Hi Jim, I believe it was the faulty wire or radar frequencies of the camera sensor in my case. Just FYI, I was using this thread/discussion post for general guide but my camera was different(VIOFO). I switched to a different camera and used a new wire and haven't had the issue since then.
FitCamX -- OEM-Like Dash Cam w/ Clean, Easy Install
I have wanted a dash cam for some time, but I wasn't going to have an exposed wire running to my lighter or a long wire tucked into my trim running down to my fuse box. Then I found a DIY video (below) a fellow Macaneer posted about the $200 FitCamX and I was sold!
It looks just like OEM and gets juice from the cabin's horseshoe-light harness. I purchased and installed mine within 2 days. There is an option for a front + rear camera, but that requires much more tuck-and-stuff wiring than I care to do.
I hope this is helpful to those of you who are also sitting on the dashcam fence waiting for the right product like I was.
![Gas Personal protective equipment Shooting Machine Shotgun]()
![Hood Aircraft Automotive mirror Rear-view mirror Eyewear]()
It looks just like OEM and gets juice from the cabin's horseshoe-light harness. I purchased and installed mine within 2 days. There is an option for a front + rear camera, but that requires much more tuck-and-stuff wiring than I care to do.
I hope this is helpful to those of you who are also sitting on the dashcam fence waiting for the right product like I was.
81 - 100 of 164 Posts
In the old days you used to wrap a couple of magnets along the wire 
20
wingless’ Fitcamx Macan Front / Rear Camera Installation
The Fitcamx Model B 4K front / 1080P rear / 128GB camera w/ the optional fuse panel power cord has been ordered from China, received in a reasonable amount of time, then owner installed in my 2022 Macan.
The manufacturer is VERY responsive to inquiries. I had multiple questions and always received a prompt response. There were ZERO language communication issues.
This system was selected over other systems for several reasons. I wanted / needed a camera system that visually appeared to be integrated w/ the vehicle. My personal preference is that I do not like the visual appearance of those horizontal camera enclosures against the front windshield near the mirror. This camera system instead replaces the windshield mirror shroud w/ the camera shroud, so it is not obvious the vehicle has a windshield camera once installed. The rear camera is not integrated, sitting on the liftgate trim. For my installation the included trunnion mount was not used and the rear camera was attached to the liftgate trim w/ adhesive Velcro.
My installation has the optional fuse panel power cord for several reasons. I wanted the system to have a vehicle-off parking mode capability. The camera system includes a very cool short tee cable assembly, to tap camera power from the overhead center lamp assembly by inserting the tee cable between an existing connector, but the available power from that method times out, preventing parking mode function. I did not use that cool short tee cable assembly. When the optional fuse panel power cord is instead used, the camera system is capable of vehicle-off parking mode function.
The other potential benefit of the optional power cord is that some online users shared that removal of the overhead center lamp assembly was difficult, with some reporting broken clips. That potential difficulty is eliminated when using the optional power cord because the only windshield parts requiring removal w/ this method are: the windshield mirror clamshell shroud is retained by hidden clips, released by prying apart (replaced w/ the slightly larger Fitcamx camera shroud); the large low-profile windshield shroud between the mirror and the headliner, retained by pry off / push on hidden clips (shroud maybe for the rain sensor) and the driver’s side fuse panel cover (easy to pop off / on). The overhead center lamp assembly does NOT need to be removed when using the optional fuse panel power cord is used for the installation. FWIW I disconnected the cable for the windshield shroud illuminated indicator during the installation to permit having that panel out of the way instead of dangling.
For the front camera everything else is accomplished by tucking the wires into the trim. The camera kit even includes a cable tucking tool. (That included tool looked fine, but it was unused during my installation. I instead used my existing cable tucking tool kit.)
If the vehicle is getting just the front camera using the optional power cord, then the installation time will be VERY short and VERY easy, perfect for a novice skill level installer.
My system also has the rear camera. The VAST majority of the installation time was devoted to disassembling the rear hatch interior trim parts, plus snaking the camera cable through the lift gate cable boot, from the vehicle to the hatch. Those two time consuming actions make the rear camera installation difficult and IMO should only be attempted by an experienced installer.
These are the steps I used to remove the rear liftgate hatch parts. Twist the latch knob to open the narrow / wide hinged door and remove the two Torx head screws. Carefully pry off the two ell shaped red reflectors. Remove the covers from the bottom of the hand pockets and remove the four Torx head screws. Pry off the dual pushbutton switch and detach connector. Then the fun starts… The rear panel image show the locations for all the pry off / push on hidden retention clips. The clips retaining the large panel are a butt pain to remove. The large panel has a U-shaped cutout that fits into a trim channel on the liftgate latch.
Snaking the rear camera connector through the rear camera boot was VERY difficult. I found that a looong narrow wire tie was the only way to make the initial pass though that boot. I then use that wire tie to pull the front to rear cable connector through the boot into the rear liftgate hatch. When the connector reached the second 90° bend it was impossible to pull further, so I had to manually inch / stretch the rubber boot along the connector body until it made it to the hatch side. Grrr…
For some reason I thought the rear camera cable Dremel mouse hole in the hatch trim panel needed to be off center. It would have worked fine and looked better centered. Too late for me.
Some have reported possible interference to vehicle systems cause by the camera. When I installed the camera I ran the power cord to the driver’s fuse panel and the rear camera the opposite direction, to the passenger side to minimize possible interference by physically separating these two cables.
The front to rear camera cable was easy to snake through the vehicle by standard tucking and using flexible push rods.
There are several optical artifacts noticed from the installation. Even though I keep both sides of the windshield glass clean the front camera video has a faint reflection showing the upper dash panel vents and grating. IMO the video image is still terrific even though this reflection may be seen.
The rear camera image shows the rear glass horizontal wires. The image corners are rounded instead of square. IMO this rear image is still terrific.
This camera system includes a 128GB microSDHC memory card, plus a USB2.0 memory card holder to permit removing the memory card from the camera and inserting into the home computer for file access. In my case, on my Windows 10 Home computer, the memory card holder that was included w/ the kit did not function, so I instead just used one of my universal memory card holders. That permitted FULL PC computer access to all video and images created / stored by the camera. The camera creates four folders for stored video and images. One each for front and rear cameras, while driving and while parked.
The camera system permits smart phone access of live or stored video when in the vehicle. That access requires multiple phone setting changes plus downloading the manufacturer’s application. In my case to access the camera while in the vehicle I needed to toggle off Cellular Data, toggle off Bluetooth, then connect the smart phone directly to the camera using Wi-Fi, disconnecting the smart phone from the vehicle. All of this needs to be toggled back once done locally connecting the smart phone from the camera to permit normal / expected phone integration.
When the smart phone is connected to the camera it is possible to confirm / change the camera settings. These settings include: toggling cabin microphone recording on/off; selection of the image resolution from 12M to 2M; selection of the video resolution, either 3840x2160 or 2560x1440; selection of either 1 minute or 3 minute duration video clips; exposure compensation; time stamp watermark on/off; driving collision / locked video sensitivity; camera language; parked collision sensitivity; Wi-Fi name; Wi-Fi password and formatting SD card.
There are several features that don’t exist w/ this camera. It is not possible to remotely access the camera’s live or stored data. The camera video includes a date / time watermark, but nothing about GPS location, velocity or compass heading. This system is limited to just the two cameras. The system MUST be selected for front-only, or front / rear when ordering, because an existing camera cannot be changed, such as adding a rear camera when the system was ordered as front-only. A rear camera cannot be added to a system that was ordered as front-only because the front camera is different for those two configurations.
The optional fuse panel power cord has Mini fuse taps, but the vehicle was built w/ ATO fuses. The fuse panel permits careful installation of the Mini fuse taps into the fuse panel ATO fuses w/ successful / secure retention. These Mini fuse taps permit retaining usage of the existing magenta color fuse panel fuse retention clips. One thing I didn’t like is Porsche has a metal part covering the top of the column C magenta fuse retention clip, preventing removal of the top of just this right hand retention clip.
The optional fuse panel power cord electrical connection has three wires: ground; 12VDC unswitched and 12VDC switched w/ ignition. This is the first vehicle I have owned since I was a teen that didn’t also include me purchasing an OEM factory service manual, FSM. WRT to this camera installation the FSM is VERY useful for the electrical connection and frequently useful for interior disassembly / reassembly. A 2015-2016 FSM was located online (not the desired 2022 model year) that was determined to be very useful for this installation. That FSM wiring diagram permitted me to identify that existing unused fuse locations (unused on my vehicle) could / would be appropriate for the electrical power. I say “could” because that wiring diagram apparently uses a dashed line to physically separate on the wiring diagram page wires that are electrically connected in a single splice. I was unable to locate documentation of that wiring diagram convention.
To that end I wanted / needed to verify that my chosen electrical connections were correct and that my continuous 12VDC would not time out so I used a waaay cool fused cable assembly I already had on-hand and wired up yellow and red LED indicator lamps, connected to the fuse panel w/ the indicator lamps sitting on the dash. I confirmed that the 12VDC remained on after the vehicle remained locked for several hours, indicating to me this provides the required continuous power.
The driver’s side fuse panel has three columns of fuses, w/ column A being the left. The empty column A fuse #9 is used for the +12VDC switched red wire power. The empty column C fuse #3 is used for +12VDC continuous unswitched yellow wire power. There is a nearby threaded stud / nut that is used for ground. There is a nearby cavity that is used for tucking excess wire.
So far I don’t have camera video of vehicle operation at night. My nighttime driveway video leads me to conclude that night operation will be acceptable.
The video during payback permits great observation of important details, such as license plates. I’m still trying to figure out how to export a full resolution still frame image instead of just doing a PC video player screen grab, w/ big / fat / clunky / unusable pixels on the license plate numbers.
I have a high level of satisfaction w/ this camera system. The company does fast shipment from China. The company provides fast / effective / helpful communication. When placing the order the company requires an image showing the existing mirror shroud, likely to ensure the correct camera was selected prior to shipping. I don’t have any reservation recommending this system.
Front Camera Driving Image
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Rear Camera Driving Image
![]()
Camera Kit Parts
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![]()
![]()
Front Mirror Shroud - Before / After Camera Installation
![]()
![]()
Installing Front Camera
Mirror Shrouds
![]()
Windshield Shroud
![]()
![]()
Front Camera Buttons, Lamps and Reset Switch
![]()
Rear Camera Mounted
![]()
Rear Camera w/ Trunion Mount
![]()
Installing Rear Camera
Rear Hatch Parts
![]()
Rear Hatch Cover
![]()
Rear Camera Wire Cover Notch
![]()
Snaking Wire Through Boot Using Long / Narrow Wire Tie
![]()
Rear Camera Connector Secured Within Hatch
![]()
Snaking Rear Camera Wire - Front Door to Rear Door
![]()
Snaking Rear Camera Wire - Rear Door to Hatch
![]()
The Fitcamx Model B 4K front / 1080P rear / 128GB camera w/ the optional fuse panel power cord has been ordered from China, received in a reasonable amount of time, then owner installed in my 2022 Macan.
The manufacturer is VERY responsive to inquiries. I had multiple questions and always received a prompt response. There were ZERO language communication issues.
This system was selected over other systems for several reasons. I wanted / needed a camera system that visually appeared to be integrated w/ the vehicle. My personal preference is that I do not like the visual appearance of those horizontal camera enclosures against the front windshield near the mirror. This camera system instead replaces the windshield mirror shroud w/ the camera shroud, so it is not obvious the vehicle has a windshield camera once installed. The rear camera is not integrated, sitting on the liftgate trim. For my installation the included trunnion mount was not used and the rear camera was attached to the liftgate trim w/ adhesive Velcro.
My installation has the optional fuse panel power cord for several reasons. I wanted the system to have a vehicle-off parking mode capability. The camera system includes a very cool short tee cable assembly, to tap camera power from the overhead center lamp assembly by inserting the tee cable between an existing connector, but the available power from that method times out, preventing parking mode function. I did not use that cool short tee cable assembly. When the optional fuse panel power cord is instead used, the camera system is capable of vehicle-off parking mode function.
The other potential benefit of the optional power cord is that some online users shared that removal of the overhead center lamp assembly was difficult, with some reporting broken clips. That potential difficulty is eliminated when using the optional power cord because the only windshield parts requiring removal w/ this method are: the windshield mirror clamshell shroud is retained by hidden clips, released by prying apart (replaced w/ the slightly larger Fitcamx camera shroud); the large low-profile windshield shroud between the mirror and the headliner, retained by pry off / push on hidden clips (shroud maybe for the rain sensor) and the driver’s side fuse panel cover (easy to pop off / on). The overhead center lamp assembly does NOT need to be removed when using the optional fuse panel power cord is used for the installation. FWIW I disconnected the cable for the windshield shroud illuminated indicator during the installation to permit having that panel out of the way instead of dangling.
For the front camera everything else is accomplished by tucking the wires into the trim. The camera kit even includes a cable tucking tool. (That included tool looked fine, but it was unused during my installation. I instead used my existing cable tucking tool kit.)
If the vehicle is getting just the front camera using the optional power cord, then the installation time will be VERY short and VERY easy, perfect for a novice skill level installer.
My system also has the rear camera. The VAST majority of the installation time was devoted to disassembling the rear hatch interior trim parts, plus snaking the camera cable through the lift gate cable boot, from the vehicle to the hatch. Those two time consuming actions make the rear camera installation difficult and IMO should only be attempted by an experienced installer.
These are the steps I used to remove the rear liftgate hatch parts. Twist the latch knob to open the narrow / wide hinged door and remove the two Torx head screws. Carefully pry off the two ell shaped red reflectors. Remove the covers from the bottom of the hand pockets and remove the four Torx head screws. Pry off the dual pushbutton switch and detach connector. Then the fun starts… The rear panel image show the locations for all the pry off / push on hidden retention clips. The clips retaining the large panel are a butt pain to remove. The large panel has a U-shaped cutout that fits into a trim channel on the liftgate latch.
Snaking the rear camera connector through the rear camera boot was VERY difficult. I found that a looong narrow wire tie was the only way to make the initial pass though that boot. I then use that wire tie to pull the front to rear cable connector through the boot into the rear liftgate hatch. When the connector reached the second 90° bend it was impossible to pull further, so I had to manually inch / stretch the rubber boot along the connector body until it made it to the hatch side. Grrr…
For some reason I thought the rear camera cable Dremel mouse hole in the hatch trim panel needed to be off center. It would have worked fine and looked better centered. Too late for me.
Some have reported possible interference to vehicle systems cause by the camera. When I installed the camera I ran the power cord to the driver’s fuse panel and the rear camera the opposite direction, to the passenger side to minimize possible interference by physically separating these two cables.
The front to rear camera cable was easy to snake through the vehicle by standard tucking and using flexible push rods.
There are several optical artifacts noticed from the installation. Even though I keep both sides of the windshield glass clean the front camera video has a faint reflection showing the upper dash panel vents and grating. IMO the video image is still terrific even though this reflection may be seen.
The rear camera image shows the rear glass horizontal wires. The image corners are rounded instead of square. IMO this rear image is still terrific.
This camera system includes a 128GB microSDHC memory card, plus a USB2.0 memory card holder to permit removing the memory card from the camera and inserting into the home computer for file access. In my case, on my Windows 10 Home computer, the memory card holder that was included w/ the kit did not function, so I instead just used one of my universal memory card holders. That permitted FULL PC computer access to all video and images created / stored by the camera. The camera creates four folders for stored video and images. One each for front and rear cameras, while driving and while parked.
The camera system permits smart phone access of live or stored video when in the vehicle. That access requires multiple phone setting changes plus downloading the manufacturer’s application. In my case to access the camera while in the vehicle I needed to toggle off Cellular Data, toggle off Bluetooth, then connect the smart phone directly to the camera using Wi-Fi, disconnecting the smart phone from the vehicle. All of this needs to be toggled back once done locally connecting the smart phone from the camera to permit normal / expected phone integration.
When the smart phone is connected to the camera it is possible to confirm / change the camera settings. These settings include: toggling cabin microphone recording on/off; selection of the image resolution from 12M to 2M; selection of the video resolution, either 3840x2160 or 2560x1440; selection of either 1 minute or 3 minute duration video clips; exposure compensation; time stamp watermark on/off; driving collision / locked video sensitivity; camera language; parked collision sensitivity; Wi-Fi name; Wi-Fi password and formatting SD card.
There are several features that don’t exist w/ this camera. It is not possible to remotely access the camera’s live or stored data. The camera video includes a date / time watermark, but nothing about GPS location, velocity or compass heading. This system is limited to just the two cameras. The system MUST be selected for front-only, or front / rear when ordering, because an existing camera cannot be changed, such as adding a rear camera when the system was ordered as front-only. A rear camera cannot be added to a system that was ordered as front-only because the front camera is different for those two configurations.
The optional fuse panel power cord has Mini fuse taps, but the vehicle was built w/ ATO fuses. The fuse panel permits careful installation of the Mini fuse taps into the fuse panel ATO fuses w/ successful / secure retention. These Mini fuse taps permit retaining usage of the existing magenta color fuse panel fuse retention clips. One thing I didn’t like is Porsche has a metal part covering the top of the column C magenta fuse retention clip, preventing removal of the top of just this right hand retention clip.
The optional fuse panel power cord electrical connection has three wires: ground; 12VDC unswitched and 12VDC switched w/ ignition. This is the first vehicle I have owned since I was a teen that didn’t also include me purchasing an OEM factory service manual, FSM. WRT to this camera installation the FSM is VERY useful for the electrical connection and frequently useful for interior disassembly / reassembly. A 2015-2016 FSM was located online (not the desired 2022 model year) that was determined to be very useful for this installation. That FSM wiring diagram permitted me to identify that existing unused fuse locations (unused on my vehicle) could / would be appropriate for the electrical power. I say “could” because that wiring diagram apparently uses a dashed line to physically separate on the wiring diagram page wires that are electrically connected in a single splice. I was unable to locate documentation of that wiring diagram convention.
To that end I wanted / needed to verify that my chosen electrical connections were correct and that my continuous 12VDC would not time out so I used a waaay cool fused cable assembly I already had on-hand and wired up yellow and red LED indicator lamps, connected to the fuse panel w/ the indicator lamps sitting on the dash. I confirmed that the 12VDC remained on after the vehicle remained locked for several hours, indicating to me this provides the required continuous power.
The driver’s side fuse panel has three columns of fuses, w/ column A being the left. The empty column A fuse #9 is used for the +12VDC switched red wire power. The empty column C fuse #3 is used for +12VDC continuous unswitched yellow wire power. There is a nearby threaded stud / nut that is used for ground. There is a nearby cavity that is used for tucking excess wire.
So far I don’t have camera video of vehicle operation at night. My nighttime driveway video leads me to conclude that night operation will be acceptable.
The video during payback permits great observation of important details, such as license plates. I’m still trying to figure out how to export a full resolution still frame image instead of just doing a PC video player screen grab, w/ big / fat / clunky / unusable pixels on the license plate numbers.
I have a high level of satisfaction w/ this camera system. The company does fast shipment from China. The company provides fast / effective / helpful communication. When placing the order the company requires an image showing the existing mirror shroud, likely to ensure the correct camera was selected prior to shipping. I don’t have any reservation recommending this system.
Front Camera Driving Image
Rear Camera Driving Image
Camera Kit Parts
Front Mirror Shroud - Before / After Camera Installation
Installing Front Camera
Mirror Shrouds
Windshield Shroud
Front Camera Buttons, Lamps and Reset Switch
Rear Camera Mounted
Rear Camera w/ Trunion Mount
Installing Rear Camera
Rear Hatch Parts
Rear Hatch Cover
Rear Camera Wire Cover Notch
Snaking Wire Through Boot Using Long / Narrow Wire Tie
Rear Camera Connector Secured Within Hatch
Snaking Rear Camera Wire - Front Door to Rear Door
Snaking Rear Camera Wire - Rear Door to Hatch
Just figured out how to get high resolution still frame images exported from the video stream.The video during payback permits great observation of important details, such as license plates. I’m still trying to figure out how to export a full resolution still frame image instead of just doing a PC video player screen grab, w/ big / fat / clunky / unusable pixels on the license plate numbers.
Front Camera Driving Image
![]()
My computer has two versions of VLC. The default version is a quick viewer w/ right / left arrow keys that advance to the next / prior video streams. This is ideal for advancing back and forth through the 1 minute duration video streams.
There is also a full version of VLC Media Player, w/ lots of menu options. In the full version go to the Video / Take Snapshot drop down. A thumbnail image appears for a short time, then that image may be located in the default Pictures location. This full version apparently doesn't have the advance forward / back to next stream ability, so less useful for locating the correct stream.
The front camera snapshot creates a 3840 x 2160 image. The rear camera creates a 1920 x 1080 image.
These exported snapshot images retain the very usable resolution seen when playing the video, permitting stuff like reading the license plate.
When I was installing my rear camera, I couldn't make the camera stick to the plastic trim well because of the texture so I put mine on the glass. In order to do that, I had to flip the bracket because the way the bracket is attached from the vendor prevents in from tilting the cam up enough to have a clear, entire view out the glass. If you flip the bracket, it's just enough to have the rear view fill the video frame. If I really wanted to hide the cable completely I guess I could have cut a mouse hole and have the cable out straight back but I didn't want to make any physical changes.
Also, I noticed that your front cam is tilted (just like mine was, same angle). This is because the space between the plastic housing and the windshield is very small and cables don't have enough space to clear so they are pushing down one side of the cam body when going out of it. I put a piece of black plastic shim on the other side of where the cables are going out to even it out a bit and it's better but I feel like in order to fix it for good, I have to cut an opening for the cables (which one other member mentioned that he did and I said I didn't have to do that in my previous write up, before viewing the footage, but now I know why 😅) Btw, I am OCD like that so it may not bother you 😆
![Grille Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Bumper]()
Also, I noticed that your front cam is tilted (just like mine was, same angle). This is because the space between the plastic housing and the windshield is very small and cables don't have enough space to clear so they are pushing down one side of the cam body when going out of it. I put a piece of black plastic shim on the other side of where the cables are going out to even it out a bit and it's better but I feel like in order to fix it for good, I have to cut an opening for the cables (which one other member mentioned that he did and I said I didn't have to do that in my previous write up, before viewing the footage, but now I know why 😅) Btw, I am OCD like that so it may not bother you 😆
When I was cutting my rear liftgate trim for the cable, my initial modification was a concealed notch that turned out to be on the glass side, not on the hinge side. My installation needed the mouse hole on the hinge side, not the notch on the glass side.When I was installing my rear camera, I couldn't make the camera stick to the plastic trim well because of the texture so I put mine on the glass.
If I really wanted to hide the cable completely I guess I could have cut a mouse hole and have the cable out straight back but I didn't want to make any physical changes.
![]()
Your installation configuration might benefit from the concealed notch.
3
I'm a designer by trade so I immediately noticed the tilt but some may not. You can tell it by using anchors points in the still video image that should be symetrical but are not, in this case, where the hood/vent area meets the left/right side of the video frame. Also, the cars in front look tilted. Your rear cam looks just fine. I drew a couple of yellow lines to illustrate the difference between the front and rear cam.
81 - 100 of 164 Posts
