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Did your "check brakes" red warning light light up? I was told I would need rear brakes soon, but no warning light yet. 33K miles 2017 Macan S
I got the warning info at a little past 40,000 miles on our '18 S. I have a picture of that warning in this post: Rotors Replacement

It's my understanding from reading the forum for three+ years -- and also from that warning, which states "Driving permitted" -- that you'd typically have plenty of time, perhaps a few thousand miles, and certainly some hundreds, AFTER the warning shows up, to get the work done. So I certainly wouldn't have it done BEFORE the warning shows up (unless it's for convenience, scheduling, etc., purposes).

In my case, I took care of it a week or two later, because the scheduling was convenient for me, they had a loaner available, and so forth.
 
The price seems correct for pads + rotors - Porsche have performance brakes that stop much quicker than generic ones on other cars.

Can you take a photo of your pads through the rims? Most of the time you can look at how much width is left without disassembling anything, like on this video from the Porsche Club of North America:

Here's how my pads look:

You can see our pads look like a rectangle + a trapeze on top of it (when looked from the side). Having only the rectangular part left means the pads are dead. Having a good amount of the trapeze section means they're fine. On the top-right, an image extracted from the above video showing a dead and a new pad. I've split the picture and added the dead pad's missing part in the bottom right corner.
We need to educate people on how to look for this. This is very important to keep others from getting ripped off. the other issue is any car manufacturer stating it's a given that when you change pads you must change rotors. That is a lie! Unless you track your vehicle or are abusive in your braking, it is totally not necessary.
 
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We need to educate people on how to look for this. This is very important to keep others from getting ripped off. the other issue is any car manufacturer stating it's a given that when you change pads you must change rotors. That is a lie! Unless you track your vehicle or are abusive in your braking, it is totally not necessary.
I don't disagree with you, but I wonder about monitoring the rotors if you just have the pads (and sensors?) replaced.

That is, if you're old and decrepit like me (I'm in the on-deck circle for a new hip, for instance), and don't have jack stands or other lifts and suchlike, and don't like to get down on the ground (well, it's the getting back up part that's really the issue) and mess with thickness-checking calipers, what happens if the rotors get worn below spec sometime in between 10K service intervals? Am I correct that the sensors monitor only pad thickness, in which case you wouldn't get any MFD warning about the rotors later on?

Or am I missing something here?
 
If you have PTV+, you get an electronically regulated rear differential lock....

  • Variable torque distribution through controlled braking on rear wheels
  • Electronically controlled, fully variable differential lock for increased agility and steering precision as well as traction and vehicle stability
"Porsche Torque Vectoring Plus (PTV Plus)
Sports car makers adore corners. With our technologies, we are forever fanning the flames of the relationship. PTV Plus is an optional system for enhancing both driving dynamics and stability.
Operating in conjunction with an electronically regulated rear differential lock, it works by varying the torque distribution to the rear wheels. When the car is driven into a corner, moderate brake pressure is applied to the inside rear wheel as the situation demands. Consequently, a greater amount of drive force is distributed to the outside rear wheel, inducing an additional rotational pulse (yaw movement) around the vehicle’s vertical axis. The effect is a direct and sporty steering action. And considerable driving pleasure at every twist and turn.
At low and medium vehicle speeds, PTV Plus significantly increases agility and steering precision. At high speeds on the straight, and in fast corners where the wheels threaten to spin, the electronically controlled rear differential lock provides added driving stability. Stability is also improved on road surfaces with varying grip as well as in the wet and snow."

Read your own quote where it says it applies moderate braking force to the inside wheel.
The PTV controls differential locking, and not saying that's a bad thing.
What I know for sure is this is the first vehicle I've ever owned where the rear brakes wear out faster than the fronts.
Driving in a sporty fashion with the windows down you can hear the rear tires right on the edge of slipping
 
I have heard the claim before that PTV causes the rear brake pads to wear significantly faster.

All I can say is that we own two Macans. One has PTV, and the other does not, and the brake pad wear has been very similar. I suspect PTV does not apply the rear brakes that hard or that often in regular driving. I also suspect if you regularly tracked the car, then you would see a material difference.
We also have one with, and one without, and have had the same experience. Granted most days the cars don’t get driven that aggressively, but it’s clear that concern about rear brake pad wear should not be an issue when deciding whether to order PTV or not
 
Read your own quote where it says it applies moderate braking force to the inside wheel.
The PTV controls differential locking, and not saying that's a bad thing.
What I know for sure is this is the first vehicle I've ever owned where the rear brakes wear out faster than the fronts.
Driving in a sporty fashion with the windows down you can hear the rear tires right on the edge of slipping
I see the disconnect now.

I thought your first post inferred the Macan did not have an electronically controlled rear differential, which it does of course. I was not arguing that PTV+ didn't apply the rear brakes.
 
but I wonder about monitoring the rotors if you just have the pads (and sensors?) replaced.
what happens if the rotors get worn below spec sometime in between 10K service intervals? Am I correct that the sensors monitor only pad thickness, in which case you wouldn't get any MFD warning about the rotors later on?
Correct, the sensors monitor only the pads (and I don't think all pads have sensor, not sure). Generally, rotors can make at least 2 pad lifetimes. Porsche advises to change both at the same time, but I doubt one not driving sporty the car all the time will see the difference.

To check the rotor, one slide a finger from the inside to the exterior. If it feels smooth, without any crack, and without any lip at the edge, it should be fine. Ideally one would also check its thickness, but I don't know the official tolerance on this car (I hadn't have to replace anything on my brakes yet).
 
Correct, the sensors monitor only the pads (and I don't think all pads have sensor, not sure). Generally, rotors can make at least 2 pad lifetimes. Porsche advises to change both at the same time, but I doubt one not driving sporty the car all the time will see the difference.

To check the rotor, one slide a finger from the inside to the exterior. If it feels smooth, without any crack, and without any lip at the edge, it should be fine. Ideally one would also check its thickness, but I don't know the official tolerance on this car (I hadn't have to replace anything on my brakes yet).
Thanks for the clarification.

In my case, I had all four rotors and pads replaced at that appointment, the one slightly past 40K miles. I could feel a definite ridge on both the front and rear rotors. Disappointingly, I didn't get around to taking any measurements, and if the techs at the dealership did any measuring, they didn't report it to me. I think a top-shelf, more customer-oriented, shop would've given a full report on what they found, but I got over it, have since moved on, etc.
 
I don't disagree with you, but I wonder about monitoring the rotors if you just have the pads (and sensors?) replaced.

That is, if you're old and decrepit like me (I'm in the on-deck circle for a new hip, for instance), and don't have jack stands or other lifts and suchlike, and don't like to get down on the ground (well, it's the getting back up part that's really the issue) and mess with thickness-checking calipers, what happens if the rotors get worn below spec sometime in between 10K service intervals? Am I correct that the sensors monitor only pad thickness, in which case you wouldn't get any MFD warning about the rotors later on?

Or am I missing something here?
Bad hip, bad lumbar, bad sacral joint, bad heart... I will not be denied to turn a wrench or jack up a vehicle. I f I drop dead doing it, my family will know I went out doing what I've always loved the most.

To your point, BMW will grab your key and drop it in a reader that will tell them, and in turn you, as to when rotors are due for change. Years ago, I had warped rotors. I was told they could not change them until some future mileage. Unless I paid them out of pocket... Horse manure!

It sounds like Porsche's 'policy' is when pads get changed, they are obligated to change out everything. Just say no*.

*-I say this based on MY driving habits and my wife's. Maybe after the second round of requiring new pads I may pop for a set of new ones. But it will probably not be OE rotors. I state this because when it comes time to change pads I'll either choose EBC Yellow Stuff or Porterfield RS-4S (read a lot of good things about them recently). I'm at 31,000 miles as of this writing and the pads both front and rear hardly look worn.
 
On all my vehicles for decades I have replaced the rotors with every SECOND pad replacement, except in the case of a pulsating brake pedal which typically is an indication the rotors have warped from heat, and I have never had an issue. And warped rotors have happened only in more recent times as manufacturers have tended to make the rotors thinner in their desperate attempts to save weight.
 
......what happens if the rotors get worn below spec sometime in between 10K service intervals?....
Essentially, nothing happens if the rotors go below minimum thickness between 10k inspection intervals. There will still be plenty of material remaining to ensure structural integrity. Theoretically, there is less mass to dissipate heat, so fade could occur sooner. But unless you're making repeated hard stops over a short period, you're unlikely to notice the difference.

I don't think it's Porsche's policy to change rotors with each pad replacement. More likely a dealership recommendation, or corporate guidance from the dealership's parent company (Auto Nation, Penske, etc.). Our local dealership only advises steel rotor replacement when it's below the minimum thickness spec.
 
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Hahahahaha . . . as part of the "replacement joints" contingent . . . I'd think about every 2nd pad change . . . but measuring, coupled with visual inspection, remains the best way to know.

My F-250 Super Duty is due for brakes and I have a crack mechanic who has the rare mechanical ability of being trustworthy. I've already purchase top shelf rotors and pads and they'll do the entire thing on the next service.

My Macan just went for the 20,000 mile service and pads and rotors appeared fine. I suspect they'll be ready at the 30k or 40k.
 
I brought our 30K mile Turbo in to Burlingame Porsche last week for an oil change, ($75 for the oil change and $300 for the free car wash), and got the call that the car needed new rear brakes, ("barely 2mm left on the pads, and the rotors etched and scored"), for the bargain price of $1100. The fronts were done 2K miles ago as part of the CPO process.
 
Does seem right to you? I’m not particularly impressed to having to pay £1400 to replace all brake discs and pads at only 25000 miles
I agree that break pad replacement with only 20 some K miles is crazy. Was told yesterday that my 2019 with 23000 miles needs some new pads. Appointment is Monday. Love the car. But such frequent pad replacement is silly - Porsche should do better, be able to use pads that are more durable.
 
Hahahahaha . . . as part of the "replacement joints" contingent . . . I'd think about every 2nd pad change . . . but measuring, coupled with visual inspection, remains the best way to know.

My F-250 Super Duty is due for brakes and I have a crack mechanic who has the rare mechanical ability of being trustworthy. I've already purchase top shelf rotors and pads and they'll do the entire thing on the next service.

My Macan just went for the 20,000 mile service and pads and rotors appeared fine. I suspect they'll be ready at the 30k or 40k.
Hi Courtney. My 2019 completed its 20k servicing at the end of October and I also was told the pads are fine. Guess what? At 22,994 miles the break pad warning went off and it looks likely I will need new pads. Hope yours last longer.
 
Good to hear and I am glad you reminded me. I’m preparing to leave, to head north, next week or two and would like to get them done, prophylactically, prior to leaving. I have a great independent here who will do a great job at a reasonable cost. If I get the car to New York the work will be iffy at best and cost a bundle. Thank you for the reminder. Were you happy with the workmanship you got?

P.S. I’m now at about 35,000 and no warning. I’ll take it in next week for inspection.
 
Comparing brake lining life is like comparing fuel economy, it totally depends on how you drive. Court had better life because, by the sound of his posts, he does lots of freeway driving.
 
Court had better life because, by the sound of his posts, he does lots of freeway driving.
Precisely.

I've started the Macan, driven 1,400 miles . . stopping only for fuel . . and shut it off . . . 8 times now. My "mileage metric" for brake pads would be useless.

I expect to do brakes, regardless of warning/no warning and spark plugs prior to the next journey.
 
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