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Yes - eventually.
Have a 2017 GTS with 46,000 miles. Yesterday I got a warning "Engine Control Fault", Driving permitted, Consult dealer". Car was driving fine, no problems noted. Took it into the dealer and they had to replace 2 crankcase vent valves because they were leaking air. Tech showed me the part and it was plastic with a round diaphragm. Tech says he has seen this problem before but usually happens with higher mileage. My part failure was "premature". Part numbers 946-107-229-77 and 946-107-230-77. They sit underneath plastic engine cover so easy to access. Covered under warranty, parts would have cost $200 ($100 each) plus labor. While I was there, they also performed ALA2 Recall for Fuel Pump Cover. Picture of one of the valves attached. All is well:)

Porsche crankcase Vent Valve 946-107-229-77-OEM_1.jpg

Curious... The 946 was the model designation for a LH drive 924S. Has this part been around since then?
 

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Like I said in another thread.....I had no obvious failing issue with mine.
But here is what has changed.

I have posted about soot on my gloss tailpipes before, constantly wiping them down.

Since I changed these, NONE, nada, zero.
This has to be a good thing !
 

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So you DIY?

Was it easy? Done from top or from underneath? Those parts were relatively inexpensive.

Are these terms interchangeable?
Oil separator
Non-Return Valve
Check Valve
I changed one of mine because I thought it was my air oil separator (turned out it was my diverter valve due to the extra boost from my cobb custom tune).

It’s a really simple diy, done from the top.

I even opened up the “check valve” And it’s a simple diaphragm. Mine looked all ok. But I can see how oil can break down that diaphragm eventually- hence why I think a catch can makes sense.

if I remember from memory, you take out a couple screws and Undo the Norma connector. And replug in place.

-Jason
 

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I changed one of mine because I thought it was my air oil separator (turned out it was my diverter valve due to the extra boost from my cobb custom tune).

It’s a really simple diy, done from the top.

I even opened up the “check valve” And it’s a simple diaphragm. Mine looked all ok. But I can see how oil can break down that diaphragm eventually- hence why I think a catch can makes sense.

if I remember from memory, you take out a couple screws and Undo the Norma connector. And replug in place.

-Jason
What symptoms did you have for you to change diverter valves? What year is your macan? Turbo?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

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What symptoms did you have for you to change diverter valves? What year is your macan? Turbo?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
around 1 out of every 10 times under full throttle... I wouldn’t get the full boost.. and would hear this “Brrrrrrrrrrbrrrr” hesitation until I let off the gas.

I searched everywhere of what it could possibly be on google (good luck searching that)... and then figured it was because my diverter valve diaphragms/pistons weren’t fully opening/closing ... so I switched them out, and all is much better.
 

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If you hear the noise in the attached vid @3:10, it's likely your crankcase vents. My friend's Macan S had this happen, and the fix was easy.

The parts dude at the dealer said these fail all the time and that's why they stock them:

 

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Yup, there is a while thread on them.
Just changed mine.....no whistling.....but...preventative:)


2016 Macan T
 

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Yup, there is a while thread on them.
Just changed mine.....no whistling.....but...preventative:)
I looked for the thread, but can’t find it.

At what mileage would you suggest they be changed? How much do they cost? Is replacing them as easy as it appears? Thanks.
 

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I looked for the thread, but can’t find it.

At what mileage would you suggest they be changed? How much do they cost? Is replacing them as easy as it appears? Thanks.
Maybe this is the thread that @Teddis is referring to: Oil Separators . Check out, in particular, post 28 in that.
 

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So are the crankcase vents and oil separators one in the same?
 

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I just changed my oil nonreturn PCV things. Rather easy and worth doing yourself if you have a #8 socket and 2 hands to pull/squeeze the clamps that hold onto the unit. I got my parts at FCP Euro so that when they fail again I’ll just pay shipping to replace them. Also, be sure to get some O rings as I found one bad one. It looks to me like Porsche had the o ring slip on install, but it was “ok” since there were 2. The thin membrane in the housing seems to have torn right along the edge of the plastic plate that a spring is pressing on.

Of note, the sucking sound is gone at idle. The oil cap is still under suction, but I can turn and get it off where before it was VERY hard to do so. Hope this is a good sign. I also hope my squeal at idle when warm is gone.

233427
233428
233429
 
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Nice Photon,
Easy DIY.
How many miles do you have on ? You def had 2 failed items there.

Also, clean your exhaust tips well now......and monitor......I bet they get no where near as sooted.
 
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