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I have the following:
Costco Interstate Battery
CTEK trickle charger
MD808 Pro

Before starting, I would appreciate confirming what I need to use for the Part # and Serial #?

Thanks in advance to those who have already done it.
 

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I have the following:
Costco Interstate Battery
CTEK trickle charger
MD808 Pro

Before starting, I would appreciate confirming what I need to use for the Part # and Serial #?

Thanks in advance to those who have already done it.
It does not matter what you enter in those fields. I merely put in nonsensical strings of numbers, and it accepted them.

As mentioned before by myself and others, there’s no way the car is going to have the capability to recognize valid and invalid part and serial numbers. For example, part numbers will almost certainly change in the future, and there would be no way for the car to recognize what is valid.

I believe the reason that part and serial numbers are requested is so technicians working on the car in the future can see the car’s history of battery replacements and how old the current battery is. There is not as much going on here as some people seem to think there is.
 

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Agree and one can look at the Label on the battery itself to tell the mfg month/year of any car battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #784
I called Bosch (cannot seem to email them) Asked on voicemail what AGM they sell to replace the discontinued 49850BAGM.

Got message that they have S6588B

L&W seem very close & do not see a value for H.
Ah = 95 so a bit higher than the 92Ah in the 49850BAGM.
Has 4 year warranty which is better than Interstate.
I cannot tell from the photos if the + terminal is on the Right side when label faces you. This is how it was with the 49850BAGM.
I do not know the cost.
I can't find a store online or local that sells it.
Their website directed me to: Walmart, PepBoys & Advance Auto Parts.
None carry it.
I will call Boesch during business hours when I have time.

I heard that no Costco in Phoenix or nearby have Interstate in stock & the Interstate distributor apparently increased price from $233 last February to $274 now. (3rd hand information so YMMV)

That old Bosch used to be <$150 @ Pepboys but, I think it was Internet sale.

I like Bosch AGM bc I have it in my rarely driven Jag & I almost never charge it & still SOH was 89% after 3 years when I last checked it last month.
 

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one can look at the Label on the battery itself to tell the mfg month/year of any car battery.
Yes, but it does not tell you the actual installation date. Battery dealers should be rotating stock, but I know from experience it does not always happen. In the past when shopping for batteries at Walmart and Pep Boys I have found some on the shelf to be more than a year past their manufacture date. And sometimes the oldest batteries are buried in the back. Definitely makes sense to pay attention when selecting one.

Also, I would assume if a technician is trying to diagnose electrical system problems it could be valuable for him or her to know if the car has repeatedly needed a new battery at relatively short intervals.
 

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Okay, I did the battery change this afternoon with Costco Interstate and had a minor nervous breakdown in the process. I followed all the steps outlined in this thread and plugged in my CTEK trickle charger in cigarette lighter.

Prior to swap, ran Diagnostic test of DME using Auto Scan and had no faults.
After swap, ran Battery Management System (BMS) to install using Autel 808 Pro. Worked fine.
Started up car and BAM!.
Bunch of fault errors:
Trunk wouldn't close
Transmission Fault (02)
Instrument Cluster Fault (01)
PCM/CDR Fault (01)
Level Control/PASM Fault (01)
Front End Electronics Fault (01)
Rear End Electronics Fault (01)

Further detail showed Transmission had:
Selector Lever Signal Line electrical Fault
Shift-Lock Solenoid Valve - Short circuit to ground
along with several other faults that mentioned battery failure.
And to top it off the Radio stopped working.

I was freaked out and upset that I had not seen any of these experiences so thought that I royally screwed up.

I then manually closed the trunk. From that point, it worked perfectly.
Then I used the Auto 808 Pro and Erased all of the DME Codes. None repeated.

Finally, after googling reset radio, I found that if I held the Info button on the radio, it reset. Volume now works fine.

So, I am 100% okay for the moment but I don't recommend doing this without Autel 808 Pro or equivalent. None of my settings were erased so I am not sure if that was luck or the CTEK.

Hope this helps the next person.

Fingers crossed that all of the issues have resolved themselves.

After 3 days, my car is running just fine. No problems.

Good luck.
 

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Since you have the Autel 808 Pro did you register the new battery? Probably better just to swap the battery without plugging in anything in the cig socket.
 

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Since you have the Autel 808 Pro did you register the new battery? Probably better just to swap the battery without plugging in anything in the cig socket.
Well, I thought that I read that a trickle charger was advisable. My bad.

Yes, I was easily able to register the new battery with the Autel 808 Pro. That was the easiest part of the project.
 

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You need a charger that’s specially designed for that.
 

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You need a special charger capable of doing that, not any random trickle charger.
 

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Unless you're working on the airbag, keeping (I use a 9v battery contraption I built for this purpose) a small charge to not lose settings can't harm anything as when you register the battery you will overwriting whatever data was in there and not affecting other settings.

Where things of course take a turn is all the OTHER variables that are stored in ROM in the vehicle which may lose consciousness (depending on how it takes to do the swap) creating confusion everywhere as you encountered.

When my battery imploded back in February (long write up on rennlist) and the CTEK managed after 4 days to revive it I also had errors all over and the hatch wouldn't close. Once I closed it manually and reset all DTCs things quieted down.

I thus don't think you plugging in your CTEK had any noxious effects in the process.

siberian
 
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Discussion Starter #793
@atwnsw, What model CTEK did you use? Was it CTEK MULTI US 7002?
"Unique Supply and Recond mode
The Supply mode serves as a power supply unit that can run 12V equipment up to 7A. When changing a battery, important settings will therefore not be lost."

CTEK Multi US 7002
I had emailed CTEK last year to ask if my MUS 4.3 would supply power during a battery swap & the answer was ...No! They said I would need the 7002 model for that purpose.

My current plans for when I DIY battery change is to use my JNC770, which specifically states it has a power supply function.
 

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The difficulty with many chargers, even "smart" ones with umpteen stages, is that they can deliver voltages in excess of 15V into open circuits, while the capacitance of a battery will limit this when connected to the charger. I have no idea what sensitivities the Porsche electrical system might have but 15V could easily be something it would find offensive.

If you can deliver a controlled 12V DC to the terminals under the hood it should be safer. A 12V car battery and a set of jumper leads should be ok, given that's what the terminals are apparently there for.

12V chargers aren't really 12V :)
 

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If there's such concern for this (I can't believe a GERMAN engineer wouldn't have allowed for this), and for those of you who remember Radio Shack, you can use a desktop 12v DC generator connected to your charge port. Personally I wouldn't worry about it; the CTEK's are well built "with you in mind".

In my case earlier last year the battery simply deflated to like 6v or something IIRR. On reconstruction I could see how the electrical system protected itself as it lost power... sort of like watching HAL in the cult movie 2001:A Space Odyssey, "I'm losing my mind Dave", as Capt. Bowman disconnected HAL's higher functions. One after another systems shutdown starting by the non-essentials (like the HU, the myriads of sensors...), until at the end only the core was left like the body of a person in an ice lake; survival shuts down all non-essential functions shunting all energy (and warmth) to the heart to keep blood flowing.

Once a flutter of life was seen after 54 hours on the CTEK, and closing the hatch manually I was able to start the car and going through the DTC log I saw all the systems that had shut down due to the power loss. The Porsche electrical system is very complex and robust, I doubt you need a specialized maintainer when changing out the battery to save your data.

siberian
 

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Discussion Starter #799
I was using the CTEK MXS 5.0
I just checked the PDF manual from the Amazon page. This CTEK does NOT do what you wanted it to do. Supply Voltage. I think that is why you had the issues.
 

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sort of like watching HAL in the cult movie 2001:A Space Odyssey, "I'm losing my mind Dave", as Capt. Bowman disconnected HAL's higher functions. One after another systems shutdown starting by the non-essentials (like the HU, the myriads of sensors...), until at the end only the core was left like the body of a person in an ice lake
Great image! Impossible for us mortals to ever understand the brain of a Porsche but equally, it can be a bit stupid at times.
 
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