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Had my under tray off a couple of weeks ago doing some cleaning and noticed some oil. My first thought was timing cover, oh sh**. Looking closer with a mirror it looked like hydraulic belt tensioner.

I guess I spent at least an hour looking at it, heartbroken, and cursing Porsche for not being able to make a tensioner that would last more than 23,000 km. I continued to look and think about how or even if it would be possible to replace it without removing bumper etc as I saw in another post, I’m far to lazy for that if it could be avoided.

To start with it needed the long bolt from the tensioner to be able to be removed before it contacted the radiator and belt removal, more thinking.
I ordered both bolts from Porsche and placed the long bolt head to head with the lower tensioner bolt, enough radiator clearance and also didn’t contract the fan assembly, 1st hurdle overcome.
Loosen both tensioner bolts a little. Yes, it’s possible. Order tensioner.

Removing belt necessities compressing the tensioner which I did with a long fat square well used screwdriver to lever the belt across the a/c and allow the insertion of special macan tool 95B-007.01 fabricated using the TLAR method of engineering. 2nd hurdle overcome.

Then remove loosened belt at the alternator ( pulley with blue paint mark in picture) and guide pulley near alternator , once belt is off wiggle out special tool, unscrew bolts, now finger tight, and remove tensioner.

I partially removed the drive belt, but not totally to see if it would be possible to completely remove and change the belt when the time comes, it would be.

I used a large hose clamp to compress the tensioner, as it would need to be compressed when refitted to be able to refit the belt.
A quick clean and reassemble. The long bolt is easy to refit. The short not so, my wife’s hands would be a much better size for this task.
I wound string around the short top bolt and used a extending magnet to place in the tensioner, pushed it into the thread with a long thin screwdriver and pulled the string to get the bolt started.
Tighten bolts, TFAR tensioning, and refit belt, loosen and remove hose clamp, refit under tray, DONE.
Just on 2 hours, doing it a second time maybe as quick as 1 1/2. Tensioner only, belt a little longer.
After looking at the other guide pulleys, I’m sure they could be replaced as well.

I used a long 10 mm flex head ratcheting ring spanner and a T50 torx bit hammered into the ring with a piece of cloth so it would not fall out.

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Rrrrrkkkkk
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Agreed. Love to see threads like this. It's what this forum is all about.
 

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Great job showing tools used and where it was applied. Pics are worth more than a thousand words here.
 

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This is gold. Have to replace my tensioner here soon too. I can hear it chirping at idle
 

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This is gold. Have to replace my tensioner here soon too. I can hear it chirping at idle
I hear the chirping sound at idle also, and I am under warranty. Can I expect the dealer will replace it no charge, or are they more likely to tell me there’s nothing wrong? Anyone have any experience with this?
 

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I hear the chirping sound at idle also, and I am under warranty. Can I expect the dealer will replace it no charge, or are they more likely to tell me there’s nothing wrong? Anyone have any experience with this?
I would just go and see what they say. You won’t know till you try! I’m out of warranty at 78k miles...so this is a good diy type thing.
 
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As the guy who pulled the front cradle I changed the belt and all the pulleys in 20 minutes. So there. And it was easy. No special tools needed


it took me a day to pull the cradle and a day to put it back. And my headlights are still misaligned. Could probably do it again in 6-8 hours. So there’s that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As the guy who pulled the front cradle I changed the belt and all the pulleys in 20 minutes. So there. And it was easy. No special tools needed


it took me a day to pull the cradle and a day to put it back. And my headlights are still misaligned. Could probably do it again in 6-8 hours. So there’s that.
Stop. Enough. You are making me truly envious, all that time spent in intimate contact with your 1st love, or maybe your 2nd love. All the pleasure you received from lovingly attending to her every need.
Next time I’ll do it your way, just for the enjoyment, the satisfaction, the time together .......
or maybe not.
 

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I would just go and see what they say. You won’t know till you try! I’m out of warranty at 78k miles...so this is a good diy type thing.
Thanks. One concern I have is they are going to tell me nothing is wrong and then hit me with a diagnostic charge.

Had an Infiniti SUV that needed part of the exhaust system replaced, and the only way to have the exhaust outlet look like it did when new was to use genuine Infiniti parts. The places I had checked out like Midas apparently were using generic parts that would do the job, but didn’t quite match the OEM installation, and I was curious how much more it would cost to have the job done using genuine Infiniti parts.

So I stopped in at the Infiniti dealer, told them exactly what was needed and asked them to give me a price. They put the car up on the lift to verify what I told them, and after about 5 minutes gave me some absurd price that I said no thank you to. Then they told me I owed them a $75 diagnostic charge, and when I made a fuss over it, they told me they would not give me my car back unless I paid it. Needless to say, I will never step foot in that dealership again.
 

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Stop. Enough. You are making me truly envious, all that time spent in intimate contact with your 1st love, or maybe your 2nd love. All the pleasure you received from lovingly attending to her every need.
Next time I’ll do it your way, just for the enjoyment, the satisfaction, the time together .......
or maybe not.
If you want to do it, I made a thread of the process. I think it is a short 56 steps.

FYI. The dealer wanted $1200 to change the belt and pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When compressing the tensioner fit the hose clamp and bend to shape. Then put in a vice and slowly compress, tightening the clamp at the same time. Make sure to keep the clamp on centre line of the tensioner . The tensioner has an engine side and a bolt head side. It could be fitted either way but one way is incorrect. In the picture with the hose clamp this is the side the bolts go in . Also fit the clamp on the opposite side to the picture, so the worm of the clamp is towards the crankshaft. ( I changed it after taking the picture).
232201
 

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When compressing the tensioner fit the hose clamp and bend to shape. Then put in a vice and slowly compress, tightening the clamp at the same time. Make sure to keep the clamp on centre line of the tensioner . The tensioner has an engine side and a bolt head side. It could be fitted either way but one way is incorrect. In the picture with the hose clamp this is the side the bolts go in . Also fit the clamp on the opposite side to the picture, so the worm of the clamp is towards the crankshaft. ( I changed it after taking the picture). View attachment 232201
When compressing the tensioner fit the hose clamp and bend to shape. Then put in a vice and slowly compress, tightening the clamp at the same time. Make sure to keep the clamp on centre line of the tensioner . The tensioner has an engine side and a bolt head side. It could be fitted either way but one way is incorrect. In the picture with the hose clamp this is the side the bolts go in . Also fit the clamp on the opposite side to the picture, so the worm of the clamp is towards the crankshaft. ( I changed it after taking the picture).
 

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Looks like you did this underneath the engine. Anyone tried going in from the top? I’m going to try. Here’s my plan. Remove front fascia, headlights, cross bar at front of engine, air inlets. Freaks me out to start a bolt without turning it by hand. Great post btw. Wish me luck. I’ll take plenty of pictures and will share results. Will also change serpentine belt while I’m in there.
 

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Brisoca, my compliments on your outstanding procedure which will undoubtedly save hours of labor and considerable monetary outlay. Being an engineer, I'm somewhat dense. I'd very much appreciate your expounding on this description:
"Removing belt necessities compressing the tensioner which I did with a long fat square well used screwdriver to lever the belt across the a/c and allow the insertion of special macan tool 95B-007.01 fabricated using the TLAR method of engineering. 2nd hurdle overcome".
Prying the belt off does compress the tensioner. Where is the 95B-007.01 tool inserted and what is its function? Can you clarify? Perhaps a schematic of the various components of the belt drive would be helpful. TIA
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Brisoca, my compliments on your outstanding procedure which will undoubtedly save hours of labor and considerable monetary outlay. Being an engineer, I'm somewhat dense. I'd very much appreciate your expounding on this description:
"Removing belt necessities compressing the tensioner which I did with a long fat square well used screwdriver to lever the belt across the a/c and allow the insertion of special macan tool 95B-007.01 fabricated using the TLAR method of engineering. 2nd hurdle overcome".
Prying the belt off does compress the tensioner. Where is the 95B-007.01 tool inserted and what is its function? Can you clarify? Perhaps a schematic of the various components of the belt drive would be helpful. TIA
A schematic is way above my expertise on an iPad and although my wife has a laptop I’m not on speaking terms with it. So I will clarify as best I can.

The tensioner is a spring/ hydraulic component and is used to keep the drive belt tight at all times independent of temperature and belt wear. The belt can only be removed when it is loose/ slack. Therefore the tensioner needs to be compressed and kept in in the compressed position to create enough slack in the belt to remove it fron one of the components it drives, a/c, water pump alternator etc.
One of the pictures shows a large square screwdriver ( although anything that can be used as a lever would be ok) which I placed across the a/c compressor and levered the belt which forces the tensioner into a more compressed position.

The picture with the wood block inserted. This picture shows the tensioner in the top right corner, left of the tensioner is the tensioner pulley, below the tensioner pulley is an idler pulley and below that, part of the a/c compressor pulley can be seen.

When levering the belt to compress the tensioner , the tensioner pulley moves up or further away from the idler pulley. At this point the belt is still being held tight by the tensioner.
Now place the wood wedge tool between the tensioner pulley and idler pulley and remove the lever. The tensioner remains in the compressed position pressing on the wood block and the belt is now loose.enough to remove from one of the components.
The alternator was easiest to get the belt off( picture with a blue paint mark on the pulley).

Once the belt is off wiggle out the wood block which allows the tensioner to move to the fully extended position, necessary to be able to remove the bolts holding the tensioner.

The new tensioner must be compressed before being fitted so the belt can be refitted.
If the tensioner was refitted un compressed the belt would be impossible to refit.

TLAR - That Looks About Right
TFAR - That Feels About Right

Hope that helps, any other questions gladly answered.
 

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Excellent description which sufficiently clarifies the procedure. Again, thanks for letting us all know it's possible to install a new tensioner and/or to change the serpentine belt without removing the entire front end.
 
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