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+1 I just went through the same rigmarole a year ago, at ~30k miles, i.e. first engine-out repair by P dealership mechanic resulted in a faulty re-install, apparently an issue with the seals, that led to an even worse leak. The 2nd engine-out repair by P dealership master mechanic finally fixed it, though there was some other seal on the top of the engine that they had to repair before giving it back to me 100% repaired. All work done under warranty. I would highly recommend NOT wrenching on this as a DIY. Apologies if the car is out of warranty.... didn't read far back in thread.
Out of warranty in my case... I'm almost 100K miles. I have issues with a single screw (top leftmost), which is leaking oil and is most likely snapped anyway. I'm replacing the darn screw. If I make it worst, so be it, then I'll take it to an indy to fix the thing. If I stop the leak, then great.
 

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Only 30k miles with an oil leak that costs $10k to fix is not uncommon? My next car will definitely be an EV.
I agree, it doesn't give me a lot of confidence to buy another one. At least the new seal will have an additional warranty from Porsche according to the dealer. This is why I rarely keep a car without a warranty.
 
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I was at my local Porsche dealer checking out a newly traded in 2015 Turbo. Unfortunately, by the time I got there, they had just sent it back to the shop for some new front tires, so the sales guy said I wouldn't be able to drive it. I told him no problem, I'll stop by another day. He then asked if I'd like to still at least take a look at it while it's up on the lift? I said sure! While back there I figured why not ask him about the oil leak issues. He said he's heard some things about that, but didn't say much more. I get it and was just happy he acknowledged it.

Side note: When I was shopping BMW back in 2010 the sales manager laughed at me when I brought up the high pressure fuel pump issues the 335i had and said he'd never heard of it. Exactly six months later, BMW launches their recall/extended warranty and free replacement for that very issue...

So after a few minutes of looking at it, the tech's tell us it's all done and so I actually am able to take it for a spin! However, before I did that I figured this was my chance to speak to someone who's working on Macans on a daily basis. I ask him the same question...he pauses, looks at the sales guy, and then admits that yes, he deals with that quite often. I then ask how much does a fix like that cost and told him I heard it can be around $9k. He says yes that's correct...BUT then says he also does a two bolt replacement that's only $800. Said It's not a Porsche approved fix (This is for those out of warranty). I asked if it worked? He thought so and suggested that as a first try.

Not sure if anyone would want to go that route, but wanted to share that as another data point just incase.
 

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I thought the 2-bolt fix only costs $400. ;)
 
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So, I went to a local dealer today and purchased the Oval Head M6x30 aluminum screws, the exact part number I needed to replace (cost about $2/screw... purchased 2 of them just in case, although I needed only one).

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If you remember, this is the situation I had:

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https://flic.kr/p/2kHbkTf
As part of the replacement work, I removed the plastic cable conduit covering the screw, got it out of the way. With a 90 degree drill bit adapter and a T30 bit, I removed the screw. The screw was broken, but not completely snapped. While taking it out, it completely snapped (and the snapped portion remained inside, which concerned me for a while). Using one of the new screws, I was able to force the remaining part out of the hole from behind. Enough for me to take it out by hand... this alone took about 45 minutes.

Photo showing screw removed...

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Broken screw...

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Installed one of the new screws and tighten to specified torque + 45 degrees (at least what I thought was 45 degrees)... as stated in the manual.

Tested for about 1 hour... including a 20 minute ride.

During the first 10 minutes, the screw was completely dry...

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https://flic.kr/p/2kSf96p
After about 10 minutes, I started to notice a little bit of oil around the screw, but not seeping down. Just a little bit around...

https://flic.kr/p/2kSgrzx
After seeing this, I turned the car off and cleaned the area... After this, it never leaked again for the next 40 minutes, even after some spirited driving.

This photo and video shows the screw after basically one hour of testing and the screw and area completely dry...

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https://flic.kr/p/2kSfa3K
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I think that the screw needed the thermal expansion... go through the cycle.

I will be very interested in seeing the results after a cold start tomorrow morning.

I was very lucky that the screw that’s broke, in my case, was this one which is very accesible. Even if it continues to leak the amount I saw in the future, most likely it will stay around the screw and not seep down, and I can live with that. I guess I can call this a success (knock on wood).

And, if this one breaks again, I already have another screw ready to go... $2 with a little bit of work beats $5,000-$9,000 any day.
 

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how did you extract the snapped part?
Well, that was a tricky one. The snapped part was loose enough that I was able to introduce one of the new screws through the front of the hole and rotate it out a little bit from the rear (with friction I guess). With the tip of the snapped part showing, it was enough for me to get my hand in there, with a lot of patience, and remove it (from the rear).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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that's a very good outcome. i had to do the same with my outbound motor when the bolt snapped and I had to drill it to extract.
 

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that's a very good outcome. i had to do the same with my outbound motor when the bolt snapped and I had to drill it to extract.
Fortunately this one was a passthrough screw hole... my plan was always to take the front part of the screw through the front, and the rear part through the rear of the hole. It just was a little bit more difficult than anticipated, because the snapped part was driven inside the hole while I was taking the screw out. And the screw completely snapped before it was completely out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Excellent work, @Santirx ! Can you write a DIY for replacing the bolt? Many of us are out of warranty and this method certainly beats anything else as a first try if the TCC oil leak happens in the future.
 
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Reporting back on this, after a cold start and more extensive testing today, I have a mix of good and bad news. The good news is that the replaced screw remains dry... the bad news is that I observed oil residue on the bottom of the AC compressor (where I normally saw some drops of oil). It seems that my issue extends beyond that single screw that I replaced, and the belt hydraulic tensioner, which I also replaced.

I’m going to continue testing, but at this point I’m out of ideas. I think I’m going to have to get it to a dealer or Indy, if I want to solve this issue.

I really thought I had it... :confused: but, such is life...
 

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Reporting back on this, after a cold start and more extensive testing today, I have a mix of good and bad news. The good news is that the replaced screw remains dry... the bad news is that I observed oil residue on the bottom of the AC compressor (where I normally saw some drops of oil). It seems that my issue extends beyond that single screw that I replaced, and the belt hydraulic tensioner, which I also replaced.

I’m going to continue testing, but at this point I’m out of ideas. I think I’m going to have to get it to a dealer or Indy, if I want to solve this issue.

I really thought I had it... :confused: but, such is life...
this got me thinking if bolts replaced for others for $499 actually solved the issues or just minimized the leak.
 

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this got me thinking if bolts replaced for others for $499 actually solved the issues or just minimized the leak.
That is a real possibility...
 

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I will continue to monitor my $450 bolt replacement and report back if I find any oil so far - going on 10 months and not a drop but it sounds like even the engine out repair can leak again glad I went the bolt replacement route first for sure.
 

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I will continue to monitor my $450 bolt replacement and report back if I find any oil so far - going on 10 months and not a drop but it sounds like even the engine out repair can leak again glad I went the bolt replacement route first for sure.
Are you checking with a borescope, or for drops on your floor? I’ve never had a drop on my garage floor. My leak is very minimal, but enough to form a drop below the A/C compressor. Some of which drops on to the undercarriage panel. But never the floor.
 
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