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Great feedback. Do you wish you would have changed out to the Yellow springs?
Not yet. I purposely wanted to keep it not too aggressive to start. If you compare the spring resistance of the OEM valves vs the Flat6 with silver springs with your fingers, it is already a night and day difference.

When I say risk of flutter at >12PSI, it is probably like 1 in 20 hard pulls it might flutter.

On the flip side for comparison, I used to be able to hold >7PSI pressure on like only 1 in 10 hard pulls with the OEM valves; the other 9 would flutter and lose the boost. So I think being on the "safer" side for me was still the right choice. It is consistent enough performance gain for me.

Perhaps OP or Jon can add any additional context on how much better the yellow springs hold.
 

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Very tempting....
Can this do any harm to an engine ? Or only add safety ?
Is the new valve holding boost longer than factory valve spec. ?


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Not yet. I purposely wanted to keep it not too aggressive to start. If you compare the spring resistance of the OEM valves vs the Flat6 with silver springs with your fingers, it is already a night and day difference.



When I say risk of flutter at >12PSI, it is probably like 1 in 20 hard pulls it might flutter.



On the flip side for comparison, I used to be able to hold >7PSI pressure on like only 1 in 10 hard pulls with the OEM valves; the other 9 would flutter and lose the boost. So I think being on the "safer" side for me was still the right choice. It is consistent enough performance gain for me.



Perhaps OP or Jon can add any additional context on how much better the yellow springs hold.


Looks like your oem diverters were broken. I can hold boost all the equal up to 20+psi with the Cobb tune. Only on partial throttle you will hear the diverters kick in during shifts and that is good to avoid compressor surge you want to vent the boost.
 

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Looks like your oem diverters were broken. I can hold boost all the equal up to 20+psi with the Cobb tune. Only on partial throttle you will hear the diverters kick in during shifts and that is good to avoid compressor surge you want to vent the boost.
I almost always roll the throttle when I want to push it, so maybe that is why the OE valves with Cobb tune never played too well with me? Once I get to mid-throttle point is where it would always begin to flutter the boost.

If I were to just floor it on the OE valves it would hold better, but that is just not how would want to drive off the line in the streets. I had a previous post somewhere of me ecu logging while straight flooring it and it would indeed hold up to 25 psi on OEs.

With the the upgraded valves, I am now able to roll the throttle while still holding boost all the way. Is that supposed to be bad thing, in terms of the surge you mention?


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Very tempting....
Can this do any harm to an engine ? Or only add safety ?
Is the new valve holding boost longer than factory valve spec. ?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I would think there is little to no benefit of upgrading the valves if you do not have an ECU tune. But I also do not have many miles on the factory tune to say for sure.

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Discussion Starter #26
Just wanted to bump this thread to give OP and [email protected] some feedback and support.

I already had the following two installed for about 6k miles:
Flat 6 High Flow Intake System
Flat 6 Stage 1+ Cobb Tune


Diverter Valves Installation Notes:
- The pictures and instructions from OP were spot on for all the necessary steps. It took me 2.5 hours to complete by myself. That included time setting up my QuickJacks and putting everything away.
- One part that OP kind of skimmed over, was actually the most difficult part for me -- disconnecting the two wire harnesses in the passenger side wheel well. My efforts were futile and frustrating trying to disconnect it from the back side. What I eventually did was safely slide out the front bumper just couple of inches. Once I did that, there was significantly more working room to reach the two harnesses from the FRONT, through the bumper's intercooler ducts.
- Another area of difficulty was trying to get the OEM hose clamps off with pliers. The OEM ears on both of mine were facing into the engine bay. Nearly impossible to grab with pliers. I thankfully already had a set of Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers (the kind on a cable), and it is an absolute must for this install IMO.
- I agree with OP that trying to do this without removing the bumper would be near impossible. That stuff is on tight and in very closed quarters.

Post Diverter Valves Upgrade Experience:
- I kept the pre-installed silver springs in the unit, did not swap to yellow like OP.
- The boost hold is SIGNIFICANTLY more stable. With the Stage 1+ tune and OEM valves, the turbo pressure would frequently "flutter" on anything >7PSI. With the Flat6 valves, I can now hold up to 12PSI all day long.
- Pressure of >12PSI has risk of the flutter, but much less frequent still.
- The "upshift bang" from the exhaust is always there now. I used to only get it when the OEM valves were able to hold without fluttering and I hit a high RPM upshift.

All in all, I absolutely love the upgrade and would recommend anyone with a Cobb Tune to definitely order and install a set. The feel and sounds after the upgrade make the car even more fun to drive.
Sorry I skimmed over those parts. It is much easier to undo the harness with another person helping. I also had the same issue with the clamps being put on that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I would think there is little to no benefit of upgrading the valves if you do not have an ECU tune. But I also do not have many miles on the factory tune to say for sure.

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I have a factory tune and I noticed a big difference.
 

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I almost always roll the throttle when I want to push it, so maybe that is why the OE valves with Cobb tune never played too well with me? Once I get to mid-throttle point is where it would always begin to flutter the boost.

If I were to just floor it on the OE valves it would hold better, but that is just not how would want to drive off the line in the streets. I had a previous post somewhere of me ecu logging while straight flooring it and it would indeed hold up to 25 psi on OEs.

With the the upgraded valves, I am now able to roll the throttle while still holding boost all the way. Is that supposed to be bad thing, in terms of the surge you mention?


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Holding while rolling on throttle should be fine but if it’s still holding while letting of the throttle then that’s bad.
 

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Seems normal. Even with a mondo bypass and Novi 2k system I could feather the throttle right at the limit where the spring is just-about-to-hold. Or push it slightly further and get the boost to build.


If the diverter is dumping boost unexpectedly (after starting to build) then could be damaged.


Side note: I ran that system in both atmospheric vent and diverter style. I found much more efficient to divert back to intake of the super/turbo. (each style had different sensor location and piping)
 

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I have a factory tune and I noticed a big difference.
Hbi_Evan, Diverter Valves only - no High flow filter or Cobb Access Port. This is your set up?
I'm about to install lower spoiler from Suncoast. Will have the bumper out. I was thinking to get this done and
get the Access Port later.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hbi_Evan, Diverter Valves only - no High flow filter or Cobb Access Port. This is your set up?
I'm about to install lower spoiler from Suncoast. Will have the bumper out. I was thinking to get this done and
get the Access Port later.
Thanks.
I have the high flow filters and that is all.
 

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I went with agency power ones. Yellow spring is 20+psi boost - that’s what I went with as I’ve seen 22psi. Amazing the difference.
 

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Great feedback. Do you wish you would have changed out to the Yellow springs?
Not yet. I purposely wanted to keep it not too aggressive to start. If you compare the spring resistance of the OEM valves vs the Flat6 with silver springs with your fingers, it is already a night and day difference.

When I say risk of flutter at >12PSI, it is probably like 1 in 20 hard pulls it might flutter.

On the flip side for comparison, I used to be able to hold >7PSI pressure on like only 1 in 10 hard pulls with the OEM valves; the other 9 would flutter and lose the boost. So I think being on the "safer" side for me was still the right choice. It is consistent enough performance gain for me.

Perhaps OP or Jon can add any additional context on how much better the yellow springs hold.
I was having the same exact problem in partial throttle roll-on boost - losing boost constantly. Not sure if the OEM diverters failed or what. Installed the flat6 with silver springs and it’s SOOOO much better - I can hold any psi with the gas peddle. If you are getting boost flutter - get some better diverters. I believe F6 are agency valves or sourced from same- they work fine. Sound is definitely enhanced as well. I’ll try to video it
 

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How accurate is the MFD Boost Gauge? I have a stock GTS and see 17+ PSI if I really push it. I upgraded the diverter valves on my modified e92 335 but shouldn't the factory diverter valves be good enough for stock PSI?
 

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Might be a dumb question but is there enough pressure stock to utilize these with the silver springs?


Ideally, looking to get these installed first then go to a Cobb tune.
 

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I'm new to this thread.

What Macan models are the posters above running?

Are people driving the Turbo model with stock intake having issues with the factory diverter valves?

What advantage(s) is/are these aftermarket valves offering?


Thx!


;)
 

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I received the flat 6 diverters but its so tight the yellow spring cannot close back the valve itself...
Edit: I used a sand paper 2500 grit and sand it by hand, re grease everthing and now it is working #1
 

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I received the flat 6 diverters but its so tight the yellow spring cannot close back the valve itself...
Edit: I used a sand paper 2500 grit and sand it by hand, re grease everthing and now it is working #1

Pics? Did they come with silver springs stock and you did the swap to yellow?
 

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That’s funny another forum member reported this as well. I have the agency power ones and no issue with them.
 

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hmm I don't have much to show, installation is coming soon

yeah I remember another member having to pay few hours just to have the diverter fixed.. but wasn't that hard, it just take time. The thing is, it need to be really precise but if it is a bit too wide, it doesn't travel well with the two o rings. too much friction... we are talking about few microns too big..
maybe their provider need to have a calibration of their equipment soon.. no idea
 

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