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This post has taken an interesting turn, in that it is suggested you can just put in an equivalent AGM battery and skip the ridiculous registration step and cost at the dealer, and the car will be just fine. I have the auto stop feature permanently off anyway by programming it into the key as off. So it's never used, and could care less if it works or not with a non-registered battery. Looking at the battery installation video, it took the guy about 10 minutes tops using one arm only, with one arm holding a camera in the other hand, to replace it in the trunk.

But just swapping in a new quality battery without registration and the car will be all ok....is it all true????
 

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Did the start / stop function only become available on later model years? It is on my 2017 so it can't be that new. I'm somewhat amazed and amused that the (should be) simple task of replacing a battery on a Macan still has so many issues unresolved.
 

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Some observations perhaps relevant to this thread:

1) I enjoy learning about battery registration, just on general principles.

I never had a top-end car before -- BMW, Audi, Porsche, MB, Jag, etc. -- and so knew nothing about all this.

2) I have Auto Stop/Start turned off, 99.9%+ of the time.

This is the first car I've owned with this feature, and I'm grateful that Porsche (at least on some? all? models) allows this "off" state to be carried over between rides.

The very rare times I Auto Stop/Start -- just a few times a year, maybe in long car-wash lines, or mostly-stopped stop-and-go traffic jams -- it deactivates itself in pretty short order. That is, maybe I have the A/C or the heater on, or the lights, or something, and the programming decides to be pretty conservative (IMO) regarding working the battery, and idles the engine anyway. And I think my battery is in good shape.

So, to me, I'm not very concerned with how well a battery handles the Auto Stop/Start work, because I hardly use that function, and when I do it doesn't seem to work very well, anyway, with the stock, registered, battery.

3) I like the comment from @wwahl, a few posts ago, about buying multiple non-registered batteries for the price of one registered battery.

4) Two+ years down the road now, I keep a lithium backup battery in the trunk, for emergencies. (It was a birthday present last month, from a friend.)

If I ever really need a new battery, I'm still not sure what I'll do. Getting a little old to be doing much DIY work on the car.

So keep those cards and letters coming, interesting thread ...
 

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I also like the idea of replacing and not registering...my concerns though would be that does the charging algorithm still have the alternator charge at a higher level since it still thinks the car might have a 2 or 3 year old battery installed - possible extra strain on the alternator and/or overcharging of new battery. I'm sure I'm overthinking this.
 

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..my concerns though would be that does the charging algorithm still have the alternator charge at a higher level since it still thinks the car might have a 2 or 3 year old battery installed - possible extra strain on the alternator and/or overcharging of new battery. I'm sure I'm overthinking this.
No, you're not overthinking it. You are right. Those thinking its cheaper to buy two Costco batteries couldl be crying when they get the bill for a new alternator in a Porsche. You all know how much that cost?

There are many people who consider all dealerships - stealerships. The service end of the business is where they money is made, not in new car sales. Treat your dealership right and they will treat you right. They are humans beings. Treat them like dirt, then don't expect much help in return. That does not mean you have to buy a Porsche branded part like their washer fluid when you can get the same thing aftermarket. There is a lot going on here

From Excellence

AGM battery replacement must be coupled with “registering” the battery replacement with a factory-level scan tool, or battery life will be severely shortened.
That has been extensively discussed here. What hasn't been discussed is the cost of the alternator or other electronic components of the car. Read your warranty. If you don't use authorized Porsche parts, then its your dime if something else breaks because of not following authorized procedures. IOW, this is not 1968. You can't just go down to your local auto parts store and throw anything on the car without registering it. Don't believe it? Read this. This is the story of a 987.2 battery registration, which is BEFORE AGM was used in Porsches. I know some will ignore it. Its your peril to ignore


You can read it yourself but the story is an independent Interstate dealer had no idea what he was doing touching this car and almost made a $4500 part toast, and that was in 2015. Caveat Emptor.

Now why don't the third party computers handle Porsche so well. Renntech is a great resource for the technical issues:


Simple answer from a mod. Its really a numbers game. How many BMWs are made and how made Porsches. Niche company, not worth the effort. Whats the ROI on the investment? This website is a bit harder to read because of the huge print but worth a look


For those who don't like to read, here's a video


The way I look at this you can buy three super batteries for the price of one visit to the dealer. If you already turn off that start/stop debacle what's to lose?
Let us know how much that new alternator costs, installed, if it breaks. Good luck.

Did the start / stop function only become available on later model years? .
Start/Stop began with the 991/981 cars, late 2011 or early 2012.

Two+ years down the road now, I keep a lithium backup battery in the trunk, for emergencies. (It was a birthday present last month, from a friend.)
You mean a jump pack? That won't do anything if the alternator is toast.

But enough dire warnings. People do whatever people do. Despite warnings the young are partying and ignoring this pandemic. The price comes later and they will always be naysayers.
 

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...
You mean a jump pack? That won't do anything if the alternator is toast.
...
Yep, one of those Noco lithium batteries.

I'll probably go to the dealership when I need a battery. I've gone to them for everything else -- 10K, 20K, 30K, and now scheduled the 40K service, and tires and wheels -- so my guess is that I'll continue to do so. I've already accepted that you have to pay to play, buying a P-car.
 

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It’s almost impossible that the system charges a battery based on its age alone, i.e., new or old battery. More logical way is based on the battery overall condition, in addition to its age.

Age alone simply cannot determine the battery condition. One example is a one year old Taxi will have a much “older“ (used) battery than a 3-year old garage queen’s battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #509
...And I think my battery is in good shape....
How do you know?

I suspect most people think their car battery is fine until it fails to start the car.

Do you drive at least 20 miles several times per week, not all stop & go? Even better is some freeway driving & road trips. Do you use a battery tender when the car is not driven for several days? This apparently is a must if the car sits for extended times. (Maybe 1 week? Maybe 2 weeks?) Have you tested the battery voltage at the jump start points using a multimeter?
I think old style flooded lead acid batteries give you warning signs such as slow crank b4 they fail but IDK if always true, especially if battery is marginal & then you have a cold snap & it may "suddenly" fail to start.
I have read that AGM batteries can suddenly fail after a certain amount of time w/o the typical warnings. (I don't recall where I read this but I also carry a jump starter in case)
 

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Discussion Starter #510
I think the Macan computer does need to know; new battery, AGM type, Ah capacity.
If you can program that, for example with Autel MD808 Pro, I think you will not have shorter battery life or ruin your alternator. I doubt the serial # is important unless you cannot proceed w/o entering something that the tool accepts & allows you to finish the registration/programming.
alessia3 detailed these steps with photos:
He said in post #445:
"Apart from capacity (Ah) and technology, I dont't think a battery charger needs more input.
Autel (i.e. the car) asks for these serial and part numbers (autel dont' ask for battery brand), but you can type whatsoever in these fields, the result is always "OK" (as you see from my screenshots).
Instead, I think these information are stored in memory for Porsche after sale services ("Porsche approved" program and similar)."

My plan is to use a replacement AGM battery with the same Ah capacity & a 4 year 100% replacement warranty (Bosch which I detailed elsewhere on MF)
 

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I have read that AGM batteries can suddenly fail after a certain amount of time w/o the typical warnings.
I support these questions. I was told about 2011 or so when I needed a new battery that AGM batteries failed suddenly. The do not exhibit the characteristics for the older wet cell batteries we are used to. A couple of articles on this:




I assume deep cycle but still AGM
 

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Discussion Starter #513
I will have a good idea in a few years since I have AGM batteries in 2 Porsche & I changed my old flooded battery to an AGM in my 20 year old Jaguar which is not S/S & doesn't have close to the computer draw of my newer Porsches.

The oldest Macan's are how old now? 5 years?
I wonder how many MF members still have their MY2015 & the original battery & if they do, how many & what type of miles do they drive?

My guesses the ones who put on a lot of miles & long drives, not stop & go, can have their AGM batteries last many years... 6 or 7 maybe. But, I'm guessing.
 

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My 2015 S is 5 years old next week and has just over 38k miles. It is a garage queen, only driven on weekends. But I made sure to drive it on the freeway for at least 15-20 mins, so no short trips.

Since day one S/S has been permanently disabled. I drive in Sport mode 90% of the time anyway. The battery seems to be still strong as car always starts on first crank.

It should at least last a few more years.
 

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The fact you always use sport is good, watch your voltmeter in both modes

The fact it always starts means nothing. AFAIK AGM fails suddenly unlike wet cell batteries
 

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How do you know?

I suspect most people think their car battery is fine until it fails to start the car.

Do you drive at least 20 miles several times per week, not all stop & go? Even better is some freeway driving & road trips. Do you use a battery tender when the car is not driven for several days? This apparently is a must if the car sits for extended times. (Maybe 1 week? Maybe 2 weeks?) Have you tested the battery voltage at the jump start points using a multimeter?
I think old style flooded lead acid batteries give you warning signs such as slow crank b4 they fail but IDK if always true, especially if battery is marginal & then you have a cold snap & it may "suddenly" fail to start.
I have read that AGM batteries can suddenly fail after a certain amount of time w/o the typical warnings. (I don't recall where I read this but I also carry a jump starter in case)
Of course, I don't know, which is why I said "I think." I based that guess, assumption, etc., on our having 39,000+ miles on the car in 29 months, so I think we've kept the alternator busy. I did put a smart charger on it overnight once. And, as I'm sure you recall, did some multimeter tests at the jump point.

And that the battery is getting a good workout, and is only 2-something years old. I've had lots of AGM batteries on bikes before, and they typically last about five years.

So, yep, as you imply: nothing definitive there, no certainty. But since you asked, that's why I wrote that "I think my battery is in good shape."
 

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Car manufactures would love it every single maintenance procedure on a car had to be done at a dealership to create a closed loop system, both with parts and labor. Creating this battery "registration" system from the start as a stratetic design decision is a great way to force people to dealerships, where people would get acquainted with a dealership's service department at a time in the vehicle's lifespan where more repairs will be needed, maybe get other work done while it's in the shop, introduce a new routine/habit with many owners, and have customers browse the new merchandise on the lot to sell more new cars.

Brilliant really, but pretty much a complete scam. Batteries inconveniently go out all the time when you're nowhere near a dealership nor want to pay extreme markups, especially at a Porsche dealership. They could design the car just fine to pop in a new like-kind battery and skip the registration process and absolutely everything would be fine with the vehicle, as it's been done forever. One of those situations where we don't have enough owner data yet to know whether we can safely circumvent the trap or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #518
...I've had lots of AGM batteries on bikes before, and they typically last about five years...
When these AGM batteries failed, did they fail suddenly or give you warning signs, as do most flooded lead acid batteries?
 

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When these AGM batteries failed, did they fail suddenly or give you warning signs, as do most flooded lead acid batteries?
Alas, as suggested by various sites, it was pretty much a sudden thing.

And I've been using smart chargers on my bikes for decades, every day -- not just in the off-season -- when not away on multi-day trips. See this DIY gallery I put up c. 8 years ago, on adding an outlet for smart-charging; it has pictures and explanatory captions, including how I used Hellmann's® Real Mayonnaise as part of the project:


Once I was returning from a multi-day trip -- I think this was c. 2005 -- when an AGM battery would no longer start my six-cylinder Honda Valkyrie. I remember making sure that whenever I stopped (for gas, mostly) it would be at the top of a slope. That way, to get going again, I could coast downhill, and pop into second gear, to fire up the engine.
 

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When these AGM batteries failed, did they fail suddenly or give you warning signs, as do most flooded lead acid batteries?
Alas, as suggested by various sites, it was pretty much a sudden thing.
About 10 years ago, when my Cayman battery died, I had heard about AGM batteries and asked about changing from wet cell to AGM and the Dealer said he was going to advise against it because people knew when a wet cell battery was dying. You've lived all your life with it. You just know. But AGMs just "died" unexpectedly so he advised not doing it.
 
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