Below are some of the videos I used to guide the installation route to the rear. I did not remove the A pillar as the video shows as from what I read it is hard to put back. Tuck the wire inside the headliner throughout the run. I'll post pics later
FitCamX -- OEM-Like Dash Cam w/ Clean, Easy Install
I have wanted a dash cam for some time, but I wasn't going to have an exposed wire running to my lighter or a long wire tucked into my trim running down to my fuse box. Then I found a DIY video (below) a fellow Macaneer posted about the $200 FitCamX and I was sold!
It looks just like OEM and gets juice from the cabin's horseshoe-light harness. I purchased and installed mine within 2 days. There is an option for a front + rear camera, but that requires much more tuck-and-stuff wiring than I care to do.
I hope this is helpful to those of you who are also sitting on the dashcam fence waiting for the right product like I was.
![Gas Personal protective equipment Shooting Machine Shotgun]()
![Hood Aircraft Automotive mirror Rear-view mirror Eyewear]()
It looks just like OEM and gets juice from the cabin's horseshoe-light harness. I purchased and installed mine within 2 days. There is an option for a front + rear camera, but that requires much more tuck-and-stuff wiring than I care to do.
I hope this is helpful to those of you who are also sitting on the dashcam fence waiting for the right product like I was.
41 - 60 of 164 Posts
Below are some of the videos I used to guide the installation route to the rear. I did not remove the A pillar as the video shows as from what I read it is hard to put back. Tuck the wire inside the headliner throughout the run. I'll post pics later
Thanks for the videos.Below are some of the videos I used to guide the installation route to the rear. I did not remove the A pillar as the video shows as from what I read it is hard to put back. Tuck the wire inside the headliner throughout the run. I'll post pics later
How did you manage to get the cable over the B & C pillar without having a gap? B pillar is better but C pillar (photos below) shows a small gap when the cable's forced in. I feel like I want to remove the C-pillar to put the cable completely hidden but the C-pillar wouldn't budge when I try to pry it off (assuming it's fastned with clips, not screws).
I managed to route the cable to the hatch without it being seen at all after much swearing and cursingGot the front/rear Fitcamx and installed it myself. The process is fairly simple but the difficult part is removing trim as I was afraid to break clips. I did order extra clips for the overhead console but ended up not needing them. The camera mount (2 piece) had no cutout for the 2 wires to exit the mount. I spent probably 30+ minutes trying but finally gave up. So I ended up cutting two small notches on the camera mount to allow the wire to pass and for the two pieces of the mount to close correctly. Routing the wire to the rear was fairly straightforward - no trim removed. Once the wire is at the rear is where it gets tough. Fishing the wire through the rubber grommets required zip ties and duct tape. And then you have to fish the wire into the upper panel of the rear lid to get the the window. Just watch for the defroster wire as it is just soldered in place. I did not remove the trim completely. Just unclipped the side facing the window and was able to fish it through. If you dont care if the wire shows you could skip all the steps.
Looks better than the factory camera and quality seems good. Hope it lasts
Also,
- Can you take some pictures some pictures of the rear camera mounting position? I am debating whether to mount it on the glass or the plastic trim piece (not sure if it will stick).
- Did you do anything to the fabric roof liner to push it down to have enough space to work in the opening rubber grommet (roof side, not rear hatch side)?
- Does the plastic trim piece above the glass just pop out if you pull hard enough?
- How did you route the cable from inside the plastic trim piece to the camera? There doesn't seem to be enough gap between where the trim pieve and glass meet.
I just installed a dashcam and the A pillar trim went back into place without any problems. It gives a direct route to the fuse box on the side of the dash, so no visible wires at all.Below are some of the videos I used to guide the installation route to the rear. I did not remove the A pillar as the video shows as from what I read it is hard to put back. Tuck the wire inside the headliner throughout the run. I'll post pics later
Finished my install of front and rear cam. I also pulled the upper part of the A-pillar to put the cable behind the airbad as recommended for safety, which wasn't much difficult to do. Here are some of the notable findings:
- The dome light/control panel piece has 4 clips (L/R front and L/R rear). If you pop all of them out, there is a hinge in the back which will keep the part from dangling with only cables. Somewhat useful when routing wires as you don't have to hold the part up although I think the cables are strong enough to keep the part hanging without issues.
- I bent the right front clip when pulling the part like it said in the video that was provided by nynicks8. However, you can bend it back into the original shape. I took both front clips out and used the unbent one as a template to bend the right one back into shape (using a hammer to straighten it out first and plier to bend it back) and it worked just fine. If you want an easier route, buy the clips before doing the install. I didn't have extra clips.
- You can route the cables out of the Fitcamx housing into the dome light/control panel piece through space on top of the rear of the Fitcamx housing as there's enough gap. No need to drill holes or make a slot for this.
- When going around the A-pillar, pop out the small cap that says "Airbag" and use a star allen key to unscrew a screw that's hold the A-pillar on top. Then pull the top of the trim to pop the top portion out. You can then route the cable BEHIND the airbag and continue on.
- When going through the top part (between A and B, B and C pillar) make sure the cable is completely hidden above the fabric root liner, and don't just hide it under the rubber seal.
- Once you get to the back around the rear hatch, the cleanest install is to route the cable through the black rubber grommet that connects the top of the rear roof and the rear hatch. I chose the right side grommet. Use the zip tie method (gotta be a long one at least 12" or longer). Pull the fabric liner down enough from the back to have some room to push the zip tie into the bottom opening of the rubber grommet. Also, pop the rear top plastic trim on the rear hatch enough to see inside and work. There is a plastic clip in the center that snaps off when pulled toward you. Then there's another clip to the left and right, about 6-10" from the side/edge of the trim. In order to loosen the trim panel and pull it out a bit, you have to push the panel up (when the rear hatch is open, towards the glass) beccause there are hooks that need to be cleared before being pulled out a bit. Now, push the zip tie all the way through and you can see it come out from the other side of the black rubber grommet opening in the hatch through the gap you made by pulling the plastic trim out. Use duct tape to wrap the camera cable to the end of the zip tie in the bottom opening of the rubber grommet tightly and start pulling the zip tie from the top. You gotta pull and jerk HARD to get the cable with its thick plastic piece to go through the grommet. It seemed impossible to me initially but it did pass through to the other side after about 30 mins of agony. Then the rest is just tugging the cable enough to reach the camera location, hooking it up, hiding the rest of the cable and that's it.
- Lastly, if you have a VPN on your phone, the cam will not be recognized by the Fitcamx app so make sure it's off when connecting to the cam.
Thank you for such a wonderful guide/DIY.
Can you share what fuses you tapped into for the ACC and BATT? I used A3/Homelink for ACC and B7/Horn for BATT but facing issues with range of the remote( need to be very close to the car to unlock or lock it) and I'm wondering if it's the BATT causing the issue since the extra fuse I placed in there is 5 Amp instead of 10 Amp that was already there so perhaps less current flowing through the circuit?
Thanks
Can you share what fuses you tapped into for the ACC and BATT? I used A3/Homelink for ACC and B7/Horn for BATT but facing issues with range of the remote( need to be very close to the car to unlock or lock it) and I'm wondering if it's the BATT causing the issue since the extra fuse I placed in there is 5 Amp instead of 10 Amp that was already there so perhaps less current flowing through the circuit?
Thanks
Finished my install of front and rear cam. I also pulled the upper part of the A-pillar to put the cable behind the airbad as recommended for safety, which wasn't much difficult to do. Here are some of the notable findings:
- The dome light/control panel piece has 4 clips (L/R front and L/R rear). If you pop all of them out, there is a hinge in the back which will keep the part from dangling with only cables. Somewhat useful when routing wires as you don't have to hold the part up although I think the cables are strong enough to keep the part hanging without issues.
- I bent the right front clip when pulling the part like it said in the video that was provided by nynicks8. However, you can bend it back into the original shape. I took both front clips out and used the unbent one as a template to bend the right one back into shape (using a hammer to straighten it out first and plier to bend it back) and it worked just fine. If you want an easier route, buy the clips before doing the install. I didn't have extra clips.
- You can route the cables out of the Fitcamx housing into the dome light/control panel piece through space on top of the rear of the Fitcamx housing as there's enough gap. No need to drill holes or make a slot for this.
- When going around the A-pillar, pop out the small cap that says "Airbag" and use a star allen key to unscrew a screw that's hold the A-pillar on top. Then pull the top of the trim to pop the top portion out. You can then route the cable BEHIND the airbag and continue on.
- When going through the top part (between A and B, B and C pillar) make sure the cable is completely hidden above the fabric root liner, and don't just hide it under the rubber seal.
- Once you get to the back around the rear hatch, the cleanest install is to route the cable through the black rubber grommet that connects the top of the rear roof and the rear hatch. I chose the right side grommet. Use the zip tie method (gotta be a long one at least 12" or longer). Pull the fabric liner down enough from the back to have some room to push the zip tie into the bottom opening of the rubber grommet. Also, pop the rear top plastic trim on the rear hatch enough to see inside and work. There is a plastic clip in the center that snaps off when pulled toward you. Then there's another clip to the left and right, about 6-10" from the side/edge of the trim. In order to loosen the trim panel and pull it out a bit, you have to push the panel up (when the rear hatch is open, towards the glass) beccause there are hooks that need to be cleared before being pulled out a bit. Now, push the zip tie all the way through and you can see it come out from the other side of the black rubber grommet opening in the hatch through the gap you made by pulling the plastic trim out. Use duct tape to wrap the camera cable to the end of the zip tie in the bottom opening of the rubber grommet tightly and start pulling the zip tie from the top. You gotta pull and jerk HARD to get the cable with its thick plastic piece to go through the grommet. It seemed impossible to me initially but it did pass through to the other side after about 30 mins of agony. Then the rest is just tugging the cable enough to reach the camera location, hooking it up, hiding the rest of the cable and that's it.
- Lastly, if you have a VPN on your phone, the cam will not be recognized by the Fitcamx app so make sure it's off when connecting to the cam.
Welcome to the forum.... and I'm wondering if it's the BATT causing the issue since the extra fuse I placed in there is 5 Amp instead of 10 Amp that was already there so perhaps less current flowing through the circuit?
A 5A or a 10A fuse will either provide a path for voltage / current, from one leg to the other, or excess current will vaporize the internal conductor and prevent voltage / current from passing from one leg to the other.
An intact 5A fuse (not blown) will not throttle the output current from 10A to 5A.
That makes sense. Then I wonder what the issue is that is causing the remote range to be far shorter. I tried the other remote as well. Same issue. Perhaps I could use a different fuse to see if that helps.
Screenshot of the booklet fusebox page below. I did get the Porsche pre wiring but did not use tequipment.
![Font Paper Paper product Document Screenshot]()
Screenshot of the booklet fusebox page below. I did get the Porsche pre wiring but did not use tequipment.
What about restoring the original configuration, w/o the camera fuse taps, for a temporary test to see if the remote control range reverts back to normal?
What about restoring the original configuration, w/o the camera fuse taps, for a temporary test to see if the remote control range reverts back to normal?
I tried switching off the camera, and with that, the parking mode and left the fuse taps in place. It returned the range of the remote to pre-dashcam range so it does point towards the hard wiring draining the current or affecting the range.
You may competing RF interference between the cars antenna and the Cam.
You may competing RF interference between the cars antenna and the Cam.
This is an interesting thought. I turned off the wifi and the issue persists. My next step is to change fuse site and see if it goes away. If not perhaps the camera is not a good fit for the car.
I do have the front camera pre wiring from Porsche so might have to just go with that but unfortunately it's going to cost me almost 2000$.
To bad…….many following this potential camera solution. Good luck with new fuse location……although personally I don’t see how that would make a difference.
I'm afraid that I don't have the parking mode so I just used the adapter to power the cams from the dome light.Thank you for such a wonderful guide/DIY.
Can you share what fuses you tapped into for the ACC and BATT? I used A3/Homelink for ACC and B7/Horn for BATT but facing issues with range of the remote( need to be very close to the car to unlock or lock it) and I'm wondering if it's the BATT causing the issue since the extra fuse I placed in there is 5 Amp instead of 10 Amp that was already there so perhaps less current flowing through the circuit?
Thanks
Did you make sure that ACC doesn't get power and BATT gets power after your car's been turned off? If so, is your camera working fine in the parking mode as well as while driving? If yes then I would think the power tap is not the issue. It does sound like an interference issue though. Since the cam has a radio signal (wifi) I suspect that that may be what's causing the issue? It could be a defective unit. I suggest you reach out to Fitcamx and see if they have any suggestions. They seemed to be pretty responsive.
Another test you can do is to connect your cam using the supplied dome light adapter and see if you still have a problem with the remote. I have no problem with my setup so if your problem continues after using the dome light adapter then your unit is likely defective.
I got mine todayGot the front/rear Fitcamx and installed it myself. The process is fairly simple but the difficult part is removing trim as I was afraid to break clips. I did order extra clips for the overhead console but ended up not needing them. The camera mount (2 piece) had no cutout for the 2 wires to exit the mount. I spent probably 30+ minutes trying but finally gave up. So I ended up cutting two small notches on the camera mount to allow the wire to pass and for the two pieces of the mount to close correctly. Routing the wire to the rear was fairly straightforward - no trim removed. Once the wire is at the rear is where it gets tough. Fishing the wire through the rubber grommets required zip ties and duct tape. And then you have to fish the wire into the upper panel of the rear lid to get the the window. Just watch for the defroster wire as it is just soldered in place. I did not remove the trim completely. Just unclipped the side facing the window and was able to fish it through. If you dont care if the wire shows you could skip all the steps.
Looks better than the factory camera and quality seems good. Hope it lasts
is yours installed and working now ??
I got mine todayWelcome to the forum.
Assuming yours taps power from the overhead light. Mine is arriving from Hong Kong in about a week and I ordered the optional fuse panel cable, so I'm hoping to not need to remove the interior trim and overhead light, instead just use my trim tools to wedge gaps for tucking the cables.
Where did you place the rear camera? Assuming located looking out the rear hatch window. Can you provide rear camera installation images?
is yours installed and working now ??
Nope, still in the box for probably another week. Working on house projects currently.I got mine today
is yours installed and working now ??
I am trying to figure out if it is best to wire from the fuse box or the mirror location ??
My plan / hope is to avoid removing the overhead center lamp assembly, using my trim tools to pull and tuck to the side fuse panel.
Having camera ability while parked is one objective for my installation, requiring the side fuse panel installation, instead of the overhead center lamp short cable.
Then, same gap and tuck process to the rear hatch for the rear camera.
Having camera ability while parked is one objective for my installation, requiring the side fuse panel installation, instead of the overhead center lamp short cable.
Then, same gap and tuck process to the rear hatch for the rear camera.
Take lots of pictures please ...My plan / hope is to avoid removing the overhead center lamp assembly, using my trim tools to pull and tuck to the side fuse panel.
Having camera ability while parked is one objective for my installation, requiring the side fuse panel installation, instead of the overhead center lamp short cable.
Then, same gap and tuck process to the rear hatch for the rear camera.
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