Maybe dry sump and new coolant design accounts for this.

No and yes.

Since the intro of the 991 and then 981, Porsche has placed a lot of emphasis on thermal management. They want that water and oil temperature up to temp as fast as possible. It means better MPG, which is the name of the game.

3 miles is really quick.

 

I think this is similar to what BMW calls "mapped" cooling. It routes the coolant away from the radiator to get the temp up asap. Helps with quick heating in winter time.

 

Correct with what others have stated. Normally, you have a wax filled thermostat that creeps open until its fully open at a given temperature, so you partially bypasses coolant around the radiator to allow the engine to warm-up.

New engines tend to use electronic thermostats. You have a calibration map that under cold start conditions opens much later (and doesn't creep / leak) to get the coolant up to temperature faster. On top of that, you have an electric water pump that reduces circulation (that's how the cabin heat works when the engine is shut off). And a thermostat on the oiling system to bypass the oil cooler. In combination with minimum volume water jackets, means you have less thermal mass to heat up. Finally, the grill has active shutters to prevent air from flowing over the radiator or engine block.

All those things combined reduce warm-up time dramatically.

 

But your car is not up to safe operating temperature until the OIL temperature is. You know not to push it hard until then, right?

 

That's funny I find mine to be incredibly slow to get up to temp. Then again I've probably never been as careful about not stomping on it until optimal operating oil temp in my other cars.

 

Mine might be a problem then. It screams up just idle in driveway. I'll test time it from cold start in the morning to take a reading after 60 seconds and 2mins.

I wait for warm, but this one is still in break in anyways, so it's never seen hard yet. The S8 actually lowers the redline until 60C in the oil.

 

I've noticed that too. But keep in mind that 200 degrees F is not really 200 (F), necessarily. There's another thread showing how the coolant temp displays 200 while the measured temp is really within a pretty wide band.

 

Straight from the Macan Brochure:

Thermal management

"Engine cooling is prevented during the initial stages of a cold start so that the engine reaches its optimum operating temperature faster. This means it can begin working at high efficiency sooner, thereby consuming less fuel."

 

@L0U mine comes up to 200F very fast also and I've had some of the same thoughts as you. Its remarkably faster than any other car I've owned. I'm interested to see what the warm up will be like in winter, you know with a 15F degree starting point vs 70F.

Also worth noting is that the Oil Temp doesn't seem to reach optimum temp any quicker than and other car I've had.

 

The owner's manual for my 2022 Macan states "Do not warm up the engine when stationary. Drive off immediately. Avoid high engine speeds and full throttle until the engine has reached operating temperature." I used to own a very old vehicle and always warmed the car up, especially during our Canadian winters where outside temperatures are below freezing. Is warming up the car not a requirement for the Macan or cars in general nowadays? Even in the winter?

Also, I live less than 5 minutes from the highway, so if I start my car and drive off immediately, should I not be hopping on the highway right away? How long does it take for the engine to reach operating temperature?

 

The owner's manual for my 2022 Macan states "Do not warm up the engine when stationary. Drive off immediately. Avoid high engine speeds and full throttle until the engine has reached operating temperature." I used to own a very old vehicle and always warmed the car up, especially during our Canadian winters where outside temperatures are below freezing. Is warming up the car not a requirement for the Macan or cars in general nowadays? Even in the winter?

Who do you believe? The people who engineered and built your car or a bunch of strangers on the internet?

 

Just need to star driving at under 2500 RPM till engine reaches operating temp.

 

Starting your car and letting it idle until it warms up is frowned upon for the added emissions to the environment. The manual is European conservative. The transmission oil won’t warm up until you start moving and the engine electronics/thermostat will warm the engine as necessary asap. With that said, I usually wait for my car to drop to under 1000rpm before I drive off out of habit b/c I love my baby.

 

Same. Wait until the RPMs drop then drive off.

 

All modern cars generally go by the drive off right away just easily practice because of emissions and it really isn't necessary to sit there at idle for minutes anymore. I'll start my car and by the time I get my destination entered and glasses on or whatever, the start up RPM has already fallen back down under 1000 RPM and even if it hasn't it does by the time I'm out of my driveway and at the stop sign at the street corner. 5 minutes before you get to the highway is PLENTY of time for everything to be up to operating temperature.

 

Just one clarification from experience in our 2021 GTS. One cold morning (-30C or so) drove to a meeting some 45 minutes away by highway (didn’t hit the highway immediately after starting Macan). Water temperature came up quickly, but oil did not get up to normal operating temperature. It was on the way back after a two hour meeting at the destination that the oil got up to temperature.

With the synthetic oils and whatnot I don’t think the warming oil causes an issue, just wanted to point out that sometimes it takes a while for the engine to get up to normal temperatures in the extremes.

 

In my experience (7 or 8 cars of all makes) in past 20 years, the practice of warming up is not required. Most manuals say not to sit; start, drive off slowly, as others in the thread have replied.

 

My engine doesn't get that silky smooth running until the oil temperature gets above 180F, so that's when it is sufficiently hot to drive like it was meant to. Coolant temperature is not a reliable indicator.

My commute always starts with a 2 mile downhill. During that time the coolant may get to 200F but the oil temperature is far behind. You have to be burning fuel, creating power, to heat up the oil.

 

Where I live, regardless of the season, it always takes much longer for the oil to reach operating temperature (185F) than the coolant.

It’s pretty well known that it’s a good idea not to run a vehicle hard until the oil is up to temperature.


Good luck!

 

I prefer to wait till idles go under 1000 rpm at summer or wait at least 2 min at winter before start driving.

 

I idle all my cars till the water temp is at least 100F, then I drive gently till the oil temp is at least 180F.

 

Maybe it's true for a Ford, Chevy or Moskvich.

 

If you live in a fair climate you may simply start your Macan, let the high idle come down, then drive off but where I live I choose myself over my vehicle 9 times out of 10. It usually is warmed up for a couple mins max before driven to either warm up or cool down the cabin.

 

I ordered my last car in February, for use in the Hudson Valley, with both a block heater and a battery heater from the factory.

We‘ll see how they work this winter . . . .

 

Is this block heater for a Macan? if so, which engine?

The combination of battery blanket and oil pan heater an on old X3 made a huge difference when at -30C and colder. Much happier engine and quicker to operating temp.

 

Canada... forbidden to leave the car idling at the convenience store

 

That’s more of a guideline than a rule at -30.

 

The 2L turbo engine the Macan shares w/ the Audi Q5 has an internal exhaust manifold. One reason the coolant comes up to temp very quickly. The oil temp, as someone mentioned above, is a more critical criteria for knowing when the engine is at full operating temperature. I keep my mini display screen on the electronic gauges for that reason.

 

I have only just started taking note of the oil temp in my 2019 Macan 2.0L - I was wondering why my fuel consumption is worse in the winter than in the summer. I presume it cant help that the oil is taking 15 minutes to completely warm up. The coolant takes 2-4 minutes to heat up...

 

Hi fellow Macan Owners!

I've been reading the forum for a while but never register to post, so this is my hello!
I own a 2016 Macan S, 43k miles, and have been behaving great, up until recently, it suffered from a pretty bad coolant leak. The plastic coolant hose under the intake bursted and wouldn't hold any coolant at all. My mechanic did a replacement, and now everything seems to run fine.

I did become a lot more suspicious of the coolant system's performance after this incident. I'm worried that the underlying issue may still be there. So I took half a day and gathered a ton of observations of my car. I also purchased a ODB2 data plotter and was able to read the engine coolant sensor directly instead of relying on the idiot gauge on the dash.

During normal driving conditions in the city, my coolant temp according to the dash is 200F, but the sensor via ODB2 reads around 220F, oil temp on dash reads about 200-210F under this condition. As soon as the car picks up to freeway speed, the coolant temp drops to about 200F and oil 195F ish. If I am sitting idle for a long time, the ODB2 read coolant temp would hangout around 225, and oil temp around 210.
I also noticed that once sports mode is activated, both coolant and oil temp drop 10-15F ish within seconds.

These temps seem a little bit toasty in my brain. Clearly, the car is able to regulate two different setpoints with the toggle of sport mode, which leads me to think the thermostat is fine. Is this within what you guys have seen on your cars?

Cheers,
Dennis

 

I also purchased a ODB2 data plotter and was able to read the engine coolant sensor directly instead of relying on the idiot gauge on the dash.

I also noticed that once sports mode is activated, both coolant and oil temp drop 10-15F ish within seconds.

The second sentence proves your assumption in the first sentence is incorrect, since it's physically impossible to reduce actual coolant temperature "within seconds".

A reliable measure of temperature is with a mechanical gage. Or, use an infrared thermometer focused on the thermostat housing on the engine.

That being said, the numbers that you are seeing don't appear unusual.