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First I want to thank TripleZ for the write up and also everyone who has added comments. I changed my plugs today while watching the Cowboys get clobbered by the Patriots. With the write up and all the comments it felt like I had done this job before.
I purchased the Bosch 7432 from Rockauto.com for about $7.50 each.

The gearwrench spark plug socket seems like it’s made for this car. This with another short extension was perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014ZVSVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Below is a picture of the plugs that came out with 30,300 miles on them. I think they could easily go another 30K or more.

View attachment 227838
It seems every time I read this forum it costs me money. I had to go for the socket as it is so cool.
 

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Kudos to TripleZ for the write-up. With the Gearwrench socket and the great tips here, it was a veritable "piece of cake". At 28,000 miles, I saw very little erosion on the old plugs. I did use a small amount of Copper anti-seize on the threads, a little Dielectric grease on the tips of the coil packs and some talcum powder on the friction surfaces where the coil packs enter the spark plug recesses. I saw no need to remove the engine brace...Plenty of room to get to that plug.
 
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LMAO, same question for a 2018 base model. I see the coil packs but a photo or two would be nice. Instead of the iridium plugs, I’m using the Champion double platinum 7600 KEC4PYPBF1, but can’t find any video or photos to get me started.
 

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Hit 60K and worked another plug change. Kept same coil packs. Will change out at 90K, if they go that far. Wasn't a walk in the park, but got through with no errors. Again, thanks to original poster and all who added content. Addition of more torque info was very helpful.
 

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Just completed swapping the plugs at 62k and it was a breeze. I just went off OP's instructions but got the Gearwrench socket someone else had mentioned. Passenger side plugs were in great shape and drivers looking a bit more work as well as being slightly tighter.

All in all great write-up and really appreciate you guys.
 

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First spark plug change at 62k miles?
 

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@shorton335, thanks for the part numbers and links.

After watching below how-to video, I feel like an idiot for having paid the dealer $1,064 to have the spark plugs replaced...
 

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This thread is redundant - it contains much of the same information as found in the DIY thread.

OP: With 1683 posts you know to search. The subject of iridium vs. double platinum has been covered - repeatedly.


Merging with the 96 post DIY thread.
 

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Thanks for the great thread. I just changed the plugs myself at 60k miles. No problems except that I have a ticking noise when running. Not sure if it was there before and I didnt notice or if its new. Any suggestions? It could possibly be the ignition coil/plug boots but I wouldn't expect these to be toast after 60k

Update: It is just the sound of the electronic fuel injectors that i never really noticed before.
 

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Tool question for those who have personally done the spark plug change.

My tools & extensions in preparation for spark plug change:

3.8” size:

6” ⅝” spark plug socket swivel 6” (Gearwrench to fit Macan plugs)
6” straight extension
3” straight extension

So I can reach 15” with swivel for the plugs.

For Torx fasteners, anti-rotation link bolt that is attached to the valve cover, wiring loom & coils:

I can reach 9” + 2.5” with E-10 female Torx socket. Total 11.5”

I can reach 9” + 2” with T-45 male Torx Bit. Total 11”

I have T-25 Male torx bit but, not ⅜” size rather ¼” size but have adapter so can use with my ⅜” ratchet & extensions. Probably ~10” total reach with that T-25.

I have ⅜” Torque Wrench

Do I have sufficient tools?

I think I S/B OK for the plugs themselves, since I can use 9”, 12” or 15” total reach.

I wonder if I have enough reach for the Torx fasteners since I do NOT have wobble extensions & my straight reach is 11-11.5” depending on which Torx bit or E -10 socket I am using.

I’d hate to start & find out for the E-10 Torx fastener I really need 12” + a wobble to angle it a bit. Or or the T-25 I really need at least a 12” extension + a wobble to get a decent angle.

(FWIW I was unable to find a T-50, the set I bought to fit ⅜”, has T-45 & T-55. In the above posts some say T-45 & some T-50 as I recall)

Thanks!
 

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I think you should be fine. If I recall, the only one where a wobble might be beneficial is the rear drivers side BUT I don't think it was necessary. Also, I didn't have an E10 and just used a 10mm socket or something close to it.
 

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You should be fine, I managed to do mine pretty easily without having to remove the anti-rotation link, it just makes the back passenger side a little bit tighter but worth spending the time as those bolts are one time use if i remember correctly. Be very careful with the Torx bolt that holds the ignition coils in place as these can easily strip if you do not have Torx bit seated correctly (i.e straight).

One last thing that is easily overlooked is the fact that you have to remove both air intake filters to replace the plugs, do yourself a favor and just replace them both while you are there.
 

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Thanks for the replies!
I just ordered from Amazon a Goodwrench ⅜ “ drive 10” wobble extension to be sure.

I already planned to replace engine air filters. They are sitting next to my spark plugs waiting …
I’m @ 28K miles.
I do not buy into the time interval for plugs or air filters. Just mileage.
In this case 30K.
 

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Wow! So much misinformation!!

As noted above, you do not have to remove the torque brace.

You do not have to remove the intake air filters or their housings.

Wobble extensions make the job much "easier". I used them and was glad to have them.


Good luck!
 

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And you don't need to replace the engine air filters at 30k miles.
 

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I know the engine air filter s/b replaced @ 40K miles but since when I change the plugs @ 30K mi, it is easy to do the filters at the same time, I will do early anyway. They are relatively cheap.
 
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