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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone else had both their Oil Separators replaced?


P/N 946-107-230-77 “Non Return Valve” (+ 2 O-rings P/N 999-707-677-41)
Suncoast calls them: “Check Valve”
https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oem-parts/porsche-check-valve-94610723077/?c=Zz1lbWlzc2lvbi1zeXN0ZW0mcz1lbWlzc2lvbi1jb21wb25lbnRzJmk9Njk1MTQ4NTUmcj0xMiZhPXBvcnNjaGUmbz1tYWNhbiZ5PTIwMTYmdD10dXJibyZlPTMtNmwtdjYtZ2Fz

I had car in to fix steering wheel squeak, (3rd X) I also had them check for some other stuff including a whistling noise that seemed new.

I had never even heard of oil separators b4. Tech said can cause a whistling noise when bad. He heard a noise when car was shut off which indicated these parts were bad.
 

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I replaced mine when I had the timing chain cover leak. If these go bad they will cause crankcase pressure to build up and the oil will slip past all types of orings seals and gaskets. It’s happened to people on the cayenne forum. Dealer kept chasing one oil leak to another and then replaced these and no more leaks. I did it as a precautionary measure as I did not want any leaks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So you DIY?

Was it easy? Done from top or from underneath? Those parts were relatively inexpensive.

Are these terms interchangeable?
Oil separator
Non-Return Valve
Check Valve
 

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Has anyone installed a catch can yet? Are they needed? The reason I ask since the '13 C63 was throwing out a lot a blue smoke on short restarts a few weeks ago, I had had enough. Bought a catch can AND the check valve, had the intake manifold pulled, the interior cleaned up, valves checked for crap buildup and replaced all the plugs ($2,000).

No more blue smoke. But what I'm aluding to is could a catch can now on a young Macan prevent this from happening in the near future for possibly a few grand?
 

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So you DIY?



Was it easy? Done from top or from underneath? Those parts were relatively inexpensive.



Are these terms interchangeable?

Oil separator

Non-Return Valve

Check Valve


Yea I did it myself. Swap from the top, they are on the valve covers. Yea I believe those terms are interchangeable.
 

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Has anyone installed a catch can yet?....
This issue was briefly discussed in an earlier thread.....but it has not received much attention since.

https://www.macanforum.com/forum/engine-technical-discussion/23881-direct-injection-gunk-intake-valves.html

My impression is that the engine manufacturers adapted very quickly to the issue of carbon build-up on direct injection engines, by modifying their combustion chambers and fuel injection designs, and making the oil separators more robust. I haven't heard much about this issue on newer engine designs introduced after 2013-2014, or thereabouts. Personally I'm not concerned about it for the Macan.
 

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Has anyone installed a catch can yet? Are they needed? The reason I ask since the '13 C63 was throwing out a lot a blue smoke on short restarts a few weeks ago, I had had enough. Bought a catch can AND the check valve, had the intake manifold pulled, the interior cleaned up, valves checked for crap buildup and replaced all the plugs ($2,000).

No more blue smoke. But what I'm aluding to is could a catch can now on a young Macan prevent this from happening in the near future for possibly a few grand?
Weistec catch can for the C63?

Does anyone make a Macan catch can?
 

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Weistec catch can for the C63?

Does anyone make a Macan catch can?
On the Weistec, yes. They make one with fittings specifically for the C63 engine. Mind you, it cost hundreds of dollars. You can always buy a generic one for about $50-$150, but for the C63, the valve is on the very back of the engine. Hardly accessible. And, if you break off the fitting during installation, you wind up pulling the intake manifold. Or worse: you have an oil leak. So, to do it right, I just had the manifold pulled and did it the correct way. All the oil that had collected inside the chamber where the runners are was cleaned. TGA (Texas German Autohaus) did a great job in mounting the catch can in an easily accessible area so I can empty it when needed.
 

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Which line would you install the catch can ? The stock crankcase vent valve vents to the intake manifold and pre turbo looks like. I believe the turbo can’t handle so much oil being dumped into the inlet so some is pushed to the intake manifold to be burned off in certain conditions. I would be hesitant to modify that system as it’s more complicated than a N/A car. I believe in a na car there is a lot more engine vacuum available to run the separator. Not the case in a turbo car. I believe that’s why it has the manifold and pre turbo hook up so when there isn’t manifold vacuum pre turbo vacuum is there. Not really sure on any of this stuff though. Researched it a bit but then left it alone as it’s complicated. Even the Porsche motorsports air oil separators are for NA cars only I believe.
 

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I've thought that a PVC valve's job was to take any crankcase fumes and put them back into the engine to burn. Less pollution. In the case of the Benz, the tolerances on an engine with 66K, the PVC valve was slowly failing. You could start it up, back it out of the driveway. Run back in the house for something. Come back out and restart and I got a HUGE amount of blue smoke. What the catch can does is to whisk any air coming from the PVC valve, functioning or not, and trap it and subsequently drop it in the can. Better performance. Longer spark plug life span. Faster. when it goes bad it leaks raw oil fumes.

I have the same questions at ttmacan.
 

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If the claim now being made is that one should replace the check valve/non-return valve/oil separator in order
to avoid carbon buildup on the intake manifold/valve stems/etc., then when should this service be performed?

Every X months or years or every Y thousand miles?


Further, who has changed these out and where is the evidence it has any positive effect on the intake system?

Let's try to be a little bit scientific about this, please.


We do not want to get into the business of so-called fake news...


:eek:
 

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If the claim now being made is that one should replace the check valve/non-return valve/oil separator in order

to avoid carbon buildup on the intake manifold/valve stems/etc., then when should this service be performed?



Every X months or years or every Y thousand miles?





Further, who has changed these out and where is the evidence it has any positive effect on the intake system?



Let's try to be a little bit scientific about this, please.





We do not want to get into the business of so-called fake news...





:eek:


I think people also want to know :
- is the oem system adequate or is there carbon build because of it

- if the oem system can be upgraded via a catch can to avoid oil going into the areas where the crankcase fumes are now being routed (the engine, turbo) to prevent carbon buildup.
 

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I think people also want to know :
- is the oem system adequate or is there carbon build because of it.......
Given that the earliest Macans have been on the road a full 5 years now, and many folks have put 70 - 80k miles on them without reporting any carbon build-up issues, it seems likely that the OEM oil separator system is adequate. For the Audi engines I'm familiar with that had carbon build-up issues, those problems started occurring at around 35k miles.
 

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Given that the earliest Macans have been on the road a full 5 years now, and many folks have put 70 - 80k miles on them without reporting any carbon build-up issues, it seems likely that the OEM oil separator system is adequate. For the Audi engines I'm familiar with that had carbon build-up issues, those problems started occurring at around 35k miles.


Yeah I have almost 70k on mine I tend to agree. No issues here. That’s why I just replaced separators to refresh them and didn’t mess with a catch can.
 

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ttmacan, the e63-e64 BMW's were notorious for leaking valve stems. The MB W-204 C63's are notorious for blowing out a fair amount of oil on cold restarts. On a car of this caliber it, IMO, is unacceptable. This is why I installed the catch can.

I don't know if they're warranted on our Macan's. From Socal's comments it seems like they are not.
 

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Has anyone else had both their Oil Separators replaced?


P/N 946-107-230-77 “Non Return Valve” (+ 2 O-rings P/N 999-707-677-41)
Suncoast calls them: “Check Valve”
https://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oem-parts/porsche-check-valve-94610723077/?c=Zz1lbWlzc2lvbi1zeXN0ZW0mcz1lbWlzc2lvbi1jb21wb25lbnRzJmk9Njk1MTQ4NTUmcj0xMiZhPXBvcnNjaGUmbz1tYWNhbiZ5PTIwMTYmdD10dXJibyZlPTMtNmwtdjYtZ2Fz

I had car in to fix steering wheel squeak, (3rd X) I also had them check for some other stuff including a whistling noise that seemed new.

I had never even heard of oil separators b4. Tech said can cause a whistling noise when bad. He heard a noise when car was shut off which indicated these parts were bad.

Just did this at about 60,000 miles. Called dealer about the whistling. They diagnosed it over the phone, so it seems like a common issue.

Easy peasy fix. Took no more than 10 minutes.

I took the cap off the top of the old part and the membranes were ripped. Seems like a pretty flimsy part. I'm sure I'll be doing this again at some point.
 

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Just did this at about 60,000 miles. Called dealer about the whistling. They diagnosed it over the phone, so it seems like a common issue.

Easy peasy fix. Took no more than 10 minutes.

I took the cap off the top of the old part and the membranes were ripped. Seems like a pretty flimsy part. I'm sure I'll be doing this again at some point.
so what was the fix?
 
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