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That is odd.....power Amp is no longer on the sub box ?
Here’s my 2016 after the driver swap




2016 Macan T
What does your amp powering the front and rear channels look like by chance? I can only guess that Bose moved the sub channel into the main amp?


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No worries. I tested to make sure the sub was working. I traced the sub wires back to the main amp. So they must’ve put a new amp in the 2018 and also made Bose a standard option for the turbo. Or I am crazy.


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I left the rest of the system alone on my 2017 but did get these to replace that POS:

Description: AudioControl LC2i Channel Line Output Converter inc AccuBASS Processor , Item No.: LC2i

Description: Audison Prima APBX 10 AS Active Subwoofer Enclosure with Quick Power Release , Item No.: Audison APBX 10 AS

It is EXTREMELY punchy and a massive improvement and fits in the spare wheel well. You need the LC2i as its a 150 w input not line level - the amp gets them via fibre optic so you cant tap in...
 
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Hey guys tell me I’m not crazy here. Took out the sub box from my 2018 turbo and I have no amp on the sub enclosure. The sub says Bose on it, my door speaker grills say Bose on it. Am I missing something here? How is there not an amp connected to it like in @Draper pic?



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I’m wondering if the differences have anything to do with the system change in 2017? I thought that in 2017 when they changed the screen, they also changed some things, so the old 545 watt 9 channel and I think 11 speaker Bose was then 665 watts with a 14 channel amp, 14 speakers.
 

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Does anyone believe the only difference between the Bose and Burmester systems is the speakers?

Really?
That’s not the point of this thread never has been. From the onset the goal is to upgrade the Bose system period.
 
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Probably closer to a mid-range than a tweeter.

The Bose center is a paper cone. The Burm is a much nicer. View attachment 226408
Draper (or anyone who has done it), can you give me some advice on removing the center speaker grille (and clock)? I was looking at it yesterday and everything looks very tight. I'd really like to not scratch or put a dent in anything.
 

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Draper (or anyone who has done it), can you give me some advice on removing the center speaker grille (and clock)? I was looking at it yesterday and everything looks very tight. I'd really like to not scratch or put a dent in anything.
Basically you push back on the clock, then pry up using a trim tool.

This post may help.

 

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Thanks, missed that earlier on. Really wish I had the $$ to throw at this upgrade and do a full "Bosectomy". But $750 right off the bat for the PCM4.0 converter from NAV-TV is a big first step. Maybe down the road.

Some recent fooling around with the EQ settings in Spotify have brought back some mid-bass that Amar's nitwits don't seem to like. Maybe I'll do the sub after the tweets and see where that gets me. Has anyone scoped the feed to the Bose sub and see how high that will play? I'd give up some ultimate bottom end if I could get a different "sub" to play a little higher and not sound like crap.
 

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I left the rest of the system alone on my 2017 but did get these to replace that POS:

Description: AudioControl LC2i Channel Line Output Converter inc AccuBASS Processor , Item No.: LC2i

Description: Audison Prima APBX 10 AS Active Subwoofer Enclosure with Quick Power Release , Item No.: Audison APBX 10 AS

It is EXTREMELY punchy and a massive improvement and fits in the spare wheel well. You need the LC2i as its a 150 w input not line level - the amp gets them via fibre optic so you cant tap in...
Thank you for the AudioControl recommendation. I am going this route and removing the spare. Going with a full-size 10inch sub w/ a custom fiberglass box. Going for the stealthy look. Offloading the bass from the door woofers cleans up the SQ immensely. I just got the 4 burm tweeters and about to solder the caps on. This thread is a wealth of knowledge I’m utilizing to the fullest.


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Thank you for the AudioControl recommendation. I am going this route and removing the spare. Going with a full-size 10inch sub w/ a custom fiberglass box. Going for the stealthy look. Offloading the bass from the door woofers cleans up the SQ immensely. I just got the 4 burm tweeters and about to solder the caps on. This thread is a wealth of knowledge I’m utilizing to the fullest.


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Andrew, how are you going to low pass the door drivers?
 

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Andrew, how are you going to low pass the door drivers?
The speaker wire from the sub or rear speaker will need to be tapped and routed to the AudioControl LC2i. From there the LC2i will control the bass roll off where the threshold and level can be tuned to your liking.


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Hey guys, a lot of nice work and discussion in this thread, very informative as far as what's in the Macan and what's been done.
I do have one bone to pick though...I see speaker impedance being measured with a voltmeter. THAT'S NOT VALID. This is important. When you measure speaker impedance with a voltmeter, you are measuring its DC impedance (frequency = 0). But there's NO DC in an audio signal, so this is not what the amp sees. The speaker impedance is more complex, it's an approximation of the average impedance over the frequency response range of the speaker. The current is measured using a frequency sweep, and an impedance_vs_frequency plot is generated. The single impedance number you see that they label a speaker with (2/4/6/8 ohms) is an arbitrary average of what the plot shows. It's never the exact same for any 2 speakers (unless they're the same part number), and tends to be rounded to one of the 4 values I mentioned.
So if you're comparing things with a voltmeter, you're doing yourself a disservice, as things may not be as bad as they seem. So case in point, I see 2 ohm impedance being floated around. Usually, a car manufacturer will not use impedances this low - why? Because, as mentioned in the earlier threads, the lower impedance requires more current to drive, a lot more actually, and requires the amp(s) to be stable down to 2 ohms and below (remember that 2 ohms is only an average), AND requires much more attention to detail from the designer. All of this adds up to COST, and Bose (especially) was trying to minimize cost of everything and make a whole bunch of tradeoffs. This is also why you see paper speakers from Bose. 2 ohms either drives the cost of the amp way up, or they do an inadequate crappy job and the amp/speaker go into distortion half the time.

Parts Express (Dayton Audio) sells, at a reasonable price, an audio measurement unit that can measure actual speaker impedance. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dats-v3-computer-based-speaker-audio-component-test-system--390-807?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Im7o_TY5gIVyp6zCh30oAjEEAAYASAAEgJx6_D_BwE


A word about paper speaker cones: Some of the world's best speakers have had paper speaker cones. A paper cone has an excellent mass_to_strength ratio. The problem is using them in a car, where they tend to rot earlier or separate from the surround. Paper, if used correctly, is not an impediment to sound quality, but is to longevity in a high-humidity/heat environment of a car. That said, you can get more unwanted harmonics generated by a paper speaker if it's not made stiff enough, as the paper flexes from center hub to outer rim.
 

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So case in point, I see 2 ohm impedance being floated around.
So, what is the correct impedance dual-coil woofer that we should be buying?
 

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OK all. Here is my main question after studying this entire thread. I've seen plenty of members swapping out the Bose 8" sub for an aftermarket sub like Teddis. This seems like a plausible option. I've also seen a lot of custom enclosures built to house sealed 8" or 10" subs with aftermarket amps. Again, pretty darn good.

However I read that Burmester managed to cram a 12" sub into the same package space and have a 300W amp on it. Yet, I searched the internet for 2 nights straight to see a picture of this solution and found nothing. Every result found was the Bose solution. The Burmester solution seems like something i want to pursue paired with a spare 1000W DSP enabled amp I already own. Does anyone have photos of the Macan Burmester subwoofer I can grab an idea from?

Ge0
 

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I used a Audison Prima APBX 10 AS Active Subwoofer which fits in where the old plastic sub was - ish. I used a AudioControl LC2i Channel Line Output Converter to feed it from the original sub high level input. Its very poppy though and I think i need to tap the rear speaker connections and try those as an input. I think they frigged the stock sub's input with excessive bass boost. It pops on BBC Radio 4 speech but is excellent on music.
 

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Can someone who has a set of front tweeters (the plastic domed version: Bose front or Burmester rear) please make a quick measurement for me? I want to know the tweeters diameter and height so I can determine if my aftermarket solution wilt fit without significant tweeter mount modification.
 
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