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On a macan s 2020. Message “ add quart of oil, can continue to drive”. I added the quart and now it will not display level of oil. Do i need to drive x miles to get the oil gauge to measure and re display current level of oil ?
 

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From the Good to Know app (it's confusing, just drive around normally to get the engine temperature to normal, then stop on a level surface, wait one minute, then check the level)

Measuring and displaying oil level:

Information:
Under certain circumstances, the oil level cannot be measured. The reasons for this include:
  • Engine is cold
  • Vehicle has been stopped after full-load operating at high engine speeds
  • Engine oil temperature is too high

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  • Vehicle is level
  • The engine is at operating temperature and has been stopped for at least one minute
 

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Gen II owners, the message we get (per the manual) is "Oil level information currently unavailable". I'm putting this here in the hopes that the search engine will help folks find this thread in the future, since Gen I and Gen II messages are different.
 

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I’m baffled on this message. Oil level information currently not available.

This is my first oil change in a 2018 Macan GTS. It went pretty smooth, except for the oil level check.

I drained 8 1/2 quarts, using the oil bottles to measure, and poured in 8 1/4 quarts. I didn’t want to over fill it. Started up the car, ran it for 5 mins, same message. Drive the car to store, same thing, got home, same thing. Oil temp was at 209F, good oil pressure.

when I started, the oil temp was about 109F. Maybe the computer needs to see the cold temp first? Normally I do it in the morning but I want to replace the brakes tomorrow, and didn’t think I would have enough time.

About the oil change:
I used Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w-40. Got a ok deal on it for $87 on Ebay. Bought the Mahle filter and oring, I love Mahle products. Got a handful of crush washers, extra drain plug just in case. Bought the Liley giant oil pan. I missed buying the 36mm short oil socket. A must have tool. I had a 36mm socket I use for axle nuts, but took forever because it’s a 6 point.

removed the lower engine cover and there is a bit of oil on it. Well I would say a significant amount leaked out of the oil filter. I looked around with a flashlight and didn’t see any oil leaks, just a drop under the oil filter at the mating joint.

when I first started up the engine, it didn’t sound that good. It was noisy, can’t explain but I was thinking timing chain. I added 1/4 quart more. Then it smoothed out after driving it a couple of miles. Maybe it’s from changing oil brands. Or paranoia that I made a mistake. Or the extra 1/4 quart made a difference.

I bought a Autel Android scan tool that can ask the cars computer for the oil level, but it was already 10:30 PM and I would have to run the engine again. I’ll try it Sunday if I have time.

Autel Maxipro MP808TS. Sort of strange at first, all it would let me do is reset the oil interval. Then about 45 mins later more and more options came up on the screen. In was able to set the park brake, set the rear brakes to installation position. Open the solenoids on the PDK for a full ATF dump. And it had a recode feature, where I can can change rule based code. Not sure how that works or what it means yet, I dont have internet at home and it needed to lookup the rules.

but I’ll tell you one thing, wish a I had this tool when I bought the car. I would of plugged it in to see the list of codes popped in the computer. I have 3 codes listed as passive or sporlactic, which isn’t bad. They start with A.
 

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I’m baffled on this message. Oil level information currently not available.

This is my first oil change in a 2018 Macan GTS. It went pretty smooth, except for the oil level check.

I drained 8 1/2 quarts, using the oil bottles to measure, and poured in 8 1/4 quarts. I didn’t want to over fill it. Started up the car, ran it for 5 mins, same message. Drive the car to store, same thing, got home, same thing. Oil temp was at 209F, good oil pressure.

when I started, the oil temp was about 109F. Maybe the computer needs to see the cold temp first? Normally I do it in the morning but I want to replace the brakes tomorrow, and didn’t think I would have enough time.

About the oil change:
I used Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w-40. Got a ok deal on it for $87 on Ebay. Bought the Mahle filter and oring, I love Mahle products. Got a handful of crush washers, extra drain plug just in case. Bought the Liley giant oil pan. I missed buying the 36mm short oil socket. A must have tool. I had a 36mm socket I use for axle nuts, but took forever because it’s a 6 point.

removed the lower engine cover and there is a bit of oil on it. Well I would say a significant amount leaked out of the oil filter. I looked around with a flashlight and didn’t see any oil leaks, just a drop under the oil filter at the mating joint.

when I first started up the engine, it didn’t sound that good. It was noisy, can’t explain but I was thinking timing chain. I added 1/4 quart more. Then it smoothed out after driving it a couple of miles. Maybe it’s from changing oil brands. Or paranoia that I made a mistake. Or the extra 1/4 quart made a difference.

I bought a Autel Android scan tool that can ask the cars computer for the oil level, but it was already 10:30 PM and I would have to run the engine again. I’ll try it Sunday if I have time.

Autel Maxipro MP808TS. Sort of strange at first, all it would let me do is reset the oil interval. Then about 45 mins later more and more options came up on the screen. In was able to set the park brake, set the rear brakes to installation position. Open the solenoids on the PDK for a full ATF dump. And it had a recode feature, where I can can change rule based code. Not sure how that works or what it means yet, I dont have internet at home and it needed to lookup the rules.

but I’ll tell you one thing, wish a I had this tool when I bought the car. I would of plugged it in to see the list of codes popped in the computer. I have 3 codes listed as passive or sporlactic, which isn’t bad. They start with A.
If you asking about why the oil level doesn't display, mine does the same thing, have to drive it about 30 mins before it finally shows on the display. One thing that really drives me crazy is no oil dipstick so I bought one that works fine. There are other threads talking about the no oil info available message if you search.

Here is the dipstick. You can't leave it in all the time or you can't put the engine cover back on so I just keep it with my oil supplies and use it when I am changing the oil but once you figure out how much you need, you can just use it each time and not even worry about it. But it's a useful tool to double check the overly electronic oil level sensor. Give me a dipstick anyday (I do miss some of the manual options)

 

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FWIW, you can always check the oil level first thing in the morning BEFORE you start the Macan with the
key in the ON position and navigating the PCM to the Check Oil Level point.


:oops:
This may be a useful technique, if it gives consistent readings AND if you know what to look for, in terms of the level displayed.

I say this because it's my understanding, based on the Good To Know app (and the Owner's Manual, which mirrors that, on page 178 of the manual for my '18 S), that the oil level is to be checked when the engine is hot:

245891



Presumably, the engine will not be at operating temp first thing in the morning.

I am reminded of some folks on some motorcycle forums, regarding at least one motorcycle that I owned, which had an oil-level dipstick and for which the oil was to be checked with the bike on the centerstand. If you knew that the level was correct -- perhaps you had just changed it, with the bike on the centerstand -- then you could also note where the level was indicated if you left the bike on the sidestand. Thus, you could later look for that same spot on the dipstick, with the bike on the sidestand. This might apply to the engine-cold method you mention, if you knew what level to look for, i.e., a level that corresponded to a proper engine-hot level later on.
 

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Presumably, the engine will not be at operating temp first thing in the morning.

I'm not clear on what this statement is suggesting. For certain, first thing in the morning (assuming the vehicle hasn't been
used for several hours) the engine is not at operating temperature.

The excerpt from Good to Know indicates one reason the oil level cannot be measured is a cold engine. True. When one starts their Macan
for the first time the engine is cold and the PCM will not provide an oil reading. My note above advises taking a reading before starting - ON
and not started.


I just checked my Macan's oil level. I had not started it today. The oil level reading (without starting) is consistent with what I saw yesterday,
just a bit below the upper full mark.


;)
 

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I'm not clear on what this statement is suggesting. For certain, first thing in the morning (assuming the vehicle hasn't been
used for several hours) the engine is not at operating temperature.

The excerpt from Good to Know indicates one reason the oil level cannot be measured is a cold engine. True. When one starts their Macan
for the first time the engine is cold and the PCM will not provide an oil reading. My note above advises taking a reading before starting - ON
and not started.


I just checked my Macan's oil level. I had not started it today. The oil level reading (without starting) is consistent with what I saw yesterday,
just a bit below the upper full mark.


;)
Well, I was indicating that -- if I understand the app and owner's manual correctly -- the method you suggest does not appear to be sanctioned by Porsche, because the engine is not hot.

I have no idea how the level in a cold engine compares to the level in a hot-but-turned-off-at-least-a-minute engine. Are you suggesting that those two levels will be close enough, in terms of the MFD display, that it doesn't matter which of those two methods an owner uses? <== That's a real question on my part, not a hypothetical one, not a snarky one, etc. -- I'm completely new to cars sans dipsticks.
 

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I can't state strongly enough how much a hate not having a dip stick. I don't care that they have the electronic oil level gauge, but for God's sake, please add a dip stick. I am tired of jumping through many hoops to get the digital gauge to show oil level. Porsche- you blew it when you deleted the dip stick. Fast, easy, and dead accurate.
 
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I was taught to always check the dip stick on a cold engine in the morning. With cold oil you want to be in the center. When the oil gets hot, it expands. On a hot engine the oil should read lower, because it has to all drain to the bottom. Probably takes at least 1 or 2 hours.

I bet the dealer uses a dip stick, so I’m buying one so I be done with this. This digital dip stick is silly.

Hey Macan, how’s my oil level? I cannot compute that right now. Ok Macan, I’ll check back later. Or I’m getting a busy signal like on the telephone.

Well thanks all for helping. I was beat last night and forgot to search. Today was front brakes and it didn’t go well for me. Only got one side done. But interesting was that the dealer installed Akebono brake pads. They didn’t say Porsche on them.
 

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I just read the other thread from the link provided. Oh boy….. so I keep opening the hood. I tried to check the oil level with the hood open first time. I drove it 1 mile and opened the hood again. Then drove it 2 miles and opened the hood again. I see my problem now, I’m a dinosaur who owns the latest in German technology and I’m not hip to the way of German automotive ideology.

I’ll try my scan tool. According to my Autel MP808TS, the oil has to be 90C to run the car computer software to compute this value. Right now it’s at 38C. I’ll be back, I’m going for a drive……

Here is what Autel says, the oil has to be between 90C and 99C. I drove 2 miles and took a reading with Autel. Said I was -.5L short. I added 1/2 a liter for a total of 9 liters. Ran the test again but the oil temp hit 100C and the test failed. By the way the Dashboard said the say thing, cannot compute, try again later.

245895



hmm, this information seems to open this issue back up, or brings it back up for debate. I didn’t have to drive 6 or 10 miles. I drove 2 miles to get the computation. It computed 9 liters, I don’t feel like converting to quarts right now. I’ll wait an hour for the oil to cool, and run the software again to see if it says 0. I’ll post a another picture with no words. I already spent $780 on this Autel MP808TS, so I’m not buying a dip stick. On a negative note, the guy that had the Indy shop do the oil change and was smoked with disinformation is sad to hear. pretty dumb that I have a better diagnostic tool than this Indy shop has.

oh, and I give accolades to every guy or gal that does DIY work on their Macan. These cars are not easy to work on.

ok, change of subject. I got the new rotor and ceramic pads on the front drivers side. While heating up the oil, i did some 50 to 0 hard braking to set the pads. I swiped my finger on the calipers and no dust. It looks promising. This is what everybody is looking for on their Macan.
 

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I just read the other thread from the link provided. Oh boy….. so I keep opening the hood. I tried to check the oil level with the hood open first time. I drove it 1 mile and opened the hood again. Then drove it 2 miles and opened the hood again. I see my problem now, I’m a dinosaur who owns the latest in German technology and I’m not hip to the way of German automotive ideology.

I’ll try my scan tool. According to my Autel MP808TS, the oil has to be 90C to run the car computer software to compute this value. Right now it’s at 38C. I’ll be back, I’m going for a drive……

Here is what Autel says, the oil has to be between 90C and 99C. I drove 2 miles and took a reading with Autel. Said I was -.5L short. I added 1/2 a liter for a total of 9 liters. Ran the test again but the oil temp hit 100C and the test failed. By the way the Dashboard said the say thing, cannot compute, try again later.

View attachment 245895


hmm, this information seems to open this issue back up, or brings it back up for debate. I didn’t have to drive 6 or 10 miles. I drove 2 miles to get the computation. It computed 9 liters, I don’t feel like converting to quarts right now. I’ll wait an hour for the oil to cool, and run the software again to see if it says 0. I’ll post a another picture with no words. I already spent $780 on this Autel MP808TS, so I’m not buying a dip stick. On a negative note, the guy that had the Indy shop do the oil change and was smoked with disinformation is sad to hear. pretty dumb that I have a better diagnostic tool than this Indy shop has.

oh, and I give accolades to every guy or gal that does DIY work on their Macan. These cars are not easy to work on.

ok, change of subject. I got the new rotor and ceramic pads on the front drivers side. While heating up the oil, i did some 50 to 0 hard braking to set the pads. I swiped my finger on the calipers and no dust. It looks promising. This is what everybody is looking for on their Macan.
Well, they should be easy to work on and this is the gripe. Porsche has always been a DIY type of car company. Maybe they should get back to their roots.
 

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Alright I’m done now.

I read the scan tool wrong amd added 1/2 a liter when I was suppose to remove 1/2 a liter. Pulled the oil filter off and sure enough, a liter tricked out. I actually did measure it to make sure.

the previous post above is spot on, about Porsche being a DIY type of car. I think when VW Group got the upper hand and bought Porsche, they changed that. And I see dealers 4x the size of the service dept.
 

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Alright I’m done now.

I read the scan tool wrong amd added 1/2 a liter when I was suppose to remove 1/2 a liter. Pulled the oil filter off and sure enough, a liter tricked out. I actually did measure it to make sure.

the previous post above is spot on, about Porsche being a DIY type of car. I think when VW Group got the upper hand and bought Porsche, they changed that. And I see dealers 4x the size of the service dept.
Here in Seattle they can't find anybody to work on the cars;
Looking for a good mechanic? Odds are your garage is, too. It’s Seattle’s other labor shortage.
 

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Here is the dipstick. You can't leave it in all the time or you can't put the engine cover back on so I just keep it with my oil supplies and use it when I am changing the oil but once you figure out how much you need, you can just use it each time and not even worry about it. But it's a useful tool to double check the overly electronic oil level sensor. Give me a dipstick anyday (I do miss some of the manual options)

Same engine? Oil pan different? Only 911's?
 

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Just changed oil and filter last night and, even though the manual says 6 miles, I drove 8 miles to check oil level. No reading. Drove another 7 miles....Still no reading. So sick of this Mickey Mouse crap!
Update: Drove another 12 miles this a.m. and finally got a reading. I think the secret is to be sure to get the oil up to full operating temperature.
 
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