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Cost: less than $2,000
Time: too many hours... but fun.

What is your round number out of pocket costs and how many hours do you think you would put on this project?
 

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No worries, what speaker did you load in the OEM sub box ?
Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 set at 2ohms (I also ordered the Audison APS-8D for testing, which have not arrived yet)


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D-a-m-n nice job Santrix. I'm officially inviting you over to my install party:). I have a few questions, comments, and pointers:

1.) What are those wire grommets you used to pass wires through speaker rings? They look pretty handy.

2.) Your wiring looks pretty tidy for a mechanical engineer :)

3.) Do yourself a favor and REMOVE the speed ring from the back side of the speaker. Also, if you put the big plug piece inside your door remove that too. The general consensus is the foam used absorbs water. You don't want a wet floppy foam ring collapsing and blocking off the back of your speaker. Also, that big foam plug gets saturadted and can block off water drainage to the inner door.

4.) Get yourself some sound deadening material like Dynamat, second Skin, etc. Cut strips 1" x about 3" to 4". Place perpendicular over your loose wires. This will help prevent unwanted rattles plus add a little dampening into ringing panels.

Good job ole chap!

Ge0


1. These are from 4-wire connectors I purchased from Amazon to connect my rear door midrange and tweeters, so that I be able to disconnect them easily when removing the door panel. Turns out they are a piece of crap. I bought new connectors that will be arriving today to replace them. However, they came in with these rubber grommets that were very handy. Used them to stabilize the wires not only when passing them through the spacer holes, but also in the OEM VW connectors I used to plug into factory adapters. That alone was worth the $15 I paid for them Amazon: MUYI 10 Kit 4 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Connector 1.5mm Series Terminals Amazon.com: MUYI 10 Kit 4 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Connector 1.5mm Series Terminals: Automotive

2. Thanks

3. This was done for all door woofers. Kept only the front ring and deadened the back area of where the woofer sits... thanks.

4. I installed deadening material behind wires in the front doors. I will do the rear doors today once I replace the 4-pin connectors...


Thanks for the suggestions!


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A question for those of you who have upgraded the Bose subwoofer. It seems that the majority of the subs that will fit the OEM Bose Sub box are better suited for sealed boxes (Qts between 0.4 and 0.7). For example, the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8, which is the one I bought, have a Qts of 0.72. This one is in the infinite baffle zone - Qts>0.7, but close enough to sealed parameters that I guess can be used in a sealed box. Qts for ported boxes is below 0.4, so this RF sub is nowhere near ported parameters. However, the Bose box is PORTED. Is kind of embarrassing that I didn't notice this before, but today while playing with the box, I noticed the port at the bottom...

The weird part is that the RF sub sounds very good in the box with the port opened. I sealed the port with a piece of 3/4" PVC, but it made it sound muffled.

Also, while looking at the RF sub manual, it states that can be mounted in both sealed and ported applications. This is a bit confusing.

Thoughts?
 

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Sort of like an extra set of wheels. I have been absolutely impressed at the dedication of you acousticers as you guys are crazy into this.
I imported the majority of the speakers from U.K. and Italy. Audison is not an easy brand to find in the US, and when you do find it here they are terribly expensive.


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I went back to my front door Audison AP8’s and upgraded the connectors to factory OEM adapters...

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So... now to the tweeters... I acquired the Hertz C26OE. They have a good flat response curve and down to 1.2kHz. The Burm tweets with 4.7uF caps are crossing over at 8.5kHz.

These tweeters are a bit louder than the Burm, but this could be a function of crossover frequency.

Also, see in the last photo I posted, the tweeter dome in the Burm tweeter is larger than the Hertz and seems more solid too. I believe that if I install a 10uF cap (C/O freq ~4.0kHz) or 15uF cap (C/O freq ~2.6kHz) in the Burm tweets, it will sound as good or better than the Hertz, therefore, I bought a couple of 10 and 15uF caps to start experimenting with these tweeters. Wonder if I’ll have to add an inductor to the midrange...

Also, you remember from one of my previous posts that I installed a 3-way system in my rear doors (Audison APK-163). After testing it for a while, I came to the realization that the Audison tweeter AP1 was overpowering (too loud) and was messing my settings. I decided to remove these tweeters and install the Burm tweets back, and it is much better now.

In addition, my front door AP8 and rear door AP6.5 are screaming for more power. I think I’m going to have to cave in to the aftermarket amplifier... more money!!















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This is my first post in many years, having eventually bought a Macan, initially I convinced myself (and the missus) that the Boss system was adequate and that I wasn't going to start pulling things apart in this car.... then I find these posts... you guy's have done all the hard work! I can feel a twitch starting in my left eye 🤔 the cogs have started and my brain now hurts thinking about where to start 🤯

I wonder if I can ask a few questions from those in the know before I start pulling things out. I would prefer not to have a half built car this time and hope to go in once, do the job and out minimising the risk of damage and future rattles.

Here goes..

1. I have a set of Audison AV1.1 tweeters and a set of Focal KRS100 system tweeters from previous. I know the smaller tweeters in the Focal's will go straight in as these are roughly the same size as the Hertz tweeters shown by Santirx, but not so sure about the AV1.1's which are 45mm wide with a 48mm top surface. I see @Geo managed to get a large Alpine set in there, would the available opening accept a 45mm wide tweeter with the metal clips out? I could always use the Focal's but would prefer to fit the larger tweeter favouring a wider response.

2. Can the optical connection from the head unit be accessed at the Bose amp? Again I have an Audison AP5.9 that I was considering fitting. The preference would be to locate the amp in the Bose space - can a MOST adapter be connected at the Bose amp location or is this at the head unit only?

3. Are the front 8" speakers the same? i.e. if I buy a single speaker from that website for the sole purposes of using it as a template for making spacer rings, are the left and rights the same?

4. Santrix, I was about to go down the three way route in the rear doors as you have with the Audison's. I would be using again some older gear that I have which are all 4 ohms, passive x overs with a -3/-6 db cut switch. Would this remove the concern you have with the AP1's being overpowering? It would probably be the Focal KRS100 kit that I would put in there, though I would use my existing Audison AP4's with the Focal x over and tweeters (4" mid from the Focal's would go in the front door rather than the AP4's).

I can't thank those who have contributed to this thread enough and the other highly informative post by @Geo. I've been over them page by page and the level of effort, knowledge and generosity in sharing the findings is phenomenal.

Thanks guys (y)
 

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This is my first post in many years, having eventually bought a Macan, initially I convinced myself (and the missus) that the Boss system was adequate and that I wasn't going to start pulling things apart in this car.... then I find these posts... you guy's have done all the hard work! I can feel a twitch starting in my left eye the cogs have started and my brain now hurts thinking about where to start

I wonder if I can ask a few questions from those in the know before I start pulling things out. I would prefer not to have a half built car this time and hope to go in once, do the job and out minimising the risk of damage and future rattles.

Here goes..

1. I have a set of Audison AV1.1 tweeters and a set of Focal KRS100 system tweeters from previous. I know the smaller tweeters in the Focal's will go straight in as these are roughly the same size as the Hertz tweeters shown by Santirx, but not so sure about the AV1.1's which are 45mm wide with a 48mm top surface. I see @Geo managed to get a large Alpine set in there, would the available opening accept a 45mm wide tweeter with the metal clips out? I could always use the Focal's but would prefer to fit the larger tweeter favouring a wider response.

2. Can the optical connection from the head unit be accessed at the Bose amp? Again I have an Audison AP5.9 that I was considering fitting. The preference would be to locate the amp in the Bose space - can a MOST adapter be connected at the Bose amp location or is this at the head unit only?

3. Are the front 8" speakers the same? i.e. if I buy a single speaker from that website for the sole purposes of using it as a template for making spacer rings, are the left and rights the same?

4. Santrix, I was about to go down the three way route in the rear doors as you have with the Audison's. I would be using again some older gear that I have which are all 4 ohms, passive x overs with a -3/-6 db cut switch. Would this remove the concern you have with the AP1's being overpowering? It would probably be the Focal KRS100 kit that I would put in there, though I would use my existing Audison AP4's with the Focal x over and tweeters (4" mid from the Focal's would go in the front door rather than the AP4's).

I can't thank those who have contributed to this thread enough and the other highly informative post by @Geo. I've been over them page by page and the level of effort, knowledge and generosity in sharing the findings is phenomenal.

Thanks guys (y)
Good post. I enjoyed reading it. A lot of good questions. I will take a stab at answering them, although you might want to consider the wisdom of other more experience people here....

1. There are other folks here considering the AV1.1 for the front tweeters, but as you say, space is somewhat limited. I was able to fit the Audison AP1 grill under the clips (44mm) and they were stretched but did fit and held the tweeter in place. The AV1.1 grill circumference is 48mm, but the bottom portion is 45mm. There is a chance you are able to fit the bottom portion, now I don’t know how would it hold. If you have them, it is worth at least trying.

2. The answer there is yes. You will need an interface to convert the MOST25 or MOST125. Like the Helix SDMI25 or something similar. Everything can be accessed at the rear where the amp is located. @Ge0 is doing this and your best source of information here.

3. I’m not sure what you are asking here... will leave to other more experienced people to answer. The front Bose woofers are actually 220mm, which is a little over 8.5”. I replaced those with the Audison AP8.

4. Yes, I believe so. My AP1 tweeter crossover box only have 0/+2db attenuation switch. I set it up at 0db and it was still too loud. Having the option to go lower is good.


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A question for those of you who have upgraded the Bose subwoofer. It seems that the majority of the subs that will fit the OEM Bose Sub box are better suited for sealed boxes (Qts between 0.4 and 0.7). For example, the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8, which is the one I bought, have a Qts of 0.72. This one is in the infinite baffle zone - Qts>0.7, but close enough to sealed parameters that I guess can be used in a sealed box. Qts for ported boxes is below 0.4, so this RF sub is nowhere near ported parameters. However, the Bose box is PORTED. Is kind of embarrassing that I didn't notice this before, but today while playing with the box, I noticed the port at the bottom...

The weird part is that the RF sub sounds very good in the box with the port opened. I sealed the port with a piece of 3/4" PVC, but it made it sound muffled.

Also, while looking at the RF sub manual, it states that can be mounted in both sealed and ported applications. This is a bit confusing.

Thoughts?
It's simple my friend. Go with what sounds best to you and understand why. You have the microphone and REW. Make some measurements with or without the port plugged. Maybe the volume of the BOSE sub enclosure is too small for sealed applications with that sub.

Ge0
 

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In addition, my front door AP8 and rear door AP6.5 are screaming for more power. I think I’m going to have to cave in to the aftermarket amplifier... more money!!

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It's calling you......
232457

You can't buy much better than this. I can set you up with local authorized dealers :)

Ge0
 

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This is my first post in many years, having eventually bought a Macan, initially I convinced myself (and the missus) that the Boss system was adequate and that I wasn't going to start pulling things apart in this car.... then I find these posts... you guy's have done all the hard work! I can feel a twitch starting in my left eye 🤔 the cogs have started and my brain now hurts thinking about where to start 🤯

I wonder if I can ask a few questions from those in the know before I start pulling things out. I would prefer not to have a half built car this time and hope to go in once, do the job and out minimising the risk of damage and future rattles.

Here goes..

1. I have a set of Audison AV1.1 tweeters and a set of Focal KRS100 system tweeters from previous. I know the smaller tweeters in the Focal's will go straight in as these are roughly the same size as the Hertz tweeters shown by Santirx, but not so sure about the AV1.1's which are 45mm wide with a 48mm top surface. I see @Geo managed to get a large Alpine set in there, would the available opening accept a 45mm wide tweeter with the metal clips out? I could always use the Focal's but would prefer to fit the larger tweeter favouring a wider response.

2. Can the optical connection from the head unit be accessed at the Bose amp? Again I have an Audison AP5.9 that I was considering fitting. The preference would be to locate the amp in the Bose space - can a MOST adapter be connected at the Bose amp location or is this at the head unit only?

3. Are the front 8" speakers the same? i.e. if I buy a single speaker from that website for the sole purposes of using it as a template for making spacer rings, are the left and rights the same?

4. Santrix, I was about to go down the three way route in the rear doors as you have with the Audison's. I would be using again some older gear that I have which are all 4 ohms, passive x overs with a -3/-6 db cut switch. Would this remove the concern you have with the AP1's being overpowering? It would probably be the Focal KRS100 kit that I would put in there, though I would use my existing Audison AP4's with the Focal x over and tweeters (4" mid from the Focal's would go in the front door rather than the AP4's).

I can't thank those who have contributed to this thread enough and the other highly informative post by @Geo. I've been over them page by page and the level of effort, knowledge and generosity in sharing the findings is phenomenal.

Thanks guys (y)
Let me premise this by telling you I used to compete in IASCA / MECA sound quality competitions and have modified many vehicle sound systems.

When I first bought my Macan I thought "WOW, this Bose system is pretty good". It was loud and had a lot of bass. However, it's upper end was harsh. For the most part this could be fixed by simple speaker swaps like others here. But, what really killed me was the midrange. There was none. Male vocals did not sound right at all.

To be honest, If Porsche gave us an actual multi-band EQ in the sound settings menu I may have kept the Bose system. However, simple bass and treble controls did not cut it. Then, I looked into ways to hack into the BOSE amplifier and adjust the DSP settings. There is actually no information out there on how to do this or where I could get software.

So, I decided I'm just going to gut the system and go with something I know I can make sound spectacular. I didn't hurt since we are on CV-19 lock down and I have time on my hands.

1.) My tweeters body diameter is 40.5mm. They are pretty tight in the stock location. I am sure you could fit a 45mm driver if you removed the metal clips. You could fit something even larger if you were handy at fabrication. That space can also house a Burmester AMT tweeter.

2.) I am connecting to the MOST network using the connector I unplugged from the BOSE amp. You will need a MOST25 or MOST150 adapter as Santrix mentioned.

3.) This really doesn't matter. Even if the speakers are mirror images of one another vs. identical it is only because of a plastic locating peg:
232458


I'll bet you $3.00 they are the same.

I've made speaker adapters for 10" (254mm) and 8" (203mm) drivers. Both fit the stock locations.

4.) I can't answer this. My system is fully active with no passive crossovers. That, and I currently don't plan on using the back door speakers.

Hope I helped. Good Luck

Ge0
 

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Santirx, GeO, my many thanks for the replies. Both extremely helpful.

I might be wrong with this but it looks like my 2019 Macan has a MOST150 system, meaning mega bucks for an adapter. Really can’t justify this route over going with hi level in’s from the BOSE amp. It would have been nice to take it out though and use the space.

That Helix DSP does look enticing GeO and at 12 channels would be the dogs danglies... maybe one for the future. Please add how you get on with this to your already fantastic write up.

I think I’ll start out with my Audison 5.9 adding an Alpine PDX V9 (big fan of these) to where the BOSE sub sits as you have, then a simple relatively unobtrusive / lowish weight sub can sit above with quick disconnects.

We’ll see where that leads to..
 

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Santirx, GeO, my many thanks for the replies. Both extremely helpful.

I might be wrong with this but it looks like my 2019 Macan has a MOST150 system, meaning mega bucks for an adapter. Really can’t justify this route over going with hi level in’s from the BOSE amp. It would have been nice to take it out though and use the space.

That Helix DSP does look enticing GeO and at 12 channels would be the dogs danglies... maybe one for the future. Please add how you get on with this to your already fantastic write up.

I think I’ll start out with my Audison 5.9 adding an Alpine PDX V9 (big fan of these) to where the BOSE sub sits as you have, then a simple relatively unobtrusive / lowish weight sub can sit above with quick disconnects.

We’ll see where that leads to..
NAV-TV and MOBRIDGE have MOST150 adapters. Unfortunately they are over $500. I would keep a watch out for one to come up slightly used on the DIYMA car audio forum. Those guys swap out equipment frequently.

My only reservation about using BOSE speaker signals as high level input is their massive boost and cuts they put into the signal. Otherwise I could have saved myself $500 on the MOST25 converter.

Ge0
 

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So... now to the tweeters... I acquired the Hertz C26OE. They have a good flat response curve and down to 1.2kHz. The Burm tweets with 4.7uF caps are crossing over at 8.5kHz.

These tweeters are a bit louder than the Burm, but this could be a function of crossover frequency.

Also, see in the last photo I posted, the tweeter dome in the Burm tweeter is larger than the Hertz and seems more solid too. I believe that if I install a 10uF cap (C/O freq ~4.0kHz) or 15uF cap (C/O freq ~2.6kHz) in the Burm tweets, it will sound as good or better than the Hertz, therefore, I bought a couple of 10 and 15uF caps to start experimenting with these tweeters. Wonder if I’ll have to add an inductor to the midrange...

Also, you remember from one of my previous posts that I installed a 3-way system in my rear doors (Audison APK-163). After testing it for a while, I came to the realization that the Audison tweeter AP1 was overpowering (too loud) and was messing my settings. I decided to remove these tweeters and install the Burm tweets back, and it is much better now.

In addition, my front door AP8 and rear door AP6.5 are screaming for more power. I think I’m going to have to cave in to the aftermarket amplifier... more money!!















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I received 15uF and 10uF caps for my Burmester and did extensive testing today. The Burmesters are really good quality tweeters, and sound better than the Hertz C26OE and the Audison AP1 with both 15 and 10uF caps.

I installed 15uF caps to the front Burmesters and 10uF to the rear. The 15uF cap that I bought is hifi audio grade, but is big...



This is the 10uF:



I’m returning the Hertz tweeters, and since the Audison AP1 is part of the 3-way kit, I’ll probably sell those on eBay... keeping them Burmester tweets in place.


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