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. Or, you could use the BOSE power wiring to run Helix and use heavier gage cable to power your amps.

Ge0
Thanks. This is the plan I’ll follow. Use Bose wires to power helix and 8Ga to power amp.


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Here is what I currently have to power my sub amp. I don't like leaving this fuse holder loose. I don't like un-fused wire runs longer than 6" from the battery. I intend on making a bracket for it and mount to the car closer to the battery tap somehow:
232596


232597



Here are the fuse holders I will use. The single unit will have an 80A fuse. The two way distribution block will be mounted to the back of my sub amp rack. It will have 40A fuses.
232599


232600


232601



Ge0
 

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My Audison APS-8D subwoofer arrived today from U.K... I thought the magnet was not going to clear the port, hence I was already making plans on how to modify the box with PVC, fiberglass and resin...



To my surprise, when I tested it, the magnet cleared the port and it was a perfect fit with a 1/2” spacer.



I removed the spacer to see if it would fit without, but the circumference is too big, it needs the spacer. In addition, there are two notches that I would have to shave to make it fit.

Given this, I installed it and tested it (a quick install).



I did a short test, and although this sub (in paper) should deliver more punch, I was underwhelmed when compared to the RF P3SD2-8. It may be the sub amp not driving it as it should. I’ll swap the amp, most likely this weekend, and it should make a difference.










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My Audison APS-8D subwoofer arrived today from U.K... I thought the magnet was not going to clear the port, hence I was already making plans on how to modify the box with PVC, fiberglass and resin...



To my surprise, when I tested it, the magnet cleared the port and it was a perfect fit with a 1/2” spacer.



I removed the spacer to see if it would fit without, but the circumference is too big, it needs the spacer. In addition, there are two notches that I would have to shave to make it fit.

Given this, I installed it and tested it (a quick install).



I did a short test, and although this sub (in paper) should deliver more punch, I was underwhelmed when compared to the RF P3SD2-8. It may be the sub amp not driving it as it should. I’ll swap the amp, most likely this weekend, and it should make a difference.


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Yep. Sensitivity rating and suspension compliance's are probably different. That and the Bose sub amp puts out about 120W. You're little Toro should light things up. Which reminds me, I wanted to share a few pointers with you.

Grounding point for your sub amp is simple. I used the battery strap bolt:
232615


Grounding for the main amp. Use the factory grounding stud in RED. Or, the spare grounding studs in YELLOW. If using any of these make sure they are clear of paint for maximum conductivity. Sand paper, sanding disc, whatever. Clear the paint away to get a good electrical bond.
232617



Ge0
 

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Cool! I'll wire the sub amp first with the kit I bought, although I want to do better wiring management when the AP F8.9 arrives, similar to what you will do, coming with a single wire from battery and then a 2-way block to split power between amp and sub amp. I'll power the Helix with the Bose power leads.

One question I have is, when you install the positive wire, assuming you didn't disconnect power to the car, right? I know bad things can happen if you disconnect main power lead to the car (loss of configuration settings) and it is recommended you have a battery charger connected when doing this type of operation. Maybe where you chose to connect, it doesn't have any impact. Looking for some guidance.

Yep. Sensitivity rating and suspension compliance's are probably different. That and the Bose sub amp puts out about 120W. You're little Toro should light things up. Which reminds me, I wanted to share a few pointers with you.

Grounding point for your sub amp is simple. I used the battery strap bolt:
View attachment 232615

Grounding for the main amp. Use the factory grounding stud in RED. Or, the spare grounding studs in YELLOW. If using any of these make sure they are clear of paint for maximum conductivity. Sand paper, sanding disc, whatever. Clear the paint away to get a good electrical bond.
View attachment 232617


Ge0
 

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Cool! I'll wire the sub amp first with the kit I bought, although I want to do better wiring management when the AP F8.9 arrives, similar to what you will do, coming with a single wire from battery and then a 2-way block to split power between amp and sub amp. I'll power the Helix with the Bose power leads.

One question I have is, when you install the positive wire, assuming you didn't disconnect power to the car, right? I know bad things can happen if you disconnect main power lead to the car (loss of configuration settings) and it is recommended you have a battery charger connected when doing this type of operation. Maybe where you chose to connect, it doesn't have any impact. Looking for some guidance.
OK. Look at the network of wires coming off the battery block. I chose to loosen and attach to the stud for the starter. The other power taps remained unchanged. Therefore, no loss of any memory / configuration functions. I did not remove a main power terminal from the battery.

In retrospect this is bad practice. Normally you would disconnect the batteries ground terminal before working on a car. But, this is a Porsche. The same practice does not apply.

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I installed the Toro-Tech MR2 sub amp today, finally!!








This little amp is really a beast. It really woke up the Audison APS-8D.

Used the OEM connector to tap into the sub(+)/sub(-) and (sig) wires.



I used a quick connect also for the sub box:








Sincere thanks to @Ge0 for all his recommendations and guidance through the process.

More guidance needed later for the amp and Helix installation...


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I verified this is the main Bose amps grounding point. When you o to install your Audison amp and Helix adapter use this point (big Brown wire):
232665
 

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I installed the Toro-Tech MR2 sub amp today, finally!!








This little amp is really a beast. It really woke up the Audison APS-8D.

Used the OEM connector to tap into the sub(+)/sub(-) and (sig) wires.



I used a quick connect also for the sub box:








Sincere thanks to @Ge0 for all his recommendations and guidance through the process.

More guidance needed later for the amp and Helix installation...


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Nice job man (y).

Everyone, is it just me or does this guys car always look clean as a whistle?

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Nice job man (y).

Everyone, is it just me or does this guys car always look clean as a whistle?

Ge0
Ha Ha! Yes. I’m OCD with my car. My wife’s XC90 on the other hand, is our work horse... especially going to softball tournaments, practices, etc... our daughter is a catcher and dirt is her best friend... only the XC90 sees that.


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Ha Ha! Yes. I’m OCD with my car. My wife’s XC90 on the other hand, is our work horse... especially going to softball tournaments, practices, etc... our daughter is a catcher and dirt is her best friend... only the XC90 sees that.


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LOL!!!

I know. I was glad when my son's spring rec league baseball season was cancelled. No way was he getting in my Porsche full of red clay dust.

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Today I tested the JL crossover, installed in door panel. Cut a screw anchor and put it into one of these holes...



Used a screw and deaden material to affix the XO to the panel:


This shows everything connected. I was able to install the panel back with no issues.



I tested using different midrange and tweeter settings. I removed it afterwards, and I’ll only install if necessary when I install the Audison AP F8.9.

I believe that the Audison XO were doing a better job with audio quality than the JL XO, but I need to do more testing. The Audison XO may be better tuned to the Audison speakers. I’m only using the Audison woofer and midrange part of the Audison XO.


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Such a great thread, subscribed just to comment on this - some amazing work. I am finalizing the deals on a used 15 with Burmester and already planning for a potential subwoofer upgrade. I have no qualms about adding a dedicated subwoofer amp, so will propose 2 questions:

1) is the input into the Burm sub amp fiber optic? Based on what I am seeing from the bose, I doubt it.

2) is the Berm and Bose subwoofer enclosure the same?
 

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My Audison AP2’s arrived from U.K. today. But ran out of places to install more speakers, however these are a beauty. Very small and wide range (can go up to tweeter range). I’ll probably do some test with them and then sell them...






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Put my crossover on the door. Used the screws to mount it to the plastic piece. Fits perfect.


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Put my crossover on the door. Used the screws to mount it to the plastic piece. Fits perfect.


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What type of support did you put on the back of the plastic? Any?


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Nope. It's pretty firm and I didn't notice any vibration

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Good to know.


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Such a great thread, subscribed just to comment on this - some amazing work. I am finalizing the deals on a used 15 with Burmester and already planning for a potential subwoofer upgrade. I have no qualms about adding a dedicated subwoofer amp, so will propose 2 questions:

1) is the input into the Burm sub amp fiber optic? Based on what I am seeing from the bose, I doubt it.

2) is the Berm and Bose subwoofer enclosure the same?
Such a great thread, subscribed just to comment on this - some amazing work. I am finalizing the deals on a used 15 with Burmester and already planning for a potential subwoofer upgrade. I have no qualms about adding a dedicated subwoofer amp, so will propose 2 questions:

1) is the input into the Burm sub amp fiber optic? Based on what I am seeing from the bose, I doubt it.

2) is the Berm and Bose subwoofer enclosure the same?
Bose sub amp / enclosure:
232767



Burmester sub amp / enclosure:
232768


Do you see a nearly $4000 difference? I don't They both fit in the same space in the car and have rather cheap drivers.

I can verify that the 2015 and 2016 Bose sub amps receive line level audio from the main amp (which is fiber optic).
232771



Not sure about the Burmester strategy but I do not see a MOST25 port on the sub amp. I assume they use the Bose strategy as well:
232770


Ge0
 

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Nope. It's pretty firm and I didn't notice any vibration

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I know as a fact that the plastic access ports on the front doors vibrate like a muther fugger when you pump up the bass. I'll need to deaden it with Dynamat.
232772


But, that will be just another entry in my build thread...

Ge0
 
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