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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed the AMS Performance Intercoolers on my 2017 Macan S and loaded my Cobb Stage 2 Map - left the shop on Friday and got about half a mile down the street and noticed I was only getting 10psi max of boost compared to 15psi before install also after launching WOT a check engine light came on and I lost all boost pressure, vehicle then went into limp mode! (Reduced power, consult workshop, driving permitted) went back to the shop they weren’t sure and suggested a custom tune! I then turned car off check engine light disappeared. Started driving home same error message came up and lost all boost again problem still persists?
AMS basically suggest on website it’s a direct bolt on and Cobb tuning is suppose to support this application! I’m so stressed as to why this is happening any thoughts people?
 

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They’re air/air intercoolers and don’t need the stage 2 tune or any tune to run. Sounds like a leak...I would ask the shop to check their work.
 

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Yes, some of the connectors were not tightened enough and caused the boost leak.
 
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I can't see how changing the intercooler size would change the air/fuel ratio.....at least, not in a way the engine management system couldn't compensate for. I too would be looking for a leak.
 
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Improved inter coolers only improve doing a better job of cooling the charge period. You’ve got leaks causing the lack of boost. All clamps and connectors need to be double checked. If all connections are tight I would be looking at the inter coolers themselves. We’re they damaged at install which I would hope is not the case. Is there any physical damage to the coolers. Call AMS for their guidance.

BS on the inter coolers changing the air/fuel mixture only an adjustment/ tune to the ECU will Impact that . No boost=leak.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Improved inter coolers only improve doing a better job of cooling the charge period. You’ve got leaks causing the lack of boost. All clamps and connectors need to be double checked. If all connections are tight I would be looking at the inter coolers themselves. We’re they damaged at install which I would hope is not the case. Is there any physical damage to the coolers. Call AMS for their guidance.

BS on the inter coolers changing the air/fuel mixture only an adjustment/ tune to the ECU will Impact that . No boost=leak.
I’m almost certain there’s a boost leak due to like your said a clamp or connector issue!! I will ask them tomorrow morning about this morning! Thank you very much for your help
 

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+1 on checking the clamps.

Inspect the bypass valves for tear but otherwise good advise on retorque'ing the clamps. Check the codes before clearing them when you're back in the shop so you can compare any new codes before and after.
 

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...and after this shop has corrected their installation issue(s), give them the boot and find
another shop that will validate their work before turning the car back over to you and/or
stand behind their work and not try to BS you by fabricating some story to cover up their
sloppy workmanship.


Good luck!
 

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DO NOT change shops! You do that, and it atill doesn't work, you will get into a whizzing contest with shop A balming shop B and visa versa. Have them get on the phone with whomever you purchased the intercoolers from. Have both of them work together to correct this problem.

Again...don't change shops!
 

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Having just completed an AMS install a month ago, I agree with what Jon said. The left side in particular is difficult to get in as easily as the right side due to the location of aircon piping. Further, the factory uses 'snap couplings' where the intercooler hoses connect to the turbos and the left side turbo fitting is difficult to access easily. I ended up removing the left air cleaner assembly completely to get a good pull at the connector from the top. When inserting the new alloy adapters you need to be sure they are pushed fully in so they will lock into the snap coupler. Apart from that, there are four main hose clamps that needed to be tightened correctly when the silicon hoses are fitted to the intercoolers.

Other places to be careful are where the diverter valves mount to the face of the bottom tanks, the plastic right angle adapters are a push and twist fitting with a lock screw and providing the o rings are not damaged should seal. I did have an issue with the right hand diverter mount as the intercooler was not correctly finish machined (it was 0.2 mm too small and had no chamfer) but I corrected the error as it was too far to be sending it back ... The diverter valve hoses normally use squeeze clamps for sealing - I prefer screw type hose clamps and made a change when fitting the new Evoms Diverters.

When doing such an installation, it is well worth going over every hose connection three times before buttoning everything up and replacing the bumper - to be sure! By far the most common boost leak is the main large hose connecting the Y inlet pipe to the front of the engine just behind the radiator top edge, there is a chance that the newer free flowing intercoolers are just adding a little more boost than in the past (especially if you have a Cobb tune added too) and it has popped this large hose connection.

Looking forward to the Flat 6 video, after doing the job myself it will be nice to compare the 'joys'. :oops: ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
There are a few tight (not much room) clamps on that job, we'll have a video up soon. I believe we chatted on the phone, it certainly sounds like a boost leak.
Yes we did thanks Jon for your reply! I’m going in to the shop tomorrow for them to go over there work! If that doesn’t fix anything I’m going to get a smoke test to check for leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Having just completed an AMS install a month ago, I agree with what Jon said. The left side in particular is difficult to get in as easily as the right side due to the location of aircon piping. Further, the factory uses 'snap couplings' where the intercooler hoses connect to the turbos and the left side turbo fitting is difficult to access easily. I ended up removing the left air cleaner assembly completely to get a good pull at the connector from the top. When inserting the new alloy adapters you need to be sure they are pushed fully in so they will lock into the snap coupler. Apart from that, there are four main hose clamps that needed to be tightened correctly when the silicon hoses are fitted to the intercoolers.

Other places to be careful are where the diverter valves mount to the face of the bottom tanks, the plastic right angle adapters are a push and twist fitting with a lock screw and providing the o rings are not damaged should seal. I did have an issue with the right hand diverter mount as the intercooler was not correctly finish machined (it was 0.2 mm too small and had no chamfer) but I corrected the error as it was too far to be sending it back ... The diverter valve hoses normally use squeeze clamps for sealing - I prefer screw type hose clamps and made a change when fitting the new Evoms Diverters.

When doing such an installation, it is well worth going over every hose connection three times before buttoning everything up and replacing the bumper - to be sure! By far the most common boost leak is the main large hose connecting the Y inlet pipe to the front of the engine just behind the radiator top edge, there is a chance that the newer free flowing intercoolers are just adding a little more boost than in the past (especially if you have a Cobb tune added too) and it has popped this large hose connection.

Looking forward to the Flat 6 video, after doing the job myself it will be nice to compare the 'joys'. :oops: ;)
Thanks for your reply! That’s some valuable information from a fellow Aussie. I’m confident something is not tightened enough but I’m also running Turbosmart BOV which vent to atmosphere.... I never had a problem before with the stock intercoolers so I’m just wondering if that could be causing an issue at all? What I thought was to block the trumpet and have them recirculate and see if that my problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
DO NOT change shops! You do that, and it atill doesn't work, you will get into a whizzing contest with shop A balming shop B and visa versa. Have them get on the phone with whomever you purchased the intercoolers from. Have both of them work together to correct this problem.

Again...don't change shops!
Ofcourse!! I like this shop plus you always should give them a chance to fix the issue before moving somewhere else.
 

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That’s what I told them! There trying to tell me that I need a custom tune, because air/fuel ratio is out! I’m like I think you need to check your install cause I think a hose might not be properly tightened. I’m going to contact AMS tomorrow and see if they’ve ever incounted this problem
Just to put the shop's "a custom tune is needed" theory to rest, uninstall the COBB tune and reinstall the stock program. If the low boost pressure persists you should have your answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just to put the shop's "a custom tune is needed" theory to rest, uninstall the COBB tune and reinstall the stock program. If the low boost pressure persists you should have your answer.
what is the advantage of venting to atmosphere ?
I wanted to try something different after speaking to a number of tech’s they advised that venting to atmosphere is not gonna cause any problems and I really enjoy that sound of the BOV

I suppose some of the benefits are more efficiently and release of high pressure from the engine, but I ain’t no expert
 
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