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I was talking to my friend's dad about his 2015 Macan Turbo with about 60k miles on it and he had mentioned it was in the shop. I jokingly said, "Oil leak?" he replied, "How did you know?"...The worst part was he said this is the second time it's going in for the leak. Luckily, the dealership that repaired it the first time is doing it again as a good will. In the meantime, he's enjoying the '21 Cayenne Coupe loaner they gave him :)
 

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My brother once owned a 1937 Buick and your avatar is how it started. The key was used to release the steering wheel lock
and the switch for the starter was under the gas pedal!

The real fun was it had cable actuated brakes!!! (no hydraulics)

The center part of the roof was tarred.


He sold it for a 1958 VW Beetle.
 

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My brother once owned a 1937 Buick and your avatar is how it started. The key was used to release the steering wheel lock
and the switch for the starter was under the gas pedal!

The real fun was it had cable actuated brakes!!! (no hydraulics)

The center part of the roof was tarred.


He sold it for a 1958 VW Beetle.
Ah the good old days. I took that pic in my BMW. It's manual so that will pop up on the dash if I try to start the car without depressing the clutch :D
 

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Never thought I would miss my little Honda Fit. Little crackerjack box ran like a top. No leaks LOL! Service manager replied to my email asking for goodwill:

I have reviewed the pictures as well as the paper work and unfortunately what you were told is true. That does not qualify as a leak at this time. It needs to be an actual drip for Porsche to authorize repairs. This is Porsche’s policy not ours, and it is for vehicles under warranty. Goodwill only applies to warrantable repairs so no we cannot provide goodwill at this time. If the leak gets worse in the future we would be happy to request goodwill at that time. Or we can certainly work with you on pricing if you want to pay for the repair.
Regards.
Dave Stribling

Service Manager

Meanwhile Tonika from PCNA got back to me:
Thank you for contacting Porsche Cars North America.

Customer satisfaction is a top priority at Porsche, and we are sorry to hear that we did not meet your expectations. Since authorized Porsche dealerships are independently owned businesses, we ask for your understanding that Porsche Cars North America is not in a position to get involved in the terms of vehicle sales.

What I can do is act as your advocate in speaking with the dealership to hopefully encourage some dialogue and possible resolution from their side. I will reach back out to you in the next two days once I have spoken with the appropriate management at your dealership.
Kind regards,

Tonika T.


I did reply with current pictures showing a leak to PCNA. Got a quote from my indy. They said parts are $30, but labor is 8 hours totaling $1200. More to come lol.
 

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My passenger side vents on the under engine shield were moist with oil and a few drops were on the floor. Oh, no is my first thought and I'll skip all the rest. I went out on a limb and purchased my Macan used with 26k miles, so who really knows what the history is here.

I briefly looked over things before calling for an appointment at the dealer. All I could tell is that it was a leak, probably on the passenger side front of the engine. It seemed to be low pressure, so I just checked the level daily until I could get to the dealer.

Their best guess was that the front bottom bolt of the valve cover was not tight and that's where the leak was. Everything is clean and I'm still watching this. Parts are on order to tear into it if needed. They just did an oil change not even 2k miles ago, so even the service guy is confused by this one. It seems like they would have noticed this leak...my wife sure did!

Anyone else have a valve cover leak?
2020S @ ~4.5k miles. Dealer confirmed leak after low oil warning. Replaced the filter.
 

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I believe i'm also joining the oil leak club....2017 GTS (bought brand new in 2016) with 25k , notice small oil stain (2inch) on my garage floor on the passenger side . Took the under belly cover off and noticed oil coming from above but can't really tell. Out of warranty about a year. What to do :(
 

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I believe i'm also joining the oil leak club....2017 GTS (bought brand new in 2016) with 25k , notice small oil stain (2inch) on my garage floor on the passenger side . Took the under belly cover off and noticed oil coming from above but can't really tell. Out of warranty about a year. What to do :(
do you have all the service done at the dealership? if so, give them a try first,
a few members had reported they got goodwill from PCNA to fix the issue properly out of warranty for $400-2,000 out of pocket only
 

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do you have all the service done at the dealership? if so, give them a try first,
a few members had reported they got goodwill from PCNA to fix the issue properly out of warranty for $400-2,000 out of pocket only
Yes car bought and serviced at my local dealership. I have an appointment this Thursday for diagnosis :( ....sux just got the ok from the house boss to add another Porsche to garage (gt4 or Spyder) depending on what I hear from the dealership will kill those dreams

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Fortunately this one was a passthrough screw hole... my plan was always to take the front part of the screw through the front, and the rear part through the rear of the hole. It just was a little bit more difficult than anticipated, because the snapped part was driven inside the hole while I was taking the screw out. And the screw completely snapped before it was completely out.


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Santirx, I'm having the same TCC leak issue and I'm so upset since it happened to my Macan with only 39K miles on it.
I just spent about an hour going over stuffs you posted/shared, which have been very helpful. Thank you sooooo much for sharing lots of info regarding replacing screws. After seeing your posts, I feel pretty confident to give it a try on replacing the bolt(s). Now, can you share which tools you used? The space is very tight.
Did you use the same tool that you used during 'drive belt & hydraulic tensioner' job? Thanks!
 

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Santirx, I'm having the same TCC leak issue and I'm so upset since it happened to my Macan with only 39K miles on it.
I just spent about an hour going over stuffs you posted/shared, which have been very helpful. Thank you sooooo much for sharing lots of info regarding replacing screws. After seeing your posts, I feel pretty confident to give it a try on replacing the bolt(s). Now, can you share which tools you used? The space is very tight.
Did you use the same tool that you used during 'drive belt & hydraulic tensioner' job? Thanks!
Basically yes. I’ll post a photo. But… you have 39K miles, aren’t you within warranty? I would explore that first, before starting to mess up with the solution I presented… which would be good for folks that are not within warranty anymore.


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Basically yes. I’ll post a photo. But… you have 39K miles, aren’t you within warranty? I would explore that first, before starting to mess up with the solution I presented… which would be good for folks that are not within warranty anymore.


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Oh, I should've mentioned that mine is 15'; out of warranty.
 

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Oh, I should've mentioned that mine is 15'; out of warranty.
I would still try the dealer. Have you tried? Maybe some good will since you have not reached 50K miles yet?


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I would still try the dealer. Have you tried? Maybe some good will since you have not reached 50K miles yet?


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I already tried the dealer but no success. It did not seem like SA was on the side trying to help but more to take $ from my pocket for repair cost of $12K.
I need to decide either to keep the car by hoping that leak is not getting worse quickly or trade it in for another car.
As we all know, now is the worst time to buy a new car. lol
With that being said, my plan is to replace the bolt first, clean the engine area like you did and see if the leak gets worse. If it does not get worse, or leak is very little, I may just keep the car for next 2 years or so. thanks
 

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OK…got it. That’s unfortunate.

Tools:

This is the best combination I found. I think this is a 18” - 3/8” ratchet extension, connected to a 3/8” to 1/4” lock screwdriver adapter. This is connected to an 90 degree screwdriver adapter. I have a 1/4” extension… then a T30 torx bit.

244518


Showing the torque wrench. I specified the torque above I think. And I’m showing the high temperature thread sealant (Permatex).

Important, when taking the screw out, there is the likelihood that the screw is either already snapped or about to. Instead of trying to get the screw out completely, wiggle the front of the screw back and forth until it breaks. When taking the front of the screw out, you still want the back side tip to show through the back.

244520


The last thing you want is for the screw to break and the back side of the screw remains completely inside the screw hole with no way to take it out. If it doesn’t snap, losen it a bit and try to wiggle up and down making sure that you can still see the tip on the back side. The front side of the screw is not on the threads, only the back side. You are taking that back side of the screw through the rear of the screw opening with your hand. It is the safest way.

244519
 

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OK…got it. That’s unfortunate.

Tools:

This is the best combination I found. I think this is a 18” - 3/8” ratchet extension, connected to a 3/8” to 1/4” lock screwdriver adapter. This is connected to an 90 degree screwdriver adapter. I have a 1/4” extension… then a T30 torx bit.

View attachment 244518

Showing the torque wrench. I specified the torque above I think. And I’m showing the high temperature thread sealant (Permatex).

Important, when taking the screw out, there is the likelihood that the screw is either already snapped or about to. Instead of trying to get the screw out completely, wiggle the front of the screw back and forth until it breaks. When taking the front of the screw out, you still want the back side tip to show through the back.

View attachment 244520

The last thing you want is for the screw to break and the back side of the screw remains completely inside the screw hole with no way to take it out. If it doesn’t snap, losen it a bit and try to wiggle up and down making sure that you can still see the tip on the back side. The front side of the screw is not on the threads, only the back side. You are taking that back side of the screw through the rear of the screw opening with your hand. It is the safest way.

View attachment 244519

Thank you so much for taking your time to share info on tools, too. :)
Wasn’t it too long to fit and turn the screw?
Anyways, I will have the tools ready when I get on it.
Sorry to add more questions…
Just to confirm, you ordered screw with part# 999-073-913-31 such as this, right?
(I’m thinking about getting 4 or more and try to replace as many screws as possible while I work on it.
BTW, how’s the leak on your Macan so far?

I still do not understand how this is not on recall when many of us have this issue with defective screws they put on.
 

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That’s not the part number. These are the larger M8 screws that go towards the lower part of the timing chain cover. You need the M6 screws. Yes, I made a mistake with these… and had to order new ones after I realized the mistake.

I’ll get you the correct part number tomorrow…

Taking the screw out, if you it correctly, takes about 2 minutes. Installing it back with the sealant, another 2 minutes…

I found that replacing the top screws may be easier, but the bottom ones that use the larger screws may be impossible without putting the Macan in service mode.
 

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Oh... you just saved my life as I was going to pick up M8's tomorrow morning at the dealer. :)
So, M6 is for the upper side and M8's for the lower side.
Would you say 2 of each would be enough?
Thanks a bunch. I just finished ordering all tools, ramps, engine cleaner, etc... and just need to get the screws.
I'm hoping to save $12000 repair with $2 per screw.

I found 2 part#'s for M6 and M8.
Can you confirm if these are correct ones?


Thank you so much!
 

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Your part numbers are:

M6x30:

M8x55:

By the way, this Porsche Atlanta Perimeter Parts website is the best one I found to do parts research. Have all diagrams and a lot of parts photos, instead of the badly drawn drawings...

Are you seeing leak from both sides of the engine? You might want to start replacing the one M6 screw on the side that is leaking (if in both, replace both), and see if that solve your issue.

It is more unlikely that the M8 screws are broken, as they are bigger and stronger. The M6 as small and fragile. And as I said, replacing the M8 screws is going to be very difficult and there are many of them.

The best tool you can buy now is a borescope. That will allow you to pinpoint which screw(s) is(are) your problematic ones.

Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

BTW… after more than a month, my Macan remains dry (knocking on wood….🙂). Oil level had not decreased since I changed it last. I’ll be changing oil soon, so, I’ll open the undercover and post some photos of how I find it.
 

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Your part numbers are:

M6x30:

M8x55:

By the way, this Porsche Atlanta Perimeter Parts website is the best one I found to do parts research. Have all diagrams and a lot of parts photos, instead of the badly drawn drawings...

Are you seeing leak from both sides of the engine? You might want to start replacing the one M6 screw on the side that is leaking (if in both, replace both), and see if that solve your issue.

It is more unlikely that the M8 screws are broken, as they are bigger and stronger. The M6 as small and fragile. And as I said, replacing the M8 screws is going to be very difficult and there are many of them.

The best tool you can buy now is a borescope. That will allow you to pinpoint which screw(s) is(are) your problematic ones.

Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

BTW… after more than a month, my Macan remains dry (knocking on wood….🙂). Oil level had not decreased since I changed it last. I’ll be changing oil soon, so, I’ll open the undercover and post some photos of how I find it.
Thank you so much again.
I will have the bolts ordered and share the update. :)
 

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Thank you so much again.
I will have the bolts ordered and share the update. :)
Any updates? We’re you able to fix the leak?

I changed the oil of my Macan today, so, took undercarriage cover out. After 3 months, I’m happy to report that my fix worked. It is completely dry…!!!

The oil level was maintained for 3 months, since my last oil change.

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