Stock tune from factory (f6 airfilter and bigger intercooler)
And a 600 hp turbo (not yet installed)
And a 600 hp turbo (not yet installed)
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It will last probably last close to stock in my kind of usage, since the engine will be much stronger than stock, at idle and normal driving, the engine will last much longer. The only increase in wear effect would be when driving hard. Here in daily traffic 90% of the time I'm not driving hard, only 10% is hard driving when on outside the city highway trips.Wow, that is a massive turbo. Will the car be reliable at that HP? Will it need forged internals or a transmission upgrade?
Why not just go purchase an already working car instead that provides this performance?It will last probably last close to stock in my kind of usage, since the engine will be much stronger than stock, at idle and normal driving, the engine will last much longer. The only increase in wear effect would be when driving hard. Here in daily traffic 90% of the time I'm not driving hard, only 10% is hard driving when on outside the city highway trips.
Even though 300 hp per liter is a lot, keeping max rpm stock, when the forged internals are rated higher and engine oil temp is kept on the low side, I think at the minimum it would last half as long as stock which is probably half of 200,000 miles.
If someone were to do 100% pure track or vmax mileage, stock ea888 (golf R) would probably last 40,000-50,000 miles and the 600 hp build would last 20,000-25,000 miles. A 9k revving 991 GT3 engine would probably have similar wear life but that's because that's a NA race engine on a roadcar, a 600 hp 2.0 tfsi is also considered a race engine.
Forged piston and rods, pins and bearing also the valve train upgrades. Forged head and main stud bolts. 5w50 mobil 1 and an oil cooler addition is a must have to keep engine oil temperatures below 100c. Spark plugs and ignition coils. Fuel injectors and high pressure fuel pump upgrade (the base low pressure fuel pump remains stock as it is the same as the 3.6L)
It won't need a new crankshaft and camshaft since stocks are already forged steel, a fluidampr pulley will reduce the increased vibrations in that area.
A 600 hp turbo will generally have around 700+nm on the 2.0 TSI, probably could reach 800nm with a turbo heatshield, blanket but I wouldn't have that since higher heat can wear the turbo's bearings. So the DL501 clutch pack upgrade is still needed at 700nm unless torque is tuned down. The driveshaft is strong enough since the 3.6L and turbo macans use the same part as the 2.0 2017+.
The higher models 2.9L can definitely reach 600 hp but it would still need TTE640 turbocharger, oil cooling upgrade, forged piston and forged connecting rods. That's simpler and would be longer lasting but it would still require modifications. But it's mainly the costs, upgrading the current car is a lot cheaper than switching to a 2.9L and also upgrading it.Why not just go purchase an already working car instead that provides this performance?
I got AP racing 8520's 6 pot on order, only fronts for now though with 410mm discs.Is this just an adventure? It will be a good one! But is there a goal in mind? I get the impression that this is going to be a daily driver? If that is correct I would be more concerned about the drivetrain, brakes and chassis set up.
The lightest of how the 2.0 drives with the power level stated would be awesome. Beware the transmission and the transfer case. It may be a ob5 dl501 that can mechanically handle the power but the Porsche software possibily not met what you need. I would definitely put a divorced transmission cooler on it and use different fluids than the Oem brand.
Following with great interest