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Is it a realistic expectation to keep it for 7 -10 years before upgrading?
 

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I’ll let you know in 4 - 7 years. Recently bought a Safe-Guard extended warranty for our ‘18 S (which currently has 47K miles in 38 months).
I know there are a lot of extended warranty threads (don’t flame me anyone - I know to search) but just a quick question. Did you shop around much for a warranty ? I have been contemplating getting one and the most common ones I’ve seen recommended were the Fidelity and Porsche extended warranties.
 

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I have Geico MBI and it will cover me for 3 years after Porsche’s warranty expires or 100k miles. When my Macan turns 7 I will hopefully get a new car or at that time it will probably be worth very little so in case of a big maintenance cost I may just write the car off.
 
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I know there are a lot of extended warranty threads (don’t flame me anyone - I know to search) but just a quick question. Did you shop around much for a warranty ? I have been contemplating getting one and the most common ones I’ve seen recommended were the Fidelity and Porsche extended warranties.
No flames from me.

I did some reading here, for over a year, actually, on this topic. At some point, I narrowed it down to the most encompassing (and most expensive) and longest policies from Fidelity and Safe-Guard (the one Porsche seems to have co-branded for its cars, and which is sold at some Porsche dealerships).

In addition to reading a bunch of threads, I emailed Troy of Greenfield, MA (cited in many threads here as a good discount seller of Fidelity), to get some prices. And emailed again, to get some more prices, with additional deductibles. And then spoke with, and emailed, an SA at my local dealership. I also read the policies, Fidelity and Safe-Guard, on Fidelity's and Porsche's web sites. I'm not an attorney, or a CPA, or in the insurance business, or anything along those lines, but I assert that I have adequate reading comprehension skills.

Based on that research, such as it was, I decided upon the longest Safe-Guard policy, with the higher of its two deductibles.

That's the short answer. The long answer, in my particular case, can be found at Safe-Guard "Porsche" extended warranty VS... ; I have posts in pages 2 - 5 there, where you can find a more detailed description of my questions and findings, if you need them and have the time for some more reading.

Hope this is what you were looking for, from me.

EDIT addendum: When I started researching warranties, it was already too late for me to use Geico's MBI, which seems reasonably priced and well-liked, but requires that you insure with Geico before your car has reached a certain age and mileage.
 

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No flames from me.

I did some reading here, for over a year, actually, on this topic. At some point, I narrowed it down to the most encompassing (and most expensive) and longest policies from Fidelity and Safe-Guard (the one Porsche seems to have co-branded for its cars, and which is sold at some Porsche dealerships).

In addition to reading a bunch of threads, I emailed Troy of Greenfield, MA (cited in many threads here as a good discount seller of Fidelity), to get some prices. And emailed again, to get some more prices, with additional deductibles. And then spoke with, and emailed, an SA at my local dealership. I also read the policies, Fidelity and Safe-Guard, on Fidelity's and Porsche's web sites. I'm not an attorney, or a CPA, or in the insurance business, or anything along those lines, but I assert that I have adequate reading comprehension skills.

Based on that research, such as it was, I decided upon the longest Safe-Guard policy, with the higher of its two deductibles.

That's the short answer. The long answer, in my particular case, can be found at Safe-Guard "Porsche" extended warranty VS... ; I have posts in pages 2 - 5 there, where you can find a more detailed description of my questions and findings, if you need them and have the time for some more reading.

Hope this is what you were looking for, from me.

EDIT addendum: When I started researching warranties, it was already too late for me to use Geico's MBI, which seems reasonably priced and well-liked, but requires that you insure with Geico before your car has reached a certain age and mileage.
This was extremely helpful and exactly what I was looking for - thank you for taking the time to write this up and provide the link. Your response will saVE me (and hopefully others) significant time. I am pretty sure I will purchase an extended warranty in 2021 and will begin my research now. My 2018 has about 13 months of factory warranty left and I currently have about 25,000 miles.
 

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I have the Geico MBI but have never made a claim . I have a 14 year old modded 911 Turbo and in the 7 years it NEVER broke . Now after 14 the radio stopped working so they ordered a part it's out of pocket . My other 911 the 2017 GTS is about to end warranty and I am not buying anything ng extended other than the Geico which I have . I am waiting for the 992 GTS and dabbling with the Gt3.

The Macan I view completely different . It's not only supposed to be the "rational" car in the house but I'd prefer my wife to not face a break down on a road . Plus the Macan really holds value enough to trade them in Vs spending money on extended warranties or facing repairs . If I factor in brakes (2K ) , tires(2K) , a 40K service (1200) the idea of throwing money into the car usually has me looking at the new one . It only cost me about 15-20K in depreciation for 2.5 years to simply trade the car PLUS I get the tax credit into the trade and a discount on the new car . This time around I spent more money because I jumped a trim level (went from GTS to Turbo) and bought a loaded Turbo . Even that worst case expense cost me only 40K out the door and previous trades were 15 and 20 or so, Then I get full warranty , roadside, free 80K loaner ,
 

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Is it a realistic expectation to keep it for 7 -10 years before upgrading?
If you maintain it, I would think you could get 350 k miles. only thing I’ve done that was absolutely necessary was replace serpentine belt tensioner at 40 k. If I ever got a new one I would have it thoroughly under coated. There is a lot of corrosion of bolt heads and aluminum oxidizing. Mine‘s a keeper, If I have to pay out of pocket for oil leak or transfer case or transmission, I can afford that. They just don‘t make them like they used to. Mine‘s out of warranty so I’ve added every performance mod I can except downpipes and AMS intercoolers, which I’ll do the AMS next Black Friday. Greatest vehicle I’ve ever owned, suits my needs perfectly!
 

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Why did you replace the tensioner at 40k miles? Any issues or signs? I am just over 40k miles on my 2015 S and i don’t hear any noise around the belt.
 

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It leaked all the oil out. it was squeaking at idle. Couldn’t see it with the underbelly panel on, dropped it first thing and found it, driver‘s side. Car had just come off lease 36 k, bought as is at a great price, knew there had to be a reason it was not CPO. It should have been addressed by whoever did previous oil changes. That’s why I’ll always DIY. dealerships just want to sell new, had to take the car back to the dealership twice for tensioner, they left bolts on the subframe untightened and failed to replace the foam at the top of the radiator assembly.
 

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I have a 2009 Cayenne with just north of 100,000 miles on it. Aside from the normal scheduled maintenance it has cost very little. The only extra problem it had was a fuel injector leak that took a certified Porsche shop several tries to figure out and get right. Ultimately after I absolutely torched their incompetence on Yelp they refunded all their guesswork and I only paid for the actual repair, which was about $1200. Porsche does tend to be the exception in the higher end auto world. They're built to be driven and can go hundreds of thousands of miles as long as you take care of them.
 

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It leaked all the oil out. it was squeaking at idle. Couldn’t see it with the underbelly panel on, dropped it first thing and found it, driver‘s side. Car had just come off lease 36 k, bought as is at a great price, knew there had to be a reason it was not CPO. It should have been addressed by whoever did previous oil changes. That’s why I’ll always DIY. dealerships just want to sell new, had to take the car back to the dealership twice for tensioner, they left bolts on the subframe untightened and failed to replace the foam at the top of the radiator assembly.
Wow did you pay for it out of pocket? It’s never going to be cheap, one way or the other.
 

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What do you consider "material" for a year? Obviously you have "maintenance" which is known based on driving habits and the maintenance schedule (plus where you will perform it), and you have "repairs", which I think is more what you are focused on.

And of course, there's no guarantee. You can do every maintenance activity right on schedule and have an engine blow. And some people stretch every one and never experience an issue. But overall, these cars can run for many years.
 

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What do you consider "material" for a year? Obviously you have "maintenance" which is known based on driving habits and the maintenance schedule (plus where you will perform it), and you have "repairs", which I think is more what you are focused on.

And of course, there's no guarantee. You can do every maintenance activity right on schedule and have an engine blow. And some people stretch every one and never experience an issue. But overall, these cars can run for many years.
I’m totally DIY. I don’t want to fix it myself I’ve got a great independent. Oil change, $60 per change, twice a year. hasnt lost a drop of oil since repair. Car feels good and runs great. Very solid. I don’t abuse her. Elke’s my baby!
 

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I know oil change is dirt cheap at $60 a pop. But you don’t need to do it twice a year unless you drive 20k miles a year.
 

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I’ve got a valve for oil drain. Attach plastic tube and away we go. I use liqui-moli engine oil flush every 2 nd oil change and Ceratec with new oil. Only the best!
 

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I know oil change is dirt cheap at $60 a pop. But you don’t need to do it twice a year unless you drive 20k miles a year.
Honestly if I could find a reliable INDY that would do oil changes for $60 a pop, I would have it done twice a year. But no way if the dealer was doing the work for $400+ a pop each time.
 
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