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Read the title wrong and got excited. Thought this was a video for the upcoming hybrid turbo upgrade. Been waiting forever......
 

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Hi Jon,
Does the little "window" still show that the indicator is ON. visible from the drivers seat with the new sequential led ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Jon,
Does the little "window" still show that the indicator is ON. visible from the drivers seat with the new sequential led ?
Yes, we built that in but because the lens in smoked, it is a little more faint compared to the stock clear lens.
 

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2015 Macan S, stage 2 Cobb, Remus, Niche CP
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The light does not go into the tip, it’s solid plastic on that end. ive seen pic of installing a light for this. Maybe someday I’ll find an aftermarket LCA and use that as a warning light. I’m compensating for that with aspheric mirrors
 

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Not according to Jon.....he says light comes through the tip.....this is important to me anyway...as I have some now...that no light comes through .....reason I bough these F6 ones isnfor full functionality......but dimmer.......

Hopefully Jon chimes in.......
 

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This and the Cobb AP IMO, are the best mods you can get for Macan. I love adding 5mm or so to the Comfort mode as well for "Float" mode :)
I have not tried Show at, 30mm ?? was it Jon ?
thx
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This and the Cobb AP IMO, are the best mods you can get for Macan. I love adding 5mm or so to the Comfort mode as well for "Float" mode :)
I have not tried Show at, 30mm ?? was it Jon ?
thx
Yes, 30mm, I think I said 35mm in the video accidentally.

Any turbo update?
Not yet, still waiting on the Turbos from Pure Turbos. Our next episode will feature the AMS Intercoolers and F6 Diverter Valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
New Episode is up! We install the AMS Intercoolers & Flat 6 Motorsports by EVOMS DVs.



 

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Jon, thanks again for another good overview video. Unfortunately a little too fast for most people who have to do this installation, especially those without access to a hoist. Points that cause problems are; the two electrical connectors in the right front corner of the bumper, the installation of the left intercooler is much more difficult due to the location of the air con piping underneath and is best completed by removing the complete left air cleaner assembly, there is a vital need to make sure all the hose connections are completed fully and all hose clamps are done up tight - it's a lot of work to have to undue if a hose pops off after you have put it all together, I found the plastic air vents in the under guard (yes, a fender to some) protection that fits against the rear of the intercoolers had to be trimmed to get the best fit around their lower outer corners. In my right AMS intercooler the machining was not correct for the plastic diverter connector to fit correctly (0.5 undersize diameter) and I had to correct it. You need to be careful replacing the large black plastic piece that fits across under the front of the bonnet (under the swing lock), the clips along the front edge can easily be damaged (bent back) if they are not properly aligned before the cover is pushed down. Refitting the bumper, you need to be sure the two large locating tabs towards the centre and low down on the bumper fit correctly otherwise the bumper will sit high at the point in front of the wheel where the bonnet and bumper align.

The AMS instructions included in package are very good and detailed. Yes, the intercoolers are a lot better than original and combined with the EVOMS will work towards better response and intercooling. Now do we get to see a dyno run against the base line before you got to the next stage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Jon, thanks again for another good overview video. Unfortunately a little too fast for most people who have to do this installation, especially those without access to a hoist.

The AMS instructions included in package are very good and detailed. Yes, the intercoolers are a lot better than original and combined with the EVOMS will work towards better response and intercooling. Now do we get to see a dyno run against the base line before you got to the next stage?
Yes, the AMS instructions are pretty solid, we've found that trying to do a step by step on certain installs are too challenging so for many of the more advanced installs, we just show an overview. We're always happy to help with any questions. For products we think most folks can and will do themselves, we try to slow down and focus on the install steps.

I'm not sure we'll get another dyno run before we do the turbos. We don't have a dyno in-house and have to rent time from another shop which makes it challenging. We might get a dyno depending on the schedule of things. We don't believe these will show power on a dyno without tuning but from past experience, they should sustain power levels on back to back pulls. There is probably a small power benefit but don't think it will be huge.
 

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Well aware that changing intercoolers and diverter valves alone will not show any real gains in power, but some customers might not be aware. More importantly though, you now have an opportunity to validate what changes produce effective increases in power, at this stage you are on the edge of where most owners are willing to make changes (cost and ease of installation). If you now fit your air cleaner assembly and a Cobb tune and dyno it (your Stage 1), you will have a great new baseline to compare it with the first standard setting. Then, when you go to your new turbos and downpipes and run another dyno, you will have the final Stage 2 (the most expensive and more difficult stage). This gives a good set of data (same car, same dyno) for 'Standard', 'Stage 1' and then 'Stage 2', it further validates some of the claims made by manufacturers where it is often different cars on different dynos and often unclear details on what has been changed.

Just a thought, as the opportunity exists now, before the more complex upgrade is done and you can't then go backwards after it's done. :unsure: :)
 
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