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Bose sub amp / enclosure:
View attachment 232767


Burmester sub amp / enclosure:
View attachment 232768

Do you see a nearly $4000 difference? I don't They both fit in the same space in the car and have rather cheap drivers.

I can verify that the 2015 and 2016 Bose sub amps receive line level audio from the main amp (which is fiber optic).
View attachment 232771


Not sure about the Burmester strategy but I do not see a MOST25 port on the sub amp. I assume they use the Bose strategy as well:
View attachment 232770

Ge0
Thanks for the great/detailed response. I agree, looks like most of the strategies for replacing the bose amp/speaker should apply to the Berm.
 

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I know as a fact that the plastic access ports on the front doors vibrate like a muther fugger when you pump up the bass. I'll need to deaden it with Dynamat.
View attachment 232772

But, that will be just another entry in my build thread...

Ge0
Only have 6.5s in the rear, so not really worried about it moving too much.

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**** you. Now I'm wondering if another set of Rockford 8s would fit back there....

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Slightly smaller hole back there (about 1” smaller). You can certainly fit the Rockford 8 (you will need to build a new spacer). Not sure you’ll be able to fit a 10”.

I accidentally built a spacer for 8” speakers for rear doors when preparing for my speakers to arrive, because the specs for the 6.5” speakers were wrong in the tech sheet. And that’s about the max you could go with a spacer.

Hum.... I would have the option of move my AP8’s to the rear and get 10” for the front. I might do that in the future.... ding it!!! Now you are starting to put more expensive ideas in my head too.


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Slightly smaller hole back there (about 1” smaller). You can certainly fit the Rockford 8 (you will need to build a new spacer). Not sure you’ll be able to fit a 10”.

I accidentally build a spacer for 8” speakers for rear doors when preparing for my speakers to arrive, because the specs for the 6.5” speakers were wrong in the tech sheet. And that’s about the max you could go with a spacer.

Hum.... I would have the option of move my AP8’s to the rear and get 10” for the front. I might do that in the future.... ding it!!! Now you are starting to put more expensive ideas in my head too.


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Its addicting. If I wasn't getting my car ceramic coated next week I'd probably already have a set on order.
 

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Audison AP2 complementing Hertz Mille 70.3 in center channel. Yes, clock is gone...

At this point, all the Bose speakers had been replaced, with some additional speakers added (midrange at rear door, which Bose system doesn’t have, and the center AP2 in the photo). All speakers are Audison with exception of the center channel (Hertz) and the 4 tweeters (Burmester with 15uF cap at front and 10uF at rear).

I got the Audison AP F8.9 amplifier and the Helix SDMI25 (on their way). I’ll take on that project probably in about 2 months... don’t have much time now.

Went from this....
233027


To this...
233010


233011


233012
 

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Well, there is good and bad in reading these forum comments. The good is the depth of knowledge and efforts put by folks who can see an answer to a problem and are happy to pursue it. The bad is that it's catching and usually ends up costing money! My kudos to @Santirx, @GeO and @surfer1313, I have read and looked at your efforts over recent weeks on this string and the other speaker upgrade string - great work, loved the pictures - even though they slow up the page read rate while they load, hear what your saying and keep it coming.

My start line is a 17 Turbo with the Bose GF6416 C7 amp (used extensively within VAG/Audi) which comes standard. I too had some concerns with Mr Bose's choice in speakers and wondered what I could do about it. Then along came these two lovely strings of knowledge and it seemed a solution was at hand. But, it had to be within limits, the space under the luggage area floor board and the practical use of the luggage space was not to be compromised - so no sub enclosure re-designs nor fancy German amps to be squeezed in. My choice then was to follow the @Santirx route - or perhaps that should be his early version!

Front Centre - Audison 3.0 Voce
Front Tweeters - Audison AP1
Front Doors - Audison AP4 mid and Audison AP8 woofer
Rear doors - Audison APK163 component set, AP6.5, AP4, and AP1 with 3 crossovers
D Pillar Surrounds - Audison 3.0 Voce
Sub Woofer - Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8

Yes, I see all the evolving wisdom about what speaker subsequently overpowers the other and whether the crossovers are good, bad or better swapped out for something even larger. Then, there are the various electronic measurement aids to help measure it - but, these as seen by today's comments in GeO's other string will then lead to you removing the fancy trim because it only influences the outcome of your hard work and makes it worse.;) Of course,if I wanted the special Sport Chrono delete option I could always follow what @Santirx has done too, but I think I will be happy to stay where I am and my early listening of just the front dash three suggested a gains made were well worth it. After scaling the 'what speakers?' hurdle, I chose what was readily available to me and I did not want to chase the Burmester route, as I skipped past the Porsche Tax on that one when I did the initial options list. So, I am now at the final hurdle of installation, having tackled the job from the Sub end then the dash then surrounds then rear doors, I am left with just the fronts to complete the 14 out and 16 in route.

From my hard work and weeks effort to date I can offer some comments that will not be surprising to those who have been there;

Sub Woofer - My car has the later small amp less enclosure, the wiring is therefore a little less challenging. The standard Bose offering is best left in the far corner to sulk, once it's rejected - for a very long time, dreadful piece rubbish comes to mind :poop:... The new Rockford fits, but at least a 14mm spacer is need to clear the internal magnet/port interface. Some serious weight gain comes from extra deadening and when complete, it looks like 4 kg of crash weight gain (speaker is 2 kg more). Noting the earlier comments about clearing the back of the car, I spaced the enclosure up 10mm (also raised slightly the little plastic locater at the bottom to match) and elongated the mount holes so I get another 5mm of forward mounting - this is important as the sub has a lot of swing when it's working and I don't want to spoil it. Further, the sound deadener going along the rear metal panel has the cutout described, to fit the factory piece already in place. In addition, I added a fair bit to the long flat plastic trim piece that clips over the rear door lower striker area as I figured it was immediately opposite and above the sub's work space and was just thin and flat.

Front Tweeters - Removing plastic trim is often the easiest bit, putting it back isn't! Yes, I took it easy with the screen and happily got no cracks. Out with the Bose, but what a horribly short piece of wire on the right side less than half the length of the left side. The AP1's have their own crossover so no extra capacitors required, looked at the 'remove existing socket and re-use' option but in the end, it was 'off with their heads' and solder direct to the end of the crossover wiring - **** that extra short wire they give you!:mad: Tuck it all back in and tuck the crossovers in out of the way too. Right side trim in then left side and it's an argument, ascending screen trim piece is bottom easy but of so nasty getting the top plastic plug back into the hole so the screw lines up. Watch these plastic caps as they sometimes fall off when you remove this piece.

Centre Speaker - Follow the good guidance, 'lift then separate' as the ad used to say ... Remove the stock Bose and send it to the same corner ... Right I have a hole to fill, need a small spacer as I am not willing to make holes to match the AP 3.0. Some 6mm ply and the router adapter I made for my mill, combined with the rotary turntable bring results. Line the hole and the surround with deadener and muse on the grill going over the top of it all. Again, I chose the 'off with the head' wiring solution and remove the stock connector but reused it as suggested by de-soldering the speaker wire and re-connecting them to a short lead. Wired up, screwed down and recovered by the grill, it looks nice. My, what a difference changing just four speakers makes - 'are you listening you three speakers over in the far corner?' ...:sleep:

Surrounds - Ok, the word is to watch out for those clips that fall off when you pull away the last piece. Yes, I have got one side off and look there are two clips still in their place on the body and not in the plastic piece. The other side and it's coming away slowly ... tinkle clang as one clip falls o_O Before I put my collected pieces back, I go ahead and remove the complete lower section of the rear side trims, this makes it easier to locate the falen clip and to re-fit it all later (if I could have located that fallen clip!). Remove the speakers and look longingly towards that far corner, yes they can join the other four! New spacer pieces here to fit the AP3.0 were exactly as per the centre speaker, but some trimming of foam sealing rings was required. Wire the short jumper leads to the reconfigured stock connectors and mount it all up. With the bottom trims removed and the clips recovered from the body, I used a light smear of vaseline jelly on all these metal clips to aid the refit. It's tedious work getting all the trim pieces back in, in sequence and fitted right.

Rear Doors - Read back in the forum notes and pay attention! Clip the plastic trim and light out, remove the screws and lift. Unhook the wiring and lock pull cable - my how they change each electrical socket retaining clip. :unsure: Some creative work required here with spacers, but with excellent photographic evidence provided before, it's a bouncing ball. I chose MDF here, but made sure I painted it before I installed the finished product - water loves bare MDF! Tweeter and mid fitting with crossovers came easy thanks to @Santirx. My mid AP4's required some foam sealers and I screwed them direct to the door panels at two points then made an aluminium boomerang (ah, I did get that Aussie connection in :)) shaped clip to place against the speaker edge for the third screw position of the door, saving a need for something special in spacer adapter. Wiring, I bought the two wires together in parallel from the crossovers for the tweeter and mid into a two connector of the style used by @Santirx. For the woofer, I joined the spacer adapter wires to the factory 'in' wiring - yes, it was 'off with it's head' and then put them into the female half of the previous connector. Had a look as some deadener inside the door on the skin and also on the door black plastic 'drum' piece. Tied back all loose wiring and now it's ready for today's close up.

General Observation - There must be a conspiracy of sorts among the makers of spade connectors, it's not a metric/imperial thing though. It's just that the guy who makes the speaker with the male spade lugs is not the guy who makes the female version spade connectors, he works for a different bunch. Somewhere in the middle they seem to add or subtract a little bit so that when it comes time to put the two together, the small negative female connector onto the small male speaker terminal it won't fit. Or the larger female spade terminal on your loose wire is just too big for the male spade on the speaker ...:mad: Am I the only one?

More to follow when I get the front doors done. Enjoy your day.:giggle::cool:
 

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Well, there is good and bad in reading these forum comments. The good is the depth of knowledge and efforts put by folks who can see an answer to a problem and are happy to pursue it. The bad is that it's catching and usually ends up costing money! My kudos to @Santirx, @GeO and @surfer1313, I have read and looked at your efforts over recent weeks on this string and the other speaker upgrade string - great work, loved the pictures - even though they slow up the page read rate while they load, hear what your saying and keep it coming.

My start line is a 17 Turbo with the Bose GF6416 C7 amp (used extensively within VAG/Audi) which comes standard. I too had some concerns with Mr Bose's choice in speakers and wondered what I could do about it. Then along came these two lovely strings of knowledge and it seemed a solution was at hand. But, it had to be within limits, the space under the luggage area floor board and the practical use of the luggage space was not to be compromised - so no sub enclosure re-designs nor fancy German amps to be squeezed in. My choice then was to follow the @Santirx route - or perhaps that should be his early version!

Front Centre - Audison 3.0 Voce
Front Tweeters - Audison AP1
Front Doors - Audison AP4 mid and Audison AP8 woofer
Rear doors - Audison APK163 component set, AP6.5, AP4, and AP1 with 3 crossovers
D Pillar Surrounds - Audison 3.0 Voce
Sub Woofer - Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8

Yes, I see all the evolving wisdom about what speaker subsequently overpowers the other and whether the crossovers are good, bad or better swapped out for something even larger. Then, there are the various electronic measurement aids to help measure it - but, these as seen by today's comments in GeO's other string will then lead to you removing the fancy trim because it only influences the outcome of your hard work and makes it worse.;) Of course,if I wanted the special Sport Chrono delete option I could always follow what @Santirx has done too, but I think I will be happy to stay where I am and my early listening of just the front dash three suggested a gains made were well worth it. After scaling the 'what speakers?' hurdle, I chose what was readily available to me and I did not want to chase the Burmester route, as I skipped past the Porsche Tax on that one when I did the initial options list. So, I am now at the final hurdle of installation, having tackled the job from the Sub end then the dash then surrounds then rear doors, I am left with just the fronts to complete the 14 out and 16 in route.

From my hard work and weeks effort to date I can offer some comments that will not be surprising to those who have been there;

Sub Woofer - My car has the later small amp less enclosure, the wiring is therefore a little less challenging. The standard Bose offering is best left in the far corner to sulk, once it's rejected - for a very long time, dreadful piece rubbish comes to mind :poop:... The new Rockford fits, but at least a 14mm spacer is need to clear the internal magnet/port interface. Some serious weight gain comes from extra deadening and when complete, it looks like 4 kg of crash weight gain (speaker is 2 kg more). Noting the earlier comments about clearing the back of the car, I spaced the enclosure up 10mm (also raised slightly the little plastic locater at the bottom to match) and elongated the mount holes so I get another 5mm of forward mounting - this is important as the sub has a lot of swing when it's working and I don't want to spoil it. Further, the sound deadener going along the rear metal panel has the cutout described, to fit the factory piece already in place. In addition, I added a fair bit to the long flat plastic trim piece that clips over the rear door lower striker area as I figured it was immediately opposite and above the sub's work space and was just thin and flat.

Front Tweeters - Removing plastic trim is often the easiest bit, putting it back isn't! Yes, I took it easy with the screen and happily got no cracks. Out with the Bose, but what a horribly short piece of wire on the right side less than half the length of the left side. The AP1's have their own crossover so no extra capacitors required, looked at the 'remove existing socket and re-use' option but in the end, it was 'off with their heads' and solder direct to the end of the crossover wiring - **** that extra short wire they give you!:mad: Tuck it all back in and tuck the crossovers in out of the way too. Right side trim in then left side and it's an argument, ascending screen trim piece is bottom easy but of so nasty getting the top plastic plug back into the hole so the screw lines up. Watch these plastic caps as they sometimes fall off when you remove this piece.

Centre Speaker - Follow the good guidance, 'lift then separate' as the ad used to say ... Remove the stock Bose and send it to the same corner ... Right I have a hole to fill, need a small spacer as I am not willing to make holes to match the AP 3.0. Some 6mm ply and the router adapter I made for my mill, combined with the rotary turntable bring results. Line the hole and the surround with deadener and muse on the grill going over the top of it all. Again, I chose the 'off with the head' wiring solution and remove the stock connector but reused it as suggested by de-soldering the speaker wire and re-connecting them to a short lead. Wired up, screwed down and recovered by the grill, it looks nice. My, what a difference changing just four speakers makes - 'are you listening you three speakers over in the far corner?' ...:sleep:

Surrounds - Ok, the word is to watch out for those clips that fall off when you pull away the last piece. Yes, I have got one side off and look there are two clips still in their place on the body and not in the plastic piece. The other side and it's coming away slowly ... tinkle clang as one clip falls o_O Before I put my collected pieces back, I go ahead and remove the complete lower section of the rear side trims, this makes it easier to locate the falen clip and to re-fit it all later (if I could have located that fallen clip!). Remove the speakers and look longingly towards that far corner, yes they can join the other four! New spacer pieces here to fit the AP3.0 were exactly as per the centre speaker, but some trimming of foam sealing rings was required. Wire the short jumper leads to the reconfigured stock connectors and mount it all up. With the bottom trims removed and the clips recovered from the body, I used a light smear of vaseline jelly on all these metal clips to aid the refit. It's tedious work getting all the trim pieces back in, in sequence and fitted right.

Rear Doors - Read back in the forum notes and pay attention! Clip the plastic trim and light out, remove the screws and lift. Unhook the wiring and lock pull cable - my how they change each electrical socket retaining clip. :unsure: Some creative work required here with spacers, but with excellent photographic evidence provided before, it's a bouncing ball. I chose MDF here, but made sure I painted it before I installed the finished product - water loves bare MDF! Tweeter and mid fitting with crossovers came easy thanks to @Santirx. My mid AP4's required some foam sealers and I screwed them direct to the door panels at two points then made an aluminium boomerang (ah, I did get that Aussie connection in :)) shaped clip to place against the speaker edge for the third screw position of the door, saving a need for something special in spacer adapter. Wiring, I bought the two wires together in parallel from the crossovers for the tweeter and mid into a two connector of the style used by @Santirx. For the woofer, I joined the spacer adapter wires to the factory 'in' wiring - yes, it was 'off with it's head' and then put them into the female half of the previous connector. Had a look as some deadener inside the door on the skin and also on the door black plastic 'drum' piece. Tied back all loose wiring and now it's ready for today's close up.

General Observation - There must be a conspiracy of sorts among the makers of spade connectors, it's not a metric/imperial thing though. It's just that the guy who makes the speaker with the male spade lugs is not the guy who makes the female version spade connectors, he works for a different bunch. Somewhere in the middle they seem to add or subtract a little bit so that when it comes time to put the two together, the small negative female connector onto the small male speaker terminal it won't fit. Or the larger female spade terminal on your loose wire is just too big for the male spade on the speaker ...:mad: Am I the only one?

More to follow when I get the front doors done. Enjoy your day.:giggle::cool:
You would have saved me half an hour of reading if you just posted a few pictures LOL!!!

Seriously though. Not sure what you were up to with your subwoofer install. Your description confused me / lost me. Do you have a picture or two?

Ge0
 

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Well, there is good and bad in reading these forum comments. The good is the depth of knowledge and efforts put by folks who can see an answer to a problem and are happy to pursue it. The bad is that it's catching and usually ends up costing money! My kudos to @Santirx, @GeO and @surfer1313, I have read and looked at your efforts over recent weeks on this string and the other speaker upgrade string - great work, loved the pictures - even though they slow up the page read rate while they load, hear what your saying and keep it coming.

My start line is a 17 Turbo with the Bose GF6416 C7 amp (used extensively within VAG/Audi) which comes standard. I too had some concerns with Mr Bose's choice in speakers and wondered what I could do about it. Then along came these two lovely strings of knowledge and it seemed a solution was at hand. But, it had to be within limits, the space under the luggage area floor board and the practical use of the luggage space was not to be compromised - so no sub enclosure re-designs nor fancy German amps to be squeezed in. My choice then was to follow the @Santirx route - or perhaps that should be his early version!

Front Centre - Audison 3.0 Voce
Front Tweeters - Audison AP1
Front Doors - Audison AP4 mid and Audison AP8 woofer
Rear doors - Audison APK163 component set, AP6.5, AP4, and AP1 with 3 crossovers
D Pillar Surrounds - Audison 3.0 Voce
Sub Woofer - Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8

Yes, I see all the evolving wisdom about what speaker subsequently overpowers the other and whether the crossovers are good, bad or better swapped out for something even larger. Then, there are the various electronic measurement aids to help measure it - but, these as seen by today's comments in GeO's other string will then lead to you removing the fancy trim because it only influences the outcome of your hard work and makes it worse.;) Of course,if I wanted the special Sport Chrono delete option I could always follow what @Santirx has done too, but I think I will be happy to stay where I am and my early listening of just the front dash three suggested a gains made were well worth it. After scaling the 'what speakers?' hurdle, I chose what was readily available to me and I did not want to chase the Burmester route, as I skipped past the Porsche Tax on that one when I did the initial options list. So, I am now at the final hurdle of installation, having tackled the job from the Sub end then the dash then surrounds then rear doors, I am left with just the fronts to complete the 14 out and 16 in route.

From my hard work and weeks effort to date I can offer some comments that will not be surprising to those who have been there;

Sub Woofer - My car has the later small amp less enclosure, the wiring is therefore a little less challenging. The standard Bose offering is best left in the far corner to sulk, once it's rejected - for a very long time, dreadful piece rubbish comes to mind :poop:... The new Rockford fits, but at least a 14mm spacer is need to clear the internal magnet/port interface. Some serious weight gain comes from extra deadening and when complete, it looks like 4 kg of crash weight gain (speaker is 2 kg more). Noting the earlier comments about clearing the back of the car, I spaced the enclosure up 10mm (also raised slightly the little plastic locater at the bottom to match) and elongated the mount holes so I get another 5mm of forward mounting - this is important as the sub has a lot of swing when it's working and I don't want to spoil it. Further, the sound deadener going along the rear metal panel has the cutout described, to fit the factory piece already in place. In addition, I added a fair bit to the long flat plastic trim piece that clips over the rear door lower striker area as I figured it was immediately opposite and above the sub's work space and was just thin and flat.

Front Tweeters - Removing plastic trim is often the easiest bit, putting it back isn't! Yes, I took it easy with the screen and happily got no cracks. Out with the Bose, but what a horribly short piece of wire on the right side less than half the length of the left side. The AP1's have their own crossover so no extra capacitors required, looked at the 'remove existing socket and re-use' option but in the end, it was 'off with their heads' and solder direct to the end of the crossover wiring - **** that extra short wire they give you!:mad: Tuck it all back in and tuck the crossovers in out of the way too. Right side trim in then left side and it's an argument, ascending screen trim piece is bottom easy but of so nasty getting the top plastic plug back into the hole so the screw lines up. Watch these plastic caps as they sometimes fall off when you remove this piece.

Centre Speaker - Follow the good guidance, 'lift then separate' as the ad used to say ... Remove the stock Bose and send it to the same corner ... Right I have a hole to fill, need a small spacer as I am not willing to make holes to match the AP 3.0. Some 6mm ply and the router adapter I made for my mill, combined with the rotary turntable bring results. Line the hole and the surround with deadener and muse on the grill going over the top of it all. Again, I chose the 'off with the head' wiring solution and remove the stock connector but reused it as suggested by de-soldering the speaker wire and re-connecting them to a short lead. Wired up, screwed down and recovered by the grill, it looks nice. My, what a difference changing just four speakers makes - 'are you listening you three speakers over in the far corner?' ...:sleep:

Surrounds - Ok, the word is to watch out for those clips that fall off when you pull away the last piece. Yes, I have got one side off and look there are two clips still in their place on the body and not in the plastic piece. The other side and it's coming away slowly ... tinkle clang as one clip falls o_O Before I put my collected pieces back, I go ahead and remove the complete lower section of the rear side trims, this makes it easier to locate the falen clip and to re-fit it all later (if I could have located that fallen clip!). Remove the speakers and look longingly towards that far corner, yes they can join the other four! New spacer pieces here to fit the AP3.0 were exactly as per the centre speaker, but some trimming of foam sealing rings was required. Wire the short jumper leads to the reconfigured stock connectors and mount it all up. With the bottom trims removed and the clips recovered from the body, I used a light smear of vaseline jelly on all these metal clips to aid the refit. It's tedious work getting all the trim pieces back in, in sequence and fitted right.

Rear Doors - Read back in the forum notes and pay attention! Clip the plastic trim and light out, remove the screws and lift. Unhook the wiring and lock pull cable - my how they change each electrical socket retaining clip. :unsure: Some creative work required here with spacers, but with excellent photographic evidence provided before, it's a bouncing ball. I chose MDF here, but made sure I painted it before I installed the finished product - water loves bare MDF! Tweeter and mid fitting with crossovers came easy thanks to @Santirx. My mid AP4's required some foam sealers and I screwed them direct to the door panels at two points then made an aluminium boomerang (ah, I did get that Aussie connection in :)) shaped clip to place against the speaker edge for the third screw position of the door, saving a need for something special in spacer adapter. Wiring, I bought the two wires together in parallel from the crossovers for the tweeter and mid into a two connector of the style used by @Santirx. For the woofer, I joined the spacer adapter wires to the factory 'in' wiring - yes, it was 'off with it's head' and then put them into the female half of the previous connector. Had a look as some deadener inside the door on the skin and also on the door black plastic 'drum' piece. Tied back all loose wiring and now it's ready for today's close up.

General Observation - There must be a conspiracy of sorts among the makers of spade connectors, it's not a metric/imperial thing though. It's just that the guy who makes the speaker with the male spade lugs is not the guy who makes the female version spade connectors, he works for a different bunch. Somewhere in the middle they seem to add or subtract a little bit so that when it comes time to put the two together, the small negative female connector onto the small male speaker terminal it won't fit. Or the larger female spade terminal on your loose wire is just too big for the male spade on the speaker ...:mad: Am I the only one?

More to follow when I get the front doors done. Enjoy your day.:giggle::cool:
This is an great write up, almost poetic. You must be a professional writer. Eventhough there were no photos, I completely visualized your installation process through your writing. I deeply enjoyed reading this, and got some laughs in the process.

Well done! Can't wait to hear the rest of your story.

Also, glad we could help! @Ge0 had been the master of knowledge here, all the rest of us are his "padawans"...

This had been a joyful journey.

Cheers,

Santirx
 

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Discussion Starter #492
Just an Epic thread....keeps on getting better !


2016 Macan T
 

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@GeO said quote: (got to work out how to do this properly ...)

You would have saved me half an hour of reading if you just posted a few pictures LOL!!!

Seriously though. Not sure what you were up to with your subwoofer install. Your description confused me / lost me. Do you have a picture or two?


In my defence Sir, you will note that the anything held 'in camera' is according to Latin ' in a chamber' and when used in the legal sense means keeping things in private. Now if I post my images, I would not be doing that would I? :unsure: ;)

Why post images when you don't know how to get them on the # forum without resorting to having more 'electronic string' added (Photobox or Dropbox or something ...). 'Good grief Charlie Brown', youv'e already posted an excellent photo, which I will share from your other link (and that took me a looong time to work out how get that one done)

233123


So, the sub woofer goes in the hole ... I know, itsounds very much like the opening of a joke. :unsure:

It is located with the speaker facing rearwards, very close to the black sound deadener panel at the bottom of the image. Note how this panel also tapers as it goes down so the bottom of the speaker is very close to it and given it is a woofer, it has a lot of cone displacement. Not wanting to create a Frankenmonster Mk2, I realised I needed to move the speaker enclosure as far forward and a little higher in the space as I could - this would leave space for the woofer to 'woof':giggle:. Space limits, were the plastic support for the battery cover to the front and the clearance under the spare wheel cover board above.

So,what I did was to put two 10mm thick spacers at the points you conveniently arrowed for me above, I then filed a little relief into the mounting holes of the enclosure so that the whole enclosure would sit 5mm further forward. Also, the plastic locating lug (just to the right of the battery hold down bracket) which fits into the bottom of the sub enclosure had to be raised slightly to meet the now higher base of the sub enclosure.

Of interest, this plastic knob can be un-screwed to reveal a 6mm threaded stud (now this could be a very handy stud for folk who are thinking of mounting big Helix boxes in lieu of a sub enclosure (y) ... but you have already glued it!). Further to this, I also used some closed cell foam packing pieces immediately to the left and right of the battery clamp to go under the sub enclosure to further support my now extremely weighty woofer.

As I said, while I was in there, I pulled the black plastic trim piece across the bottom of the photo and added some sound deadener to it's back - it is after all one long flat and flimsy piece located right in the firing line ...

I hope Sir that I have given clarity to what might have otherwise been well, dare I say, muddy!

Keep the speaker upgrade faith, I am off to do more on the front doors now.

Yurfthfllsvnt :rolleyes:
 

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So in other words:

You scooted the enclosure up 10mm and back 5mm away from the rear wall of the vehicle so the subwoofer cone would not hit the sheet metal. You also added some dampening material to tame vibrations. OK then. Thx.

Ge0
 

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@GeO said quote: (got to work out how to do this properly ...)

You would have saved me half an hour of reading if you just posted a few pictures LOL!!!

Seriously though. Not sure what you were up to with your subwoofer install. Your description confused me / lost me. Do you have a picture or two?


In my defence Sir, you will note that the anything held 'in camera' is according to Latin ' in a chamber' and when used in the legal sense means keeping things in private. Now if I post my images, I would not be doing that would I? :unsure: ;)

Why post images when you don't know how to get them on the # forum without resorting to having more 'electronic string' added (Photobox or Dropbox or something ...). 'Good grief Charlie Brown', youv'e already posted an excellent photo, which I will share from your other link (and that took me a looong time to work out how get that one done)

View attachment 233123

So, the sub woofer goes in the hole ... I know, itsounds very much like the opening of a joke. :unsure:

It is located with the speaker facing rearwards, very close to the black sound deadener panel at the bottom of the image. Note how this panel also tapers as it goes down so the bottom of the speaker is very close to it and given it is a woofer, it has a lot of cone displacement. Not wanting to create a Frankenmonster Mk2, I realised I needed to move the speaker enclosure as far forward and a little higher in the space as I could - this would leave space for the woofer to 'woof':giggle:. Space limits, were the plastic support for the battery cover to the front and the clearance under the spare wheel cover board above.

So,what I did was to put two 10mm thick spacers at the points you conveniently arrowed for me above, I then filed a little relief into the mounting holes of the enclosure so that the whole enclosure would sit 5mm further forward. Also, the plastic locating lug (just to the right of the battery hold down bracket) which fits into the bottom of the sub enclosure had to be raised slightly to meet the now higher base of the sub enclosure.

Of interest, this plastic knob can be un-screwed to reveal a 6mm threaded stud (now this could be a very handy stud for folk who are thinking of mounting big Helix boxes in lieu of a sub enclosure (y) ... but you have already glued it!). Further to this, I also used some closed cell foam packing pieces immediately to the left and right of the battery clamp to go under the sub enclosure to further support my now extremely weighty woofer.

As I said, while I was in there, I pulled the black plastic trim piece across the bottom of the photo and added some sound deadener to it's back - it is after all one long flat and flimsy piece located right in the firing line ...

I hope Sir that I have given clarity to what might have otherwise been well, dare I say, muddy!

Keep the speaker upgrade faith, I am off to do more on the front doors now.

Yurfthfllsvnt :rolleyes:
Didn't happen if there is no photo evidence to document it :cool::p:poop: <-- Yes, I am being a turd :)

Ge0
 

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I started with a standard audio system in my MY16 as Bose was terrible sound and Burmester was too expensive for what it gave (~AUD$11k). I approached my audio upgrade as follows:

1. The PCM would not play WAV files consistently and would not order them (despite Porsche claims) so after a lot of testing I found that by using an iPhone with AIF files that I could play 192kHZ 24 bit files with all atrwork, album, track ordering correct.

2. Changed the front and rear speakers to Focal units:
FRONT: Focal Expert PS 165F3 - 3 way
REAR: Focal Expert PS 165FX - 2 way
Both were installed with additional sound deadening.

Sound was certainly improved, but not where I wanted it to be. Working on the principle that Porsche would likely use the same head unit for each of the three audio specs in order to reduce SKUs and streamline manufacturing - and therefore would have used high quality DAC(s) that the Burmester would need to produce anything reasonable (big call but seems to be correct at least as far as the DACs are concerned) - the amps were then the next focus:

3. Installed an Audison Prima 8.9BIT to look after the OEM speaker configuration.
Installed an Audison AP1D amp to drive the Audison sub that I mentioned in my earlier post.
Both amps were located in the OEM amp location back to back.

The system was tuned using the Audison BIT Tune Software to suit. PCM Sound remains functional for all parameters.

The reason that I detailed this is because what I found is that the biggest sound quality improvement was with the amps (and the associated tuning) followed by the uncompressed file types, then the sub and then the other speakers.
Sound quality is now quite a lot better than with Burmester IMO and half the price over here.
Hope this helps with the thinking for your project.
Did you replace the front door woofer with the 6.5 Focal?
 

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Sub Woofer - (speaker is 2 kg more).
The Rockford Fosgate is a heavy sub. It adds a lot of weight to the box.

The Audison Prima APS 8D is much lighter, more similar to the previous Bose sub.
 

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I decided to return the JL crossovers. I think is just an added headache because of the size and I didn't feel the sound was as good.

Today I tested the JL crossover, installed in door panel. Cut a screw anchor and put it into one of these holes...



Used a screw and deaden material to affix the XO to the panel:


This shows everything connected. I was able to install the panel back with no issues.



I tested using different midrange and tweeter settings. I removed it afterwards, and I’ll only install if necessary when I install the Audison AP F8.9.

I believe that the Audison XO were doing a better job with audio quality than the JL XO, but I need to do more testing. The Audison XO may be better tuned to the Audison speakers. I’m only using the Audison woofer and midrange part of the Audison XO.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Bose sub amp / enclosure:
View attachment 232767


Burmester sub amp / enclosure:
View attachment 232768

Do you see a nearly $4000 difference? I don't They both fit in the same space in the car and have rather cheap drivers.

I can verify that the 2015 and 2016 Bose sub amps receive line level audio from the main amp (which is fiber optic).
View attachment 232771


Not sure about the Burmester strategy but I do not see a MOST25 port on the sub amp. I assume they use the Bose strategy as well:
View attachment 232770

Ge0
Talk about great threads, thanks everyone for adding to this great content along with Geo's separate thread. I've been reviewing options on the sub box. Looked at a custom boxing the wheel well or off the of the rear sides of the car where the panels come off--notably the passenger side. After horrific high costs of doing this at a shop. I'm beginning to lean on buying the factory Bose or Burmster box. I understand that a custom box will have the biggest yields but I am budgeting a lot more now since I blew way past my budget already, I'm sure many of you can relate LOL.

Anyway, I have a ROCKFORD FOSGATE PUNCH P3S SHALLOW SERIES 2-OHM DVC SUBWOOFER that I'd like to put place of the Bose/Burmster box. With an adaptor ring, does anyone know if it will fit ok? Will there be enough space for it to sound good with sound deadener and poly fill? With that said which version of the box should i look for? Bose or Burmster? I would imagine there's a not a big difference with the post above, but I could be wrong because I don't have them physically both in front of me.
 

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Talk about great threads, thanks everyone for adding to this great content along with Geo's separate thread. I've been reviewing options on the sub box. Looked at a custom boxing the wheel well or off the of the rear sides of the car where the panels come off--notably the passenger side. After horrific high costs of doing this at a shop. I'm beginning to lean on buying the factory Bose or Burmster box. I understand that a custom box will have the biggest yields but I am budgeting a lot more now since I blew way past my budget already, I'm sure many of you can relate LOL.

Anyway, I have a ROCKFORD FOSGATE PUNCH P3S SHALLOW SERIES 2-OHM DVC SUBWOOFER that I'd like to put place of the Bose/Burmster box. With an adaptor ring, does anyone know if it will fit ok? Will there be enough space for it to sound good with sound deadener and poly fill? With that said which version of the box should i look for? Bose or Burmster? I would imagine there's a not a big difference with the post above, but I could be wrong because I don't have them physically both in front of me.
Which RF do you have (what size). I know the Bose box is 8". I think the Burmester box is 10" (please confirm). But I have not seen any Burmesters boxes for sale (at least not on eBay or any other resale). Have seen many Bose boxes for sale at eBay.

If you have the 8" version of the RF, you'll be able to fit it with a 1/2" ring spacer. I used to have the RF in my Bose box, which I fit with the 1/2" spacer. I moved to an Audison APS-8D since then, and selling my RF on eBay.

Look at previous posts in this thread.
 
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