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Everyone seems to always be referring to replacing either 92Ah or 105Ah batteries in their Macans...but my OE battery in my '17S is only 75Ah. It's size H7 (94r). In fact, it's the exact same battery as in my wife's '15 Q5 2.0L/ 4 cyl. Anybody know what's up with that? Why is my Macan battery so small compared to others?
Yes, the original 7 year old battery in my 2015 Macan S, is a 75Ah Varta. For precautionary reasons I'm about to replace it with another Varta, a G14 which is rated 95 Ah. The G14 has the same dimensions as the original battery so it's interesting that it's rated some 20 Ah higher.

There are various reasons why a battery can fail prematurely but the 75 Ah are perfectly adequate and even though I'm replacing mine, it's still capable of operating the stop-start system.

If your battery only lasted 20,000 miles [how old is it?] the most likely reasons would be:

* Short trips using the stop-start frequently where the battery doesn't get to recharge properly.

* Car sitting around for long periods of time without being used and without being connected to a battery charger/maintainer.

There is a slight advantage to fitting a larger battery but the biggest gains in longevity are made by ensuring that the battery stays at a high level of charge at all times. You might be better off not using stop-start if the car is not getting enough time to charge fully on short trips and you will definitely improve battery life by hooking the car up to a charger if the car is not in use for more than a few days.

Jules
 
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Just tried to program in a new Varta with the Autel maxidiag MD808pro and failed.

Used the steps suggested in #440 but the Autel would not allow that line of action.

I've contacted Autel, so if and when I get through the hoops I'll post here.

Jules
 
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Just replaced my 7 year old battery with a Diehard 105 amp. Used my Autel 808 Pro.
Use asterisks at the beginning and end of battery serial number, and when entering Porsche model number enter as a whole, no hyphens or periods. Easy!
 

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Just replaced my 7 year old battery with a Diehard 105 amp. Used my Autel 808 Pro.
Use asterisks at the beginning and end of battery serial number, and when entering Porsche model number enter as a whole, no hyphens or periods. Easy!
Thanks, different to #440 for sure.

There's a limit on the number of digits, 11 for the Porsche part no. and 15 for the serial no. The actual digits in the serial no. don't seem to be important but the Porsche part no. is tricky. Could I ask you what Porsche part no. you used?

Jules
 

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Registration of Varta successful using Autel MaxiDiag MD808 pro

Not sure why it failed the first time but I certainly used a slightly different process to that outlined in #440 plus I updated the Autel.

Steps ...

Service ---> BMS ---> location of car manufacture ---> car details ---> replace battery [I did not get a "battery change" option] ---> give details
Battery capacity; in this case 95 Ah
Battery technology; AGM
Serial number; actual Varta no. from sticker A22-G14-109-three more digits of your choice. Total 15 digits but as others have said the actual number probably don't matter.
Porsche part no: Gordon Gee has suggested that for a 92 Ah battery the part no. is 958-611-092-21 and by deduction the part no. for a 95 Ah would be 958-611-095-21. Total 11 digits and this worked for me. I wonder if the ECU can compare the battery capacity rating with the part number?

"Finish" on each step and "finish" when all the fields are full and have been accepted.

#440 has a final image saying "function terminated" which doesn't seem right. The final screen should give you a message that the installation has been completed successfully.

Initially I was a bit reluctant to go with "replace battery" which I thought might mean remove and replace existing battery. Reading the small print it's clear this is not the case BUT I'm left wondering what steps you take when you do disconnect and reconnect an existing battery as there doesn't seem to be a path to do this on the Autel, unless you just re-insert the data you put in when you first install the battery [if you still have it 😏]

It might be worth recording which numbers you use when you install a new battery, particularly if you make them up, because if you re-install an old battery with new numbers there could be a chance that it will be recognized as "new" and charged accordingly. But, as with everything related to this ridiculous process ... nobody outside Porsche knows for sure.

Jules
 

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Thanks, different to #440 for sure.

There's a limit on the number of digits, 11 for the Porsche part no. and 15 for the serial no. The actual digits in the serial no. don't seem to be important but the Porsche part no. is tricky. Could I ask you what Porsche part no. you used?

Jules
958 611 105 21
 

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Even after reading a lot of postings on the subject, I'm still convinced that replacing with the same type and capacity doesn't technically require any "registration"
I agree with you, if an original battery is used, there is the need to insert the new s/n, but if not, just change the last digit or type random numbers.
Important settings are type of battery and A that obviously will be the same as before
 

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Everyone seems to always be referring to replacing either 92Ah or 105Ah batteries in their Macans...but my OE battery in my '17S is only 75Ah. It's size H7 (94r). In fact, it's the exact same battery as in my wife's '15 Q5 2.0L/ 4 cyl. Anybody know what's up with that? Why is my Macan battery so small compared to others?

I can replace with a like-for-like battery but with 80Ah rather than 75Ah (Exide, Bosch, Interstate/ Johnson Control/Clarios brands)...or should I be upgrading to a larger battery all together? H8/49 @ 92Ah or 105Ah?

May be this explains why my start/stop stopped working after 20K miles.
Update: I ultimately replaced the OE Varta H7 75Ah with a Costco/Interstate H8 95Ah battery. I would be remiss if I didn't call out this pinned- post on how to code the battery using iCarsoft POR V2.0. Process worked perfectly. DIY Battery Replacement
 

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Here’s my scenario: I just replaced my battery at 70k miles. Went to local Independent service place specializing in German brands. Half the price of dealer — battery was $235 and registering battery was $180. I’m not a DIYer so this was next best solution. I did have to go back as my auto up/down on windows had to be reset but very pleased.
 

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I suspect you are right. As a comparison my house is off-grid with a very large AGM battery bank and solar panels regulated by a "box" which allows me to read and adjust pretty much any parameter I want to, at any time. Within this system I can remove and replace any number of batteries without the need for any sort of coding. I can't see any reason why the Porsche regulation system would overcharge a new battery, treating it as though it was an old battery and ignoring the voltage/current feedback messages that should limit charging to the same set voltages at each stage of charging. In these systems the battery "tells" the regulator what it needs, rather than the other way around.

The main reason for registration would seem to be that, if it's done by a dealer with PIWIS, it allows that dealer [and Porsche central :)] to maintain a record of the battery that is fitted both for service reasons and in case there's some sort of dispute between dealer and owner about where, when or by whom the battery has been replaced. [not to mention making a tidy profit out of each battery swap]

It's odd that this issue is so shrouded in secrecy when so many modern cars are on the bandwagon.

Jules
Bear in mind that the Macan Model has several trims, different engines, hundreds of different options to choose from, and it's sold in many markets/countries.
Having enough power on the battery is crucial for this vehicles, they rely on in to run most of its systems, and the alternator is the same on a few models and they can come with a more powerful alternator in some parts of the world, so it makes sense that the car needs to know which battery it has installed.
Now, it is 100% necessary to code it even when you replace it for the exact same battery? In my personal experience, after having replaced dozens of batteries I'll say no, as far as the battery is the same it will charge it the correct way.
 

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No reasonable individual should expect an establishment (or a government!) to furnish goods and/or services for free. Having been in corporate management and owning my own business, I can tell you that profit is paramount to survival. However, once a customer discovers that they've been overcharged, the repercussion can be disasterous because word travels fast. One dissatified customer can influence far more people than one who is reasonably satisfied.
 
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Off topic posts have been moved to a relevant thread.
ONCE Again, OT posts moved to Complaints


Feel free to complain all you want about the cost of battery registration or why you need to do it in Complaints. The purpose of this thread is mostly DIY. Future OT posts in this thread will be deleted without being moved.
 

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I replaced my OEM battery a week ago. Now I just realized that I lost the window 1-touch up/down feature. Upon searching the forum, I found how to reset the 1-touch up feature but not the 1-touch down feature. Anyone knows how to reset window 1-touch down?

On another note, I noticed that when driving on the highway at around 75 mph my alternator charging voltage shown on the display now becomes 13.7v. Immediately before the battery replacement I clearly remembered it was 14.7v. Does that mean the alternator automatically reduced its charging voltage on the new battery?
I finally got to register the new battery after 4 months. The problem I had was my iPad couldn‘t connect with my MaxiAP-200 BT dongle (bought from Amazon for $40) via Bluetooth reliably and it constantly dropped the connection during the BMS operation.

Eventually I tried my iPhone and it worked flawlessly. Only 4 inputs I needed to enter: Ah, battery type, serial # and Porsche part #. I think only the first 2 is really useful (mine was 95 and AGM). The latter 2 you can enter any number as long as they are the correct length/digits.

Just checked Amazon. The MaxiAP200 costs $70 now.

 

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I need someone to school me on the whole battery registration thing.

My 2016 Macan S has low battery voltage (12v or so when off). The system shows around 14.5 - 14.7 with the engine running and warmed up. But I don't know if the issue is the battery itself being on the way out, or the Macan's charging system trying to do something clever because it knows it's an old battery.

I am tempted to trickle charge the battery until it's full and then see if it will stay full. If I disconnect it, and reconnect it without registration, will the Macan assume that it's a new battery, and start charging it differently, or will it think it's the old one and go back to not charging it properly?
 

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I need someone to school me on the whole battery registration thing.

My 2016 Macan S has low battery voltage (12v or so when off). The system shows around 14.5 - 14.7 with the engine running and warmed up. But I don't know if the issue is the battery itself being on the way out, or the Macan's charging system trying to do something clever because it knows it's an old battery.

I am tempted to trickle charge the battery until it's full and then see if it will stay full. If I disconnect it, and reconnect it without registration, will the Macan assume that it's a new battery, and start charging it differently, or will it think it's the old one and go back to not charging it properly?
Never trickle charge an AGM. Use a smartcharger. It is charging properly and is likely the battery is sulphated. Put it on a battery tester and find the SOH. 6 year old battery probably need a new one. Get out your checkbook.
 

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Never trickle charge an AGM. Use a smartcharger. It is charging properly and is likely the battery is sulphated. Put it on a battery tester and find the SOH. 6 year old battery probably need a new one. Get out your checkbook.
Could you clarify what you mean by a smartcharger? By "trickle charge" I just mean low current. How could that be bad for a battery?

Also, what exactly does the car do with the serial number when you register a battery? I doubt it decodes anything from it, since you have to enter the other details (aH) separately. And it obviously doesn't have a database where it can look up info about that battery. The only purpose I can think of is that it uses it to know if it's a new battery, or the same one you had before. But then the serial number is totally unnecessary for that too. So what's if for?
 

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Could you clarify what you mean by a smartcharger? By "trickle charge" I just mean low current. How could that be bad for a battery?

Also, what exactly does the car do with the serial number when you register a battery? I doubt it decodes anything from it, since you have to enter the other details (aH) separately. And it obviously doesn't have a database where it can look up info about that battery. The only purpose I can think of is that it uses it to know if it's a new battery, or the same one you had before. But then the serial number is totally unnecessary for that too. So what's if for?
The registration of the battery is solely for if you use the Auto Start/Stop system on the Macan. If you don’t use this system you can probably just replace the battery and never tell the difference.
 

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Could you clarify what you mean by a smartcharger? By "trickle charge" I just mean low current. How could that be bad for a battery?
Sure. Trickle chargers usually never shut off. These are AGM batteries, not the older lead acid batteries. They want to be charged at 14.7V, not 14.4V. You can start by reading this massive thread


and watching this video


smart chargers will go to some kind of pulse mode only sending a boost when needed.

Further, AGM batteries ALWAYS want to be fully charged. Read your warranty, regardless if the car is out of warranty. They warn you. Not driving, plug it in.

Also, what exactly does the car do with the serial number when you register a battery?
And that is exactly why this thread exists. I'm guessing today, with inflation, its close to $1000 to get a new battery from a dealer and have them register. You can read the arguments in this and other threads. The arguements have gone on since 2012, when the first AGM went into a Porsche. AGM did come with start/stop. I would ignore the cynics. Want an answer, ask Porsche AG, not your dealer, but the car maker. Let us know what they say ;)
 
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