[BMinSFL]

For wheels, a rotary polisher like the one you have will work well. You don't need a DA polisher nor can you use one with 1" backing plate and 3-4" extension that you want to use on wheels.

Try to find a 1" backing plate with an extension that will work with your polisher. Then a selection of pads. I like the pads that flare out to 1.5" inches for extra protection should you tap the backing plate against a perpendicular surface. You can then switch to a 3" pad for a final sweep once the 1" parts are done.

I have a cordless Milwaukee like the Ryobi one and it works great. When I bought my Macan, I used it on all the wheels and finer plastic parts on the rear tail lights and such to remove scratches. They also sell DA attachments for those drill type polishers. I found one that works with the Milwaukee thread and it works nicely with a 3" or even 5" backing plate.

There's a lot of finer polishes out there but my latest favorite is Rupes DA Fine. On a lighter pad, its gentle for a jeweled finish but also can cut on a heavier pad. Stick with foam pads to keep the polish at the least aggressive level. No need to go crazy on RPM, keep that fairly low to prevent heat buildup and let the pad and polish do its magic.

Most important to avoid unwanted damage if you are a beginner:

1. Keep the rpm low
2. Use lighter foam pads
3. Use a finer polish
4. Don't stay in the same spot for more than a second, keep it moving.
5. Beware not to hit anything with backing pad, that can mar a finish quickly.

 

[BMinSFL]

Thats why rotaries are not the best idea for a newbie. By taking these actions, the operator is doing what the tool should do.

It's very difficult to use a DA in a small area like a wheel spoke. A 1" pad on a rotary with an extension is a much better tool.

 

[BMinSFL]

What if I move the ryobi drill around randomly to mimic the DA?

No need to if you are moving with consistent passes. I recommend to watch some videos to get an idea of the cadence.

 

[BMinSFL]

Ok thanks - was trying to decide between these two products for the very light swirls on the rim - thanks.

Both will serve you well for this purpose. I used M205 for many years and that's what I switched from when I went with the Rupes DA Fine. I haven't tried that specific Menzerna but I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up on my garage and I'm sure I would like it.

 

[BMinSFL]

True, but the next step is the new person is going to use it on the paint. After all, its is called a "polisher".

Probably. I did the same 20 years ago when I first got into detailing, and I took off some paint down to the primer on my single stage red Volvo. At least it was very shiny primer and little did I know that decades later that would be the highly desirable chalk color!

It sucked at first but it also gave me the opportunity to practice and build skills with repainting that I still use to this day for chips or other small damage.

I didn't have YouTube or forums for guidance so I learned by doing. With the info out there today and even from this thread it's a lot more likely a beginner would have a better, safer experience.

 

[BMinSFL]

So the orange and blue are most aggressive and the white fluffy one is most soft I imagine here. n

For polishing, I typically use orange as my most aggressive and green then black are less aggressive. I would stay away from those cheap ones though and check out the Lake County or similar quality on Autogeek.com. The last thing you want is the pad to separate from the Velcro attachment while its spinning.

 

[BMinSFL]

Has anyone tried those Cap Cod polishing clothes they use for jewelry? Just curious.

Nope, those are designed for bare metal, not clear coat.