Porsche Macan Forum banner

221 - 240 of 625 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
Discussion Starter #221
Geo,
I can measure the OEM tweet for you tomorrow night.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
Trying to see if I can get these guys to fit without needing to cut plastic apart:

229380
229381


IMHO one of the best car audio domed tweeters ever made. The Alpine SPX-F17T / Scanspeak D2904/610001.

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
REAR DOORS (Tweets) Straight replacement, no CAP required . Pop off panel, Getter done :)
In my 2016 Macan S the rear Bose tweeters are the exact same as the front tweeters. They all have the same part number. All have 4.7uF caps.
230831


230832


I'm not sure if this changed in the 2017+ models with the introduction of a different amp. Someone please verify...

Ge0
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
Discussion Starter #225
Geo, it’s been a while for me......but I can dig the tweets out and get a group shot ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
Very impressive. Out of all the posts here, I find yours very detailed and the one that provide information I would need to do the update myself. Thank you for the details.

I'm thinking about upgrading the sub from my Bose system, then take other steps to upgrade other speakers later. Although I have done some installations with audio (mostly radio/system upgrades), I have not done many speakers/subwoofer modifications. I'm an engineer and have done a lot of work with electronics, so I think I can figure this thing out.

What is the thickness of the dynamat you used inside the box? Is that 0.067"?

Also, I measured the impedance of my sub and the resistance measured between 4 - 5 ohms. I have the 2015 Macan.

Assuming I need the 4-ohm version of the subwoofer you purchased? to make sure I'm not going to overload the amplifier? Is that a correct assumption?

231029




I tried out the 3 subs this morning (still waiting on my tweeters), and decided to keep the RF. All 3 had cleaner lows than the Bose, but the RF sounded the best out of the 3. I think the Polk would sound better with an aftermarket amp, but I'm not planning to go that route at this point. The Pioneer was decent, but I thought the RF was just more balanced and a higher quality driver overall.

My Bose sub measured ~3.2 ohms, so I opted for the 2 ohm DVC RF sub, which when wired provided a final impedance of ~3.8 ohms (a 2 ohm DVC sub can also be wired for ~1 ohm). It's generally safe to go up in impedance, but not down. There's been others in this thread who say their subs are 2 ohm, so you probably want to check yours before ordering anything.

Anyways, the install is pretty straightforward. You simply remove the 2 torx bolts on either side of the enclosure, disconnect the single wire harness on the left, and then move the box over to your bench. The sub is held in place by 6 torx screws, which are easy to remove. If you go with the RF or Pioneer, you will need a spacer ring (I bought a pre-made 3/4" spacer off Amazon). I drilled inset holes for the stock screws to attach the ring to the Bose box. I then drilled a small set of pilot holes so the the RF sub could attach to the MDF spacer. I made some leads with spade ends so I didn't have to cut into the factory wiring.

I also added dynamat to the inside of the box, opposite the speaker to help make it a bit sturdier and mitigate any rattling. You could do this on the outside, but I didn't want to have it visible. I did try stuffing the box with poly-fil, but felt it sounded better without it.

Note: The Polk actually drops right in without a spacer, and even attaches directly to the factory connections. However, the mounting holes on the sub do not line up with the holes on the Bose box...so you'd have to find a good solution there if you go that route, since the plastic is pretty flimsy.

Overall, I'm happy with the upgrade. The bass is much cleaner, and can go up quite a bit more without distorting, though the tweeters in the front are now the main weak point. I also noticed a bit of resonance in the front doors (maybe just the driver's door?) so I may pull that apart and add some dynamat, if I find myself in the mood.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
696 Posts
Very impressive. Out of all the posts here, I find yours very detailed and the one that provide information I would need to do the update myself. Thank you for the details.

I'm thinking about upgrading the sub from my Bose system, then take other steps to upgrade other speakers later. Although I have done some installations with audio (mostly radio/system upgrades), I have not done many speakers/subwoofer modifications. I'm an engineer and have done a lot of work with electronics, so I think I can figure this thing out.

What is the thickness of the dynamat you used inside the box? Is that 0.067"?

Also, I measured the impedance of my sub and the resistance measured between 4 - 5 ohms. I have the 2015 Macan.

Assuming I need the 4-ohm version of the subwoofer you purchased? to make sure I'm not going to overload the amplifier? Is that a correct assumption?
This is the dynamat I used, and it worked really well. It looks like it's 80mil.

If you go with a dual voice coil sub, I would recommend a 2-Ohm model wired in series making it 4-Ohm. More info on the wiring options for DVC can be found here. Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Wiring Tutorial

PS - I bought a 2-pack of MDF extender rings, so I have one extra which you can have if you want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
@Draper,

Cool! Thanks a lot. Ordered.

Thank you very much for your offer on the MDF extender ring, I really appreciate it, but I don't want to bother/impose. I got one on Amazon for $7, so I should be fine.

I'll post some photos of the upgrade once is done next week.

Thanks again.


This is the dynamat I used, and it worked really well. It looks like it's 80mil.

If you go with a dual voice coil sub, I would recommend a 2-Ohm model wired in series making it 4-Ohm. More info on the wiring options for DVC can be found here. Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Wiring Tutorial

PS - I bought a 2-pack of MDF extender rings, so I have one extra which you can have if you want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
Very impressive. Out of all the posts here, I find yours very detailed and the one that provide information I would need to do the update myself. Thank you for the details.

I'm thinking about upgrading the sub from my Bose system, then take other steps to upgrade other speakers later. Although I have done some installations with audio (mostly radio/system upgrades), I have not done many speakers/subwoofer modifications. I'm an engineer and have done a lot of work with electronics, so I think I can figure this thing out.

What is the thickness of the dynamat you used inside the box? Is that 0.067"?

Also, I measured the impedance of my sub and the resistance measured between 4 - 5 ohms. I have the 2015 Macan.

Assuming I need the 4-ohm version of the subwoofer you purchased? to make sure I'm not going to overload the amplifier? Is that a correct assumption?

View attachment 231029
You may want to think twice about that. You are measuring coil resistance with a multi-meter that is accurate to +/- 1 ohm. You're not measuring coil impedance which is frequency dependent. The stock Bose subwoofers have a 2 ohm nominal impedance.

Ge0
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
696 Posts
You may want to think twice about that. You are measuring coil resistance with a multi-meter that is accurate to +/- 1 ohm. You're not measuring coil impedance which is frequency dependent. The stock Bose subwoofers have a 2 ohm nominal impedance.

Ge0
If you read the previous posts, it’s clear there is variance between the Bose sub in different model years.

The change may have happened around 2017 when the sub amp was relocated and integrated with the amp for the other channels. In earlier years, the sub amp was attached to the sub box itself.

While I agree you may not be getting a true and perfect measurement of actual ohms by using a voltmeter, you can get a relative measurement which allows you to make a decision about which replacement to get. As I mentioned in my post, the measurements for Bose and RF were 3.2 and 3.8, respectively.

I’ve had the RF sub installed for 6 mos wired as 4ohm and it sounds phenomenal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
You may want to think twice about that. You are measuring coil resistance with a multi-meter that is accurate to +/- 1 ohm. You're not measuring coil impedance which is frequency dependent. The stock Bose subwoofers have a 2 ohm nominal impedance.

Ge0
If that is the case, then there should be no issues wiring the sub in a 4-ohm configuration, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
If that is the case, then there should be no issues wiring the sub in a 4-ohm configuration, right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You'll be fine with 4 ohm. You just won't be able to deliver full power to the sub. In retrospect, Bose has the sub boosted too high. Cutting its output by 3dB may be a good thing.

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hello all,
I thought I would put in a few comments here on the speaker replacement route. I would agree that it seems the tweeter and sub seem to be the weak links in our audio. Here is the Bose correction that my Audio Control is finding for our system. Each horizontal axis line is 3dB.
231096

I have measured this and the correction appears to be accurate. For the tweeter, you can see there is a nasty drop in frequency at 5Khz and the audio control compensation for it. I am not sure if this is due to the speaker itself, but surmising that it might be a reflection off the windshield or a frequency/distance problem between the tweeter crossover response with the midrange. If you are to change out your tweeters- at a minimum, you will need to make sure the impedance is the same, the efficiency is the same and that it has the same range capabilities as the bose tweeter. If this plot is showing how poor the bose tweeter is itself, then if you put in something with a flatter response, it will not sound that great due to the bose correction. The Burmester swap out of the tweeters in the Bose system would make sense, but could be strained at bit based on crossover frequency of the Bose versus the Burmester, (a little general statement here) but typically the ribbon style tweeters need a higher crossover point as compared to a dome. I would think the burmester tweeter is likely crossed at a higher frequency than the Bose tweeter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
That big 5KHz suck out could be a few things. It could be a nasty resonance in the cheap plastic tweeter itself. Or, it could be a cancellation from the door mounted midranges playing in the same band as the 1st order lowpass tweeter. Given my recent experience I believe it to be a resonance. I replaced my Bose tweets with a set of ScanSpeak Revelators and do not hear this suck out. Unfortunately its been too **** cold here in Michigan the last week to actually go outside and make the measurement so I can't "show" what I am hearing.

Do you want to do another interesting experiment? Put the system into surround mode and make the same measurement. You'll see all kinds of craziness their too...

I wouldn't bother trying it with Linear on/off. All Linear does is attenuate bass and create less of a high frequency roll off.

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Yep it would be interesting, but my system does not have the center speaker any longer, so I am not sure it would help anyone as they would not be able to compare apples to apples.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
Yep it would be interesting, but my system does not have the center speaker any longer, so I am not sure it would help anyone as they would not be able to compare apples to apples.
Nothing to do with the center channel. I am talking about the interaction between the dash tweeters and door mounted midranges. But, I strongly feel this is irrelevant, The problem lies in the stock tweeter. Check it out.

Ge0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,616 Posts
RF Sub speaker going on 2 years here, all good.


2016 Macan T
I have had the same RF installed in my Macan GTS and also in my Ridgeline Black during the same time for 2+ years. The Ridgeline has a bigger sub box and it sounds phenomenal with the RF (small investment for huge benefit), where as the Macan with the tiny sub box sounded meh in comparison. The RF plays big in an appropriately sized box - the Macan sub box is just not big enough for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
I did the sub swap today with the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8" Dual 2-Ohm Punch Series Shallow Mount Car Subwoofer. I had an issue with the 8” MDF spacer I bought, although 8”, the outer diameter was too large (probably 8-5/8", and this needs an OD of 8-1/2" max). @Draper, I should’ve taken you up on your offer... oh well, it made for an interesting afternoon with the customization of the spacer. I do need to order another one that will fit better, but for now is fine. Wired at 4-ohm.

Sound is fantastic, much more definition than the Bose. Out of curiosity, I disconnected the center channel, as suggested by others here and OMG... even with the Bose tweeters sounds much better, hence it was left disconnected. The center channel seems to overpower other speakers and it sounds bad.

I ordered the Burm tweeters and center channel. I’ll install next week, but I think I will leave the center disconnected and return the Burm center.

Added sound deadening mat to the back, sides and wherever I could inside the box (as @Draper suggested). Added some small quantities of polyfil in certain key areas:







Finished and ready to install:



Thank you @Draper. Your instructions were on point, and I appreciate that I didn’t have to do a lot of research because of what you did.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
221 - 240 of 625 Posts
Top