflecting yesterday's experience

Here's what happened today:

Ignition on - prior to starting - 11.8 V Start & run (at highway speeds) for an hour - indicated voltage increased to 15.3V and stayed there.
Shut down for about 30 minutes.
Ignition on - prior to starting 12.0 V Start & run (higher highway speeds) for about 45 minutes - indicated voltage rose to 15.1 V and then about 40 minutes into the drive, dropped to 14.9 V and further to 14.0 V. Arrived home, shut everything down and waited 10 minutes - Ignition on 12.2 V!

I see two possibilities (1) The battery was partially sulphated and the drive cured it (some? all?) and (2) The alternator is dying.*

Current plan -done for the day - tomorrow I'll repeat today's excursion (a few gallons of gas are cheap compared to replacing a battery! A note re this latter possibility: My local (5 minutes away) Batteries + Bulbs has replacements - they list 3 corresponding to 3 "option" numbers that I can't decode.
All AGM
GP 49 92AH 850 CCA 13.9375L 6.875W 7.5H (all in inches)
GP 95R 105AH 950 CCA 15.5L " "
GP 94R 80AH 800CCA 12.4375L " "
From what I recall reading, the first my be the most likely candidate
And they claim to be able to reset the battery parameters

To be updated as data are available

* Still under CPO and there have been no battery codes
 

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12V automotive charging systems are constant voltage, however the ECU often controls the alternator output voltage between 12 to 14V, to compensate for temperature or high loads.
The battery draws a recharge current determined by its open circuit voltage, internal resistance, and the controlled alternator output voltage.

Different story for these battery maintainers: They charge with a constant current until the battery voltage rises to a trip threshold, which then causes the charger to change modes into a storage / maintenance mode, until the battery voltage drops back down (self discharge), over time, which then trips a lower threshold, setting the it back into charging mode.
 

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My post above reflecting yesterday's experience

Here's what happened today:

Ignition on - prior to starting - 11.8 V Start & run (at highway speeds) for an hour - indicated voltage increased to 15.3V and stayed there.
Shut down for about 30 minutes.
Ignition on - prior to starting 12.0 V Start & run (higher highway speeds) for about 45 minutes - indicated voltage rose to 15.1 V and then about 40 minutes into the drive, dropped to 14.9 V and further to 14.0 V. Arrived home, shut everything down and waited 10 minutes - Ignition on 12.2 V!

I see two possibilities (1) The battery was partially sulphated and the drive cured it (some? all?) and (2) The alternator is dying.*

Current plan -done for the day - tomorrow I'll repeat today's excursion (a few gallons of gas are cheap compared to replacing a battery! A note re this latter possibility: My local (5 minutes away) Batteries + Bulbs has replacements - they list 3 corresponding to 3 "option" numbers that I can't decode.
All AGM
GP 49 92AH 850 CCA 13.9375L 6.875W 7.5H (all in inches)
GP 95R 105AH 950 CCA 15.5L " "
GP 94R 80AH 800CCA 12.4375L " "
From what I recall reading, the first my be the most likely candidate
And they claim to be able to reset the battery parameters

To be updated as data are available

* Still under CPO and there have been no battery codes

IIRC, the Porsche New Car warranty covers the vehicle's battery if it proves to be defective. Do you believe your battery is showing defective behavior?
Is it still under warranty? Oops - I see it is not.

Further, the CPO warranty does not cover the vehicle's battery. If your Macan's original warranty has expired and you're on CPO, you're out of luck.

Additionally, the Porsche warranty states the vehicle must be driven a minimum number of miles (6500 comes to mind) annually, in part to assist in keeping the battery
charged and not sulfated. Is this Macan driven 6500+ miles annually?


And, lastly, this thread is entitled: Replacing and Registering the Battery. The more recent posts have wandered far off from the thread's subject.
It is sounding more like these posts belong in the Charging the Macan thread, with the increasing likelihood that is where they will be moved.

Forum Rule 3. Keep discussions on topic. [ edited for brevity ]​
 

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2018 Macan SE Agate Gray
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IIRC, the Porsche New Car warranty covers the vehicle's battery if it proves to be defective. Do you believe your battery is showing defective behavior?
Is it still under warranty? Oops - I see it is not.

Further, the CPO warranty does not cover the vehicle's battery. If your Macan's original warranty has expired and you're on CPO, you're out of luck.

Additionally, the Porsche warranty states the vehicle must be driven a minimum number of miles (6500 comes to mind) annually, in part to assist in keeping the battery
charged and not sulfated. Is this Macan driven 6500+ miles annually?


And, lastly, this thread is entitled: Replacing and Registering the Battery. The more recent posts have wandered far off from the thread's subject.
It is sounding more like these posts belong in the Charging the Macan thread, with the increasing likelihood that is where they will be moved.

Forum Rule 3. Keep discussions on topic. [ edited for brevity ]​
My car is a 2018 but the in-service date is 2019 - still under new car warranty - so, is my battery covered?
The car has over 40,000 miles on the clock - no problem
On topic? My posts have addressed two issues: How does one decide, absent an obvious system failure, if the battery is moribund and, should this be the case, what is required to replace it. The only reference to "charging" is observing the charging behavior on the in-car instruments for information on the former.
 

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2016 Macan Turbo
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The MFD voltage display will display the highest voltage it detects. As long as the MFD display is active, even if other things are switched off, there are lots of other things running which will cause a drop in the displayed voltage compared to an out-of-car / open circuit battery measurement. Don't be discouraged by that.

My iCarsoft POR V3.0 shows both simultaneously e.g. (not sure how it does that - see the photo below of my new battery's status).

When the car fires up, the alternator then is the highest voltage source and that is what you will see on the MFD.

None of this provides useful data to determine battery health (and the need for replacement - to keep this on topic). The open circuit number (equivalent to an out of car measurement) is an old school method but internal resistance / conductance derived State of Health appears to be the current gold standard for determining when to replace.

My Stop-Start was being overridden by the car on my old battery routinely. This will happen when SOH drops below 75% from what I have read. After charging up my old battery (removed) it reads 71% SOH, so that is consistent with it not being up to snuff. After 7-1/2 years, I'm ok with that. I'm less ok with the dealer wanting to rerplace it 3 years ago for about $750.
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My local O'reilly has three different sizes, on the shelf, for my '18. Cost is $240 no matter which you buy. Their site states for all three:

Difficult To Install Battery, Professional Installation Recommended; CCA: 850; CA: 975; RC: 170; AGM; Production Code; J0B; Production Run Code Is Used To Identify The Options Built Into A Vehicle; Battery Gasses Need To Be Vented To Outside; OE Used Various Size Batteries In Production; Check OE Battery For Size And Correct Fit; Vehicle Computer Must Be Reset And Battery Registered Using Scan Tool; AGM Battery Required; Battery Located In Trunk
I'll use test leads from my 12v power supply to the main terminals while I swap the new one in, and my POR to register it.
 

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I used the icarsoft POR V3.0 like this one
Thank you. So I'll get that one then. Hey, no need to input a serial number? Hope not, but just want to check, since I remember reading about that somewhere else. I'll definitely disconnect the battery with nothing else; that's probably why your car was 'confused' when you replaced it. Finally, the reason to reset the system is so it can fully charge the new battery, since it reduces the voltage as the battery gets older. So its not such a smart system after all. Ha ha. Just need to check Walmart to see what they carry, and the car, to see what's under there, to make sure I replace it with an identical one. Thank you for all your help :).
 

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Thank you. So I'll get that one then. Hey, no need to input a serial number? Hope not, but just want to check, since I remember reading about that somewhere else. I'll definitely disconnect the battery with nothing else; that's probably why your car was 'confused' when you replaced it. Finally, the reason to reset the system is so it can fully charge the new battery, since it reduces the voltage as the battery gets older. So its not such a smart system after all. Ha ha. Just need to check Walmart to see what they carry, and the car, to see what's under there, to make sure I replace it with an identical one. Thank you for all your help :).
Happy to help. If you purchase a diagnostic tool capable of registering the battery and choose not to, that is your choice. Personally, I chose to because:

1) It is a 60 second operation. It is super simple. To repeat previously learned info. the following must be entered:
  • AH rating - there is no controversy about what this is and it is clearly marked on the battery.
  • Battery type - should be AGM. (Must be, according to Porsche) Again no controversy here.
  • Serial number, sometimes referred to as Scanner code: This is a more interesting topic. Some registration tools like PIWIS, I believe, require a manufacturer code distinct from the serial number. The serial number on my Everstart battery started with 3 letters, very suggestive of Johnson Controls (Clarios), so I entered my serial number as those 3 letters, followed by a space, followed by 11 numbers ; 15 total, which is the required amount of characters to work. I suspect you can put any 15 character entry in this field, but I opted to put something actually accurate there so my dealer can see it if need be. Why not?
  • Part number: Here again, I suspect that any 11 characters would work. I used the Replacement Porsche part number, modified to reflect the 95 AH rating where a 92 previously resided in the number. This, so my dealer would see something familiar looking and hopefully not get bent out of shape seeing something foreign looking. Interestingly, Porsche and the battery makers use a different part number for a battery installed as OE versus the identical ones found in the replacement parts list. Does it matter? Probably not. You pick which 11 characters to use.

2) I am beginning to believe that the registration process, in addition to being a record-keeping operation, also resets the car's BMS so it can immediately start re-evaluating how it manages the battery versus slowly learning the state of the new battery while still being influenced by battery data for one longer installed. That can not be a bad thing. At the very least, you may recover some functions that were previously disabled by the BMS. Or, you may simply recover them faster. Not precisely sure which is the case. My Stop-Start functionality did not immediately return but in 5 miles of driving it did. This reinforces the notion that with old data cleared out, the new data on the healthy battery quickly influenced the BMS's decision making. It may also be helpful to clear any fault codes related to the old battery too to help this re-learning process along.

Thinking about all this, I am beginning to believe that the car's BMS constantly evaluates battery behavior using a variety of means (resistance, charging voltage, speed of charging, frequency of discharge and depth of discharge, duration of discharge, temperature inside and outside the battery case - I'm sure I'm missing a few. Regardless, I am thinking that it collects this data over time to come up with its SOH measurement. If it sees an outlier reading, it does not immediately panic. If it sees consistent behavior suggesting a declining SOH, then it starts influencing whether systems like Start-Stop, heated seats, and several others are available to use. One low open circuit voltage reading can mean many things and does not tell us anything about the SOH of the battery any more than a single out of context blood pressure reading does about our hearts.
 

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Awesome news; thank you very much. What I'll do is buy a 3' OptiMate weatherproof extension cord, cut it and pass it thru the grommet there, then join it back inside the battery compartment, so I don't have to make a big hole on the grommet. Then attach the end of the cable to the hitch (one of the chain slots) via its cap. Easy to access, and poses no thread in a crash. Now just need to get the iCarSoft gizmo, but with the version II rather than III, correct? To be able to both reset service maintenance warnings and code battery change. Thanks.
Forgot to mention..... iCarsoft POR V2.0 and 3.0 should now both work.

One concern though.... I am having trouble with 2 things related to iCarsoft.
a) Their V3.0 will not let me see the registered battery info.

b) I have tried everything, including reaching out to Barnett Davies at iCarsoft, who has replied twice with information that does not help. On the 3rd and last e-mail, he asked if I had been succesful and also asked me to record a log file of the steps to send to him. That is VERY concerning to me. Calls to the USA office are answered with a Chinese voice mail message followed by an English one. I have never reached a human at that number. Address is on K Street in Washington DC, an odd place for a US office selling automotive products. E-mail responses are always received during what would be normal office hours in China. i.e. this is a pure Chinese company with poor support. So far. I am continuing to try to get instructions on how to see the info I need. If I do not receive it, I will be returning the device. If I do receive it, I will amend this post.
 
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