aw geez, another thing I loved about my previous Audi + BMW cars... dipstick tubes and topside filters. I've shown so many friends the "20 minute super-clear oil change where most of the 20 minutes is spent drinking a beverage" on those cars. I guess on the good side it'll force me to get under the car and inspect during each oil change?
Is a topside oil change possible in the Macan?
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You make it sound so easy.
Sometimes it takes two beverages or more.
ah, 2nd gen have the tube? dangit, my '15 definitely doesn't
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Would you happen to be abpole to provide where this is? Trying to see if its on my 19 S
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Macan S 2019-20 3.0L DIY Oil Change Parts & Capacity for pics.
The orange (not red) arrow is what you're after:
![Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive tire Auto part Gas]()
The orange (not red) arrow is what you're after:
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Huh, interesting. Even used my own picture from my thread to show me hahaha -- Do we think we can extract oil from there with an extractor? I somehow stripped my oil bolt so bad that even a local shop cant get it out (or at least doesn't want to attempt it) without a new oil pan on stand by just in case. Ordered the pan but wont be here for 3-6 weeks coming from Germany. So just trying to do an oil extraction if possible to swap the oil and then deal with the bolt and new filter once that comes in
Assuming you are not racing...
What kind of crap are you concerned about in the bottom of a crankcase? Small amounts of metallic debris is normal during engine break-in, then it should be smooth sailing after that for many many thousands of miles. If you have a concern about debris, a mechanic who really cares about the state of the engine will use a tool to cut open the filter and see exactly what it's catching. A decent quality working filter, replaced on schedule, will ensure that any harmful debris is removed from the oil before it gets into critical engine areas, regardless of what is in the crankcase. The best filters will hold more debris with less pressure drop across the element to ensure full flow to the oil pump. Seldom are modern engine filters clogged to the point of engine damage. The biggest reason to change filter and oil is to remove any waterborne deposits ("sludge"), acids formed by combustion, carbon, etc which promote corrosion and cause increased friction and wear at a microscopic level that you may not see by naked eye. But the engine in a daily driver is designed to work with some percentage of impurities in the oil at all times. Less than pristine oil in itself is not cause for alarm any more than a teenager's messy bedroom is a sign of his/her lifespan.
The purists who like to drain from the bottom plug will indeed get a percentage more complete drainage of dirty oil, but that difference in oil change quality is negligible over the next 10,000 miles that a quality synthetic motor oil will go before your next change. If you're worried about a topside suction device not cleaning out all the degraded oil, then change your oil at 8k mile intervals and don't worry about it.
Biggest tip: always, always use a Porsche approved fully synthetic oil. Avoid cheap filters and old dino juices that start breaking down as soon as they are running at modern engine temperatures.
What kind of crap are you concerned about in the bottom of a crankcase? Small amounts of metallic debris is normal during engine break-in, then it should be smooth sailing after that for many many thousands of miles. If you have a concern about debris, a mechanic who really cares about the state of the engine will use a tool to cut open the filter and see exactly what it's catching. A decent quality working filter, replaced on schedule, will ensure that any harmful debris is removed from the oil before it gets into critical engine areas, regardless of what is in the crankcase. The best filters will hold more debris with less pressure drop across the element to ensure full flow to the oil pump. Seldom are modern engine filters clogged to the point of engine damage. The biggest reason to change filter and oil is to remove any waterborne deposits ("sludge"), acids formed by combustion, carbon, etc which promote corrosion and cause increased friction and wear at a microscopic level that you may not see by naked eye. But the engine in a daily driver is designed to work with some percentage of impurities in the oil at all times. Less than pristine oil in itself is not cause for alarm any more than a teenager's messy bedroom is a sign of his/her lifespan.
The purists who like to drain from the bottom plug will indeed get a percentage more complete drainage of dirty oil, but that difference in oil change quality is negligible over the next 10,000 miles that a quality synthetic motor oil will go before your next change. If you're worried about a topside suction device not cleaning out all the degraded oil, then change your oil at 8k mile intervals and don't worry about it.
Biggest tip: always, always use a Porsche approved fully synthetic oil. Avoid cheap filters and old dino juices that start breaking down as soon as they are running at modern engine temperatures.
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Sorry - I didn't even notice. It was the first shot of the 3.0L engine I could find that showed the tube.
Ask your dealer about oil extractions. If you believe what you read on the Internet, that's all many of them do.
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