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I’ve got a pair of Agency Power valves on the way I’m going to pair up with a Cobb stage 1.

Is anyone with a Turbo not running the yellow springs? Tuned or otherwise.

What’s the downside to running a too soft/stiff spring?
 

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Not exactly a lazy Sunday job. Just finished up in 3 hours. I took a break + had to repair the bumper trim.

*Big complaint was how the unit fell apart in my hand on install* Re-reading the instructions they say to check the tightness. I think they should come with the proper anaerobic gasket and tightness. So add that as a step prior to install.

I normally would not of swapped the diverters (my stock ones tested out fine on uninstall) but my bumper trim got whacked. I needed to take off the front bumper to cut the trim loops and remove the metal trim brackets from behind. ($40 part becomes very expensive w labor)

I recommend having an array of pliers of different shapes or that specific clamp removal mentioned earlier. I also found taking the upper fifth wheel-well bolt off to help with the tight clearance of the wheel-well "felt". Also on reinstall, do not tighten any of the many bolts until all of them are installed (wheel-well + lower bumper units)

A small flat screwdriver was used to massage all the hoses off without tearing. Then spray the parts with water for reinstall. I could not get the worm clamps to behave. Wish they had been higher quality units since I had to undo them completely and then fight them to go back together after installing the metal diverters.

My god. Had the second unit fallen apart in my hands instead of the first, I might of just walked away. (causing a redo of 1st) Glad I put on that gasket maker and went back inside to find zip ties for extra mental relief. Kind of scratching my head and hoping I got the yellow springs I asked for. My bag of parts is two worm clamps, one red spring and one silver spring.:confused:
 

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I have just purchased the flat6 valves, one of them had an issues before I mounted it, called them, and sent photo, owner answered my call and sent out replacement that day. Great service with good communications, will recommend again. The old valves could be pushed open with my finger, new flat6 could not push in, cant wait to test out, I will report on them shortly.
 

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I am no expert on these valves.....but the stock ones are made/calibrated to open at a certain pressure.....say it’s 15psi.

With what I am reading about these replacements they do not seem to be consistent in the “action” how can you be sure they are “paired” or similarly activated/calibrated ? I read one poster reduced the inner barrel on a valve ?

These DV valves are a safety measure for overboost correct ?
Thanks


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I will check it out.
I am Cobb BGB on a Turbo. Running very well.

In fact tonight I was purposely testing boost hold in 7th gear , 15lbs for a long time......I am curious how these may improve on that ?


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I can’t say I have experienced fluttering.....solid boost hold with steady throttle.

But you said you OEM are fine correct ?


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Yeah straight line acceleration or HWY entry: Cobb is perfect. Partial "unsure" throttle action seems to surge/flutter. OEM diverters tested just fine but did not know until today. I will report back if any changes having different spring rate diverter.


I would kick myself if the true fix would to be to swap back to an older diaphragm style 710N vs. the stock piston style 710P. Jumping to hypothesis of the reaction time of the diaphragm (710N) vs the reliability of the piston (710P + Agency power units). Higher spring rate on the piston could just be a workaround.
 

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Yeah straight line acceleration or HWY entry: Cobb is perfect. Partial "unsure" throttle action seems to surge/flutter. OEM diverters tested just fine but did not know until today. I will report back if any changes having different spring rate diverter.


I would kick myself if the true fix would to be to swap back to an older diaphragm style 710N vs. the stock piston style 710P. Jumping to hypothesis of the reaction time of the diaphragm (710N) vs the reliability of the piston (710P + Agency power units). Higher spring rate on the piston could just be a workaround.
Any update on how you like them?:D
 

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I just had the F6 Diverters installed over the holiday. Paired with the Racehip GTS black tune it's quite a difference.
The turbo whistle sound is equally up there now with the engine and and PSE exhaust going up the rpms. The power increase is also feels more solid and on command. I wasn't noticeable losing boost before like many here.

As for the installation...I could not for the life of me get the bumper off per the instructions F6 gave. Disconnecting those wired connecters responsible for lighting the bumper( behind the passenger wheel well) were near impossible no matter what technique I tried in that space even with the car lifted. Also one of the T27 screws was oxidized looking and instantly stripped with little pressure. Had me so frustrated. I ending up just taking it to my buddies European car shop and paid to have them install it. Anyway it definitely seems worth the upgrade now that it's done, was just hoping to do it all myself.
 

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I've been wanting to replace the flat black front grill with the gloss black version sold by Suncoast Porsche along with the side light covers also. This may give me a double reason to take it apart. I could always upgrade the H3 dual-xenon headlight bulbs while I'm in that far too. This is getting tempting.
 

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If this BOV doesn't increase the Whoosh sound why isn't the dump into the environment made for the macan's? just curious, I love that Whoosh sound and I think it would go great with the "sleeper" look of the Macan.
Turbosmart have been around for ages and make amazing BOV’s they have 2 types that work for the Macan, one that releases into the atmosphere and the other works like the OEM. I went for the atmosphere one duh!! which is adjustable so if you have any problems you can switch it to recycling, but you won’t!! Sounds amazing and holds boost so much better - model no: TS-0203-1022 check it out and let me know what your thoughts are.
 

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Has anyone installed the valves in the reverse orientation compared to stock?

From what I have read, diaphragm based valves (like APR) should be installed the way Porsche has the OEM valves positioned, with the pressure coming from the side. But piston style valves should have the pressure pushing directly into the spring.

I initially had the dealer install my AP valves, and they installed them in the factory orientation. But when switching over to the APR valves it seems my AP piston style valves should have been installed in the reverse orientation. Installing them in the original diaphragm based orientation makes them 100% reliant on vacuum pressure for opening, instead of having them able to open from high boost. This means unless you flip them around, it won't really matter what spring you are running as even 100 PSI of boost isn't going to force the valves to open (at least without them exploding first, like what happened here).

Thoughts?
 

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Seems the hoses are different sizes IIRC. Would be hard to install a different way.

Perhaps he had a stuck piston that wore down the side of the threads, then pop. Kind of strange that the area that should not see any boost would blow off. I would think the boost would be against the side of the diverter piston. Perhaps there was a flaw and allowed boost to build in that area?

It does make sense that the failure might not of happened with the boost pushing on the bottom of the piston. Then the boost could overcome the spring like you mentioned if the vac line has fallen off or got damaged/clogged.
 
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