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Anyone know if the coding is to make the lights work or just for dash warning error messages?

What it install these myself but wouldn’t want to get rear ended on my way to the dealer for coding.


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Forum member Active_Exhaust sold a set of US tail lamps a couple of months ago. IIRC, the
fit was exact - plug & play - he had the dealer do the swap and there was some mention of
'standard' coding.

I think he also posted a clip of the new lights in action.


Yes, exactly - it was a standard plug & play with those lights from Suncoastparts. The big thing was removing the bumper as the taillights won't come off with the bumper on (I think that generated the labor time and resulted in high install cost). I can't 100% confirm coding was ultimately needed but it was mentioned to me both by the dealership & a 3rd party shop in the Austin area when I was shopping around for this install.
Good luck! ;-)
 
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Thanks guys.
But holy crap, major surgery to replace these.
I’m afraid to ask about how to remove the inner units.

I’m sure somewhere down the line, I’ll need to remove the engine too ;). Not easy working on pcars!


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Called Suncoast and tech claims they did a few installs and some customers DYI, no coding needed. No issues reported.

Tech said it’s plug & play but tabs may need a little trimming. Maybe if receiving chassis bucket slightly out of spec?

I bought the last set they had in stock. Probably arrives end of the week.

I’ll let you know how install turns out when I get a chance to attempt it.

Anyone have instructions on how to remove the tails from the tailgate?


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Well, that answered 2 questions, TY: is the red center light still operational w/headlights? Are they combined? Yes to both (as I hoped). It looks great and I'll probably get a set. Suncoast said this is absolute non-returnable item so I've gotta get it right.
With the EUR lights the middle stripe goes off for: (1) main light which is red and (2) flashing amber indicator.
When both are on they kind'a blend in together which lead me to believe the middle stripe must be shared between those two (rather than having a dedicated LED section for each) - odd but it works just fine.
 

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What is meant by "goes off" above? Are you stating it illuminates or is turned off? The use of the word "off" is misleading.

If what is meant is illuminates, then in normal running lights mode, does that mean both red and amber LEDs are illuminated
and it appears red?

And, when a directional signal is selected, do the red LEDs in the center strip shut off and the amber LEDs blink?
Or, do both color LEDs remain illuminated and the amber LEDs flash on & off?


Thx!
 

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Completed the conversion recently!

The taillights illuminate "normally" in red as they always did. The difference now is when using
the directional signals, which now illuminate in amber/yellow. Locking flashes in amber/yellow as
well.

It's kind of tricky to get the rear bumper cover off. I followed the instructions by eyeofthekiger. You most
definitely want to use painter's tape as he specifies. I did not remove the entire wheel liner - just the 4 Torx
screws and two 10mm plastic nuts to allow the liner to flex enough to allow access to the Torx screws
holding the bumper cover.

Here's another little item. You don't have to place alignment marks on the hatch rubber stops near the
bottom of the opening on either side and the body in order to ensure they're angled correctly on reassembly,
because each one has two little stubby pin-like protrusions that fit into holes in the body panel. This
assures they'll be lined up correctly. I'm accustomed to marking things like that because typically there are
no such alignment mouldings/castings engineered into parts.

I also ended up having to remove the black plastic piece underneath the taillights in order to get the
taillights to free up from that part. In the web page referenced above you can see there are two Torx
"screws" on the bottom of the taillights that fit into slots in the black plastic part. There's no way to get a
Torx socket of driver on them. A Torx "key" might have worked, if such a thing existed. I did use small
needle-nose vice grips on one of those in order to free up the taillight on one side.

Two more items - the electrical connector from the harness plugs into a holder and the taillight pigtail
then plugs into the harness. I didn't understand how it all fit together initially and spent quite a while trying
to disconnect the first one. The second item has to do with the taillight mounting Torx screw located
closest to the front of the vehicle. Taking it out is OK, it's when you are doing the reassembly you need to be
aware that you must push on the screw constantly. It fits into a spring like mechanism and must be pushed
through that in order to engage the screw with the nut threads on the other end. If you don't push, the threads
won't engage - and you'll turn and turn and turn...

The website above also doesn't cover the inner taillight pieces. I had instructions from Niche which helped.


Hatch Lower Liner

The finger cups on the bottom edge of the hatch have rubber liners that need to be removed with your trim
panel kit. Each cup has two small (T20? IIRC) Torx screws. Next, there are two more Torx screws inside the empty
WARNING triangle pocket. Lastly, use your trim panel tool to pop the hatch cover off - you'll need to disconnect
the Open/Close switch if your Macan has one.

Once the cover's off two 10mm nuts hold the inner taillight into place.

CAREFUL on reassembly! The innermost nut is on a bit on an angle. If you fail to start it and it slips out of your socket
it can end up inside the hatch panels! It's tricky to get it out of there - and you don't want it to go all the way to the
top or the bottom, or you'll likely never get it out.

I was able to get mine to slide a bit one way, then the other. You can only get your finger in there and not enough
to ease it out - just enough to touch it. I ended up getting it closer to the opening and then putting my retriever magnet
up there to capture the nut.

You are forewarned!

BEFORE YOU BUTTON EVERYTHING UP - bumper cover, hatch liner, etc.

Test closing the hatch and check the alignment of the inner & outer taillights. The two Torx screws on the outer taillights
near the opening allow for a bit of vertical adjustment (be sure to loosen the third Torx screw as well!) and the nuts for the
inner taillights also allow for a bit of vertical adjustment.

I can see why a shop charges for several hours. It's a lot of effort to change taillights!


Good luck!


😉
 

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Nice details. How long did it take to complete the install on the hatch? How long above the bumper?


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Maybe an hour and a half for the hatch.

The bumper removal, etc. took considerably longer. This was mainly due to the fact that I've
never peeled the bumper skin off a Macan before, nor disconnected the wiring to the taillights
or removed the taillights from their "mounts".

Each of the items noted above as well as the Torx screw into a spring loaded holder described above
cost significant time. I'd estimate it took me more than 3 hours, or maybe longer, to complete that
part of the job.

I took my time, wanting to ensure I didn't break anything.

A head-mounted LED lamp was very helpful!


Good luck!
 

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Thanks!
Received the Euro lights. Need to plan some time do the install


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You gave me the itch and I had to get started.
Completed the hatch in about 1.5 hours. Thanks for the heads up on the bolts. I was very careful and worked out great.

I’ll be studying the bumper removal tonight and tackle that in the morning.

The yellow signal is much brighter than the red strip.

Appreciate your help!

Brakes , no signal


Signal, no brakes


Signal, no brake, both sides



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Finished the install. Went smooth but takes time, about 6 hours for the whole job.

Unplugging the harness from the outer lights is difficult until you figure out how to release the clips. I ended up removing the black plastic trim as well. But then realized I could have left it in and unscrewed the leveling screws slightly to loosen the assembly.

This tool came in handy for the adjustment screws after I installed the new ones.
Should have used it to remove them as well



If you have time and patience, it’s a pretty straightforward DYI.

Happy with the new look.

Thanks for the help oqjnLu !


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That ratchet is just what I needed as well. A regular Torx socket on a 3/8" drive wouldn't fit in the
available space, necessitating my removal of the larger black plastic piece on both sides. Good find!

Is that Volcano Gray? ...and it came with the black lettering or you changed it to the black?
 

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Yes. Volcano Grey. I changed the silver letters to black.
I bought them from max speed last Fall


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Hey I saw your car on Amherst St in Nashua a few days ago I noticed your tail lights immediately... Drove me nuts wondering how what appeared to be a US spec Turbo had lights like that :) Now I know :) Both the car and lights looked awesome !!

-Mike

Yes. Volcano Grey. I changed the silver letters to black.
I bought them from max speed last Fall


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Hey I saw your car on Amherst St in Nashua a few days ago I noticed your tail lights immediately... Drove me nuts wondering how what appeared to be a US spec Turbo had lights like that :) Now I know :) Both the car and lights looked awesome !!

-Mike
I guess that was you taking a left as I went by :)
Thanks, I installed the Euro taillights a few months ago. I’m really happy with the look

Soon I’ll complete the rear blackout by painting by turbo tips black


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